T-Mobile new "Narrowband" IoT plan...

denverpilot

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DenverPilot
Looks like the perfect plan to hack together remote control devices for the hangar or otherwise, for $6 a year. Make the control simple/stupid using a byte or half a byte, and limit the number of packets to 10 an hour... and 12 MB total per year.

https://newsroom.t-mobile.com/news-and-blogs/narrowband-iot.htm

Assumes one's hangar or IoT toys are in T-Mobile's coverage area, of course... which nearly nothing I own really is... but cool if they are. Cheap as chips, as they say... and reasonably secure... no need for a fat encryption protocol on top of the IoT protocol, whatever data you're sending.

Yeah, some people have cellular RF service monitors and SDRs they're listening to celluar with, but seeing a byte go by a maximum of ten times in an hour, probably isn't going to tell anybody much if you're just toggling a bit.
 
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Im looking into building my own "switch box" with a raspberry pi. if I can get reception in the hangar, this would be perfect!
 
I've been pretty interested in raspberry pi utility when it comes to planes. Im making a flight conditions board with LEDS that light up based on the current METAR for the airport.
 
I've been pretty interested in raspberry pi utility when it comes to planes. Im making a flight conditions board with LEDS that light up based on the current METAR for the airport.
I saw that project and now I want to build one... a really BIG one... like a whole wall... and teach it to not just do conditions but give more data like wind speed, temps... could get completely out of hand, kinda like those guys that built massive toy train layouts. :)

I haven't gotten wife-approval for the whole wall... yet... :)
 
I saw that project and now I want to build one... a really BIG one... like a whole wall... and teach it to not just do conditions but give more data like wind speed, temps... could get completely out of hand, kinda like those guys that built massive toy train layouts. :)

I haven't gotten wife-approval for the whole wall... yet... :)

Im starting with the NY sectional. I wanted to make each LED a button that could display the current METAR. Maybe not as big as an entire wall, though! My problem is that Im not a programmer. Im using code that was provided by the guy who first made it... I only know enough to tweak it to my area.
 
Im starting with the NY sectional. I wanted to make each LED a button that could display the current METAR. Maybe not as big as an entire wall, though! My problem is that Im not a programmer. Im using code that was provided by the guy who first made it... I only know enough to tweak it to my area.
The ultimate problem is that a big TV with HDMI still is more practical... hahaha... but who cares about practicality when one can build a wall of blinky lights! :)
 
Im starting with the NY sectional. I wanted to make each LED a button that could display the current METAR. Maybe not as big as an entire wall, though! My problem is that Im not a programmer. Im using code that was provided by the guy who first made it... I only know enough to tweak it to my area.

Can someone post a link to the project that was previously posted?
 
Hmm, I already exceed that stealing, er, borrowing wifi from the FBO to keep temp/humidity monitoing working(12 reports per hour but with a full 3 way handshake, etc). That's going to require some pretty decent coding.

Currently my borrowing WiFi repeater seems to work about 90% of the time, so I have a new Yagi on-order to see if I can get more consistent access as it's handy for both my temp monitoring and WiFi for my iPad without needing my hotspot.
 
I saw that project and now I want to build one... a really BIG one... like a whole wall... and teach it to not just do conditions but give more data like wind speed, temps... could get completely out of hand, kinda like those guys that built massive toy train layouts. :)

I haven't gotten wife-approval for the whole wall... yet... :)
Just remember Nate, it's better to ask forgiveness than permission... (says the guy who's twice divorced).
 
Hmmm. Beats the $20/mo I'm paying for my long range UGV, but I do get unlimited data.

That LED sectional sounds awesome. The pi on my UGV already does HTML scraping for the radio RSSI. It wouldn't take much to add aviation weather. I think I will make one.
 

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The ultimate problem is that a big TV with HDMI still is more practical... hahaha... but who cares about practicality when one can build a wall of blinky lights! :)

I was thinking it would be fun to try and do it with an X-Y mirror setup and lasers that paint colored dots where needed. Then I looked at one of those X-Y mirrors and saw it was $3000.... Maybe a DLP projector using sectionals as the screen maybe printing them slightly lighter for better contrast, then you could also add something like a local ADS-B or a Flight Radar view. If only I had time and money.
 
Just wanted to mention, never underestimate how far you can 'borrow' internet from with a $30 Yagi antenna. Admittedly, my hangar faces the FBO and they have a WiFi access point outside. but I'm over 1000 feet from the other access point and the antenna is inside the metal hangar.IMG_20180110_175128s.jpg
 
Just wanted to mention, never underestimate how far you can 'borrow' internet from with a $30 Yagi antenna. Admittedly, my hangar faces the FBO and they have a WiFi access point outside. but I'm over 1000 feet from the other access point and the antenna is inside the metal hangar.View attachment 59209

Is that $30 for the new improved Yagi or the old one? I am 350 feet from a wireless router inside an insulated metal building, think I have a shot with an antenna inside my metal hangar?
 
Is that $30 for the new improved Yagi or the old one? I am 350 feet from a wireless router inside an insulated metal building, think I have a shot with an antenna inside my metal hangar?
You should be able to get a new one from the various outlets that sell products made in Asia for $30. I paid less than $30 for a 900 MHz yagi a couple of months ago.
 
Is that $30 for the new improved Yagi or the old one? I am 350 feet from a wireless router inside an insulated metal building, think I have a shot with an antenna inside my metal hangar?

You probably have a shot, if you can see any signal outside on your phone/laptop/tablet even if you can't connect then you can probably make it work.

