NA Ford F150 V8 or Ecoboost

Bjb3013

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Bjb3013
Looking at new Ford trucks and I am torn between the 5L V8 and the Ecoboost V6 Turbo
I usually keep trucks until they die and the turbos scare me.
Any thoughts on reliability of each?

Brent
 
From the engine supplier viewpoint, I can tell you both are doing well on the longevity end of the spectrum. Request activity is low to moderate, and I attribute the requests I do get to the quantity of trucks/engines out in the active fleet.

Definitely not like the early Dodge _.7's of 10-12 years ago.

2013 F150 3.5L Turbo motor I usually sell for $3300-3750 with turbo (mileage determines ask price.

2013 F150 5.0L motor I usaully sell for $2750-3100.


In general, they are well constructed. Just follow a conservative maintenance schedule and you'll do fine.
 
I am the parts manager at a Ford dealership. Buy the truck that fits your needs and budget, either engine is fine. Their mission is slightly different, but most daily drivers would do fine with either.
 
If you're keeping it long term and willing to properly mx the truck, it'll last longer than you will, in this case I'd get the na V8.
 
Are you going to do any towing? Friend has a new F150 with the ecoboost and it is horrible at towing more than a two horse trailer (4000lbs or so). Normal driving around town though it gets great mileage.

Keith
 
I have a 2012 f150 quad cab 4x4 for a company vehicle. It has the 5.0 in it. I am very happy with the truck other than the fuel mileage. I average 14.9 mpg, thought it would do a little better than that. Doesn't really bother me as I have a fuelman card. Has plenty of power.
 
Are you going to do any towing? Friend has a new F150 with the ecoboost and it is horrible at towing more than a two horse trailer (4000lbs or so). Normal driving around town though it gets great mileage.

Keith

This.
If you are towing, or hauling a lot of weight in the bed, get the V8 with torque. Torque for tow, HP for show. :D

Unfortunately that turbo motor isn't very old so no one knows how long they will last.
 
You now have the 2.7L and 3.5L ecoboost to choose from.

I have the 3.5L ecoboost in my 2012.

If you are doing a lot of towing I would suggest the 3.5L over the 5L. The torque it puts out is great. Ignore those telling you the 5L will be better for towing...they must not have experience with the 3.5L ecoboost. Don't buy the 3.5L thinking you'll save fuel over the 5L as you won't.

For the record if you check the Ford website...the most highly rated for towing with an F-150 is the 3.5L @ 12,000LB. The highest rating for the 5.0L is 11,100LB. Approaching either of those numbers with a half-ton truck seems like a bad idea to me.

2.7L ecoboost: 325hp, 375 ft-lb @ 3k rpm
3.5L ecoboost: 365hp, 420 ft-lb @ 2.5k rpm
5.0L V8: 385hp, 387 ft-lb @ 3850rpm


My ecoboost has been trouble free. I have no experience with the 5L other than a test drive.
 
Driven often or periods of sitting? I'd say if it's driven often get the 3.5 eco and use the Torque, Luke! If it is going to be sitting idle for long periods, it would be a harder decision. I don't know how turbo bearings like long periods of inactivity.
 
...and just to keep things interesting, there is going to be an upcoming Ecoboost 5.0 V8. It was meant for the next GT500 and recently was announced it will be in the 2018 F-150 Raptor. I don't know about the standard F-150 but I bet it will be available there too. I heard it will have 580 HP.
 
...and just to keep things interesting, there is going to be an upcoming Ecoboost 5.0 V8. It was meant for the next GT500 and recently was announced it will be in the 2018 F-150 Raptor. I don't know about the standard F-150 but I bet it will be available there too. I heard it will have 580 HP.

Last I heard the Raptor and GT supercar were both going to get highly modified 3.5 eco in that horsepower range.

On a slightly different front, I'm looking forward to test driving the Focus RS when it comes out. 2.4L 4 cyl eco that will be putting out 350hp and 350lb-ft. Combined with the advanced AWD it's going to be a beast.
 
Are you going to do any towing? Friend has a new F150 with the ecoboost and it is horrible at towing more than a two horse trailer (4000lbs or so). Normal driving around town though it gets great mileage.

Keith

Which one? The 3.5 ecoboost is the best engine for towing offered in any 1/2 ton gas truck. This is backed up with the torque curves, output and also my personal experience pulling a draggy 8000lb boat around.
 
