It's mindless, I have the equipment, and I enjoy it.
I wonder how much money is in it. I should check.
Rich
I wonder how much money is in it. I should check.
Rich
We have local folks the do airplane detailing, they charge quite a bit for it. Don't know if they make very much doing it or not, but they do some very nice work.
Brian
Looks great! I think detailing your own car is a labor of love, but doing someone else's...repeatedly...would be mind-numbing, even if the money is decent. My pet peeve? Dirty glass. Feels so much better driving a car with a super-clean, streak-free windshield.
What product are you using on the bumper plastic? I'm in the process of buying a car that's in Arizona, and typical of such vehicles, the black trim is a little bleached out from the sun. Bought a package of Forever Black, which contains some dye rather than being solely a protectant, and will give that a whirl.
I exusively use OPT, optimum polymer technologies... came from meg, never going back. Use the same on plane too and pretty impressed with the results.
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Around my area detailing goes upwards of over $200.
Another car-related business that I find fascinating is paintless dent removal. I'm always amazed watching those guys work. This guy is a magician, quite possibly the best at it I've ever watched. But they've all been good. It's a much steeper learning curve than detailing, however, and a much bigger initial investment for equipment. It also brings DMV into the picture because those guys are technically repair shops and have to be licensed.
The polymer coat that it leaves behind makes much slicker finish and it helps next time u wash. They have a spray wax or u can use something called wash n wax, it's a no rinse product, wash, dry and buff. Only pro retailers usr it, they are not much into advertising. I got hooked first time my detailed used it on my car, I also have a permanent polymer coat on my car, that's much harder than the clear coat and it's a breeze to clean. I clean my big black suv in less than 20 mins. YouTube have a bunch of videos. I will post some pics when I have a chanceWhat about it makes it better?
I happen to use Meguiars Black Wax because it was recommended to me by a local detailer and it works as well as anything else I've used. But I'm not married to any particular product.
Rich
These are after a recent ONR wash and wax, no spray wax or clay bar used, glasses washed with same wash n wax , I do use their opti-coat as drying agent. It's a sealant. I have another pic of the hood reflecting clouds, can't find it now![]()
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No one is going to pay that in upstate NY.Around my area detailing goes upwards of over $200.
I dunno...from the web page, it looks like the equipment is a couple of scrap sticks from the wood shop.Another car-related business that I find fascinating is paintless dent removal. I'm always amazed watching those guys work. This guy is a magician, quite possibly the best at it I've ever watched. But they've all been good. It's a much steeper learning curve than detailing, however, and a much bigger initial investment for equipment.
Yeah, like a buddy of mine said, "I wash my car once every three years whether it needs it or not."I took my current car to the car wash once.
As someone who washes my vehicles one a year whether they need it or not (but sometimes I get lazy and skip a year), more power to you if you love detailing. I just try to keep my vehicles reasonably clean by not getting them super dirty in the first place. Honestly it amazes me how filthy most cars are.
Looks very nice. You could make good money doing that.
In the winter I try to keep as much salt off the cars as I can, but that's hard to do if temps stay below freezing. The slush won't really freeze or melt, it just sort of sticks in the fenders, wheel wells, and rocker panels. I don't like hooking up the hose at home in weather like that, so I'll try to find a drive-through wash that can knock off as much road-gravy and salt as possible. Once the weather warms up I'll get out all the cleaning supplies and go at it.

I usually semi-detail the engine compartment and clean off the outsides nowadays whenever I have to work on them, just to keep the grime off of me. LOL.
If I'm working under the hood that is. If not, just the outside spray off. Hahaha.
Thing is going to be covered in dust the first trip down the driveway anyway...
I used to wonder why dad's cars always looked so freshly clean when he lived out here and came into town for stuff or to our in-town house.
I finally figured out that he was stopping at the hand washed car wash place in the first suburb and having them cleaned while he drank his coffee and then driving whatever he was driving that day around town for errands, clean, all day. And they were dirty once he got back home. LOL.
It's also why he kept his collectors edition Miata in our garage in town.![]()
Maybe not where you are, since they figure all you guys drive farm tractors and semi tractors with chains and stuff, but in town they do. The last couple winters have been pretty dry, so they have a good surplus of salt and any time there is a hint of ice in the forecast, they'll be out with the salt and spray trucks to pretreat for the ice that doesn't come after all.They salt the roads here?![]()
They salt the roads here?![]()
Or the magnesium supposedly doesn't do as much environmental damage as the sodium. Never mind the mag chloride does more harm to infrastructure and vehicles. Anyway the EPA got wound up over stockpile runoff as a violation of the clean water act years ago which is when all the stock piles got sheds.They use Magnesium Chloride here which is sticky and nasty and horrible and yeah, I DO get that stuff off of the cars at least once a week during snow season when they're using that crap.
