Dual Sport M/C

Tom-D said:
Done, now the boots, gloves, jacket, and ??
Click to expand...
An armored jacket is a good idea. We have ones here on the cheap. And yes, leather gloves. I do a jacket, gloves and helmet at the minimum. I do add some sort of leggings if I'm doing a long distance.
 
steingar said:
An armored jacket is a good idea. We have ones here on the cheap. And yes, leather gloves. I do a jacket, gloves and helmet at the minimum. I do add some sort of leggings if I'm doing a long distance.
Click to expand...
What is a good brand name for riding wear?
Today I saw a full armored suit for $1000.00.I'm like, No!
 
Tom-D said:
What is a good brand name for riding wear?
Today I saw a full armored suit for $1000.00.I'm like, No!
Click to expand...
You don’t need a suit for street riding, nor do you need top of the line gear. Tourmaster, Fieldsheir, Dainese, and Alpinestars are all good names in gear, and there are plenty more. Check online, there are lots of good deals to be had. A good jacket should have dual density armor in the back, shoulders and forearm. Given your location in the Pacific Northwest you might consider a textile jacket, most are armored, tough and waterproof. They aren’t as protective as leather, but on your bike I doubt you’ll be hitting the speeds where it will matter.

The most important wisdom I can impart. Humans do not see what they don’t expect. No one expects motorcycles. Assume you are invisible to the majority of capers except for a small minority who will actively try to kill you. Ride safe.
 
CycleGear has some decent stuff.

While you probably don’t want to cheap out too much, the major divide if and when you take a tumble is between wearing gear and not wearing gear. The finer points of gear quality make a much smaller difference.

In the BMW world, there’s an acronym: ATGATT. All The Gear All The a Time. I do my best, but at least try to wear helmet, jacket, boots and gloves. Overpants usually go on for a day in the saddle.

Though not cheap, Aerostich makes and sells a good variety of riding gear. It’s not necessary to spend over $1,000 for a good suit, especially not for just puttering around campsites and the like, but a good suit can last you 10 years or more and is a good investment.

My 13-year-old 2-piece Aerostich Roadcrafter seen here:

6200502220_64c74513f3_z.jpg


http://www.aerostich.com/suits/two-...men-s-roadcrafter-classic-two-piece-suit.html

edited to add: make that about 20 years old for that particular suit. I have a newer one purchased in 2005, grey with blue ballistics. Here, on the TDub at Deal’s Gap:

37177671304_89507e0965_z.jpg


I still wear that older suit for trail riding.
 
Last edited:
I support ATGATT also. What's your body worth to you? (mine wouldn't be worth much to anyone else I'll tell ya... :p) I've had a few off's over the last 24 years of riding. Good gear is the difference! Thankfully I was always smart enough to wear a good helmet (Arai or Shoei are my choices) and gear. I've been down three times, one of them was my fault (freshly tarred & chipped road in PA). My first accident was in college, I was wearing a helmet, gloves, leather jacket, jeans and boots. I still have a scar on my knee and side from where my jeans gave up during the slide.
 
My Wonderfull wife informed me last evening that it has been 23 years since I've ridden in the street, So I've booked a basic rider course to get back in the saddle. I've put 6 miles riding around the neighborhood and yes I'm wobblely as hell.
 
Tom-D said:
My Wonderfull wife informed me last evening that it has been 23 years since I've ridden in the street, So I've booked a basic rider course to get back in the saddle. I've put 6 miles riding around the neighborhood and yes I'm wobblely as hell.
Click to expand...
An MSF course is a really good idea, good on you for taking one. You'll get better with time, I think. Truth be told I've not had a point since I started riding that I stopped, except for winters.
 
steingar said:
An MSF course is a really good idea, good on you for taking one. You'll get better with time, I think. Truth be told I've not had a point since I started riding that I stopped, except for winters.
Click to expand...
The last street legal M/C I had was a 1947 full dress FL Knuckle head. Bought it as junk in 1970, restored it, rode it until 1992 sold it to put a kid thru the UW.
 

