Buying a used CAR with "damage history"

gismo

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iGismo
I've been shopping for a car that my daughter will be driving this summer and I came across an otherwise nice one at a local dealer that had been in a serious front end collision. I kinda wandered into the deal backwards though and have pretty much concluded that this is not the right car. We had gone to several different dealers to "try out" various make/model vehicles to see where her preferences lay with no intention of making an immediate purchase. The one that got her highest ratings was a Mazda3 sedan at a Mazda dealer so we went home and began researching this type more thoroughly (I had done some preliminary checking on prices/safety/reliability etc) and discovered that the car we drove appeared to be one of the best deals around although it was slightly above my intended price ceiling. I called the salesman back and explained that we liked the car but wondered if there was any wiggle room on the "out the door" price (this was a "no haggle" fixed price outfit). He told me that they do re-evaluate the prices fairly often and the official price might indeed come down a bit. Lo and behold, when he called me back later he offered that the price had indeed been lowered slightly (enough to close the gap to my ceiling sufficiently) but that there was another couple looking at the car for their grandaughter (who knows, this could actually have been true) so I went ahead and authorized a credit card deposit of $1000 on the car subject to further inspection since we really hadn't gone over the car anywhere near adequately on the first visit.

This was last Friday, and the car was to be prepped and ready on Saturday, including the correction of whatever was causing a vibration in the steering when we drove it (we were assured on the drive that this would certainly be fixed before delivery). We were also told by the salesman that the car's original factory warranty was still in effect for several months and 20some thousand miles. I'm pretty sure he also said there had been no serious accidents. I also knew they had the CarFax report available but hadn't seen it yet. So when we arrived at the dealer to close the deal, we started looking at the car closely and found some issues. For one thing the leading edge of the driver's door was really chipped up with what looked like a liberal coating of touchup paint applied without much prep. There were also some broken plastic pieces under the hood such as the battery box and the bumpers that should hold up the hood were either missing or broken. We found that the alloy wheels were a bit roughed up on the edges, and there was at least one 25 cent piece sized spot on the left front pillar where the paint appeared to be coming off due to corrosion underneath the paint. Then we learned that they hadn't quite been able to resolve the vibration and that the tech had determined that the "motor mounts" needed replacing with the suggestion that this would completely eliminate the residual vibration.

Once we brought this all up we were invited to look over the CarFax which indicated two accidents in the car's one owner history. The first said something about a front end collision and "Airbags deployed". The second was even more cryptic, listing two different case numbers and the note: "Car was on fire". Now I couldn't see any evidence of fire around the engine compartment (there were some obviously original plastic parts that weren't heat damaged and the wiring harness looked original and unharmed) so we all suspect that this bit of info is in error but I suppose the fire could have been in the rear as there was no mention of the exact circumstances of the second collision. At my request the dealer then contacted the previous owner (who had traded the car in on a new one) to learn more about the collisions and repairs. He was told that the second accident was relatively minor (got no more details) and that the first one's damage was indeed extensive but the car was repaired since it was barely a year old at the time. He was also told that the repair shop for the first accident was "Maaco", a chain that has a less than stellar reputation when it comes to top notch body work.

At this point we were pretty convinced that we didn't want this car anymore even though there were conflicting emotions pushing us to conclude the sale (disappointment etc). I told the dealer that I'd think it over and get back on Monday and that I would want their shop to compile a complete inspection report with an explanation about the engine mounts and whatever else might have been affected by the collision. They also suggested that they might be able to obtain the work order for the damage repairs for us to check for completeness etc.

And now that I've had time to reconsider I've concluded that we'd simply not ever be comfortable with this car and I'm going to ask for my deposit back. I don't expect any hassle with that (they pretty much said I was entitled to it) and in any case they have a "5 day 300 mile, no questions asked" return policy so worst case would be to purchase the car and return it (probably sans the title fee etc).

