I'll put in a second for a nice engine monitor.....you really want to know all the CHTs temps, they could widely vary....and keep them under 380 degrees.....whether you run rich or lean. The Gamis are nice...but, may not be needed, but you won't know unless you can see "all" the cylinder temps.
Running cool cylinders is the key to cylinder life and reliability. Heat is an accelerator that will accelerate valve guide, seat, and ring wear. Keep those CHTs cool and your engine will be happy for a long time.
Also, with regards to the turbo.....max TIT is a continuous temp rating, meaning one can run at the temp all day long....but, if you are able to come off by 40-50 degrees....again, less heat.....is less engine stress.
The cool down period prior to shut down is another conscientious thing. Some folks will idle for 5 minutes, thinking this somehow cools the turbo further. The engine monitor will confirm....that this isn't so. My turbo is the coolest during the approach and landing....when the power is pulled back. Once on the ground it begins to "heat".....and if I sit longer.....it heats more. Watch your TITs on the ground and you'll see them go from 700 degrees.....into +900's as you sit. So, I do not subscribe to the sitting cool down period.......I shut down just like with any other engine....as soon as I can.
With regards to running LOP.....it's all good....and there is no magic....just stay away from peak EGT temps. On the rich side you'll want to be at least 100 deg rich....or on the lean side +30 deg lean from peak for each cylinder. If you are running more than 65-70% HP....you'll want more margin and additional leaning or enriching to protect your cylinders from heat due to detonation (an uncontrolled combustion event)
Oh....and avoid the APS Koolaid at all cost.