Attachments

  • 47 Harley 006.jpg
    47 Harley 006.jpg
    26.5 KB · Views: 8
  • 47 harley 009.jpg
    47 harley 009.jpg
    62.7 KB · Views: 8
  • 47 Harley 008.jpg
    47 Harley 008.jpg
    27.9 KB · Views: 8
Tom-D said:
The last street legal M/C I had was a 1947 full dress FL Knuckle head. Bought it as junk in 1970, restored it, rode it until 1992 sold it to put a kid thru the UW.
Click to expand...
The Knucklehead was a gorgeous bike. You'll find the little enduro bike to be a lot easier to rider and probably more dependable as well (and easier to fix if it breaks). Do make certain to keep the chain lubed though.
 
Tom-D said:
With what?
Click to expand...

Any quality chain wax is OK.

I wipe mine down lightly with WD40 or equivalent first.

Again, you probably want to invest in an o-ring or x-ring chain at some point. Then, you just have to keep it somewhat clean and waxed - the o-rings or equivalent keep the grease where it matters, and all you’re really trying to do is keep it from rusting.

The jacket looks fine. I’d recommend going for the high visibility one. Same with a helmet.
 
Tom-D said:
My Wonderfull wife informed me last evening that it has been 23 years since I've ridden in the street, So I've booked a basic rider course to get back in the saddle. I've put 6 miles riding around the neighborhood and yes I'm wobblely as hell.
Click to expand...

I'd just dump it once intentionally, to get it over with. :eek:
 
Tom-D said:
With what?
Click to expand...
If you go to just about any motorcycle store they'll have lubricants specifically formulated for motorcycle chains. I used to have this fantastic lube made by Dow, best I'd ever seen. They of course don't make it anymore. I now use stuff called PJ, its got paraffin wax in it and really sticks to the chain. Here's a helpful youtube video from its makers:

You want to lube up the chain after every other fill up, at least that's what I do. Just a little bit in where the links slide against each other. Like the other fellow said, once or twice a season clean the chain off with WD 40 or petrol and reapply.
 
steingar said:
If you go to just about any motorcycle store they'll have lubricants specifically formulated for motorcycle chains. I used to have this fantastic lube made by Dow, best I'd ever seen. They of course don't make it anymore. I now use stuff called PJ, its got paraffin wax in it and really sticks to the chain. Here's a helpful youtube video from its makers:

You want to lube up the chain after every other fill up, at least that's what I do. Just a little bit in where the links slide against each other. Like the other fellow said, once or twice a season clean the chain off with WD 40 or petrol and reapply.
Click to expand...
Years ago, I'd remove the chains and wash with gas, then soak over night in 50 weight that was removed from the bike, Some times I'd heat until the oil smoked.
 
With modern o-ring chains, washing with gas or using any kind of penetrating oil is not recommended. They can penetrate past the o-rings, carrying dirt with them, and/or damage the o-rings.

The stock chain on the TDub is really cheap. It will “stretch” a lot, regardless of what you do. Cleaning with gas (if you’re careful!) and your overnight soak can’t hurt it. I used to do the same thing, but used kerosene rather than gas, and used heated gear oil. But thick oil also attracts dust and dirt, which is why waxes have generally displaced heavy oils for chain lube.
 
Last edited:
I used to race Honda Thumpers, 250 and 400.
They were as bulletproof as a bike could be.
 
I've put 14 miles on it, in and around my hood and a bit of highway, wobblyness is less apparent.
shifting is smoother, maintaining a constant turn needs work.
 
Have you checked your tire pressures?

I asked because my ride seemed very harsh as delivered. Both tires had over 30 psi in them.

Up to 198 lb load, the book only calls for 18 psi front and rear. Above that, 22 front, 25 rear.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top