Car Decisions...

[Greebo]

I own a '96 Lexus LS400. I bought it used, at 6,000 under book value, from a Volvo dealership which had the car on the lot for 30 or 45 days, I forget, and was about to send it to auction and sold it to me for what they gave it as value on trade in. I bought it in 2001 and its been a great car. It had about 80k on it when I bought it and is a bit over 130k now.

So I took it to the dealership last week for a slightly belated 120k service. I don't go to the dealer every time - this is the 2nd time I've taken it to them. Usually I go to Sears or NTB or somewhere like that depending on what I need done.

Anyway so they gave it this really "thorough" looking over ... and come back with a laundry list of $6,000 worth of stuff that needs doing - some right now, some later. I had the timing and drive belts replaced - they were originals (yipes) - but the other stuff I didn't do includes:

• Sparks, Spark Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor all need replacement
• Front Lower Ball Joints - Excess Play
• Rear axle carrier bushings - torn
• Power steering rack and pinion leaking (and also an alignment)
• EGR Pipe cracked allowing fumes into cabin
• Oil pan dented needs replacing

Now I say "thorough" in quotes, because while they were giving me this long list of stuff they found, they FAILED to notice that my right front headlight needed replacement, which was SUPPOSED to be a part of the 120k service...cause its still out...

Oh, and there's no sign of any leaks in my driveway, I've noticed no ill feelings or exhaust smells in the cabin, or any suggestion of problems with the steering. I'm taking it back tomorrow afternoon and have told them I want their mechanic to show me the items in person while he fixes my headlight that I already paid them to fix but they didn't...

I have every intention of getting a 2nd opinion from an independent shop but I also wanted to ask on here, which of the above list of items are really likely to need replacement? And when I go for the 2nd opinion - I'm thinking about telling the mechanic "These are the items I was given - please give me your opinion on them" or would it be smarter to simply ask for a thorough going over? (The mechanic is very trusted by my wife and mother-in-law, so I'm inclined to give him the benefit of a doubt...)

But I'm also debating whether or not to even keep the car. Its a great car, but hey it IS a 96, and lets say the dealership WAS square with me and even if I have the work done somewhere else, I'm gonna throw another 3 or 4 thousand at it... Well the book value on the car now is pretty much what I owe on it - if I can get that much in trade, I dunno - maybe I should consider just replacing it now before it does start really going down hill on me.

On the other hand, if I put in the 3-4k, maybe I can milk this car along to 200k miles. I've had aspirations of doing that, after all...

So I find myself in a quandry. Your opinions, expert or otherwise, are welcomed. Please, make me more confused.

 

[wsuffa]

I had the timing and drive belts replaced - they were originals (yipes) - but the other stuff I didn't do includes:

• Sparks, Spark Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor all need replacement
• Front Lower Ball Joints - Excess Play
• Rear axle carrier bushings - torn
• Power steering rack and pinion leaking (and also an alignment)
• EGR Pipe cracked allowing fumes into cabin
• Oil pan dented needs replacing

Now I say "thorough" in quotes, because while they were giving me this long list of stuff they found, they FAILED to notice that my right front headlight needed replacement, which was SUPPOSED to be a part of the 120k service...cause its still out...

Oh, and there's no sign of any leaks in my driveway, I've noticed no ill feelings or exhaust smells in the cabin, or any suggestion of problems with the steering. I'm taking it back tomorrow afternoon and have told them I want their mechanic to show me the items in person while he fixes my headlight that I already paid them to fix but they didn't...

I have every intention of getting a 2nd opinion from an independent shop but I also wanted to ask on here, which of the above list of items are really likely to need replacement?

But I'm also debating whether or not to even keep the car. Its a great car, but hey it IS a 96, and lets say the dealership WAS square with me and even if I have the work done somewhere else, I'm gonna throw another 3 or 4 thousand at it... Well the book value on the car now is pretty much what I owe on it - if I can get that much in trade, I dunno - maybe I should consider just replacing it now before it does start really going down hill on me.

On the other hand, if I put in the 3-4k, maybe I can milk this car along to 200k miles. I've had aspirations of doing that, after all...

So I find myself in a quandry. Your opinions, expert or otherwise, are welcomed. Please, make me more confused.

First question/comment: Dealer? RUN AS FAST AS YOU CAN!!!
Second question/comment: You gonna be this cheap when you buy a plane?

