Starter Failure

Soldier64

Pre-takeoff checklist
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Fort Rucker, AL
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Bill H.
Good morning, POA. I have a 1975 PA28R-200 that the starter decided to go out on and leave me stranded in Oklahoma. I have already left the plane there and drove home.

My question to you all is what starter should I have them put on the airplane? I have read some good and bad things but I was leaning toward the Sky-Tec 149-NL.

What say you?
 
I say you have chosen a good one to lean towards.

Yup. It's the best.

But they should first make sure that it really is the starter. What was the failure mode? Mechanical or electrical? Starters often fail because the master and/or starter contactor contacts are oxidized, making enough resistance that the cranking voltage drops enormously with high current flow. And contactors are a lot cheaper, and easier to replace, than starters. A simple voltage drop measurement across the big terminals will identify a bad contactor.
 
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I bought a SkyTec for my 180, same make and model you reference. It's WAY better than the bendix POS I had in there before.

I went the route Dan suggested and did an overhaul on the Bendix and replaced the battery, still no go.
 
Yup. It's the best.

But they should first make sure that it really is the starter. What was the failure mode? Mechanical or electrical? Starters often fail because the master and/or starter contactor contacts are oxidized, making enough resistance that the cranking voltage drops enormously with high current flow. And contactors are a lot cheaper, and easier to replace, than starters. A simple voltage drop measurement across the big terminals will identify a bad contactor.

I can tell you what happened, but I am 800 miles from the airplane so I can't do much more than that.

When I turned the key the starter engaged. On the compression stroke it slowed down slightly and then the prop went the opposite direction of rotation like it had been let free. Not a kickback style reverse or anything. I engaged the started again and nothing happened. No noise from the starter at all. When I checked the started the throw our bearing was engaged with the flywheel but was free spinning and sort of floating. My only thought was that the shaft broke. I could be wrong though.
 
I can tell you what happened, but I am 800 miles from the airplane so I can't do much more than that.

When I turned the key the starter engaged. On the compression stroke it slowed down slightly and then the prop went the opposite direction of rotation like it had been let free. Not a kickback style reverse or anything. I engaged the started again and nothing happened. No noise from the starter at all. When I checked the started the throw our bearing was engaged with the flywheel but was free spinning and sort of floating. My only thought was that the shaft broke. I could be wrong though.

The starter gear stays extended and won't retract until it goes over a certain RPM (that you normally get to when the engine starts). Its probably too little too late now, but did you check the starter circuit breaker and/or fuse?
 
The starter gear stays extended and won't retract until it goes over a certain RPM (that you normally get to when the engine starts). Its probably too little too late now, but did you check the starter circuit breaker and/or fuse?

I did check everything and the gear was basically hanging out there. I was unfortunately short on time and had to get on the road. Also small airport and no one was there.
 
I can tell you what happened, but I am 800 miles from the airplane so I can't do much more than that.

When I turned the key the starter engaged. On the compression stroke it slowed down slightly and then the prop went the opposite direction of rotation like it had been let free. Not a kickback style reverse or anything. I engaged the started again and nothing happened. No noise from the starter at all. When I checked the started the throw our bearing was engaged with the flywheel but was free spinning and sort of floating. My only thought was that the shaft broke. I could be wrong though.

No starter contactor clunk or anything? Might have a failed ignition switch. The ACS switches have an AD on them due to starter contacts burning out inside them. 93-05-06: http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_G...B8ABD56539B4684886256A3E00759DBF?OpenDocument
 
Was there no person there willing to hand-prop your engine so you could fly home?

-Skip
 
I can tell you what happened, but I am 800 miles from the airplane so I can't do much more than that.

When I turned the key the starter engaged. On the compression stroke it slowed down slightly and then the prop went the opposite direction of rotation like it had been let free. Not a kickback style reverse or anything. I engaged the started again and nothing happened. No noise from the starter at all. When I checked the started the throw our bearing was engaged with the flywheel but was free spinning and sort of floating. My only thought was that the shaft broke. I could be wrong though.

Sounds like the same failure my 29 year old starter had on my Archer. The solution was a new Sky Tec that was some 5 years ago and have never regretted the decision.
 
My prestolite did that. Went with a B&C Starter. My understanding is the B&C starter has real bearings in it.
 
Sky-Tec good! Is what we use.
I would tell you how good but i never brag on airplane parts,,,ever. :no: :D
 
I read reports by guys with the Skytec XLT series that are unhappy. My new motor will have the HT series. I have no Skytec experience but the pireps on the HT have been good. My last Cub had a B&C and that one was perfect.
 
The NL series gets good reviews in the RV community. Mine has performed well since it replaced the old Prestolite a couple of years ago.
 
Sorry for the delay in response. Yes, the field was completely empty. We were the only plane on the ramp as well. The closest A&P has to drive from an airport 40 miles away to go fix the thing. I bought the 149-NL last night to get shipped over to them. I'll let you all know what I think of it when I get the airplane.

Thanks for all the help!
 
Didn't he say the field was deserted?

Not a 2 person job.. just tie the tail down.


That brings up a question. How to prime a fuel injected plane for hand propping. My guess for a cold start.. prime as usual, leave the mixture rich and cut the fuel pump off. Flip through 2-3 times to pull fuel into the cylinders with the ignition off. Then turn on the mags and prop it.
 
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Sorry for the delay in response. Yes, the field was completely empty. We were the only plane on the ramp as well. The closest A&P has to drive from an airport 40 miles away to go fix the thing. I bought the 149-NL last night to get shipped over to them. I'll let you all know what I think of it when I get the airplane.

Thanks for all the help!

What airport? Anywhere near OKC?
 
Not a 2 person job.. just tie the tail down.


That brings up a question. How to prime a fuel injected plane for hand propping. My guess for a cold start.. prime as usual, leave the mixture rich and cut the fuel pump off. Flip through 2-3 times to pull fuel into the cylinders with the ignition off. Then turn on the mags and prop it.

You know, I thought about it, but having never done it I wasn't sure how it would work out. It is on my list of things to learn how to do when I get the plane back.

What airport? Anywhere near OKC?
Its at the Henryetta airport F10.
 
You know, I thought about it, but having never done it I wasn't sure how it would work out. It is on my list of things to learn how to do when I get the plane back.

Good call. Handpropping accident rates are much higher for those in your particular situation than for those who do it every time they fly.
 
Not a 2 person job.. just tie the tail down.





That brings up a question. How to prime a fuel injected plane for hand propping. My guess for a cold start.. prime as usual, leave the mixture rich and cut the fuel pump off. Flip through 2-3 times to pull fuel into the cylinders with the ignition off. Then turn on the mags and prop it.


Fuel injected...directly into cylinders. No need to flip through at all. The fuel is atomized by the injector.

I had an IO-360C1C on my Starduster Too. I don't think I would have wanted to try propping it and I've propped airplanes hundreds of times, including many radials. I know I wouldn't want to try propping one on a trike.


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