Whelen LED Beacon

[JGoodish]

I have an original Whelen rotating beacon on my 1977 Cherokee. It still rotates, but not reliably, so it appears time for replacement.

I have wingtip strobes powered by a relatively new Whelen power unit, which creates faint noise through the audio system. I'm somewhat nervous that using the CometFlash beacon with yet another strobe power supply risks creating even more noise.

I'm also considering the LED beacon (at almost twice the price of the strobe), but I'm curious about how these units perform, and especially whether they are worth the substantial premium over the strobe.



Thanks,
JKG

 

[bnt83]

I have an original Whelen rotating beacon on my 1977 Cherokee. It still rotates, but not reliably, so it appears time for replacement.

I have wingtip strobes powered by a relatively new Whelen power unit, which creates faint noise through the audio system. I'm somewhat nervous that using the CometFlash beacon with yet another strobe power supply risks creating even more noise.

I'm also considering the LED beacon (at almost twice the price of the strobe), but I'm curious about how these units perform, and especially whether they are worth the substantial premium over the strobe.



Thanks,
JKG

Never changed the rotating to LED so I can't say much. We did replace a flashing one with aeroflash unit and it too is noisy but I haven't tried to troubleshoot the noise yet.





There are TONS of troubleshooting articles for radio noise on the net, you may be able to fix your problem.




http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/instruments/4Why Tolerate Radio Noise.html

Strobe Lights As A Noise Source
Builders who experience radio interference from the operation of their strobe light system most likely have an installation problem and should not blame the strobes.
Here’s what you can do:

• 1. Install a reliable wingtip position/strobe light installation like Whelen’s A600-PG-PR installation kit. Be sure to follow the recommended installation instructions. Homemade installations may be somewhat less expensive but often fail to meet the regulation standards governing anti-collision lighting systems.
  2. Install your strobe light circuit breaker at the end of the electrical buss closest to the battery using a 14 or 16 gauge wire.
  3. Be sure to terminate the interconnecting cable shield to ground ONLY at one end or the other. Do not terminate both ends of the shield to ground. Usually the power supply end provides the quietest ground . . . but not always.
  4. Check to see that your radios have a good central ground point.

 

[JGoodish]

There are TONS of troubleshooting articles for radio noise on the net, you may be able to fix your problem.

Thanks. Yes, I've tried those suggestions and more (such as using recommended shielded wiring), and everything has mitigated the noise slightly, but nothing has eliminated. It is now very faint, but I'd rather not add to it with another strobe power pack unless there's a compelling reason to go that route over the LED beacon.

I'd rather not replace the beacon at all, but I'm not aware that the old Whelen rotating ones can be overhauled. If they can, that might be an option as well.


Thanks,
JKG

 

[bnt83]

Thanks. Yes, I've tried those suggestions and more (such as using recommended shielded wiring), and everything has mitigated the noise slightly, but nothing has eliminated. It is now very faint, but I'd rather not add to it with another strobe power pack unless there's a compelling reason to go that route over the LED beacon.

I'd rather not replace the beacon at all, but I'm not aware that the old Whelen rotating ones can be overhauled. If they can, that might be an option as well.


Thanks,
JKG

See if you can get a few quotes for repair of the old beacon, then decide I guess. Sounds like you reaaaaallllly dont want another strobe, which eliminates it.

OR find a working beacon on eBay

 

[murphey]

Take the beacon down, take it apart and clean the crud around the motor. You'll be surprised at the improvement. Try some contact cleaner around the connections.

 

[bnt83]

Take the beacon down, take it apart and clean the crud around the motor. You'll be surprised at the improvement.

With contact cleaner?


Can always get an eBay spare

 

[JGoodish]

With contact cleaner?


Can always get an eBay spare

The problem is that all of these beacons are old, and as far as I am aware, parts are no longer available. I'm sure that there are various ways to repair them, but I suspect that they are approaching the end of their useful life.

But $650 for a LED beacon... that's pretty steep.


JKG

 

[PilotAlan]

Do what they did on my Cherokee. Ditch the beacon, install a belly strobe (fix the noise, don't ignore it), gain 4-5 knots. The drag from the coffee-can-sized beacon is truly amazing.

 

[Ted]

Do what they did on my Cherokee. Ditch the beacon, install a belly strobe (fix the noise, don't ignore it), gain 4-5 knots. The drag from the coffee-can-sized beacon is truly amazing.

Curious - do you have pictures/part numbers of what you went from and to?