Now for the serious stuff. Lexus makes a great car.

1) Timing belt is a must-do, which you did.
2) If you have exhaust in the cabin, you must get that fixed. Take your CO detector and see.
3) Oil pan, ignore unless it has a hole in it.
4) Leaking power steering will probably be trouble in the long run
5) Plugs, cap, rotor - if they are split or arc, then you will have problems starting & running the car.
6) Ball joints will be a longer-term problem, and may be safety issue at some point.
7) Carrier bushings may or may not be a problem. Dunno.

See what it would cost from an independent mechanic. But if you're anywhere close to the $6000 mark, you may find it worthwhile to go buy another car. I think a Maserati in "Arrest Me" Red would suit you fine....

 

[gkainz]

Chuck, from my experience when a dealer performs a scheduled maintenance, the parts that "need replacing" are driven by the maintenance list, not by failed parts. TBO on the parts, I guess. So, while in the plane, TBO may be a darn good idea, but in a car - I'm not so sure I agree. I would opt for a trusted mechanic to give it a full checkout (maybe with, maybe without the dealer's list) and then prioritize the repair list into must, should, could fix. I quit driving new vehicles a while ago, because it just turned out to be way cheaper in the long run. My wife, on the other hand, gets the new car, because her "peace of mind" is worth a lot to me.

 

[woodstock]

oh good Lord, 6 grand? put it towards a new/newer car. it's nearly 10 years old - 6 months away!

 

[Greebo]

96 models came out in 95...

And if it were a 96 Chevy or Toyota, I'd go for a replacement (new/preowned) tomorrow. But this is a Lexus.

Re the "leaking steering" - like I said, there are no fluid drips on my driveway, so where's the leak GOING, I wanna know...

What the heck ARE carrier bushings?

No, Bill, I don't plan to be "cheap" about the plane, but I dont plan to be stupid about the car either.

 

[woodstock]

96 models came out in 95...

And if it were a 96 Chevy or Toyota, I'd go for a replacement (new/preowned) tomorrow. But this is a Lexus.

Re the "leaking steering" - like I said, there are no fluid drips on my driveway, so where's the leak GOING, I wanna know...

What the heck ARE carrier bushings?

No, Bill, I don't plan to be "cheap" about the plane, but I dont plan to be stupid about the car either.

I know they came out in 95 - September 95 - i.e. in 6 months it's 10 years old.

it doesn't owe you a thing. put it out to pasture.

my power steering leaked, a few weeks ago - and it was all caught by the drip pan. not a drop in my garage, but you shoulda heard my car squeal. and me, squeal, 900 bucks later. (that included brakes though).

 

[Greebo]

It owes me in that I still *owe* on it though. If I don't get at least a trade-in offer for what its gonna cost me to pay it off, I wont consider buying new yet.

 

[Robert]

What the heck ARE carrier bushings?

Carrier bushings hold the driveline to the underside of the car, there is usually one about hafway down the vehicle. If the bushing is torn, then it needs to be replaced, if worn, find out how much. If it fails, the driveline can drop and catch on the ground. I had to replace a very worn bushing on my tacoma (worn due to increased angle from lift kit) and it was about $650 for the part.

Plug cap and rotor can wait until it fails to start, or dies when going through a puddle.
Robert

 

[Mark S]

[*]Sparks, Spark Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor all need replacement
[*]Front Lower Ball Joints - Excess Play
[*]Rear axle carrier bushings - torn
[*]Power steering rack and pinion leaking (and also an alignment)
[*]EGR Pipe cracked allowing fumes into cabin
[*]Oil pan dented needs replacing
[/list]Now I say "thorough" in quotes, because while they were giving me this long list of stuff they found, they FAILED to notice that my right front headlight needed replacement, which was SUPPOSED to be a part of the 120k service...cause its still out...

I have every intention of getting a 2nd opinion from an independent shop but I also wanted to ask on here, which of the above list of items are really likely to need replacement?

But I'm also debating whether or not to even keep the car. Its a great car, but hey it IS a 96, and lets say the dealership WAS square with me and even if I have the work done somewhere else, I'm gonna throw another 3 or 4 thousand at it... Well the book value on the car now is pretty much what I owe on it - if I can get that much in trade, I dunno - maybe I should consider just replacing it now before it does start really going down hill on me.

