Looking for Older Truck

dell30rb

dell30rb

Final Approach
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I'm interested in buying an older pickup truck. A 1/2 or 3/4 ton in decent shape (don't care about some dings and faded paint or minor maintenance problems). Budget is ~3k. I'm leaning toward 3/4 ton.

I'm looking for something thats 4x4, fuel injected, and a manual transmission. I would get a diesel if I could find one that's affordable, but i'm okay with a gasoline powered truck. I have a daily driver and would use this to hunt and pull a utility trailer around from time to time. Due to budget it looks like this is going to be a late 80's to mid 90's truck.

I haven't owned a truck before, just a bunch of jeeps. No brand loyalty really, i'm open to chevy, ford, dodge / whatever else. I figure some of you guys can help with what to look for!
 
dell30rb said:
I'm interested in buying an older pickup truck. A 1/2 or 3/4 ton in decent shape (don't care about some dings and faded paint or minor maintenance problems). Budget is ~3k. I'm leaning toward 3/4 ton.

I'm looking for something thats 4x4, fuel injected, and a manual transmission. I would get a diesel if I could find one that's affordable, but i'm okay with a gasoline powered truck. I have a daily driver and would use this to hunt and pull a utility trailer around from time to time. Due to budget it looks like this is going to be a late 80's to mid 90's truck.

I haven't owned a truck before, just a bunch of jeeps. No brand loyalty really, i'm open to chevy, ford, dodge / whatever else. I figure some of you guys can help with what to look for!
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The mid to late 80's F-350's are beasts and can pull and work anything. I have an E-350 of that time and the 460 is still a force. The build quality is solid as they have the C-6 and massive rear ends. Unfortunately you may find more carb'ed then injected.
 
LJS1993 said:
Unfortunately you may find more carb'ed then injected.
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What kind of fuel mileage did it get? I'm not too sure what to expect, I was figuring a gas + injected F250 around 14mpg highway.
 
Make sure the front end suspension, steering, and drivetrain are in good shape since those often wear out on any 4x4 and are not cheap to replace.

The injectors and injection pump on a diesel can be very costly to replace if they go out. On the other hand, diesels engines tend to last longer.

The front wheels will have either automatic or manual hubs to lock the front wheels to the axles or let them freewheel. You can readily tell, manual hubs will have a selector on them for "lock" or "free", automatic hubs will not. The disadvantage to automatic hubs is sometimes they can fail to lock and you loose your 4 wheel drive(most likely noticing for the first time when getting stuck), depending on the system some may have a delay between when you shift to 4x4 and when they lock. The disadvantage of manual hubs is you either have to stop and get out of your truck every time you want to use 4 wheel drive OR drive around with them engaged and deal with the poor economy, poor handling, and extra wear&tear on the differential.

If 4x4 capability is something you think you'll need a lot, look for a truck with either a limited slip or locking differential. A surprising number of people have no idea what this is or if their truck has it or not. Most trucks will have a sticker inside the door jam with a bunch of information, including an axle code which you can most likely look up on the internet. What these things do is pretty straightforward, if you've ever seen a car get stuck in the snow or mud and only one wheel spinning while the other sits still you were looking at something without limited slip or a locker. Limited slip reduces how much that can happen so the wheel normally not turning has to turn a little, it does this full time in all driving situations. A locking differential will have a control- mechanical or electronic that will lock the axles on both ends together and both wheels on that axle will turn at exactly the same rate when it is engaged. When not engaged, it acts like a normal differential.

Any full size truck will pull a typical utility trailer around without issue. Although a beefy 3/4 ton diesel towing a tiny trailer around always makes me giggle.... it's a tad excessive.

Speaking of which, 3/4 ton suspensions are a lot stiffer than 1/2 ton. If you don't need the payload or towing capacity and like a smooth ride, avoid them. Dodge has by far the roughest 3/4 ton suspension, Ford generally makes the smoothest.

Any of the big three from that era will have a decent to good engine and with a manual transmission you can't really go wrong IMO.

Getting into gross generalizations now...
Dodge tends to have a lot of electrical problems and unreliable automatic transmissions, but they also seem to hold up to abuse a little better.

Ford makes a pretty solid truck but they have quirks like the twin I-beam suspension system, dual fuel tank setup, iffy rear axle only ABS, etc. I have always owned Ford trucks and I'm happy with them- probably as much because I know more about them and know what to expect.

