Dakota Dual-Mag Overhaul: Kelly or Quality Aircraft?

DesertNomad

DesertNomad

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DesertNomad
I need my 500 mag overhaul (better than an inspection) for my Dakota

Any thoughts on Kelly vs Quality Aircraft Accessories?

Kelly is about $1500 and Quality Aircraft about $2000.
 
I just did Poplar Grove for $950. Bendix D-3000. 5 day turn around.
 
What's the cost between overhaul and and going with surefly?
 
The D3000 on our Dakota should be back to the A&P this week. He sent it to Kelly Aerospace. Not sure on the cost yet.
 
Racerx said:
What's the cost between overhaul and going with surefly?
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It's two magnetos in one housing, with one rotor and one drive gear, and fits into the only available hole in the accessory case. There are no affordable alternatives. Bendix made this dual mag, and the only engines that use it are Lycomings. When Continental bought Bendix, they dropped the dual mag, probably since it only helped the competition. Surefly has nothing to fit that spot, and no one else does, either. Parts will dry up sooner or later.

One would have to install a different engine, or get the existing engine converted to a two-mag model. Expensive.
 
I believe there is an STC to convert my IO-540-K1G5D to an IO-540-K1G5 at overhaul. I need to research that since overhaul could be coming in the next few years.
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
I believe there is an STC to convert my IO-540-K1G5D to an IO-540-K1G5 at overhaul. I need to research that since overhaul could be coming in the next few years.
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I think you'll need two STCs. One to convert the engine to the different model number, and another to install the new model in your airplane.

Regulations. So much fun.
 
There is a shop in Connecticut that was able to install a different engine with two mags in a Dakota. They did it with some sort of field approval and maybe a DAR but not was not too difficult.
 
Assuming Lycoming will accept your core engine, last I read there were additional costs for any engine core over 30 years old, there would be like an upcharge of $3500 for unlike engine cores per older articles about this topic.
 
bnt83 said:
Assuming Lycoming will accept your core engine, last I read there were additional costs for any engine core over 30 years old, there would be like an upcharge of $3500 for unlike engine cores per older articles about this topic.
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If a field overhauler does it they would rebuild his engine and install the different accessory cover that accommodates two mags.
 
Dan Thomas said:
If a field overhauler does it they would rebuild his engine and install the different accessory cover that accommodates two mags.
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Aren't the crankcases different as well? I don't think they have enough provision on the back to accommodate that conversion. I wouldn't be shocked if the crankshaft assembly was different as well.
 
bnt83 said:
Aren't the crankcases different as well? I don't think they have enough provision on the back to accommodate that conversion. I wouldn't be shocked if the crankshaft assembly was different as well.
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Im pretty sure the cases are different too. I looked into doing a conversion a number of years ago, because I was supporting several dual magneto engines at the time. From what I remember, the only realistic way was to buy a different engine that was set up for separate magnetos from the start.

Regarding the dual magnetos, everyone who has one needs to do the 500 hour services. There is high risk of having problems if they are pushed beyond that interval.
 
Skyrys62 said:
Thanks. Great to know.. I'm at 500hrs also.
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They did my 500hr as well. Same deal as @NealRomeoGolf , right around 1amu. I'm hoping there's an electronic ignition option before the next 500hr. Not holding my breath, though....
 
Here we go:

You basically give your K1G5D to Lycoming as a core and buy a K1G5 as factory rebuild or factory new. The STC I posted above then allows you to install it in a PA32. The person said that the price on a K1G5 rebuild is cheaper than a K1G5D rebuild and so apples to apples the K1G5 lower price pays for the STC.
 
NealRomeoGolf said:
Here we go:

You basically give your K1G5D to Lycoming as a core and buy a K1G5 as factory rebuild or factory new. The STC I posted above then allows you to install it in a PA32. The person said that the price on a K1G5 rebuild is cheaper than a K1G5D rebuild and so apples to apples the K1G5 lower price pays for the STC.
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That was my understanding of them all with these mags, that field conversion was not practical, its really an engine swap. I've worked on aircraft with them but never had a desire to own one of them.
 