On the other hand, if I put in the 3-4k, maybe I can milk this car along to 200k miles. I've had aspirations of doing that, after all...

So I find myself in a quandry. Your opinions, expert or otherwise, are welcomed. Please, make me more confused.

Spark Plugs -$ 80
Plug wires -$120
Dist Cat -$ 20
Rotor -$ 10
Steering Rack -$330 rebuilt ($1402 List )
Ball Joints - ??
EGR pipe - ??

A good tune up at this point would not hurt. $230 in parts. The steering rack will probably last a while - keep an eye on it and check the fluid level. Usually these may weep and get dirty, but leaks should be addressed. The ball joints can turn into a safety (and vehicle inspection) issue depending on the state. Not a bad idea to replace. The EGR pipe could be an issue and I would get it checked.

If the car is still running well, I would do some necessary stuff, keep an eye on the other things and keep driving a good car. Much cheaper than buying another new (to you) vehicle. Hey, it's 7 years newer than the car I'm driving...

 

[gkainz]

Mark, are you quoting Aviation prices above?
from Napa;
Spark plugs, Bosch Platinum $1.99 ea
Plug wires, woops, you're right on... ok, I quit....

 

[ErikU]

I had the exact same thing with the Acura dealer. A huge list of stuff they wanted to do that was minor, but expensive. I avoided almost all of it for another six years. When I finally sold the car it still ran and drove great.

You took care of the important stuff, I would ignore the rest. And why do you care if the oil pan is dented?sheeh.

 

[Greebo]

Update - took car back on Sat and had them put it up on the rack for me to show me in person what they were talking about. (And replace the light they missed...)

• Sparks, Spark Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor all need replacement

Didn't look at - I'll change that when I have trouble starting. She starts like a champ.

• Front Lower Ball Joints - Excess Play

Ok - to demonstrate this the mechanic basically grabbed the front wheels and was able to wiggle them both by hand. I believe this is not good - as a wiggling front wheel would mean excess wear, no? This is on the "fix soon list".

• Rear axle carrier bushings - torn

To demonstrate this the mechanic banged by hand on struts that connected to the rear wheel and there was a slight movement at the connection. I don't really know the mechanism here well enough to know if this is really bad or not? Another mechanic will check this.

• Power steering rack and pinion leaking (and also an alignment)

There was a sign of a VERY slow leak around the right side. This is on the "fix soon list".

• EGR Pipe cracked allowing fumes into cabin

They couldn't show this to me w/o pulling the transmission but said you could see it if you looked with a long mirror. I was running late and didn't push on this but will have another mechanic check.

• Oil pan dented needs replacing

Yep, big old dent from when some dumbass put a huge rock in the road and I didn't see it until too late and hit it - destroying the tire and throwing big chunks up under the car. The leak, however, is again, extremely slow. Still - I will replace it in time because a leak is a leak.

In all we've decided to keep the car because it really is in good shape otherwise and I think I can get another 80k miles out of it at least by putting this work into it. I just don't plan to have much of this done at the dealership.

 

[imQ]

Are they trying to sell you a steering gear, or a reseal kit?
Toyota pn# 44250-50090 retail $1462.04 (gear)
pn# 04445-50020, retail $120.19 (seal kit)

 

[AdamZ]

Chuck: Before you take what I have to say, understand that I do not trust car dealers, so my statements will be biased. I am capable of working on my autos myself to an extent. I have changed the oil and filter, battery,replaced and alternator, replaced a slave cylinder for a clutch etc. I can do this because I am somewhat mechanically inclined and have a friend who is an absolute wiz with cars who helps me. That being said, if a mechanic showed me a bad CV joint or torn bushings I wouldn't know if he was yanking my chain or not.
For used cars out of warranty I try to find a good local mechanic who you trust. Believe me they are out there. Even if you do need all that work done chances are a local non dealer mechanic will charge you a lot less.
I will tell you that leaking fluids oil etc can reak havoc on your belts they can eat them away. Fluid dripping on a new timing belt can dissolve it then one day BAM! you've thrown a rod or rods though your engine and its shot. Some times all you need is a gasket expander ( buy it by the bottle in PepBoys) You may need to dump a bottle in now and then but it is a cheap fix.
As for me I drive a 1993 Nissan Pathfinder with 157,000 miles on the car and 120,000 on the engine. Mine blew after the timing belt went so I had a used one put in rather than buy a new car only cost about $1,600.00 installed including new belts, including timing and water pump. Not a bad deal. Of course it has a bunch of rust. I hope to get 1 more year out of it before it falls apart, which is a shame b/c it runs great. I drive a beater b/c then I have more money to fly. Next I'll look into the Toyota Pirus to save $$$ on gas.
Good luck cars can be a pain and its tough to know who to trust.