Since the car was otherwise looking like a pretty good deal I'm still wondering if this is the best course but that's defintely my plan for now. And I have located a couple other choices that are comparable and might even be better. The car discussed above was a 2004 model with 32,000 miles, my current first choice is a 2006 with 67,000 miles from a private party, and the backup is a 2006 with 87,000 miles from another local dealer. The 67k mile one is about 200 miles away in Wisconsin so it involves some complicated logistics but the price is a thousand less than the local 89k version and the distant one also has an automatic transmission which is my daughter's preference. For comparison the 32k mile 2004 model was $1600 more than the 67k mile 2006 but it also has a shot term "dealer warranty" and a couple perks like free car washes and oil changes for the life of the vehicle.

What does the collective PoA mind think of all this? Would you walk away from the damaged car (the other two have clean records and the local one appears to be damage free to me).
 
Lance:

Stay the hell away from this thing. It would have to be a lot cheaper to make the risk worthwhile. A proper repair should be almost undetectable to all but the most expert examiner.

My mom bought an "expertly repaired" Infiniti from a local Infiniti dealer, and it looked good. But, it was never close to right.
 
No way in hell I'd take the damaged car. My first priority with buying a car or bike is to find something that is completely original, unmodified, no idiot wrench work, and no accidents.

Who knows what actually happened, who actually repaired it, if all the recommended work was done , etc.

Move on.....

..on that note..I have a really nice 1998 Pontiac Sunfire that would be *ABSOLUTELY* perfect for your daughter. It is a beautiful red (rust on bottom of the doors) with a strong engine (haven't changed the oil in 30,000 miles). The transmission is from a junk yard and was swapped by an idiot (me) but is totally top-notch. There is no air-conditioning, but that is fine, I got by without it in Minneapolis for years. The entire coolant system is pretty rusted out and it likes to spring a leak sometimes. I have a handy dandy toolkit to fix the leaks though (jb weld, hose, hose clamp, several gallons of coolant in the trunk). Sometimes the muffler falls off but a good hand can re-attach it with fencing wire and then it's good for like another 3 months. It starts easily, provided, you stomp on the gas pedal. Remote start included.

Over the last year:
New spark plugs
New spark plug wires
new coils
new alternator
new battery
new serpentine belt
new water pump
new thermostat

I'm not a good salesman, but, it's a hell of a car! Just send your $1000 deposit my way and it's totally yours! Includes Minnesota plates out the door! Don't worry, it may be *FAST RED* but it isn't that fast. 115 HP at 5800 RPM.

Let me know when you want me to deliver it---You'll have to fly me back to Nebraska.
 
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You can fix a car, but you can't un-wreck it. Run, do not walk, away.

That's my plan, but I also have to be realistic. Like old airplanes, older used cars with absolutely no "damage history" can be kinda rare and I'm generally OK with a repaired car body as long as I know the repair was done properly. Like Mr Cutler said, a good repair should be virtually undetectable and this one isn't. Given the extent of the damage as I suspect it is, I'm wondering why this doesn't have a salvage title. On that score I think it's likely because the car was so new at the time. I once had a car that was rear ended by a drunk going 40 mph (I was stopped). The entire rear end from bumper to axel was smashed flat and my seat was broken. The car was about 4 months old at the time with something like 3000 miles on it. The repairs cost about half of the price I paid for the car when new but you couldn't tell that there had ever been any damage without taking the car apart and comparing the welds to an identical one. And there was never any subsequent issue with the repair. The shop that did that was definitely not Macco.
 
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..on that note..I have a really nice 1998 Pontiac Sunfire that would be *ABSOLUTELY* perfect for your daughter. It is a beautiful red (rust on bottom of the doors) with a strong engine (haven't changed the oil in 30,000 miles). The transmission is from a junk yard and was swapped by an idiot (me) but is totally top-notch. There is no air-conditioning, but that is fine, I got by without it in Minneapolis for years. The entire coolant system is pretty rusted out and it likes to spring a leak sometimes. I have a handy dandy toolkit to fix the leaks though (jb weld, hose, hose clamp, several gallons of coolant in the trunk). Sometimes the muffler falls off but a good hand can re-attach it with fencing wire and then it's good for like another 3 months. It starts easily, provided, you stomp on the gas pedal. Remote start included.