 

[CT Arrow]

I have an original Whelen rotating beacon on my 1977 Cherokee. It still rotates, but not reliably, so it appears time for replacement.

I have wingtip strobes powered by a relatively new Whelen power unit, which creates faint noise through the audio system. I'm somewhat nervous that using the CometFlash beacon with yet another strobe power supply risks creating even more noise.

I'm also considering the LED beacon (at almost twice the price of the strobe), but I'm curious about how these units perform, and especially whether they are worth the substantial premium over the strobe.



Thanks,
JKG

I have the whelen led beacon, split lens, red and white on the belly and it is intense! I also have the whelen led nav / strobes on the wingtips but luckily don't suffer from the dreaded strobe noise.

Just curious, have you tried running a ground wire from that strobe supply ground wire to a better, common ground buss in the panel? Also, is the strobe noise more noticeable when the engine is running or not running. Have you measured the input voltage at the strobe power supply. Of so, what is it? And finally, , if you have two radios, is the strobe noise just as loud on both radios?

I worked for whelen many moons ago in tech support.

 

[JGoodish]

I have the whelen led beacon, split lens, red and white on the belly and it is intense! I also have the whelen led nav / strobes on the wingtips but luckily don't suffer from the dreaded strobe noise.

Just curious, have you tried running a ground wire from that strobe supply ground wire to a better, common ground buss in the panel? Also, is the strobe noise more noticeable when the engine is running or not running. Have you measured the input voltage at the strobe power supply. Of so, what is it? And finally, , if you have two radios, is the strobe noise just as loud on both radios?

I worked for whelen many moons ago in tech support.

I replaced the original strobe power supply a few years ago, and the noise was reduced from that alone, but it does use a local ground. I had considered running the ground up to an aggregate point, but didn't want to tear the airplane apart. The noise is very, very faint, so it isn't at all intrusive.

Regarding the LED beacon, do you think that it is bright enough that it would be too distracting at night or in low visibility when mounted on the tail? I have considered placing it on the belly, but that's a bit more work (and therefore expense) than just dropping it in to the existing spot on the tail.

Basically, I'm trying to decide between the strobe drop-in replacement (for around $400) or the LED (for around $650).

Does moving the beacon to the belly and capping the tail opening really produce a material increase in speed?


Thanks,
JKG

 

[CT Arrow]

I replaced the original strobe power supply a few years ago, and the noise was reduced from that alone, but it does use a local ground. I had considered running the ground up to an aggregate point, but didn't want to tear the airplane apart. The noise is very, very faint, so it isn't at all intrusive.

Regarding the LED beacon, do you think that it is bright enough that it would be too distracting at night or in low visibility when mounted on the tail? I have considered placing it on the belly, but that's a bit more work (and therefore expense) than just dropping it in to the existing spot on the tail.

Basically, I'm trying to decide between the strobe drop-in replacement (for around $400) or the LED (for around $650).

Does moving the beacon to the belly and capping the tail opening really produce a material increase in speed?


Thanks,
JKG

Flying a T tail arrow does not allow my to have a tail mounted beacon so the next best solution was the belly. If you can afford the led route, it is by far a better way to go. Less current consumption, no noise and extremely bright. Low viz or night flying is actually easier with the led beacon as its just on / off / on and so fourth. The strobe is actually more of a nuisance when flying in those conditions.

You might want to wait for the sun n fun event in a few weeks. Most vendors offer additional discounts that might help with the beacon cost.

 

[Cmercado]

Go LED...... You wont be dissapointed....

 

[PilotAlan]

Curious - do you have pictures/part numbers of what you went from and to?

I'm out of town on travel.

My bird has a low profile Whelen belly strobe, and standard Whelen tip strobe/light combos.

 

[PilotAlan]

Does moving the beacon to the belly and capping the tail opening really produce a material increase in speed?

I'll say that the belly strobe is much smaller than the beacon (less than 1/4 the size, and combined with the tip strobes gives the 360 coverage that allows you to eliminate the beacon.

You can make your own assessment about the drag of a coffee can sized beacon in clean air at the top of the tail.

 

[Ted]

The 310 has a belly and taail beacons, but both are strobes. Not quite coffee can sized, but they are reasonably large and unsightly. While I doubt if there's a huge drag penalty from them relative to other parts of the plane, I do like the idea of making them more flush for improved aerodynamics and appearance. So I'd be curious to see if what you installed is similar to what we have now or even smaller.

 

[focal_plane]

I'm getting ready to replace a comet flash tail strobe (rotating beacon form factor) with an LED (2.6" dia). A lower profile fin cap will go with it. Motivation is primarily lower power.