Every old Chevy truck I've been in has something broken in the interior, usually several somethings. Ignitions that will turn and start without a key, all kinds of failed switches, broken panels etc. But they were also usually running too..
 
dell30rb said:
What kind of fuel mileage did it get? I'm not too sure what to expect, I was figuring a gas + injected F250 around 14mpg highway.
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Well that is definitely the downside with my carb'ed E-350. Right now it's tuned very nicely with a rebuilt carb and I'm probably getting about twelve miles per gallon. However keep in mind that mine is a one ton extended cab van. But man the 460/C-6 combo is rock solid and for the price you mentioned it's right up your alley.
 
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This was my old 96 F-150 with probably close to 6000# of car and trailer behind it. Pulled fine without any issue. Truck was rated for something above 7000#. I also tow a utility trailer and believe me, you won't get close to your max towing capacity on any half-ton with one of those.

Had the 5.8l engine, 4-speed automatic E40D transmission, and 3.55 limited slip axles. I got 16-17MPG highway driving without towing.... towing it was probably 11-13. City driving it got close to 13.

The reason I traded it in 2 years ago was severe rust problems combined with a failing u-joint in the front axle that I just didn't want to deal with. Good truck, had it through the snow and mud. Towed car trailers, horse trailers, utility trailers... hauled all sorts of stuff.
 
If you can find a Dodge 2500 with a pre (1997?) Cummins diesel those are the most rock solid engines out there. The 24 valve engines are somewhat problematic and have short injection pump lives. The older 12 valve models will run forever, and the injection pumps don't go out.
 
My hunting rig is a 1988 Ford F250 4x4 with the 460 and an auto tranny. Waldo (my wife named it) gets 11mpg no matter how gently I drive it or what it's pulling. It goes where ever I point it and is pretty easy to work on if your are mechanically inclined.

Bill D.
 
txnightster said:
My hunting rig is a 1988 Ford F250 4x4 with the 460 and an auto tranny. Waldo (my wife named it) gets 11mpg no matter how gently I drive it or what it's pulling. It goes where ever I point it and is pretty easy to work on if your are mechanically inclined.

Bill D.
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That is what I love about those older Fords. They are nothing fancy but will pull forever, are extremely durable, and are fairly easy to work on yourself. They are not daily drivers or the lifted beauty queens you see today. They are working machines and meant for abuse.
 
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My background is a bunch of lifted jeeps with lockers and such. So I am very familiar with suspension work and if a truck needed it, I can replace bushings, springs, shocks, ball joints and stuff like that myself. I don't want to get into doing a bunch of engine, transmission or body work though.

I could get another jeep, but I don't have time to go four wheeling much anymore. I think a truck would be more practical, for hauling stuff around and towing trailers from time to time. I do need a 4x4 as it would see some use hunting.

I was thinking 3/4 ton because there seem to be several available in my price range, and if i'm buying a truck that i'm not going to be commuting in, why not get as much truck as possible? Also, tends to be more manual transmission trucks of the 3/4 ton variety.

I am somewhat familiar with the super expensive fuel pumps of the diesel trucks. I'm leaning toward a gas truck partially because of maintenance reasons. Mainly, there are no super expensive anythings on a gas truck, and I am more familiar with working on gasoline engines. Never owned a diesel (though I like them)
 


My wife says this is waldo's best angle. :wink2: It is a regular cab with a 9ft. flatbed. Not going to win any points for beauty.
 
dell30rb said:
My background is a bunch of lifted jeeps with lockers and such. So I am very familiar with suspension work and if a truck needed it, I can replace bushings, springs, shocks, ball joints and stuff like that myself. I don't want to get into doing a bunch of engine, transmission or body work though.

I could get another jeep, but I don't have time to go four wheeling much anymore. I think a truck would be more practical, for hauling stuff around and towing trailers from time to time. I do need a 4x4 as it would see some use hunting.

I was thinking 3/4 ton because there seem to be several available in my price range, and if i'm buying a truck that i'm not going to be commuting in, why not get as much truck as possible? Also, tends to be more manual transmission trucks of the 3/4 ton variety.

I am somewhat familiar with the super expensive fuel pumps of the diesel trucks. I'm leaning toward a gas truck partially because of maintenance reasons. Mainly, there are no super expensive anythings on a gas truck, and I am more familiar with working on gasoline engines. Never owned a diesel (though I like them)
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If you look at the Fords you will notice that the front axle is independent on the 150 and 250's. The 350's have a solid axle and if you plan to lift the truck it is much easier and will be more reliable in the long run.