Shop got our D3000 back this week. I don’t have the report in hand, but ~$1600 from Kelly. Basically an IRAN. Replaced points, replaced one cap, and one gear had a damaged tooth.
 
So QA could not find one after two weeks and I sent mine back to Aircraft Electrical Components in Redding, CA. They did it last time and it was perfect. This time is seems the timing is set at 20°(R) and 23°(L) whereas the target is 22° +/-2°. The rpm drop is 100(R) and 60 (L) which is just within specs. Before the drops were within 20 rpm.

I'm not sure if I should send it back to them or not - it's borderline to me.

This dual mag is such a hassle.
 
DesertNomad said:
So QA could not find one after two weeks and I sent mine back to Aircraft Electrical Components in Redding, CA. They did it last time and it was perfect. This time is seems the timing is set at 20°(R) and 23°(L) whereas the target is 22° +/-2°. The rpm drop is 100(R) and 60 (L) which is just within specs. Before the drops were within 20 rpm.

I'm not sure if I should send it back to them or not - it's borderline to me.

This dual mag is such a hassle.
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It likely won't get better. Might claim warranty while you can.
 
DesertNomad said:
So QA could not find one after two weeks and I sent mine back to Aircraft Electrical Components in Redding, CA. They did it last time and it was perfect. This time is seems the timing is set at 20°(R) and 23°(L) whereas the target is 22° +/-2°. The rpm drop is 100(R) and 60 (L) which is just within specs. Before the drops were within 20 rpm.

I'm not sure if I should send it back to them or not - it's borderline to me.

This dual mag is such a hassle.
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Get a local mechanic that is comfortable working on these magnetos to straighten it out. This is not a complicated task, but it can be a patience tester to get both timed within the +/-2° window.

In my opinion, it is in your best interest to cultivate a relationship with a local mechanic that works on these to make ownership a more pleasant experience. They don't necessarily need to do the overhaul or 500 hour inspections but the little stuff in between those major services will get tedious if you have to send it off every time something needs a little attention.
 
>> I had mine done at last annual by an Arizona company - $800 rebuild

Was that Lycon Inc of Arizona ?
 
I got mine back from Aircraft Electrical Components. It was times to 20 (R) and 23(L) which is in tolerance of +/-2 but they are off in opposite directions. I had a good, smooth drop on the left side of 60-70 rpm but the right side carried from 80-130 and ran a bit rough which is over the difference limit of 50. After most of a day I had to give up waiting and fly Portland back to Reno commercially. My mechanic will send it back to try again I guess.

Last time when AEC did it, it worked perfectly with an identical drop on both sides of about 70.
 
DesertNomad said:
I got mine back from Aircraft Electrical Components. It was times to 20 (R) and 23(L) which is in tolerance of +/-2 but they are off in opposite directions. I had a good, smooth drop on the left side of 60-70 rpm but the right side carried from 80-130 and ran a bit rough which is over the difference limit of 50. After most of a day I had to give up waiting and fly Portland back to Reno commercially. My mechanic will send it back to try again I guess.

Last time when AEC did it, it worked perfectly with an identical drop on both sides of about 70.
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If they got them 3° apart, I'm wondering how close they got the cam location on the shaft to the specs. It's critical, and it affects the spark strength. They're a pain to set, but it's worth it to nail the settings exactly. It means best performance, and longest useful life.
 
They replaced my ignition switch and Lycoming SB 1132B says 1800 rpm or 65% but he POH says 2000 rpm.

At 1800 we are seeing drops of 150(L) and 170 (R) which is much more than before and very close to the limit of 175, but then all my tests prior have been at 2000 rpm.

This is quite frustrating.
 
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