Spark Plug Hole Stripped *Removing* a Spark Plug???

No one has mentioned it, but don't forget to put anti-seize on the new plug. Galvanic corrosion is your enemy, good antiseize will help to mitigate some of its effects.

I actually know a guy who routinely installs inserts in aluminum heads just to reduce the galvanic corrosion. I think that's a bit extreme when you can get a lifetime supply of dielectric grease for ~$6.00; but hey, to each his own.

It does make me wonder, however, if I should pay a mechanic to change the spark plugs on my vehicles when they're due so if there are any problems, they're someone else's headache. I've never once paid someone to change a spark plug. But with 100,000-mile spark plug change intervals on newer cars, it might be worth considering. Unless they come from the factory with inserts or some other corrosion mitigation, I imagine they could be stuck in there pretty tightly by the time they're due.

As for the snow blower, I bought an E3 spark plug this time. It was the only one Tractor Supply had that wasn't Champion (with whose plugs I've been less-than-satisfied over the years). The local reviews are mixed, but they seem mixed along engine types (great for small engines, not so much for vehicle engines). I frankly doubt there will be any difference. I usually use Bosch, Denso, or NGK; but I was lucky to find the plug I needed locally from any manufacturer.

I never thought it would be so hard to find a frigging spark plug. Had I known, I would have ordered it from Amazon.

The snow blower actually calls for a "Torch" plug, which I never heard of before, and which apparently no one sells in stores -- at least none of the ones I checked. They must be good plugs. I mean, it's lasted four or five years and still worked (albeit a bit roughly) when I removed it. So I have no complaints about Torch plugs. I don't even blame them for the plug seizing. That was my fault. I should have changed it every year like the manual says. I just wish someone (the place where I bought the machine, for example) sold them locally. Lesson learned: Always have a spare plug for the snow blower on hand. The next Amazon order I place will include a line item for the Torch plug or its NGK, Denso, or Bosch equivalent.

Another lesson learned is to never violate my rule of not working on seasonal equipment during the season when it's needed. But seriously, it was a spark plug, not an overhaul. I've changed hundreds of them. I never imagined anything like this could happen. I always thought people who claimed the plug stripped on the way out were lying. Now I know better.

Oh well. At least I have an opportunity to use a Helicoil. We learned about them in school back in the 1970's, but I don't believe I ever actually installed one. Maybe I did in school, but certainly not since. It's another one of those times when I thank God that I went to a vocational high school. I've probably saved tens of thousands of dollars in repair costs since then by being able to fix most things myself.

Rich
 
No one has mentioned it, but don't forget to put anti-seize on the new plug. Galvanic corrosion is your enemy, good antiseize will help to mitigate some of its effects.

Post #23.
 
Mission accomplished. After some initial sputtering and backfiring, probably due to the solvent and whatever shards or filings managed to remain in the head and get caught up in the exhaust valve, the snow blower now starts on one gentle pull. It also runs a lot better with the new plug. How much of that is because it's new versus that it's an E3 plug, I can't say. But it's running great.

I used a combination of the methods suggested to keep as much metal out of the cylinder as possible:

  • Positive air pressure in the cylinder.
  • Grease on the tap.
  • Cleaned the threads with electrical contact cleaner and an infant-sized toothbrush. (The infant won't be happy about that.)
  • Turned it over a few times with the electric starter with the plug hole empty.
  • Cleaned the threads and cylinder with a rag, and turned it over a few more times with the electric starter.
  • Dried the threads with compressed air.
  • Flushed the crankcase and changed the oil. I'll change it again after two or three hours.
  • Locked the insert in with red Permatex thread locker.
  • Used Liquid Wrench anti-seize dielectric grease on the plug threads.

It feels more powerful and runs more smoothly now, but the real test will be the next time we have a couple of feet of snow to remove.

Thanks to all who gave advice.

Rich
 
Mission accomplished. After some initial sputtering and backfiring, probably due to the solvent and whatever shards or filings managed to remain in the head and get caught up in the exhaust valve, the snow blower now starts on one gentle pull. It also runs a lot better with the new plug. How much of that is because it's new versus that it's an E3 plug, I can't say. But it's running great.

I used a combination of the methods suggested to keep as much metal out of the cylinder as possible:

  • Positive air pressure in the cylinder.
  • Grease on the tap.
  • Cleaned the threads with electrical contact cleaner and an infant-sized toothbrush. (The infant won't be happy about that.)
  • Turned it over a few times with the electric starter with the plug hole empty.
  • Cleaned the threads and cylinder with a rag, and turned it over a few more times with the electric starter.
  • Dried the threads with compressed air.
  • Flushed the crankcase and changed the oil. I'll change it again after two or three hours.
  • Locked the insert in with red Permatex thread locker.
  • Used Liquid Wrench anti-seize dielectric grease on the plug threads.

It feels more powerful and runs more smoothly now, but the real test will be the next time we have a couple of feet of snow to remove.

Thanks to all who gave advice.

Rich
What about those of us that didn’t give advise? Don’t we get thanks for not muddying the water with useless crap?
 
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