The gas engines for the 80-97 include a straight 300 V6 which is loved by many, a 351 windsor and the 460. If you prefer a fuel injected engine they became available in 1987.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I rebuild this era trucks and jeeps to keep me away from the expensive airplanes when my hobby $$ is running low.

Bill D.
 
txnightster said:
If you look at the Fords you will notice that the front axle is independent on the 150 and 250's. The 350's have a solid axle and if you plan to lift the truck it is much easier and will be more reliable in the long run.

The gas engines for the 80-97 include a straight 300 V6 which is loved by many, a 351 windsor and the 460. If you prefer a fuel injected engine they became available in 1987.

Let me know if you have any other questions. I rebuild this era trucks and jeeps to keep me away from the expensive airplanes when my hobby $$ is running low.

Bill D.
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Thanks for the info. I do hate the I-beam axle. But i'm not seeing any 350's that haven't been turned into work trucks for sale in my price range. What years did the 250's have the independent suspension?
 
250's got the I beam from 87-97. Don't let it scare you too bad. I have done a dana60 swap on a 250 and it is very simple if you are up for it.

The 350's sit about an inch higher front and rear because of the solid axle front end with extra springs and a taller rear block with an extra spring.
 
I have a 1996 Chevy Suburban. Plenty of room INSIDE for hauling stuff and keeping it dry. It also has a hitch and can haul twice its weight. Gas runs about 12-15mph. 350ci, Auto 4x4.
I loved this truck so much my replacement is a 2005 Chevy Tahoe. Same story here but has a 308. It is a tad roomier than the 96.
Go Chevy!
 
If you have been driving Jeeps you might look a JEEP Comanche, my '89 is coming up on 290,000 miles, I also have a 96 F-150 with the Straight 6. These are both two wheel drives. The F150 has gotten 19MPG on the Hwy but I am usually towing with it were I get between 9 and 15 depending on what trailer I am towing. Do be aware some of these have pretty low rated towing capacities.

Brian
 
I've always owned 3/4-ton trucks and been happy with them. I've never liked driving 1/2-ton trucks (my wife's Avalanche is an exception, but I still liked my 3/4-ton Excursion better). I would buy a 1-ton if I found a better deal on one. Mileage is going to be bad if you get a big block. For $3k don't expect a diesel except in terrible condition. It's hard to find a manual transmission, so you'll probably end up with an auto. Or you can pay more.

Front suspension work on these trucks is a pain to do, but they will probably need it. Since you're in NC, probably not too bad for rust issues with local trucks.

Personally, I think Fords are the best all-around truck. I say this having owned a '97 GMC Sierra 2500 4x2 6.5L TD, '95 Suburban 2500 4x4 454, 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 4x2 Cummins 6-speed, 2000 Ford Excursion 4x4 V10, and now my wife's 2003 Avalanche 1500 4x4. So I've owned a bit of everything. The Chevys tend to feel lighter duty and had the most little stupid issues that I felt it shouldn't have. The Dodge was a great engine with a so-so truck. The Excursion was just an awesome truck. It almost never broke and was dead reliable. I bought it with 90k miles, sold it with 160k, and about the only thing I did on it other than basic maintenance was brakes. Only reason I sold it was because the Avalanche fit our needs better.
 
Sac Arrow said:
If you can find a Dodge 2500 with a pre (1997?) Cummins diesel those are the most rock solid engines out there. The 24 valve engines are somewhat problematic and have short injection pump lives. The older 12 valve models will run forever, and the injection pumps don't go out.
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I agree, we've got a "99" dodge 24 valve with 300k miles on it. Second injector pump. Pre 98 are pretty rare now, gear heads snapped them up. With a 6 pack of beer, a couple grand, and a Saturday you can turn the stock 240hp into black smoke pumping 500hp with minimum mods. Mine is pushing 300hp. :eek:
 
Geico266 said:
I agree, we've got a "99" dodge 24 valve with 300k miles on it. Second injector pump. Pre 98 are pretty rare now, gear heads snapped them up. With a 6 pack of beer, a couple grand, and a Saturday you can turn the stock 240hp into black smoke pumping 500hp with minimum mods. Mine is pushing 300hp. :eek:
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When I was in college, the guys from Cummins came to talk to us regularly.

They said every time they saw someone who modified their truck to pour out tons of black smoke, they just wanted to punch the guy. There's a tremendous amount of effort that goes into making them not smoke.
 