 

[CT Arrow]

If there is enough interest, I can arrange a bulk buy of 10 or more units to secure the best possible price. I'll inquire about price and post an update. If you are interested, please post your info below.

http://www.whelen.com/_AVIATION/details_prod.php?&page_type=details_cat&head_id=3

 

[focal_plane]

They were $506 from knots2u.

http://www.shopknots2u.com/store.php?crn=423&rn=1059&action=show_detail

 

[JGoodish]

They were $506 from knots2u.

http://www.shopknots2u.com/store.php?crn=423&rn=1059&action=show_detail

That model won't work as a drop-in replacement for the 3.75" opening. The correct model in that case has an adapter mounted to the bottom, and the cheapest I've found it is around $620.


JKG

 

[Tony_Scarpelli]

I have an original Whelen rotating beacon on my 1977 Cherokee. It still rotates, but not reliably, so it appears time for replacement.

I have wingtip strobes powered by a relatively new Whelen power unit, which creates faint noise through the audio system. I'm somewhat nervous that using the CometFlash beacon with yet another strobe power supply risks creating even more noise.

I'm also considering the LED beacon (at almost twice the price of the strobe), but I'm curious about how these units perform, and especially whether they are worth the substantial premium over the strobe.



Thanks,
JKG

LED will draw much less from your electrical system. It would be awesome to have Complete LED lights on an airplane. If you ever had a electrical problem at night there will be little draw off the battery.

 

[Cmercado]

LED will draw much less from your electrical system. It would be awesome to have Complete LED lights on an airplane. If you ever had a electrical problem at night there will be little draw off the battery.

I changed all my lights to LED...I used one of the Aveo Engineering Nav/strobe/position units and the beacon is also from them. Wheelen LEDs for Taxi & Landing lights... Not the cheapest way to do it but a lot of advantages. Electrical draw is minimal... Your aircraft will be VERY visible to others, absolutely no electrical noise in the intercom and the most important.... Night landings with no lights will be over!!!!!! Ask me how I know it.........


BTW, they look freaking awesome!!!!!

 

[focal_plane]

That model won't work as a drop-in replacement for the 3.75" opening. The correct model in that case has an adapter mounted to the bottom, and the cheapest I've found it is around $620.


JKG

Agree, the 2.6" is the one I referenced. Just got the small fin and led tonight.

 

[Tom-D]

Agree, the 2.6" is the one I referenced. Just got the small fin and led tonight.

I pulled the rotating beacon, and replaced it with a blinker.

 

[CT Arrow]

I replaced the original strobe power supply a few years ago, and the noise was reduced from that alone, but it does use a local ground. I had considered running the ground up to an aggregate point, but didn't want to tear the airplane apart. The noise is very, very faint, so it isn't at all intrusive.

I would just add a ground wire from the power supply ground and run it through the cabin to the common ground point, even to the battery just to see if this has any affect.

Regarding the LED beacon, do you think that it is bright enough that it would be too distracting at night or in low visibility when mounted on the tail? I have considered placing it on the belly, but that's a bit more work (and therefore expense) than just dropping it in to the existing spot on the tail.

I used to own a 140 and had a strobe mounted on the tail. For visibilty, I would leave it on the tail.

Basically, I'm trying to decide between the strobe drop-in replacement (for around $400) or the LED (for around $650).

LED

Does moving the beacon to the belly and capping the tail opening really produce a material increase in speed?

I would think drag is drag but.....

 

[el con]

Go LED...... You wont be dissapointed....

I agree here. I've gone led on tail beacon,position lights and landing lights.
I highly recommend them,IMHO, no more surprise burnt out lights.
No power sup[plies to burn out
No noise.
No extra money in your wallet though :wink2:

 

[PilotAlan]

I would think drag is drag but.....

A belly strobe is fraction the size of a rotating beacon, about 1/4th the size or less.
Now if someone made a beacon 1/4 the size of the original......

 

[Daytonabch04]

I agree here. I've gone led on tail beacon,position lights and landing lights.
I highly recommend them,IMHO, no more surprise burnt out lights.
No power sup[plies to burn out
No noise.
No extra money in your wallet though :wink2:

Where's the pics??

 

[el con]

Where's the pics??

Pics?? These are all on my tired ol" Cherokee 180, kinda like putting perfume on a pig so to speak. wink2: But it's a beautiful sight in the dark as the "3" paint job doesn't show.
I'll be putting led's on the Onex I'm working on also.