Adam Zucker

 

[Don Jones]

I own a '96 Lexus LS400. I bought it used, at 6,000 under book value, from a Volvo dealership which had the car on the lot for 30 or 45 days, I forget, and was about to send it to auction and sold it to me for what they gave it as value on trade in. I bought it in 2001 and its been a great car. It had about 80k on it when I bought it and is a bit over 130k now.

So I took it to the dealership last week for a slightly belated 120k service. I don't go to the dealer every time - this is the 2nd time I've taken it to them. Usually I go to Sears or NTB or somewhere like that depending on what I need done.

Anyway so they gave it this really "thorough" looking over ... and come back with a laundry list of $6,000 worth of stuff that needs doing - some right now, some later. I had the timing and drive belts replaced - they were originals (yipes) - but the other stuff I didn't do includes:

• Sparks, Spark Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor all need replacement
• Front Lower Ball Joints - Excess Play
• Rear axle carrier bushings - torn
• Power steering rack and pinion leaking (and also an alignment)
• EGR Pipe cracked allowing fumes into cabin
• Oil pan dented needs replacing

Now I say "thorough" in quotes, because while they were giving me this long list of stuff they found, they FAILED to notice that my right front headlight needed replacement, which was SUPPOSED to be a part of the 120k service...cause its still out...

Oh, and there's no sign of any leaks in my driveway, I've noticed no ill feelings or exhaust smells in the cabin, or any suggestion of problems with the steering. I'm taking it back tomorrow afternoon and have told them I want their mechanic to show me the items in person while he fixes my headlight that I already paid them to fix but they didn't...

I have every intention of getting a 2nd opinion from an independent shop but I also wanted to ask on here, which of the above list of items are really likely to need replacement? And when I go for the 2nd opinion - I'm thinking about telling the mechanic "These are the items I was given - please give me your opinion on them" or would it be smarter to simply ask for a thorough going over? (The mechanic is very trusted by my wife and mother-in-law, so I'm inclined to give him the benefit of a doubt...)

But I'm also debating whether or not to even keep the car. Its a great car, but hey it IS a 96, and lets say the dealership WAS square with me and even if I have the work done somewhere else, I'm gonna throw another 3 or 4 thousand at it... Well the book value on the car now is pretty much what I owe on it - if I can get that much in trade, I dunno - maybe I should consider just replacing it now before it does start really going down hill on me.

On the other hand, if I put in the 3-4k, maybe I can milk this car along to 200k miles. I've had aspirations of doing that, after all...

So I find myself in a quandry. Your opinions, expert or otherwise, are welcomed. Please, make me more confused.

Chuck, just ask the independent shop to do a thorough inspection. Then compare his list with the other one. We see a lot of shops here condeming stuff way before it is an issue. Front end stuff and ball joints in particular are the worst, with most using the wrong technique to check for play. I am sure some of the items can be deferred til later. Non- safety items of course. If I can be of any help, let me know.
Don--
30 year tech & auto shop owner

 

[bbchien]

I own a '96 Lexus LS400. ...... and come back with a laundry list of $6,000 worth of stuff that needs doing. .....I dunno - maybe I should consider just replacing it now before it does start really going down hill on me.

Your opinions, expert or otherwise, are welcomed. Please, make me more confused.

I own a '96 Lexus LS400.... It had about 80k on it when I bought it and is a bit over 130k now...maybe I should consider just replacing it now before it does start really going down hill on me.

My thinking would be to sell it. This isn't an aeroplane. Either you maintain it by the book throughout or you do it they way you have...and sell before the next maintenance cycle. My replacement choice would be a Ford 500, purchased WITH the 7 year warranty (After all it's a FORD). I find the car delightful, and after figuring out that the noise in the trunk is this cheapo plastic connector (I isolated it with a smidgen of weatherstrip foam) it's good and tight. Its 4WD CVT gets 18.5 city and 24 on the road, and has a HUGE comfortable interior. You get it with every goody in the book for $30K. It's not a rocket ship but it isn't slow by any means. At 70 mph the engine is turning 2250 rpm.

