Stuck Valve

So we're on to the diagnostics and corrective action portion of this story. Thus I'll start a new, fresh thread that will both cover that chapter of the story and that should also please PeeGee and KA550 since we all know how much affection they have for multiple threads on the same or similar topics! ;)
 
Someone here used to have the tagline:

Sent from my brain using my fingers.

I thought it was hilarious... :)
 
timwinters said:
So we're on to the diagnostics and corrective action portion of this story. Thus I'll start a new, fresh thread that will both cover that chapter of the story and that should also please PeeGee and KA550 since we all know how much affection they have for multiple threads on the same or similar topics! ;)
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Label it 'stuck valve remediation' or something like that so I can find it.

thx,
 
timwinters said:
So we're on to the diagnostics and corrective action portion of this story. Thus I'll start a new, fresh thread that will both cover that chapter of the story and that should also please PeeGee and KA550 since we all know how much affection they have for multiple threads on the same or similar topics! ;)
Click to expand...

Were in #86 now. Multiple posts would make it easier to follow. :D:yes: but KA550 and PeeGee will be :mad2:
 
FastEddieB said:
That's how a mechanic on Long Island fixed the valve that stuck on the O-360 in my Tiger.

Had run rough on startup on a cold December morning in CT. Chalked it up to a FL plane not being used to cold temps.

Over Long Island Sound at 6,000' it began shaking and "backfiring" like crazy. Declared an emergency and circled down over a Long Island airport and landed.

Found this:

12410663983_b239e8e71b_o.jpg


In short, if there's any sign of a valve sticking the Most Conservative Action would be to get it fixed ASAP. It could lead to much larger problems in short order - or even injury or death depending on when and where it finally seized.

Anyway, not to be taken lightly or shrugged off.
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Aaarrggg! Also looks like you need some new baffle seals. :yesnod:
 
timwinters said:
Oh, it's a sticking valve.

My first suspect is the auto gas I burn (typical blend is 75% MoGas, 25% 100LL) We had to overhaul one cylinder a couple of years ago due to a worn valve guide, leaky valve, as you describe and I was amazed at the amount of auto gas varnish that was built up on all the various components. That can't be good for keeping valves unstuck.
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If the valve has any leak, you should see the beginnings of a burn on the face. Have the cylinders boroscoped through the plugs.
 
tmyers said:
Or maybe it is because both of us are successful, extremely intelligent and darn good looking. Ah hell it's probably just the name.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
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I've seen you both.... 2 out of 3 ain't bad...! :rofl:
 
timwinters said:
I'm having a hard time finding a all inclusive diagnostic chart that lists different metals and possible sources. If someone has one, I'd love to see it!
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Tim, not sure where I got these, they might have come off of various oil analysis spreadsheets I've copied from forum folks over the years so they could be complete crap! :)

Aluminum (Al): Thrust washers, bearings and pistons are made of this metal. High readings can be from piston skirt scuffing, piston pin plugs, excessive ring groove wear, bearings, and broken thrust washers, etc.

Boron, Magnesium, Calcium, Barium, Phosphorous, and Zinc: These metals are normally from the lubricating oil additive package. They involve detergents, dispersants, extreme-pressure additives, etc.

Chromium (CR): Normally associated with piston rings (replacement cylinders). High levels can be caused by dirt coming through the air intake or broken rings.

Copper (CU), Tin: These metals are normally from bearings or bushings and valve guides. Oil coolers also can contribute to copper readings along with some oil additives. In a new engine these results will normally be high during break-in, but will decline in a few hundred hours.

Iron (Fe): This can come from many places in the engine such as liners, camshafts, crankshaft, valve train, timing gears, etc.

Lead (Pb): se of regular gasoline will cause very high test results. Also associated with bearing wear, but fuel source (leaded gasoline blow-by) and sampling contamination (use of galvanized containers for sampling) are critical in interpreting this metal.

Silicon (Si):High readings generally indicate dirt or fine sand contamination from a leaking air intake system. This would act as an abrasive, causing excessive wear. Silicon is also used as a anti-foam agent in some oils. more on silicon

Sodium (Na): High readings of this metal normally are associated with a coolant leak, but can be from an oil additive package.

Tin: Bearings, bronze parts (with copper), anti-wear coatings

Molybdenum: Traces of anti-wear coatings, some cylinder types

Nickel: Valve guides

Manganese: Grease additive

Edit:
If you go here on Blackstone's site, click on aircraft report, hover over the metals and it'll give you an idea
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php
 
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timwinters said:
Someone here used to have the tagline:



Sent from my brain using my fingers.



I thought it was hilarious... :)
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The Tapatalk one should say, "Sent from a device the user hasn't bothered to look in the settings on and turn this stupid tag line off yet..." ;)
 
denverpilot said:
The Tapatalk one should say, "Sent from a device the user hasn't bothered to look in the settings on and turn this stupid tag line off yet..." ;)
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Preach it. I wish folks would learn that thing in their hand.(sorry for the thread hijack)
 
are you talkin' to me? are you talkin' TO ME? ARE YOU? ;)

(insert green text if you so desire)

If so...I might do that test if I was flying a lycoming!
 
timwinters said:
are you talkin' to me? are you talkin' TO ME? ARE YOU? ;)

(insert green text if you so desire)

If so...I might do that test if I was flying a lycoming!
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well gee....that Grumman thingy doesn't have a Lycoming? :yikes:

nevah mind....I'm late to the party and gots the wrong engine. :mad2:
 
docmirror said:
Preach it. I wish folks would learn that thing in their hand.(sorry for the thread hijack)
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Seen on bathroom wall...
"What are you looking up here for? The joke is in your hand..."



:lol:
 
Checkout_my_Six said:
Didn't Henning tell ya bout the Lycoming valve stem wobble test?:yikes:

I'd do that on each valve to determine which valve guides are worn past an acceptable level.

wpid-CIMG1584-2012-10-29-16-18.jpg
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When the valve is stuck, it has zero wobble.

If he removes the cylinder cleans the guide, then cleans the valve stem, it will exceed the wobble limits.

Now what do you do? can't put it back together that way.
 
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