Over the last year:
New spark plugs
New spark plug wires
new coils
new alternator
new battery
new serpentine belt
new water pump
new thermostat

I'm not a good salesman, but, it's a hell of a car! Just send your $1000 deposit my way and it's totally yours! Includes Minnesota plates out the door! Don't worry, it may be *FAST RED* but it isn't that fast. 115 HP at 5800 RPM.

Let me know when you want me to deliver it---You'll have to fly me back to Nebraska.

Sounds perfect. The check's in the mail...
 
I'd walk away from this one.

Do you really want your daughter driving something that you really *don't know* what else might not have been done right? I know if I had kids that I wouldn't put them in that position. The car's on that lot for a reason.

My $0.02
 
I'd walk. You are already second guessing and having doubts. That will only get worse and you will never have the trust that you got a deal deal nor a safe car. Best to keep looking.
 
I'd pass on this one. If you have a budget target you're trying to hit, look at high mileage Hondas (or Toyotas), prefereably a lease return where the previous owner got dinged for the excess miles, and the dealer can sell it for less. I've done this a couple of times and it's worked out well.

Cars are just too complex these days to buy a repaired wreck. And the structures are only designed to yield once. Trying to pull new the newer steel alloys back into shape can really compromise the future crashworthiness of the vehicle.

Good luck with your search, I'd rather get a root canal than go car shopping...


Trapper John
 
Further reflection: an insurance repair on a near-new car like that is a goldmine for an honest shop, as all appropriate repairs are paid-for by the carrier.

Nonetheless, they skimped (blatantly) on things you can clearly see. Imagine how thorough they were on those things you cannot see.
 
Nonetheless, they skimped (blatantly) on things you can clearly see. Imagine how thorough they were on those things you cannot see.

I'd walk on this as well. With today's type of construction, a front end collision to the magnitude you describe, it will be difficult to put it back together again and NOT have alignment problems, suspension issues and various other parts being out of alignment. It can be done, but takes a top flight shop and attention to detail.

Gary
 
That's my plan, but I also have to be realistic. Like old airplanes, older used cars with absolutely no "damage history" can be kinda rare and I'm generally OK with a repaired car body as long as I know the repair was done properly.

I think this is a good assessment, done by a quality body shop repairs should not be an issue. Also, remember that Car-Fax is far from perfect, They only know what they are told. Make sure (and it sounds like you are) that you trust your eyes more than that piece of paper. I have seen too many cars like you describe show up as a "clean" vehicle on the car-fax.

Sounds like you have found some good alternatives. If you are second guessing now, just walk away and try another one, there are a lot of Mazda 3's out there.

~Jon
 
If I knew that the airbags had deployed, I'd want to see for myself that airbag modules had actually been reinstalled. For many models, of *ahem* "diminished economic stature", deployed airbags will economically total an otherwise repairable car. This happened to my wife's Ford Windstar. Unscrupulous repair shops will sometimes just not put the modules back in, or will put in modules from salvage yards, or stolen modules. These things are, in some cases $1K or more.

I think you wiser for walking away. And I thought you pretty wise to start with.:smile:
 
Walking away is the right thing. There's no such thing as an IA signing off the car as "roadworthy" after repairs, meaning it fully conforms to the original design.

There ARE places that will repair a car to "like new" condition, but that is only done on high-value cars or where the owner is willing to throw more money than he'd ever get for the car in resale. Kind of like re-doing your kitchen.

Get her a Miata! Tons of fun to drive, safer than many sedans according to IIHS statistics, not very fast, a convertible, and CHEEEAP to purchase and maintain. And with only two seats, you'll never worry about her going out with a bunch of kids and doing something stupid.
 
and after you get the Miata, wander over to the Gearz website, as well as monstermiata.com ... 1st upgrade on the list for a Miata is a 5.0 V8! Whooohoooo!!!!!
 
I'd walk away from this one.

Do you really want your daughter driving something that you really *don't know* what else might not have been done right? I know if I had kids that I wouldn't put them in that position. The car's on that lot for a reason.

My $0.02

Are you talking about Jesse's beater or the Mazda I was discussing?:smile:

I have already called the dealer and told them I don't want the car and they're going to refund my deposit so all is well there.

