Is this repair acceptable?

fiveoboy01

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Dirty B
I had a primer line fixed as mentioned in another thread. It broke off at the fitting at the cylinder head. I elected to have the entire line replaced, the one that goes around the rear of the crankcase to the #1 cylinder.

A new brass line was ran of the same size(1/8" I think) from the left to the right side of the crankcase... The fitting itself has an inch of brass tubing coming out of it that's the next size bigger, the long line was inserted into that tubing and they were soldered/brazed together.

I'm a bit suspicious of this repair, seems a little mickey-mouseish(it's like they didn't have the right size ferrule nut), but I'm not an A&P... what say you guys?
 
I had a primer line fixed as mentioned in another thread. It broke off at the fitting at the cylinder head. I elected to have the entire line replaced, the one that goes around the rear of the crankcase to the #1 cylinder.

A new brass line was ran of the same size(1/8" I think) from the left to the right side of the crankcase... The fitting itself has an inch of brass tubing coming out of it that's the next size bigger, the long line was inserted into that tubing and they were soldered/brazed together.

I'm a bit suspicious of this repair, seems a little mickey-mouseish(it's like they didn't have the right size ferrule nut), but I'm not an A&P... what say you guys?

:needpics:

Sounds like a jig rigged repair.. and NOT legal...:redface:
 
:needpics:

Sounds like a jig rigged repair.. and NOT legal...:redface:

It depends on how the fitting is done, it could be completely legal and airworthy.

What type of end is on the tubing? Agreed, needs pics to say anything.
 
I'll get a pic if I can sneak off on break. The fitting itself looks identical to what was in there. They didn't change the fitting in the head(pipe on one end, compression on the other), but the line coming out of the nut(and the hole in the nut itself) is larger and the smaller line slips inside it.

I can't say what's on the tubing end as I haven't taken it apart. I assume there's a brass ferrule there but if the line size has changed but not the fitting that is in the head, I don't see how it would seal correctly....
 
"silver soldering" a fitting like this is totally acceptable. The fitting is an AN800-2 for 1/8" copper line.
DSCK0227.JPG


sometimes compression fittings are used. But, this one is clogged.
jubatugu.jpg
 
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I'll get a pic if I can sneak off on break. The fitting itself looks identical to what was in there. They didn't change the fitting in the head(pipe on one end, compression on the other), but the line coming out of the nut(and the hole in the nut itself) is larger and the smaller line slips inside it.

I can't say what's on the tubing end as I haven't taken it apart. I assume there's a brass ferrule there but if the line size has changed but not the fitting that is in the head, I don't see how it would seal correctly....

Sounds like a proper silver solder joint. Works like plumbing in your house.
 
Aware of how it works, a fuel leak in the engine compartment is a bit more serious than a leaking water pipe though.

I don't have time to grab a pic tonight but as long as a solder joint is acceptable then I'm fine with that. I've have several bad A&P experiences in the first two months of ownership so at this point I don't trust anyone:(
 
I don't have time to grab a pic tonight but as long as a solder joint is acceptable then I'm fine with that.
Soldering on the fitting is the preferable way to do primer and fuel injection lines. Using a compression fitting (aka plumbing olive) is more likely to lead to cracking of the line.
 
The fitting itself isn't soldered. It's two different diameter brass tubes slip fit together and soldered about an inch away from the fitting nut. No idea if there's a compression fitting inside the nut or not but I'd assume it's that or the line is flared.
 
The fitting itself isn't soldered. It's two different diameter brass tubes slip fit together and soldered about an inch away from the fitting nut. No idea if there's a compression fitting inside the nut or not but I'd assume it's that or the line is flared.
Best to get a picture, it's sounding kinda funky.
 
Soldering on the fitting is the preferable way to do primer and fuel injection lines. Using a compression fitting (aka plumbing olive) is more likely to lead to cracking of the line.
It better not be lead solder, as in household plumbing solder....or it will come apart once the engine reaches about 350 deg F. It has to be "silver soldered"....that's a much hotter bond and will stand the heat of a cylinder.
 
It better not be lead solder, as in household plumbing solder....or it will come apart once the engine reaches about 350 deg F. It has to be "silver soldered"....that's a much hotter bond and will stand the heat of a cylinder.

A new line is about 6 bits from Lycoming
 
A new line is about 6 bits from Lycoming
If one has the solder and equipment....the fittings are $1.50 each. :D

I just repaired a 3/16" line (they are copper btw not brass)....and the assembly was a lil over $100 vs. a few dollars for the fitting.
 
When the replacement part is available, what authority did you use the make a replacement in the field?
It conforms with the TC....using methods and practices acceptable to the administrator. :goofy:

Good golly Tom....can ya tell which end was repaired? :yikes:

AN800-2.jpg
 

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It conforms with the TC....using methods and practices acceptable to the administrator. :goofy:

Good golly Tom....can ya tell which end was repaired? :yikes:

I really doubt that, simply because the ones I buy are not copper.
 
I really doubt that, simply because the ones I buy are not copper.
the line....or the fitting? The line "is" copper...the fitting is not.

BTW....some of them are stainless. :rolleyes:
 
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The one provided by Lycoming look exactly like fuel injection lines steel tube and swaged fittings.
Yup and those are stainless with "silver soldered" fittings. :rolleyes:...and yes, there are those with the small double flare too.

FP04102010A0002Z.jpg
FP04102010A0002Y.jpg
 
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