About 2 years ago we bought used 2011 Ford Flex with AWD and EcoBoost V6. We bought it largely as a tow vehicle to tow a 4,500 lb. (loaded) travel trailer.

22939560996_db2703f88b_z.jpg


Have towed it about 7,000 miles so far, including over some pretty hilly terrain. Plenty of torque or power or whatever.

About 21 or 22 mpg highway unladen, about 11 or 12 mpg towing.

Happy with it so far - no data on long term reliability. Just one glitch so far - a failed crank sensor that kept it from starting - fortunately under warranty.
 
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So I went through this decision awhile back and I ended up with a 2011 4x4 lariat supercrew w 3.5 EcoBoost. I've owned it about a month and a half. Its currently in the shop getting its 8 foot long timing chain and all the cam phasers replaced at 100k miles. This problem affects vehicles through 2015.

The ecoboost has amazing torque, burns regular gas just fine. The transmission is great and the factory coolers handle towing my 8000lb boat without heating up more than 10F over the normal unloaded temp.

The Ecoboost does have a few common problems that you will read about if you search the internet.

1) Loss of power in heavy rain/high humidity conditions. This is an issue with condensation in the intercooler. I have driven it in heavy rain and never had this problem.

2) Timing chain rattle - In the higher mileage trucks there is a problem with the timing chain tensioners and cam phasers, resulting in a loud rattle at startup when the truck has been sitting for over 8 hours. Mine had this problem. Ford has released updated parts and this is covered under the extended powertrain warranty. I did not buy new, but I think the extended warranty is around 1k extra when buying and covers you to 120k miles.

3) Intake valve carbon buildup. This is a problem with any direct injection vehicle. The fuel is injected directly into the cylinder and so the only thing flowing over the intake valves is air and crankcase fumes from the PCV. Over time the gases from the PCV system cause the intake valves to get gunked up. The 3.5 ecoboost does not seem to be experiencing these issues as bad as other direct injection vehicles. At 100k I have a very slight rough idle and i'm getting 2 mpg worse than the low mileage loaner I have from Ford (same truck, engine, drivetrain). $600 or so to have an independent shop clean the valves (ford does not recognize the issue) or you can DIY in a half day. The valves are fairly easy to get to and you only need a shop vac and some long shafted wire brushes + cordless drill.

In order to prevent the carbon buildup, many owners are cleaning the valves and then installing a "catch can" which basically filters the crankcase gases before they go back into the intake.


I knew about all of these issues before I purchased the truck. I didn't have a chance to cold start the vehicle to check for that rattle, but the warranty I got with the truck covered it. In the end, I decided the extra power for towing the boat was worth the potential extra maintenance over the v8. Also its fun to drive with the extra torque. It makes the full 420 ft lbs of torque at 2500rpm and it makes 90% of that at 1700rpm. You can set the cruise control at 75mph and go up a steep hill, never downshifts.
 
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The EB is better for towing/acceleration, the 5.0L is just a slightly less complex engine. Either will do fine for most all who own them.

Turbos aren't nearly the headache they used to be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The EB is better for towing/acceleration, the 5.0L is just a slightly less complex engine. Either will do fine for most all who own them.

Turbos aren't nearly the headache they used to be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I meant to put this in my post, but I have not heard of any common issues with the turbos.
 
So I went through this decision awhile back and I ended up with a 2011 4x4 lariat supercrew w 3.5 EcoBoost. I've owned it about a month and a half. Its currently in the shop getting its 8 foot long timing chain and all the cam phasers replaced at 100k miles. This problem affects vehicles through 2015.

The ecoboost has amazing torque, burns regular gas just fine. The transmission is great and the factory coolers handle towing my 8000lb boat without heating up more than 10F over the normal unloaded temp.

The Ecoboost does have a few common problems that you will read about if you search the internet.

1) Loss of power in heavy rain/high humidity conditions. This is an issue with condensation in the intercooler. I have driven it in heavy rain and never had this problem.

2) Timing chain rattle - In the higher mileage trucks there is a problem with the timing chain tensioners and cam phasers, resulting in a loud rattle at startup when the truck has been sitting for over 8 hours. Mine had this problem. Ford has released updated parts and this is covered under the extended powertrain warranty. I did not buy new, but I think the extended warranty is around 1k extra when buying and covers you to 120k miles.