On a marginally related flying note, I've found what looks like a pretty good Mazda3 a couple hundred miles west of here in Wisconsin and plan to fly over there tomorrow to look it over. If it's in good shape I'm planning to buy it and I'll be taking my wife along to drive it back here (about a 4 hr drive). I was hoping to get the local Mazda dealer to check the car over but they can't get to it until the end of the week and I don't want to wait that long. Hopefully I'll be able to tell if the car is OK by myself. It's being sold by the wife of a serviceman over in Iraq and I've talked with the woman several times coming away with the feeling that she's on the level, plus the CarFax on her car matches her story and shows no issues.
 
and after you get the Miata, wander over to the Gearz website, as well as monstermiata.com ... 1st upgrade on the list for a Miata is a 5.0 V8! Whooohoooo!!!!!

Or the new 500 HP V8 for the Atom. Seriously though, even a stock 1.6L Miata like my '91 is terrific fun without a lot of horsepower.
 
OBTW, I think the Mazda 3 is the class-act of its market segment. Having long since gotten over name-brand consciousness (except, perhaps, Beechcraft!), I think I could easily enjoy driving such a car.
 
+1 - the Mazda 3 reminds me of the old CRX Si's or the early Proteges - great value for the money and a fun car to drive.
 
Too bad it's a Japanese Ford, with all of the baggage that comes with being majority owned by the Ford Motor Company. If it weren't for that, I'd say they're great cars.
 
Too bad it's a Japanese Ford, with all of the baggage that comes with being majority owned by the Ford Motor Company. If it weren't for that, I'd say they're great cars.

Last I checked Ford owns a little over 13% of Mazda, I wouldn't consider that "majority owned".

Jon
 
That's my plan, but I also have to be realistic. Like old airplanes, older used cars with absolutely no "damage history" can be kinda rare ...

Really? None of my 12 year+ old cars have damage history, unless you mean rust spots, scrapes and parking lot dings.

Most suburbia/over 30 driver cars go cradle to grave driving two lanes and the interstates and not hitting anything.

It's good you use Car Fax. I'd never buy a car without getting the 30 day membership. It told me my van had lived in the burbs it's whole life so it was worth the risk.
 
I've rented some Mazda 3s and I think they are fine. The other similar car I've rented which I thought was pretty good was the Hyundai Sonata.
 
OBTW, I think the Mazda 3 is the class-act of its market segment. Having long since gotten over name-brand consciousness (except, perhaps, Beechcraft!), I think I could easily enjoy driving such a car.

Mazda3's are good little cars - though they share a lot with the Focus (and it's part of the reason that Ford is considered the better-quality domestic company).

I think the newer Honda Civics are a bit better than the 3. The 3 is a bit more fun to drive. The Honda - well, it's a great little car. I ended up with an '06 Civic and have not regretted for a moment.
 
Really? None of my 12 year+ old cars have damage history, unless you mean rust spots, scrapes and parking lot dings.

Most suburbia/over 30 driver cars go cradle to grave driving two lanes and the interstates and not hitting anything.

It's good you use Car Fax. I'd never buy a car without getting the 30 day membership. It told me my van had lived in the burbs it's whole life so it was worth the risk.

Just a note on Car Fax. You only see what insurance companies reported. My insurance company does not report to Car Fax (American Family). When the report was run on the wife's car it showed clean, when it had been in two wrecks that the insurance company paid to fix.

Mark B
 
Just a note on Car Fax. You only see what insurance companies reported. My insurance company does not report to Car Fax (American Family). When the report was run on the wife's car it showed clean, when it had been in two wrecks that the insurance company paid to fix.

Mark B
You see the when, who and where for see every registration of the car, which is clue enough. If the car ever lived in Louisiana or Mississippi look for fish under the dash. If it lived on the west side of Chicago, look for the forgotten drugs. :rolleyes:
 
IMO, damaged cars are like damaged planes: good repairs by a reputable shop are acceptable, to me anyway. My cousin knew of a fellow who specialized in just-barely totaled late model Toyotas, with a keen eye for what was easily repairable by his body shop. After the glowing reports from my cousin on two cars he bought, I myself purchased a Camry with a salvage title. 130k miles later, it is still a great commuter, no surprises attributable to a previous wreck.

