182H aileron max deflection question after brs chute install

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50kttailwind

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50kttailwind
Just had a brs chute installed on my 182H. I believe they loosen the aileron rigging to install the parts around the wing.

Plane flies fine and seems identical to before (with a more rearward CG). However, I can’t recall if the ailerons were like this before.

Checking the controls for max deflection and the full deflection stop now feels gummy or squishy. Little nudge more and the yoke travels further than full deflection. It’s not a loose cable. The aileron will move further with the over travel. Otherwise normal travel range feels good. Solid with no slack or hangups.

I may be overly obsessive about this since the plane just got some heavy maintenance. Is this normal? I truly don’t remember if it was like this before.
 
50kttailwind said:
I may be overly obsessive about this since the plane just got some heavy maintenance. Is this normal?
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Not at all. The 1st clue is that the aircraft is different then when it went into mx and the change was not anticipated. Perhaps have your mechanic look it over to find the "squishy" stuff.
 
Bell206 said:
Not at all. The 1st clue is that the aircraft is different than when it went into mx and the change was not anticipated. Perhaps have your mechanic look it over to find the "squishy" stuff.
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Thanks. Problem is I can’t recall if it was like that before. I thought the yoke hit a hard stop at full deflection. I never paid enough attention when running the controls through the checklist.
 
We have a 182H as our club ship. mind giving some info on what it did to your useful and cost??
 
The TCDS details aileron deflection that the aircraft must have to be considered
Airworthy.

You should be able to feel the bellcrank hit the end of a slot either way if rigged properly.
 
Racerx said:
Not nearly as bad on either one as I'd have thought.
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The big penalty on the 182 is the loss of cargo space. It's mounted right behind the rear bench centered under the rear window.
 
Yeah, no captaining that bird til it’s looked at. Hoping you have an A&P on site so you don’t have to; good luck.
 
Congrats on the BRS. It's such an amazing safety measure.
 
Factor in line cutters, 10 year repack (10k today), and 20 year system life.
Currently there is no price on the system replacement.
On the plus side, as I read the STC, you can placard the system inop and still be airworthy.
 
50kttailwind said:
Just had a brs chute installed on my 182H. I believe they loosen the aileron rigging to install the parts around the wing.

Plane flies fine and seems identical to before (with a more rearward CG). However, I can’t recall if the ailerons were like this before.

Checking the controls for max deflection and the full deflection stop now feels gummy or squishy. Little nudge more and the yoke travels further than full deflection. It’s not a loose cable. The aileron will move further with the over travel. Otherwise normal travel range feels good. Solid with no slack or hangups.

I may be overly obsessive about this since the plane just got some heavy maintenance. Is this normal? I truly don’t remember if it was like this before.
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The system is out of rig. They messed it up. Get it fixed according to the service manual. Too many mechanics just adjust things without knowing the right procedure and they get it all out of whack. I've fixed so many Cessna ailerons systems it's not funny.

What you're feeling is the aileron bellcrank on one side hitting its stop. Turning the other way, the other crank hits its stop. They are supposed to BOTH reach their respective stops at the same time, both up and down. If not, you end up with less travel.
 
manac said:
On the plus side, as I read the STC, you can placard the system inop and still be airworthy.
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Which I guess means you would only really be allowed to pull the handle if there was an emergency. ;)

That said, short of massive structural failure, I'd probably take my chances on deadsticking it versus pulling the handle on a BRS system that hadn't been serviced in two decades.
 
Brad Z said:
Which I guess means you would only really be allowed to pull the handle if there was an emergency. ;)

That said, short of massive structural failure, I'd probably take my chances on deadsticking it versus pulling the handle on a BRS system that hadn't been serviced in two decades.
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As I understand it on a Cirrus no chute no fly.
For a single the chute is good for: night, low IFR, inhospitable terrain, icing as well as structural failure and collision.

It’s cheaper and safer than a twin, on the fence on this.
 
manac said:
As I understand it on a Cirrus no chute no fly.
For a single the chute is good for: night, low IFR, inhospitable terrain, icing as well as structural failure and collision.

It’s cheaper and safer than a twin, on the fence on this.
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Understood. With the Cirrus, the chute was a requirement for meeting certification. Thus an inop chute would make the aircraft unairworthy. For a skylane that was certificated without a chute, an inop chute is still airworthy (provided it is placarded).

My point is if the system goes a long period without proper servicing, it can't be relied upon in an event that might call for its deployment.
 
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I didn’t realize cirrus was no go with no chute. Wonder why the certification requires that??
 
Dan Thomas said:
I think spin recovery wasn't too good.
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As I recall, Part 23 had been revised to include additional spin requirements. With the restart Cessnas and the AGATE initiative the FAA allowed for exceptions to get things moving again. I believe while the BRS was always part of the Cirrus design it was also used as an ELOS to meet those new spin requirements, so it became part of the certification. The other AGATE aircraft, Columbia 300, used a modification to the flight control system to achieve a different ELOS for those spin requirements.
 
Our Cirrus is currently undergoing a repack and rocket replacement. We were granted a 2 year extension by the FAA due to lack of parachutes (Supply chain issue)
Over the last 2 years, the plane flew fine with the expired chute.

Cost for the repack is $23k. $30k doesn't sound bad for a complete new install by comparison.
 
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