3) Intake valve carbon buildup. This is a problem with any direct injection vehicle. The fuel is injected directly into the cylinder and so the only thing flowing over the intake valves is air and crankcase fumes from the PCV. Over time the gases from the PCV system cause the intake valves to get gunked up. The 3.5 ecoboost does not seem to be experiencing these issues as bad as other direct injection vehicles. At 100k I have a very slight rough idle and i'm getting 2 mpg worse than the low mileage loaner I have from Ford (same truck, engine, drivetrain). $600 or so to have an independent shop clean the valves (ford does not recognize the issue) or you can DIY in a half day. The valves are fairly easy to get to and you only need a shop vac and some long shafted wire brushes + cordless drill.

In order to prevent the carbon buildup, many owners are cleaning the valves and then installing a "catch can" which basically filters the crankcase gases before they go back into the intake.


I knew about all of these issues before I purchased the truck. I didn't have a chance to cold start the vehicle to check for that rattle, but the warranty I got with the truck covered it. In the end, I decided the extra power for towing the boat was worth the potential extra maintenance over the v8. Also its fun to drive with the extra torque. It makes the full 420 ft lbs of torque at 2500rpm and it makes 90% of that at 1700rpm. You can set the cruise control at 75mph and go up a steep hill, never downshifts.

#1 is interesting. My dad has a 2012. We were getting on a freeway in heavy rain when the truck was about 6 mos old. As he got into the throttle to get to 70 mph (from about 30), the truck just laid down, almost like you threw a rag in the intake. Then it cleared. He took it in under warranty and they installed a revised (larger IIRC) inter cooler. Never understood the connection but this might explain it.
 
So I went through this decision awhile back and I ended up with a 2011 4x4 lariat supercrew w 3.5 EcoBoost. I've owned it about a month and a half. Its currently in the shop getting its 8 foot long timing chain and all the cam phasers replaced at 100k miles. This problem affects vehicles through 2015.

The ecoboost has amazing torque, burns regular gas just fine. The transmission is great and the factory coolers handle towing my 8000lb boat without heating up more than 10F over the normal unloaded temp.

The Ecoboost does have a few common problems that you will read about if you search the internet.

1) Loss of power in heavy rain/high humidity conditions. This is an issue with condensation in the intercooler. I have driven it in heavy rain and never had this problem.

2) Timing chain rattle - In the higher mileage trucks there is a problem with the timing chain tensioners and cam phasers, resulting in a loud rattle at startup when the truck has been sitting for over 8 hours. Mine had this problem. Ford has released updated parts and this is covered under the extended powertrain warranty. I did not buy new, but I think the extended warranty is around 1k extra when buying and covers you to 120k miles.

3) Intake valve carbon buildup. This is a problem with any direct injection vehicle. The fuel is injected directly into the cylinder and so the only thing flowing over the intake valves is air and crankcase fumes from the PCV. Over time the gases from the PCV system cause the intake valves to get gunked up. The 3.5 ecoboost does not seem to be experiencing these issues as bad as other direct injection vehicles. At 100k I have a very slight rough idle and i'm getting 2 mpg worse than the low mileage loaner I have from Ford (same truck, engine, drivetrain). $600 or so to have an independent shop clean the valves (ford does not recognize the issue) or you can DIY in a half day. The valves are fairly easy to get to and you only need a shop vac and some long shafted wire brushes + cordless drill.

In order to prevent the carbon buildup, many owners are cleaning the valves and then installing a "catch can" which basically filters the crankcase gases before they go back into the intake.


I knew about all of these issues before I purchased the truck. I didn't have a chance to cold start the vehicle to check for that rattle, but the warranty I got with the truck covered it. In the end, I decided the extra power for towing the boat was worth the potential extra maintenance over the v8. Also its fun to drive with the extra torque. It makes the full 420 ft lbs of torque at 2500rpm and it makes 90% of that at 1700rpm. You can set the cruise control at 75mph and go up a steep hill, never downshifts.

That is IMPRESSIVE for a 215 cu in motor....:yes::yes:
 
It makes the full 420 ft lbs of torque at 2500rpm and it makes 90% of that at 1700rpm. You can set the cruise control at 75mph and go up a steep hill, never downshifts.


That is IMPRESSIVE for a 215 cu in motor....:yes::yes:


Ford has basically taken what it's learned from Powerstroke diesel development and applied it to gas engines.
 
hmm. Good info. I hadn't seen those numbers on the eco v6, juts the 4. Sounds like a good compromise on mpg and pull.
 