Run it 7 years and the cost of owning new is minimal. No status but what a great car...(so far...BUY THE WARRANTY it fits in the 30K!)

 

[Ken Ibold]

My thinking would be to sell it. This isn't an aeroplane.

snip

My replacement choice would be a Ford 500, purchased WITH the 7 year warranty (After all it's a FORD).

I gotta say Bruce has the right idea. My car strategy (except for the horrendous Durango, which was a POS from Day 1) is to buy a new car, care for it by the book, and drive it for 8-10 years. It worked with my '90 BMW convertible, worked with my 03 Explorer, working with my current 6-year-old BMW 3 series and ought to work with my current 04 Honda Pilot. And the cost, depreciation included, is probably less than milking the second 100K miles out of an old Lexus. (BMW now includes 5 years scheduled maintenance in the purchase price, which along with the warranty covers basically everything except tires and brakes.)

 

[Len Lanetti]

Toyota...do the periodic maint and keep the body clean...good for 200K miles.

Len

 

[PoAdeleted5]

I fix them myself if I can do it without a lift. If it needs a lift, then it goes to the shop. i do my own oil, plugs, wires, belts, filters, brakes, on all my cars.

All run reliably and have for years. I had one car that came with "free maintenance" and I found that free meant they always found something to try charge me for and the hassle of dealership service completely negated any positive about not being charged for it. I always had to watch them like a hawk because invariably they would use the wrong oil (special requirement for diesels), overfill the crankcase and would fail to replace items that were covered in the maintenance schedule, or insist on trying to charge me for the item. Then it was a phone call to VW of America corporate, confirm coverage, then have them tell the dealership that indeed it was covered, blah blah blah. I was always having to make appointments weeks in advance and out of my car for an entire day or sometimes 2-3 JUST for the scheduled maintenance.

I will never buy another German car again. Nothing but trouble. Just as bad late 70's Chrysler products. Even BMW and Mercedes. All junk, all the way up and down the product line.

My Chevy (2002 Corvette) has been the most reliable car I've ever owned, period. Surpassing all the Japanese cars I've owned over the years. Weird, but true. It's also one of the best all around daily drivers I've ever had too. On top of that, the average gas mileage for normal city/highway mix beats the Nissan Altima I had several years ago.

 

[Ken Ibold]

I will never buy another German car again. Nothing but trouble. Just as bad late 70's Chrysler products. Even BMW and Mercedes. All junk, all the way up and down the product line.

I disagree with that. Both of my BMWs have been extremely reliable (nearly Honda-like) over long periods of ownership. Sure, parts cost is occasionally high, but not always.

I'll never buy a Chrysler/Dodge again, based on my disastrous Durango. (4 years, 46K miles, in the shop 23 times (two different dealers) with more than $4,000 out of pocket on doing the same repairs over and over.

 

[wsuffa]

Chevy/GM, never again for me. Never. Bad car, bad service, bad dealer, and a general "F- Off" from the Manufacturer zone rep. I can't say I'm sorry to see GM doing badly right now.

 

[gibbons]

I disagree with that. Both of my BMWs have been extremely reliable (nearly Honda-like) over long periods of ownership. Sure, parts cost is occasionally high, but not always.

I'm with Ken on this one. My first German car, a Porsche, is the finest automobile I've ever owned.

I'll never buy a Chrysler/Dodge again...

OK, Ken and I are in synch here. Two Chrysler Pacificas and a Dodge Durango. It takes me a while to learn my lesson but never, ever again (unless it's a Viper )

Chip

 

[bbchien]

I'm with Ken on this one. My first German car, a Porsche, is the finest automobile I've ever owned. Chip

The word on the street is that both BMW and Mercedes let the owners perform the beta phase testing on their i-drive systems. Not really what an owner of a $65,000 vehicle expects. The stories of woe around here are nothing short of appaling.

Manufacturers simply cannot anticipate all the ways in which digital equipment will fail in the field. But it shouldn't be at the customer's expense and time. Ford's systems are taken from the Volvo S80 4WD. My mid transaxle case says "Ford. Made in Gillenhamer" on it. They bought the company whole and took the technology. When i-drive gets to second generation I'll consider it then....

 

[Ken Ibold]

I'm with Ken on this one. My first German car, a Porsche, is the finest automobile I've ever owned.

