Equivalent automotive parts

Jim K

Final Approach
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I'm getting ready for my annual (in 4 months lol) and getting some parts together to save some time & money. The prop is coming off for the first time in 15 years, and the alternator belt is clearly ready for replacement. I found the part number and looked it up on aviall, and they have a picture of a Gates 9380 ($16.93 on Amazon) with the piper sticker (correct part #)on it. Out of stock. Skygeek offers it with 85 day lead time for $136.84.

My understanding is that for part 91, the A&P can make the determination that a part is equivalent, correct? If I was part 135 I'd have to have the 8130?
 
My understanding is that for part 91, the A&P can make the determination that a part is equivalent, correct?
Yes. And if your aircraft was produced prior to 1980 there is additional guidance in AC 23-27.
f I was part 135 I'd have to have the 8130?
It would depend on type 135 operation and how GMM/OpSpecs were written. Some 135 ops operate similar to Part 91 and some closer to Part 121.

FYI: an 8130 has specific requirements to be issued and cannot be issued by just anyone. Some vendors will actually charge extra for an 8130.
 
Is it only me, or does Skygeek offer commodity items at 10-20% more than nearly everyone else?
I was looking at their oil prices, higher than PSC, lower than ACS. I considered saving the shipping cost by picking it up as an excuse to fly somewhere but they're not open on weekends.
 
Is it only me, or does Skygeek offer commodity items at 10-20% more than nearly everyone else?
I've never bought anything from them, mainly because their logo p!$$€$ me off.

Spruce doesn't even offer it, I can only assume because everyone buys the automotive part. I did confirm today that the currently installed belt is in fact a Gates 9380.
 
There are so many parts on these pre-1980 planes that can be sourced for way less that are identical to what is now on there.
Someone should make up a list that we can all add to as we find suitable replacements.

I'll toss in two that I'm aware of for my 150...

The ground/bonding strap from the battery to the frame:
- $10.00 for a thicker auto version with identical 12" length and eyelet size holes to the one I have. Selling for $80.00 from Aircraft Spruce

The starter and/or master solenoid:
- $5.00 for a golf cart version, identical form and fit to what I have now and probably higher current capacity. $80-$100 from A.S.
 
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There are so many parts on these pre-1980 planes that can be sourced for way less that are identical to what is now on there.
Someone should make up a list that we can all add to as we find suitable replacements.

I'll toss in two that I'm aware of for my 150...

The ground/bonding strap from the battery to the frame:
- $10.00 for a thicker auto version with identical 12" length and eyelet size holes to the one I have. Selling for $80.00 from Aircraft Spruce

The starter and/or master solenoid:
- $5.00 for a golf cart version, identical form and fit to what I have now and probably higher current capacity. $80-$100 from A.S.

or the interior door handle from the late 60s-early 70s Cherokees that have a VW part number on the back...out of a contemporary Beetle.

or the window latch for a 69 C172...which is a 50s Chevy sedan wing mirror part...
 
My airplane has a crank down window with a handle from a 1940's car.
 
The interior rotating door handle, escutcheon, plastic washer, and tension spring for 1972 and earlier 182’s are from a 65 Ford Falcon.
 
Is it only me, or does Skygeek offer commodity items at 10-20% more than nearly everyone else?
And for some items such as bostick 11fs, ships old stock that’s almost at the use-by date. Wasn’t worth sending back, tossed it in the garbage. When I sent email complaining, no response.
 
I once knew an aircraft owner who remover the alternator from his 1970s vintage Piper, took it to an automotive alternator shop and had it rebuilt using genuine Delco (if memory serves) parts and then reinstalled it. Worked like a champ. But he somehow neglected to mention what it came off to the shop…
 
I work in the parts business and have for 40 years. Back in the golden era we would have people come in all the time wanting parts for their airplanes. My early bosses would never sell them anything if they mentioned that.
 
I don't like putting NAPA parts on my car, much less my airplane! The quality anymore seems like crap!
 
I helped someone replace an alternator last year in a 182. Got the replacement from an auto part store. Perfect match other than the cooling blades were in the opposite direction. Had a repair shop swap the cooling fans.

Other than the fan blades the looked identical.



Wayne
 
or the interior door handle from the late 60s-early 70s Cherokees that have a VW part number on the back...out of a contemporary Beetle.

or the window latch for a 69 C172...which is a 50s Chevy sedan wing mirror part...