#1 is interesting. My dad has a 2012. We were getting on a freeway in heavy rain when the truck was about 6 mos old. As he got into the throttle to get to 70 mph (from about 30), the truck just laid down, almost like you threw a rag in the intake. Then it cleared. He took it in under warranty and they installed a revised (larger IIRC) inter cooler. Never understood the connection but this might explain it.

That was it.. they have an updated intercooler
 
I've got a 2012 Ecoboost. I towed an enclosed trailer with my mazda pickup truck. It did pretty well even on uphill grades.

As far as gas mileage, it's been sitting at 16.7 mpg in mixed driving for the last few years. No real economy IMO vs. the 8 cylinder.

Engine has been awesome. I know there were early reports of issues. I think it may have been related to the intercooler, but mine has been flawless. The transmission on the other hand developed a "clunk." It turns out that the driveshaft can develop a little play. There was a service bulletin to address it but I think it's a bandaid. They dropped the driveshaft and added a different lube and seal. So far, it's much better but the tech didn't instill a lot of confidence.

Overall it's been a great truck. My neighbor bought a 2015 king ranch version, and it's a sweet looking ride.
 
Both pull fine for a half-ton.

Last I checked Ford still only rated the 5.0 for "Fleet Duty", a rating that fleet managers take seriously. They'd happily switch to the 6-Cyl for mileage gains across their fleets but don't.

How long are you planning to keep it? If you're in it until the wheels fall off, get the 5.0. If you're the average person who replaces around 3-7 years, it's a wash.

If you need to pull anything heavy, ignore the F-150 and step up to a real truck. F-250 or bigger. ;)
 
Rbridges the clunk is a lack of grease in the driveshaft splines.

If you have the two piece driveshaft, take it to a driveline shop. I'm pretty sure they can install a grease zerk that you can hit without taking anything apart.

I have the one peice, cant install a zerk but it's easier to manually do the job. 15 mins in the driveway.
 
Rbridges the clunk is a lack of grease in the driveshaft splines.

If you have the two piece driveshaft, take it to a driveline shop. I'm pretty sure they can install a grease zerk that you can hit without taking anything apart.

I have the one peice, cant install a zerk but it's easier to manually do the job. 15 mins in the driveway.

thanks for that. :thumbsup:
 
I have a 2012 F-150 4x4 with 3.73 gears and the 5.0 v8. Truck is nearing 30,000 miles.. probably 1/3 of which are towing 1500-5000# depending on trailer. I have not had any problems, only thing I've done to it yet is change the oil.

Highway MPG is in the 18-21 range depending on how you drive it. I imagine a higher gear would do better. City is closer to 15-17.

Towing milage isn't straightforward. As bad as 10 or less with the high drag horse trailer on the interstate doing 65+. As good as 17-18 with a small utility trailer doing 55.

I don't really regret getting the 5.0 over the ecoboost. Truck does fine.
 
Both pull fine for a half-ton.

The ecoboost is actually pretty crazy for a half ton. The videos ford posts of it out-pulling the competition are very real. I pulled my 7000lb 3/4 ton suburban on a 2000lb tandem axle car trailer from Raleigh to Bristol, TN. I was doing 65 up the mountain, passing struggling 18wheelers. 13.5 mpg getting there, 15.5 on the way home with an empty trailer.
 
The ecoboost is actually pretty crazy for a half ton. The videos ford posts of it out-pulling the competition are very real. I pulled my 7000lb 3/4 ton suburban on a 2000lb tandem axle car trailer from Raleigh to Bristol, TN. I was doing 65 up the mountain, passing struggling 18wheelers. 13.5 mpg getting there, 15.5 on the way home with an empty trailer.


Yep 9000 lbs would be what I call "fine for a half ton" ... heh.

The 6 is working the turbo pretty hard up here at altitude. More heat, etc.

A friend pulls a 10,500 lb fiver with his ecoboost 6 and he says it does fine (I don't give him too much crap for being technically over both his GVWR and GCVWR let alone over his rear axle rating, but he did add bags), but I'm not a big fan of exceeding multiple ratings at the same time.

His truck and his explaining to have to do to a court if he can't stop the thing -- but no doubt with the built in trailer braking system and discs all around, he can stop his better than I can stop mine, and I'm well within all ratings on a truck that's 10+ year older tech. My rear drums aren't anything to write home about, braking-wise. Any my ABS isn't automatically integrated with the trailer brakes.

