What kind pf Paint

dogman

dogman

Pre-takeoff checklist
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dogman
I have a 1957 172 that we have done all but a rebuild on. New lyc. 180 conversion. New wings long range tanks, new horizontal stab. IFR Radios IFR GPS.

Ready for paint What kind do you suggest and what colors.
 
Imron still lasts the best. But watch out for that Cyanide based curing...lotsa ventilation!
 
dogman said:
I have a 1957 172 that we have done all but a rebuild on. New lyc. 180 conversion. New wings long range tanks, new horizontal stab. IFR Radios IFR GPS.

Ready for paint What kind do you suggest and what colors.
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I like the classic styles. Do you have access to information regarding the airplane's original colors and paint scheme? A good paint shop can match it exactly.
 
Hay dogman

Don't forget to post the before and after pictures. Nothing more sexy then a newly painted aircraft. Especially a 1950's Cessna
 
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My friends in the auto industry say that Imron was a great paint in its day, but that Akzo Nobel's Sikkens is a much longer lasting modern polyurethane acrylic.

Don't know if anyone is painting planes with it.
 
larrysb said:
My friends in the auto industry say that Imron was a great paint in its day, but that Akzo Nobel's Sikkens is a much longer lasting modern polyurethane acrylic.

Don't know if anyone is painting planes with it.
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Hmmn. Let me check-it-out....
 
Where is the best place to buy the primer and paint??

Thank you for all the help You people are Great.

Dogman
 
dogman said:
I have a 1957 172 that we have done all but a rebuild on. New lyc. 180 conversion. New wings long range tanks, new horizontal stab. IFR Radios IFR GPS.

Ready for paint What kind do you suggest and what colors.
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Alumi Grip from US Paints, the makers of Awl Grip. Colors and scheme, well, that's up to you, but I liked the old 50s paint schemes.
 
Just polish it
 
bbchien said:
But watch out for that Cyanide based curing...lotsa ventilation!
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"Lotsa ventilation" is not adequate for spraying isocyanate catalyst paints. If you spray isocyanate catalyst paints you must use a forced fresh air feed, full face mask. Anything less is akin to playing Russian roulette with a fully loaded revolver.

Ed Guthrie
 
The linear polyurethanes like Imron and Sterling hold up better than the acrylics, but acrylic can be repaired easier (ask any sailboat racer with an acrylic paint job). Sterling has the highest and longest lasting sheen and the ability to be rolled and tipped if you choose to do it yourself. This method yields a very nice result. The marine industry uses the same paints on all high end yachts. Aircraft are usually sprayed but good results with sterling can be obtained if you're willing to accept a slightly less than perfect result (five foot test as opposed to the one foot test). Also, the majority of prep work can be performed by a patient owner.
 
Actully the shop is going to paint for me but is letting me find the paint and try to find the best price. Also they are going to paint it in pieces for the wings are off and the tail is off. They felt like we would get a better job by paint in this manner. Paint and then assemble. Its been one heck of a project but the end is getting near.

Got any suggestions where to shop for best deals??
 
They say they can handle any of the good products.

I believe they can these people are very meticulous.

Does any one know the best place to purchase the paint??
 
NC19143 said:
Just polish it
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Problem is with the new border security, our cheap Mexican workforce isn't what it once was. I do like a polished plane though. I just finished compounding and waxing a 58' Sunseeker Predator that I have to leave for New York with tommorrow. I've had enough polishing for just now, buffers...:no:
 
dogman said:
.....
Does any one know the best place to purchase the paint??
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Maybe I am missing something here but doesn't the shop usually take care of buying the paint?
 
Carol said:
Maybe I am missing something here but doesn't the shop usually take care of buying the paint?
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Depends on what kind of customer you are. If I tell you that the paint, hardener, thinner... to paint your plane is going to cast $1800, and you go:eek: :eek: :eek: :no: , then I go, "Ok, you supply the paint and I'll just charge you $5000 to strip prep, shoot and reassemble" and you go:eek: :eek: :eek: :no: , then I tell you, look, you can bring me a stripped and dissassembled and prepped for shooting plane. Bring it on a Friday, and my guys will give it a final wiped down, and I'll put a scratch coat down Fri night and paint her nice Saturday. You bring charcoal, a cooler of beverages and some steaks to throw on the grill Sat afternoon, and you can take away your plane and parts to reassemble for $250. If you don't want to pay the $250, just bring the drinks and the steaks and I'll show you how to use my paint rig and you can have at it. I watched all sorts of interesting deals go down in some shops.:dance:
 
Henning said:
..... I watched all sorts of interesting deals go down in some shops.:dance:
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Ah, yep. I would imagine the results were pretty "interesting" too ;)
 
Carol said:
Ah, yep. I would imagine the results were pretty "interesting" too ;)
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You betcha. Like most things, you get what you pay for. Most people have no clue of the work that goes into a good paint job.
 
cedwardsmd said:
The linear polyurethanes like Imron and Sterling hold up better than the acrylics, but acrylic can be repaired easier (ask any sailboat racer with an acrylic paint job). Sterling has the highest and longest lasting sheen and the ability to be rolled and tipped if you choose to do it yourself. This method yields a very nice result. The marine industry uses the same paints on all high end yachts. Aircraft are usually sprayed but good results with sterling can be obtained if you're willing to accept a slightly less than perfect result (five foot test as opposed to the one foot test). Also, the majority of prep work can be performed by a patient owner.
Click to expand...

Imron is not a Linear Polyurethane. AwlGrip &AlumiGrip are LP (as is Sterling) and can be rolled and tipped as well.
 
Ed Guthrie said:
"Lotsa ventilation" is not adequate for spraying isocyanate catalyst paints. If you spray isocyanate catalyst paints you must use a forced fresh air feed, full face mask. Anything less is akin to playing Russian roulette with a fully loaded revolver.

Ed Guthrie
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It's very difficult to find anyone using IMRON in commercial paint shops. Usually, they will do the trim in IMRON, but that's about it. I haven't seen any respirators in the few paint shops that I visited that apply IMRON on the trim, but that doesn't mean they shouldn't be wearing the proper respirator. They usually roll their eyes when you ask that the entire plane be painted in IMRON.
 
Or somtimes it is like this with a shop.

You have spent so damn much money here if you want to try and save your self a little on the paint materials that is great. And by the way if you would bring the beer that would be great.

Great shop and now I will not do the painting just will help there guy strip and prep.
 
Henning said:
Imron is not a Linear Polyurethane. AwlGrip &AlumiGrip are LP (as is Sterling) and can be rolled and tipped as well.
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Excuse my ignorance, what is tipping, a city in China?????
 
Keith Lane said:
Excuse my ignorance, what is tipping, a city in China?????
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Rolling and tipping is a technique where the paint is applied with an appropriate roller and the dragged with the tip of a brush to smooth it down. With Awl Grip or Sterling LP I can make it look sprayed on rolling and tipping. It's the best technique when doing spot work because of no overspray and masking.
 
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