Just one family's experience.
 
As others have said, run away. It is your daughter's safety at stake.

Assuming the front end damage bent a few things that were not replaced: Deformed metal, bent back in place is never a strong as the original condition. What will protect her in the next collision? Let somebody else have it!

-Skip
 
Mazda3's are good little cars - though they share a lot with the Focus (and it's part of the reason that Ford is considered the better-quality domestic company).

I think the newer Honda Civics are a bit better than the 3. The 3 is a bit more fun to drive. The Honda - well, it's a great little car. I ended up with an '06 Civic and have not regretted for a moment.

The cars on my "acceptable" list included a Civic, a Hyundai Accent, and a Kia Spectra in addition to the Mazda3. I think the Sonata is a larger car, more like the size of a Honda Accord. I considered the bigger cars but thought that the fuel economy difference was enough to push for something slightly smaller. I was looking for something with ABS, head and side airbags, auto transmission (wouldn't rule out a stick if everything else was a plus), and a folding rear seat for her snowboard. We didn't drive a Civic but a friend of hers has one so she's familiar with them. My expectation was that we could get something newer (07-08) with the Hyundai or Kia although the resale might suffer. I was expecting to go as far back as 2003-2004 for the Mazda or Honda but the Mazda3 we're about to check out in Wisconsin is an '06.
 
Really? None of my 12 year+ old cars have damage history, unless you mean rust spots, scrapes and parking lot dings.

Most suburbia/over 30 driver cars go cradle to grave driving two lanes and the interstates and not hitting anything.

It's good you use Car Fax. I'd never buy a car without getting the 30 day membership. It told me my van had lived in the burbs it's whole life so it was worth the risk.

Well, you're a better driver than me (or luckier). Seems like almost every car I've owned got hit at one time or another. My current one (2005 Audi S4) was going to be my first accident free car until my next door neighbor (we share a common driveway) T-boned me in the driveway last fall. The car before that was rear ended when it was 3 weeks old although the damage was limited to the rear bumper. It got rear butted again a bit harder a year later and I managed to punch out my AC condensor on the trailer hitch attached to the car in front of me one day as well (no damage to the other car).
 
My expectation was that we could get something newer (07-08) with the Hyundai or Kia although the resale might suffer. I was expecting to go as far back as 2003-2004 for the Mazda or Honda but the Mazda3 we're about to check out in Wisconsin is an '06.

The Honda will be a bit more expensive. But they hold their value very, very well.

I have been less than impressed with the Hyndai or Kia. Likewise the newer Nissan Sentras (the older ones were good little cars - I still have a '94 Sentra that's the airport car).
 
Well, you're a better driver than me (or luckier). Seems like almost every car I've owned got hit at one time or another. My current one (2005 Audi S4) was going to be my first accident free car until my next door neighbor (we share a common driveway) T-boned me in the driveway last fall. The car before that was rear ended when it was 3 weeks old although the damage was limited to the rear bumper. It got rear butted again a bit harder a year later and I managed to punch out my AC condensor on the trailer hitch attached to the car in front of me one day as well (no damage to the other car).

I've hit things like when I pulled into the city parking space off the alley and made a mental note to watch for the utility pole when I backed out. When I left an hour later I hit it flat on, of course, but other than a good size jolt it just scratched the bumper and broke a little plastic.

THAT kind of damage, yes. No "T-bones." :nono:
 
Well, you're a better driver than me (or luckier). Seems like almost every car I've owned got hit at one time or another. My current one (2005 Audi S4) was going to be my first accident free car until my next door neighbor (we share a common driveway) T-boned me in the driveway last fall. The car before that was rear ended when it was 3 weeks old although the damage was limited to the rear bumper. It got rear butted again a bit harder a year later and I managed to punch out my AC condensor on the trailer hitch attached to the car in front of me one day as well (no damage to the other car).
My Jeep, which will 15 years old in a couple of months has had only one collision. It was rear ended. A lady in a brand new Mitsubishi hit while I was stopped waiting for a person in front of me to make their left turn. The lady who hit me went under my truck and only damaged a little of the bumper and the skid plate on the gas tank. She totaled her car. I drove away.
 