I still paid half of what he did for his truck and 1/3 of a new diesel 3500 which is what I'd prefer if money were no object, pulling big trailers. So pick your poison and how much your wallet wants to whimper.
 
If you have to after engineer the truck, you are driving the wrong brand.
 
I've got a 2012 Ecoboost. I towed an enclosed trailer with my mazda pickup truck. It did pretty well even on uphill grades.

As far as gas mileage, it's been sitting at 16.7 mpg in mixed driving for the last few years. No real economy IMO vs. the 8 cylinder.

Engine has been awesome. I know there were early reports of issues. I think it may have been related to the intercooler, but mine has been flawless. The transmission on the other hand developed a "clunk." It turns out that the driveshaft can develop a little play. There was a service bulletin to address it but I think it's a bandaid. They dropped the driveshaft and added a different lube and seal. So far, it's much better but the tech didn't instill a lot of confidence.

Overall it's been a great truck. My neighbor bought a 2015 king ranch version, and it's a sweet looking ride.

Its a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) #12-07-13, you can google it. In essence the slip yoke binds because the grease used at assembly degrades. It calls for separating the driveshaft, cleaning all the old grease/gunk and applying new Teflon grease. We haven't had any comebacks after performing this TSB.
 
A friend pulls a 10,500 lb fiver with his ecoboost 6 and he says it does fine (I don't give him too much crap for being technically over both his GVWR and GCVWR let alone over his rear axle rating, but he did add bags), but I'm not a big fan of exceeding multiple ratings at the same time.

If he has the full tow package and 3.73's its rated to tow 11,300lbs
 
Its a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) #12-07-13, you can google it. In essence the slip yoke binds because the grease used at assembly degrades. It calls for separating the driveshaft, cleaning all the old grease/gunk and applying new Teflon grease. We haven't had any comebacks after performing this TSB.

My dealer charges $100 for this TSB.

Note if you have the clunk and you happen to have the one piece drive shaft the TSB does not apply and the dealer may or may not know what to do with it.

The lack of grease is still the problem. Chock the wheels, unbolt the 4 bolts holding the rear axle yoke flange, drop the driveshaft down then pull the slip yoke out of the transfer case. Grease the inside of the slip yoke with Lucas red n tacky #2 grease. Re-assemble.

My dealer said the blue ford grease slings out after a year or so and i'm hoping the lucas will last longer than that.

Dr. O - chevys have this same problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbMqyDbb0jE
 
Its a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) #12-07-13, you can google it. In essence the slip yoke binds because the grease used at assembly degrades. It calls for separating the driveshaft, cleaning all the old grease/gunk and applying new Teflon grease. We haven't had any comebacks after performing this TSB.

I remember the tech explaining that they used a different grease. He said the same thing about not having any comebacks, but it hadn't been that long. He kinda dodged around the answer when I asked him how long it should work, but in his defense, I'm sure no one really knows.

So far (8 months), so good.
 
My dealer charges $100 for this TSB.

Note if you have the clunk and you happen to have the one piece drive shaft the TSB does not apply and the dealer may or may not know what to do with it.

Because it could be several things and you have to check it.


The lack of grease is still the problem. Chock the wheels, unbolt the 4 bolts holding the rear axle yoke flange, drop the driveshaft down then pull the slip yoke out of the transfer case. Grease the inside of the slip yoke with Lucas red n tacky #2 grease. Re-assemble.

I don't know anything about the Lucas grease, but be careful, most types of grease will "stiffen" over time when exposed to the elements and although there is a boot over the slip yoke, it isn't fool proof.

My dealer said the blue ford grease slings out after a year or so and i'm hoping the lucas will last longer than that.

We have been performing this TSB for 3 years and haven't had a comeback yet. I will say that ANY grease will deteriorate over time.


Dr. O - chevys have this same problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbMqyDbb0jE

Didn't watch the video, but I don't have to. I have been in this business a lot of years and they ALL have their issues. So I agree with you.
 
Didn't watch the video, but I don't have to. I have been in this business a lot of years and they ALL have their issues. So I agree with you.

My comment about the grease slinging out is limited to the one piece driveshaft, not the two piece.
 
If he has the full tow package and 3.73's its rated to tow 11,300lbs


Good to know. Not sure I'd be comfortable with that much weight behind it, but it is what it is. The numbers keep going up.

And I'm a wimp and would prefer duals pulling a load that big anyway.
 
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