When I was 24 I got a 944. Good car, but in the hands of a youngster it took some serious abuse. Fun, though. About 15 years ago I had a Carrera that I absolutely LOVED, but, alas, could not afford to own long term.

 

[Mark S]

Whole different philosophy here. I buy older cars, primarily old Mercedes Diesels and drive the snot out of them. When something breaks it gets evaluated as to the seriousness and either repaired or let go. For example, the brakes get done reguarly, the sunroff (as long as it's closed) doesn't have to work. If it is bad enough, the car gets sold or junked and a new one purchased.

These cars are cheap, easy to maintain and run for ever. My latest car is an '89 300E. 156,000 miles, first non diesel Mercedes, but very good condition was only $3,400. It should last another 5 years and 100,000 miles at least. Don't know what I'm going to buy when I start buying the current cropof cars. Just don't see anything that looks like it will last as long. Highest mileage is a '85 300D my oldest daughter is driving now. Only 360,000 miles and still runs strong.

 

[SCCutler]

I had an Audi ('93), ran it to 93,000 miles when it gave its life into the side of a Ford Bronco; to that point, it was solid as a hunk of granite, an dthe dealer took very good care of me (first time I ever felt like I had a dealer I could trust). I bought it to replacean older Audi which had 160k miles, still ran great.

I took a Cherokee to 140k and sold it looking almost new, running that way too.

1990 Cadillac bought cheap, drove from 60k to 120k, sold to brother in law (made him sign a paper acknowledging it could fall apart on the way home), he drove it to about 200k.

Bought a new Caddy in 2001 (zero interest made me weak), it has 50k miles and is great, dealer could not treat me better (free loan cars, they pick up and drop off, etc.).

Pick your dealer carefully, take good care of it, cars will last forever.

But don't put $6k into the Lexoid, not worth it.

==

By the way, car services routinely put 600,000+ miles on Lincoln Town Cars, expect to put tires and brake pads, nothing else. Service I use took me to DFW last year in one with over 500,000 miles, it was quiet, smooth, even the leather was good.

 

[Don Jones]

By the way, car services routinely put 600,000+ miles on Lincoln Town Cars, expect to put tires and brake pads, nothing else. Service I use took me to DFW last year in one with over 500,000 miles, it was quiet, smooth, even the leather was good.

I have a fleet of shuttle vans I maintain for them. All Chevy Astro vans, all with 600k on the clock 2 of them went over 1 million before being retired. All of them are on the original engine and have never been opened up. Not so lucky on the tranny's though. Almost anything lasts well if maintained properly.
Don

 

[Greebo]

But don't put $6k into the Lexoid, not worth it.

I don't intend to put $6k into it - I intend to have the major repairs done by a mechanic my In-laws swear by, hopefully for a lot less. Have still got to set up the appointment.

The thing is I still owe on the car and pretty much what I owe == its book value at the moment. With these damages to the car, I couldn't hope to get nearly what its worth in trade, and I will NOT go into buying a new car while still owing on an old one, if I can help it.

But this car has 130k miles on it and is well built enough that I fully believe i can get another 70 or 80k out of it if I put in a few more thousand now.

I know this isn't an airplane, but I'm not inclined to treat this car as disposable either.

 

[Greebo]

Toyota...do the periodic maint and keep the body clean...good for 200K miles.

My next car will probably be a Toyota. Maybe a 4 Runner...

But thats why I like the Lexus - its just a souped up Avalon with more features.

 

[Anthony]

Whole different philosophy here. I buy older cars, primarily old Mercedes Diesels and drive the snot out of them. When something breaks it gets evaluated as to the seriousness and either repaired or let go. For example, the brakes get done reguarly, the sunroff (as long as it's closed) doesn't have to work. If it is bad enough, the car gets sold or junked and a new one purchased.

These cars are cheap, easy to maintain and run for ever. My latest car is an '89 300E. 156,000 miles, first non diesel Mercedes, but very good condition was only $3,400. It should last another 5 years and 100,000 miles at least. Don't know what I'm going to buy when I start buying the current cropof cars. Just don't see anything that looks like it will last as long. Highest mileage is a '85 300D my oldest daughter is driving now. Only 360,000 miles and still runs strong.

Mark,

Aren't Mercedes very expensive to maintain even for little stuff? Do you have a mechanic that you trust that doesn't charge dealer rates?