My Jeep, which will 15 years old in a couple of months has had only one collision. It was rear ended. A lady in a brand new Mitsubishi hit while I was stopped waiting for a person in front of me to make their left turn. The lady who hit me went under my truck and only damaged a little of the bumper and the skid plate on the gas tank. She totaled her car. I drove away.

A week after my daughter got home from college she had an accident in the used 1995 Jeep Wrangler we gave her. She slowed for traffic on the freeway and a full size Chevy pickup truck rear-ended her. Smashed the rear of the Jeep, took out the glass in the hard top. Truck wound up on its side. She drove home (shaken up, but OK).

3 years ago I had a lady in a Saab (I think it was) think that she could occupy my lane on the free way at the same time I was there. I slammed on the brakes and horn and then crabbed the wheel into her just as she hit so I wouldn't get shoved into the next lane to my left. Left a serious mark on the side of her car. Not a scratch on the Jeep.

A year and a half ago a lady in a pickup truck turned left in front of me in a traffic circle and I ran into her door. That bent my fender. Her insurance paid for the repairs. I suspect her door was a little worse off.

My wife got rear-ended sitting at a light in her old 1997 Grand Cherokee. The other guy's insurance paid for the repairs to both vehicles. There was sheet metal damage, as well as plastic (useless plastic bumpers)

She also had an idiot blow a red light and take the plastic front bumper off the GC. If she had gone another few inches the damage would have been much worse. That RED Jeep was a magnet for idiots.

I'll stick with the Wranglers. Well built for slugging it out with the people that pass for drivers around here.
 
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A week after my daughter got home from college she had an accident in the used 1995 Jeep Wrangler we gave her. She slowed for traffic on the freeway and a full size Chevy pickup truck rear-ended her. Smashed the rear of the Jeep, took out the glass in the hard top. Truck wound up on its side. She drove home (shaken up, but OK).

3 years ago I had a lady in a Saab (I think it was) think that she could occupy my lane on the free way at the same time I was there. I slammed on the brakes and horn and then crabbed the wheel into her just as she hit so I wouldn't get shoved into the next lane to my left. Left a serious mark on the side of her car. Not a scratch on the Jeep.

A year and a half ago a lady in a pickup truck turned left in front of me in a traffic circle and I ran into her door. That bent my fender. Her insurance paid for the repairs. I suspect her door was a little worse off.

Jeep 4 - others 0

You hit the horn? HOW RUDE!!!! They were ON THE PHONE! :D
 
...

I'll stick with the Wranglers. Well built for slugging it out with the people that pass for drivers around here.

Funny you mention that. Right now, I'm debating fixing up the 89 Jeep I had in high school (needs a lot work, floor is rusted through...drivers seat isn't even bolted, engine isn't getting fire, I'll need to rebuild the engine anyway, needs a new paint job, wheel bearings probably need to be replaced, and a whole bunch of other stuff), or just buying a used one (pre-95, hate the 97-post ones).

I can do all the work myself, but it would involve driving to Maryland and then towing it back on a trailer, and then doing all the work. Of course, I already have a good idea of what needs fixin', and I'd know it was done right. At the same time, it's just a pain in the but, and with my schedule I'm looking at months of work at the absolute minimum.

So, I'm thinking I'll just pick up a used '88-'95 out here, and take my chances.

Even funnier, the '89 at home is a salvage car - it had been overboard (not damaged, just marinated for a while). Might explain, at least in part, the rusted-through floor.

Anyway, with only a skim of the remaining posts in this thread - stay the heck away from the car that is the subject of the OP. There's a big difference between buying your kid an inexpensive - yet mechanically sound - car in high school, and buying a cheap car. Who the heck knows what's really wrong with the thing. It's easy to patch a car up cosmetically so it doesn't look too bad, but something like a bent frame is a little more difficult to detect - and cars with bent frames are put back into circulation all the time.
 
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