At least a run through an automated car wash as a bare minimum but I prefer to wand it so I can get it off all the undercarriage bits.
White sticky corrosive film all over the cars after the snowstorms. Ugh.
I guess the stuff is cheaper to get from the Great Salt Lake than getting the other more common Chloride types from salt mines in Kansas. That or someone in CDOT has a brother in Utah. LOL.
Magnesium chloride = yeah, OK. I dunno what it is, so I guessed.Or the magnesium supposedly doesn't do as much environmental damage as the sodium. Never mind the mag chloride does more harm to infrastructure and vehicles. Anyway the EPA got wound up over stockpile runoff as a violation of the clean water act years ago which is when all the stock piles got sheds.
And for Mathew, if it is being sprayed I bet it's mag-chloride. I think all the pre-treat sprayers and bridge anti-ice systems are mag. And ya really don't want to follow a sprayer treating ice/snow in place since it gets really, really, really, really, really, really slick when that stuff hits the solid water.
This is a topic I could talk about in great detail...I wrote some fairly detailed posts in another detailing thread on here a while back. If you have not been over to the Autogeek forums I would highly recommend it. You will learn a lot about detailing. If you are going to make any sort of business out of detailing it is in your best interest to become as knowledgeable as you can about proper detailing technique. There are a lot of weekend detailers out there who have really poor practices. I also highly recommend buying a copy of Mike Phillip's book: http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-create-a-show-car-shine-book.html
There are a lot of misconceptions and misinformation surrounding detailing. It might sound ridiculous, but most folks don't know proper washing technique. I have seen it time and time again where folks put more swirl marks and scratches in their paint from their poor washing technique (trust me I have done paint correction on many of them). Most know little about modern day paint systems (or even single stage paint systems) and quite frankly, most could care less. Most don't know anything about paint correction (compound, polish, seal). None of this stuff is rocket science - it is pretty simple stuff, but again most folks don't care THAT much about keeping their paint in new condition.
Today's paint systems, comprised of a base paint followed by a clearcoat can be very scratch sensitive. Different car manufacturers have very different paint systems. And these paint systems can completely change year to year and sometimes batch to batch. German cars tend to have really hard clearcoats. They are easy to scratch and can be a pain in the ass to perform paint correction on (using a proper dual action polisher). Others have relatively soft clearcoats. They don't scratch as easy, but they may have more issues with marring. Single stage paints (used before the mid to early 80's - before modern clear coats were introduced) can be nicer and easier to work with any many ways. Most airplanes are single stage paint. I am sure many of you have seen an old Mustang, Corvette, etc with old oxidized paint - it looks chalky. In many cases that can be completely restored to a show car finish. It is quite amazing. See here for an example: https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html
Sadly you can't "restore" modern clearcoats. Once clear coat has failed you ain't fixing it. You have to respray the entire panel. The goal is to maintain your paint and prevent the degradation of clearcoat before this ever happens...Here are some examples of clearcoat failure: https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...-clearcoat-failure-photo-gallery-archive.html
I have been pretty involved with detailing as a hobby since I was in high school. I don't have nearly the time that I used to so I don't get to do a lot of detailing work anymore, but I still make sure to detail my truck and airplane on a semi regular basis. Reality is you would have a hell of a time trying to make a living by doing a simple bucket wash. You can, however, make a pretty good living by doing quality high end detailing. There are folks who pay WELL over $1000 for a show car detail. Detailers who cater to these types of jobs can do very well. I am not sure why, but there are a lot of really good high end detailers in the Northeast. Here is a really impressive high end detail on a GT3: https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...t3rs-neglected-museum-ready-oakes-detail.html
Another option is what I would call "middle end" detailing. Services ranging in the $200-$500 range. Many of these guys are mobile detailers with a detailing trailer to perform all services at your location. I imagine these guys can do pretty well if they have a good base of clientele.
I really try to avoid car washes as they tend to put swirls and scratches in your paint. Touchless car washes are your best bet if your really set on a car wash - if I am really in a pinch I will use one of these. Even then I try to avoid them. I get a real kick of out some of these folks who make a scene about their $20 car wash and how dissatisfied they are. LOL.
I'm not saying you couldn't make some side money doing a typical bucket wash. Reality is there are more people willing to spend $50 on a wash than there are a $200-$500 wash. Most are satisfied by that $50 wash and there is nothing wrong with that. Whether you can make much money doing it...I don't know. The best thing you could do as a detailer would be to educate your customers on paint, proper washing technique, etc.
I have a pretty decent Detailing "How-To" that I wrote up a few years ago on Word. If anyone is interested let me know and I can send you over a copy. It is a decent resource and quick guide to what I would consider is a "proper" detail. As always, if anyone has any questions about anything detail related let me know.
I dunno...from the web page, it looks like the equipment is a couple of scrap sticks from the wood shop.![]()
I'd appreciate a copy of that. Thanks.
Rich