Cherokee has the overhead trim handle from a Studebaker window crank. The rubber foot pads can be purchased from Harley Davidson.
 
or the interior door handle from the late 60s-early 70s Cherokees that have a VW part number on the back...out of a contemporary Beetle.
When I was instructing in Cherokee 140s in the early 1970s (one of them N95434, just 36 units up the assembly line from yours), I drove to work in my 1969 VW Beetle. Car and airplanes all had the same door handles.

The rear passenger door in my 1978 PA-32 has the same handle, as well.
 
I once knew an aircraft owner who remover the alternator from his 1970s vintage Piper, took it to an automotive alternator shop and had it rebuilt using genuine Delco (if memory serves) parts and then reinstalled it. Worked like a champ. But he somehow neglected to mention what it came off to the shop…

I had my trusty excellent starter/alternator guy rebuild my alternator and starter on my airboat with a O-320
 
I go the other way, and buy all my car parts from skygeek. I even STC’d my civic for 100LL. Drives great.
 
IMG_0431.JPG
lol
 
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I once knew an aircraft owner who remover the alternator from his 1970s vintage Piper, took it to an automotive alternator shop and had it rebuilt using genuine Delco (if memory serves) parts and then reinstalled it. Worked like a champ. But he somehow neglected to mention what it came off to the shop…


But Champs didn’t have alternators.
 
I once knew an aircraft owner who remover the alternator from his 1970s vintage Piper, took it to an automotive alternator shop and had it rebuilt using genuine Delco (if memory serves) parts and then reinstalled it. Worked like a champ. But he somehow neglected to mention what it came off to the shop…
I used the same procedure for some of the parts I used building my plane. If asked, it was either for a dune buggy or boat. NEVER an airplane. :D
 
The starter and/or master solenoid:
- $5.00 for a golf cart version, identical form and fit to what I have now and probably higher current capacity. $80-$100 from A.S.
The starter contactor is an intermittent-duty affair pretty much the same as an automotive contactor. But if you pay $5 for one you'll get what you paid for. The master contactor is different, no matter that it looks the same. Continuous-duty, and often has the coil internally connected to the battery input post. The external stud goes to the master switch, which grounds it. Not the same at all.
 
I used the same procedure for some of the parts I used building my plane. If asked, it was either for a dune buggy or boat. NEVER an airplane. :D

Just be honest and tell them it for an off road vehicle!
 
What’s sad is there are lawn mower belts of better quality than aviation belts.
 
What’s sad is there are lawn mower belts of better quality than aviation belts.
Cheap car tires are better than aircraft tires, too. Too bad they don't come in high-profile 6" versions.
 
“The parts falling off this aircraft are the finest quality certified aviation parts”
 
The starter contactor is an intermittent-duty affair pretty much the same as an automotive contactor. But if you pay $5 for one you'll get what you paid for. The master contactor is different, no matter that it looks the same. Continuous-duty, and often has the coil internally connected to the battery input post. The external stud goes to the master switch, which grounds it. Not the same at all.
The following are offered as examples only:
Intermittent: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/solenoidx610030.php
Continuous: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/solenoidx610028.php
 
I'm getting ready for my annual (in 4 months lol) and getting some parts together to save some time & money. The prop is coming off for the first time in 15 years, and the alternator belt is clearly ready for replacement. I found the part number and looked it up on aviall, and they have a picture of a Gates 9380 ($16.93 on Amazon) with the piper sticker (correct part #)on it. Out of stock. Skygeek offers it with 85 day lead time for $136.84.

My understanding is that for part 91, the A&P can make the determination that a part is equivalent, correct? If I was part 135 I'd have to have the 8130?

I am too cheap to put cheap parts on my plane. It will hurt the resale value and it is my butt in the seat when flying. I trust Spruce for correct fresh parts. Belts are one item that I would want fresh.

My thought to make your annual more affordable is spread the maintenance out through out the year. Replace stuff when it needs it and not wait until annual inspection . It could be just a inspection, which would be less money. Your AP/IA would like to see you more than once a year to make the annual a little easier on you and him.
 
In the case of the alternator belt, a Gates belt from a non aviation supplier and a Gates belt with the same part number, an aviation sticker, and a 700% markup are the same belt from the same factory, why waste money?

Now if it was a Chinese "equivalent" that's another matter entirely.
 
What’s sad is there are lawn mower belts of better quality than aviation belts.
So true ..... in the 1980's I had a small Toro riding mower that needed a new belt after years of hard use .... the belt was a green color and the dealer wanted $46.00 for a new one , which I thought was ridiculous so I went my local auto supply and got a regular black rubber belt for $7.00

It stretched 15% the first week which I took care of by adjusting the idler pulley ..... but then began to shred and fail by end of summer so I bought the Toro one which lasted another 10 years until the motor wore out.
 
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