Chip Sylverne
Final Approach
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2006
- Messages
- 5,895
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Quit with the negative waves, man.
Engine is not starting properly when cold. Here's what's been done:
"buzz box" has new contacts and capacitor. Coil tests within spec ( but barely) and box buzzes on the bench when 12v is put to it, installed when key is turned, and buzz tone changes indicating load as engine cranks.
Ignition switch has been disassembled, contacts cleaned and continuity tested good.
All wires from switch to box, from box to mag traced and continuity tested good, proper function and no shorts to ground. Buzz box gets full voltage when engine cranks.
Left mag inspected, retard points changed, connectors checked. Condensor changed. Advance points open at 25deg BTDC, retard points open at TDC. A short to ground was found through a paper insulator in the retard points connector housing, and that was fixed, allowing the retard points to function normally. ( I was convinced that would be the gremlin!)
Mag E- gaps are perfect, and engine timing is dead on. Once started mag drop is 50 rpm per side, and smooth as silk. The ends of the p- lead connectors are nice and clean. The copper connector for the switch lead in the mag could be shinier, but it's more than clean enough, and the buzz box indictates by the change in tone that the contact to the primary side of the mag coil is good.
And yet, the engine only kicks off when the key is released from the start to both position...this is driving me nuts. There is no kickback, and the engine spins nicely with the starter engaged.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
"buzz box" has new contacts and capacitor. Coil tests within spec ( but barely) and box buzzes on the bench when 12v is put to it, installed when key is turned, and buzz tone changes indicating load as engine cranks.
Ignition switch has been disassembled, contacts cleaned and continuity tested good.
All wires from switch to box, from box to mag traced and continuity tested good, proper function and no shorts to ground. Buzz box gets full voltage when engine cranks.
Left mag inspected, retard points changed, connectors checked. Condensor changed. Advance points open at 25deg BTDC, retard points open at TDC. A short to ground was found through a paper insulator in the retard points connector housing, and that was fixed, allowing the retard points to function normally. ( I was convinced that would be the gremlin!)
Mag E- gaps are perfect, and engine timing is dead on. Once started mag drop is 50 rpm per side, and smooth as silk. The ends of the p- lead connectors are nice and clean. The copper connector for the switch lead in the mag could be shinier, but it's more than clean enough, and the buzz box indictates by the change in tone that the contact to the primary side of the mag coil is good.
And yet, the engine only kicks off when the key is released from the start to both position...this is driving me nuts. There is no kickback, and the engine spins nicely with the starter engaged.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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