I had a BMW once (before I got into flying) that ate me alive with maintenance and parts are almost as bad as airplane parts!

Now I drive a 2003 Jeep Wrangler Sport (a real Jeep) that I bought new, but will keep a long time like my last car which I had for 8 years and 250,000 miles. The beauty of the Jeep is they make TONS of aftermarket parts and mods. They are so simple you can just pop stuff in. Its great for Colorado off roading and rivals the Tiger in fun factor on weekends.

 

[Len Lanetti]

My next car will probably be a Toyota. Maybe a 4 Runner...

Chuck,

You're a single guy, right!? Run to the nearest Toyota dealer, get the convertable MR2 Spyder in red (tan top and interior) before they are all sold out(Toyota is going to stop making them soon).

Len

 

[Greebo]

You're a single guy, right!?

Uh...no...

Didn't you meet my wife last year at Pottstown?

Run to the nearest Toyota dealer, get the convertable MR2 Spyder in red (tan top and interior) before they are all sold out(Toyota is going to stop making them soon).

Nah, all my bodily equipment still functions and I dont' feel the need to compensate for any failing equipment with sports cars.

 

[Len Lanetti]

I know this isn't an airplane, but I'm not inclined to treat this car as disposable either.

Chuck,

The plugs, cap and ignition wires you could probably do your-self (note replace wires one at a time, don't take all the old ones off at once). Get the parts at an auto parts store not the dealer, spring for the better quality parts (you'll know which ones, they'll be a little more expensive).

You might also be able to do the oil pan your self, if not that is a job I would farm out to a non-dealer shop with lower labor rates. That said, if it is not leaking who is going to know it is dented.

For the ball joints the mechanic should have a lever type device with an indicator that shows how much play is present and a reference that specifies how much play is too much. Not familiar with the read suspension part but there should a similar device and reference on how much play is too much. You could probably farm that work out to a shop that has a good reputation for suspension work...you can tell if a shop does a lot of that type of work as they will have a very expensive looking four wheel alingment rack with attached lasers, computers and other high tech accuterments. I wouldn't have this work done until all the pot holes in your neck of the woods are repaired.

Len

 

[Michael Nyland]

I have a 97 VW Golf with a 140,000 and it runs great. No real problems sice the day I got it. I used the dealer for the first few years. Recently I've give the business to a garage whose owner is a pilot. Much better service at much lower costs.

I had a 97 Chrysler Town and Country which ran great till 130, 000 then things started to go wrong. Moved up to an Volvo XC90 which my wife loves and, as I would expect, has given us no problems in its first year and 25,000 miles.

I'm in the market for another car. If I go new the 300C from Chrysler looks intesting. If I go used, I fancy the Passat V6, AWD.

 

[woodstock]

Chuck,

You're a single guy, right!? Run to the nearest Toyota dealer, get the convertable MR2 Spyder in red (tan top and interior) before they are all sold out(Toyota is going to stop making them soon).

Len

how much do those things run?

 

[Greebo]

how much do those things run?

As long as the key's in the ignition and there's gas in the tank.

*ba dum, ching!*

 

[Toby]

I have a 2000 Camry that I absolutely love. I would definitely buy another Camry -- it's the best car I've ever had. I'm giving it to my two younger daughters who are coming home from college for the summer, and I'm getting myself a new Honda Civic coupe in about 2 weeks.

Gas prices here are up to $2.35/gal!

 

[Len Lanetti]

Uh...no...

Didn't you meet my wife last year at Pottstown?

Chuck,

Whoops.

Len

 

[Len Lanetti]

how much do those things run?

About the same as an O360 factory reman installed. :<(

MSRP $25K, $26K with the six speed manual...I think the only options are limited slip differential and the leather interior. If I was in the market I would get the six speed manual with the limited slip differential, red exterior, tan leather interior with tan top.

My old MR2 was quick and fun to drive. It was a hard top. This version looks like it would be even more fun to drive and it has about 30 more horses under the hood.

Len

 

[Anthony]

I like the Toyota MR2 and I think Len's right. This is the last year. I also like the Miata, a friend of mine (yeah the same guy with the $225K V35B) bought a limited edtion Mazdaspeed turbocharged version with 180 HP. He never drives it in the rain or bad weather. Its just a toy, but it goes like a bat out of hell.

Personally, I like the Honda S2000 and Nissan 350Z for mid priced sports cars.