My system:
Raspberry Pi Zero, temp/humidity sensor, case and power supply to re-broadcast wireless and report temperatures.
Alfa Wireless USB Adapter to receive the FBO wireless: https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NHA-Wireless-USB-Adaptor/dp/B004Y6MIXS
Initially I used its included antenna, and it sort of worked.
Then I switched to this Omnidirectional antenna, which got me up to working 90% of the time: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039ORBLK

Now I'm using this Yagi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Z4I7WQ and cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EREM6C

If you don't want to roll your own access point/repeater with a pi then you probably need to look at a bridge box that will take an external antenna and then a local access point to re-broadcast. I don't have any good suggestions for that right now.
 
Is that $30 for the new improved Yagi or the old one? I am 350 feet from a wireless router inside an insulated metal building, think I have a shot with an antenna inside my metal hangar?

Gain is gain, mostly. If you’re getting a signal in there now, and you’re on the edge, capturing a little more, or talking back a little better, should work.

Where that falls apart is when there’s strong interfering signals. You’re also raising those with more antenna (or overall system) gain. Example is a high gain vertical — you’ll just suck in more crap along with your desired signal. But a high gain yagi, maybe you can put the offending interference in one of the nulls of the antenna pattern, as one example.

Have you characterized the problem direction and reason for your drops? Which way is the signal failing and is it due to lack of signal or being wiped out by other nearby signals at one end or the other? Obviously these time sharing systems are supposed to play nice, but they often suffer from the “hidden node” problem.

Example: You’re using 2.4 GHz and over at the FBO building seven other access points can be heard by the AP you’re talking to. We will say for simplicity that the people setting those up understand on 802.11b that there’s only three non-overlapping channels and all seven APs being heard are on channels 1, 6, and 11. (Intermediate channels in 802.11b are just stupid. But anyway...)

Let’s say your link is on channel 1 and there’s two other APs and their clients also on channel 1 also being heard at the AP over at the FBO.

Your signal may be plenty strong, as may theirs over there, and those APs may not hear your hangar end of your link. Therefore they don’t know when to “be quiet” when your hangar end is transmitting. So collisions happen constantly and everything constantly re-tries per the timing rules of 802.11b. If it happens too much, your link drops and has to be constantly re-established.

Just one of many examples. 2.4 GHz also suffers from even sillier stuff like leaky microwave ovens. LOL.

To REALLY know if your gain antenna will fix the problem, you have to know what the problem is first. And that means a site survey with something that can listen to the local mess and analyze it. Most analyzers can analyze data but can’t see raw noise, or vice-versa.

But the reality is... for $30, nobody bothers characterizing it because someone will slap up another AP in the area and add 100 clients to it tomorrow anyway. You just slap the $30 antenna up, and see if it works. And often you become THEIR new problem, so they go get a bigger antenna... and the problem continues.

If you CAN make a hop in 5 GHz, it’s usually better. Because you at least get the channel to yourself and it’s often quieter, overall. Harder to make the hop but lots less legitimate and environmental interference usually. 2.4 is often a massive wasteland of noise and interference in cities these days. Just depends on what’s around. The protocols do amazingly well considering the mess they operate in nowadays.
 
Let’s say your link is on channel 1 and there’s two other APs and their clients also on channel 1 also being heard at the AP over at the FBO.

And thanks for reminding me to double check what channel my local broadcast was on(the Pi doesn't do 5GHz). The city appears to have 2 access points one on 11 that I can hit and 1 inside the building on 6, mine was on 6 also not that it much mattered at 1500 feet, but I did move it to 1.

It's amazing how quiet the spectrum is out here, even my house only sometimes sees 1 other access point. The airport is totally quiet unless I pointed the Yagi across the street and saw a few of the houses over there, luckily not in the LOS for the FBO.
 
And thanks for reminding me to double check what channel my local broadcast was on(the Pi doesn't do 5GHz). The city appears to have 2 access points one on 11 that I can hit and 1 inside the building on 6, mine was on 6 also not that it much mattered at 1500 feet, but I did move it to 1.

It's amazing how quiet the spectrum is out here, even my house only sometimes sees 1 other access point. The airport is totally quiet unless I pointed the Yagi across the street and saw a few of the houses over there, luckily not in the LOS for the FBO.

Oh if you’re using the built in WiFi on the Pi Zero W or if there’s a built in on another Pi model (?), just slapping a different WiFi device on its USB will make it tons better. I haven’t had great luck with the on board stuff for distance.

But I think you’re saying something else.
 
Oh if you’re using the built in WiFi on the Pi Zero W or if there’s a built in on another Pi model (?), just slapping a different WiFi device on its USB will make it tons better. I haven’t had great luck with the on board stuff for distance.

But I think you’re saying something else.

The on-board is the access point for the hangar, so, 30 foot range needed. Perfect for that since I really don't want to blast out a signal, but still don't want to raise the noise floor for the FBO so will avoid their channels when possible. The long distance link is an Alfa high power USB unit.
 
The on-board is the access point for the hangar, so, 30 foot range needed. Perfect for that since I really don't want to blast out a signal, but still don't want to raise the noise floor for the FBO so will avoid their channels when possible. The long distance link is an Alfa high power USB unit.

Ahhh. I see. Cool.
 
Thanks folks. Pi2 left over from my first Stratux build, looks like I have a mad science project to research after a couple of airplane projects.
 
I finally got around to finishing my Rpi project. I’m on my way to bring it over to Hampton Airfield. I hope they like it! No one knows what I’ve been working on.

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