Geico266 said:
I agree, we've got a "99" dodge 24 valve with 300k miles on it. Second injector pump. Pre 98 are pretty rare now, gear heads snapped them up. With a 6 pack of beer, a couple grand, and a Saturday you can turn the stock 240hp into black smoke pumping 500hp with minimum mods. Mine is pushing 300hp. :eek:
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You can also get just about as much power out with half the black smoke most guys run but they like the smoke.

Funny the VW TDI people can double their HP and not really get any smoke. Can get black smoke too but most turn down the fuel to prevent that.
 
As for the truck if you really need 3/4 tom get one. A 1/2 will have a nicer ride.
I think for the price you really can go wrong/right with any brand. For that price they will all have some problems.
 
Sac Arrow said:
If you can find a Dodge 2500 with a pre (1997?) Cummins diesel those are the most rock solid engines out there. The 24 valve engines are somewhat problematic and have short injection pump lives. The older 12 valve models will run forever, and the injection pumps don't go out.
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Roger the last. The request activity for my salvage yard on the 12-valve Cummins is near nil. And when I do see wrecked trucks at the auctions (that are to severely damaged in body and structure to repair) they almost always have 250k or more in miles.
 
In my view unless this gentlemen is going to be using it regularly and beating it to death a decent cubed gas engine should suit him fine.
 
Here is an example of what I would look for:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F-250-...386ce1895&item=221304985749&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Why?

It has a 5.8 EFI good power with OK fuel mileage (WAY better than the 460). Simple to work on and cheap parts.

ZF 5-speed manual, nuff said.

Full float 10.5 Sterling with 35 spline shafts.

TTB Dana 50 Front with Warn factory hubs.

Borg Warner 1356 transfer case, very tough

I personally like at least an extended cab. For 3K you are out of crew cab range, but like my example you could find an extended cab.
 
Alexb2000 said:
Here is an example of what I would look for:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F-250-...386ce1895&item=221304985749&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Why?

It has a 5.8 EFI good power with OK fuel mileage (WAY better than the 460). Simple to work on and cheap parts.

ZF 5-speed manual, nuff said.

Full float 10.5 Sterling with 35 spline shafts.

TTB Dana 50 Front with Warn factory hubs.

Borg Warner 1356 transfer case, very tough

I personally like at least an extended cab. For 3K you are out of crew cab range, but like my example you could find an extended cab.
Click to expand...

You hit the nail on the head with that one. Yep, exactly what I want.
 
dell30rb said:
You hit the nail on the head with that one. Yep, exactly what I want.
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If you look at these old Fords be careful. They made a lot of light duty F250's in the 80's and 90's that were really just 1/2 tons with stiffer springs. Usually the F250 with a full float rear will have the drivetrain you want. The unicorn Fords of those years are the 4X4 f350's since they had the solid front high pinion reverse rotation king pin D60. Those are nearly impossible to find since people will buy them just for the front axle. I also like the 88's or newer because they have fuel injection. Also, I like the 5.8 over the 5.0, they get the same mileage and the 5.8 is a much better truck engine because of the increased torque.

One last note, these trucks ride like "S". Short leaf springs will beat you to death. The cheap easy way to solve this is to put in a set of 99 or newer, long springs. Sounds like you've done some 4by work so it should be a piece of cake.
 
Sac Arrow said:
If you can find a Dodge 2500 with a pre (1997?) Cummins diesel those are the most rock solid engines out there. The 24 valve engines are somewhat problematic and have short injection pump lives. The older 12 valve models will run forever, and the injection pumps don't go out.
Click to expand...

The injection pump fails because the lift pump fails. If you put a fuel pressure gauge or full computer upgrade on it that can monitor the lift pump, you can shut down prior to injector pump damage. There are upgrade lift pumps with fuel/air separators that will fix the problem permanently. AirDog makes a good one.

The only other thing to watch on the 24 valve is to keep up with the maintenance schedule for adjusting the valves. Mine was taken to Rocky Mtn Cummins for all that work by the previous owner which is nice. I don't trust the average Dpdge dealership to work on the Cummins.
 
You guys I thought the gent wanted a simple hauler/tow vehicle that wouldn't cost him much at all. Now people are mentioning 4WD's, crew cabs, lockers, etc.......
 
Alexb2000 said:
If you look at these old Fords be careful. They made a lot of light duty F250's in the 80's and 90's that were really just 1/2 tons with stiffer springs.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have seen those, and will avoid. For awhile I thought some dingbat was slapping an F250 badge on his F150.

You guys I thought the gent wanted a simple hauler/tow vehicle that wouldn't cost him much at all. Now people are mentioning 4WD's, crew cabs, lockers, etc.......
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I do want to get into details a bit.. needs to be 4x4, ext. cab would be nice. Its worth talking about the 4wd system but I don't really need lockers.

Something like this would work, but it might be an automatic. I e-mailed the guy. http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/4085652245.html
 
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dell30rb said:
Yeah, I have seen those, and will avoid. For awhile I thought some dingbat was slapping an F250 badge on his F150.



I do want to get into details a bit.. needs to be 4x4, ext. cab would be nice. Its worth talking about the 4wd system but I don't really need lockers.

Something like this would work, but it might be an automatic. I e-mailed the guy. http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/4085652245.html
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Ahhh I see. Well as for automatics I have seen a lot of good towing and work done with automatics transmissions. I wouldn't be too concerned unless it's more of a personal taste issue.
 
dell30rb said:
Yeah, I have seen those, and will avoid. For awhile I thought some dingbat was slapping an F250 badge on his F150.



I do want to get into details a bit.. needs to be 4x4, ext. cab would be nice. Its worth talking about the 4wd system but I don't really need lockers.

Something like this would work, but it might be an automatic. I e-mailed the guy. http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/4085652245.html
Click to expand...

If that one's legit, jump on it.
 
dell30rb said:
Yeah, I have seen those, and will avoid. For awhile I thought some dingbat was slapping an F250 badge on his F150.



I do want to get into details a bit.. needs to be 4x4, ext. cab would be nice. Its worth talking about the 4wd system but I don't really need lockers.

Something like this would work, but it might be an automatic. I e-mailed the guy. http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/4085652245.html
Click to expand...

Clean truck. Looks like a 2WD auto to me, but it's hard to tell. Why can't these people write an informative ad on craigslist and take a descent picture. Sheesh.
 
Sac Arrow said:
If you can find a Dodge 2500 with a pre (1997?) Cummins diesel those are the most rock solid engines out there. The 24 valve engines are somewhat problematic and have short injection pump lives. The older 12 valve models will run forever, and the injection pumps don't go out.
Click to expand...

'98.5 model year Dodge changed from 12V Cummins to 24V Cummins and all the associated changes with/for the common rail.
 
cowman said:
The I-beam is tough and awesome for off-road use.... and crap for basically everything but off-road use.
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I wouldn't go so far as to say it's crap, it just doesn't turn corners as smooth. If you're talking about a workhorse vehicle, why does that matter??
 
The pre-1997 Ford's had two seperate, but unequal F-250's, like Alex said the rear axle is the way to easily tell them apart. The "heavy duty" ones have the axle protruding through the rear wheel center, the light duty do not. In 1997 with the body style change the light duty F250 was basically an F150 truck with heavier brakes and axles, it has a 7 lug wheel vs 5 or 6 on the regular F150 and 8 on the F250. Since 1999, the heavy duty F-250's and up are referred to a Super Duty and they have a different body style from the F150. :D
Lot's of useless information! :D

Alexb2000 said:
If you look at these old Fords be careful. They made a lot of light duty F250's in the 80's and 90's that were really just 1/2 tons with stiffer springs. Usually the F250 with a full float rear will have the drivetrain you want. The unicorn Fords of those years are the 4X4 f350's since they had the solid front high pinion reverse rotation king pin D60. Those are nearly impossible to find since people will buy them just for the front axle. I also like the 88's or newer because they have fuel injection. Also, I like the 5.8 over the 5.0, they get the same mileage and the 5.8 is a much better truck engine because of the increased torque.

One last note, these trucks ride like "S". Short leaf springs will beat you to death. The cheap easy way to solve this is to put in a set of 99 or newer, long springs. Sounds like you've done some 4by work so it should be a piece of cake.
Click to expand...
 
cowman said:
The I-beam is tough and awesome for off-road use.... and crap for basically everything but off-road use.
Click to expand...

If we are talking about the TTB (twin traction beam) suspension. Give me a solid axle and leafs or control arms and coils. Or a more conventional independent front suspension setup.

The TTB combines the unsprung weight of a solid axle, with the weakness of IFS. Its weird and I don't really like it.

Thanks for the heads up on the pre 1997 F250's. I think a late 80's or early 90's F250 is what I am going to wind up with. Unfortunately these ads suck but i'll give you an idea of what i'm looking at. I should be ready to buy in about two weeks. Have two vehicles right now and in the process of selling one.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/4075761580.html

http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/cto/4117567441.html
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/4030466558.html
 
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