OSHCurse - Dodge 3500 DRW Edition

[denverpilot]

The official list.. Below. Some mandatory -- e.g. the blown head gasket... Others because I wanted them done...

Standard Dodge steering problems at just over 100K... Replaced all that crap with aftermarket. Head work. New exhaust manifold. Re- did the valve cover vent to not drain crap all over the back of the engine. All fluids. New rear brakes. New wheel bearings. New shocks. Cleaned up numerous wiring messes, aircraft style. (See why below...) New power steering pump. Seal kit for the vaccuum pump. All new fuel lines due to dry rot. (Common here.) Reinstalled deleted stock fuel filter/water separator to get back fuel pre-heater. New cooler covers on the manual transmission. Dumped the oiled air filter for an enormous BHAF and dust cover.

Price? Worse than the airplane, way better than a new truck. You can guess if you want to.

It runs unloaded like a scalded cat now that the hybrid HX35/40 turbo and injectors are matched up and set up correctly in the computer, along with the upgraded exhaust manifold. Holy crap. 7500 lbs of "I wanna go fast... Just push on the pedal a little more, would ya?" Can't add any more boost, it has the "53" stamped light case which is known to crack. She's done for horsepower upgrades unless we split the case and drop the engine in a stronger one.

I think the head gasket was blown before we left for OSH, after I heard about what they found inside when they tore it down and how much quieter it is at idle. Let's just say I never ever put Alumaseal in radiators and it really makes a mess in valve guides. You know it's bad when they keep asking you questions like, "Are you sure you didn't do anything to this truck before you brought it to us?" I suspect the former owner thought he was fighting a hard-to- find coolant leak. Into the number one cylinder, it would appear...

The rear brakes also weren't doing a damn thing.

It towed 12,500 lbs 2400 + miles with a blown head gasket and never complained at 65-70 MPH. Amazing. Just ate antifreeze.

Level 3 on the computer (out of 5, and no one uses 5 unless they're planking to replace the transmission tomorrow) really is "Prius Repellent" mode now, with the bigger injectors, and yeah completely unnecessary. But fun.

Until the turbo lag catches up a bit, it "rolls coal" now, then the turbo catches up and ... hang on!!!

Toys are fun!!! Especially big grunty diesel toys!!!

Appreciate Greg here recommending an awesome diesel custom shop. Owner is an FE in Hercs now and turned wrenches on them and engines for Continental back in the day here locally. He shared how much "entertainment" can be had when an RPG takes 80% of the right inboard flap off of one at rotation. Noooo thanks. Not a fun day at all. And that's one hell of a way to have a split flap condition. Had that look in his eyes like he was seeing it all again... Manual flap retraction on the left side, fly 150 miles to a runway long enough to land at flap 30 with half the starboard flap gone...

Jesse will note that I chickened out and had him re-do the A/C properly. That little line item for R-134. (From an off PoA discussion a while back.)

Ready to go camping again!
......

Cylinder Head Gasket
ARP Headstud Kit - 1998.5 - 2012 Dodge 24V * 98.5-02 24V 3 Piece Manifold Exhaust Manifold W/ Turbo Studs *
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (Multi- Layer) *
Injectors - 6 - 40HP Nozzles
Anti- Freeze with Fleetguard DCA4 Coolant Additive Thermostat *
Water Pump *
Kit Seal Air Pump *
Brake Shoe Hardware Kit *
Rear Brake Drums *
Rear Brake Shoes - Ultra Premium *
Wheel Hub Bearing Assemblies *
Front Dust Shields *
Amsoil Manual Transmission Oil-75W/90
Amsoil Synchomesh 5W30 Manual Trans Fluid MAX Coolers, Set
ATF+4
Amsoil Severe Gear® 75W-140
BHAF (Air Filter)
Outerwears BHAF Cover *
Comp/Promotional Item
Bilstein 4600 Series Shocks *
Power Steering Gear Box
Power Steering Pump with Reservoir 1997-2002 * Amsoil Power Steering Fluid
Track Bar *
Upgraded Track Bar Bracket
DSS Stearing Stabilizer Bar
Sway Bar Bushing - Front Suspension **
Sway Bar Link - Front Suspension *
Upper Ball Joints *
Lower Ball Joints *
Valvoline - Premium Blue 15W40
Fleetguard Oil Filter
R34A Freon
Fuel Filter Housing Canister - Used * Fleetguard Fuel Filter ('03-'07, 5.9L) 7 Micron -8 Push-Lok Hose
Serpentine Belt *
Upper Radiator Hose *
Lower Radiator Hose *
Radiator Cap *
Valve Cover - 24 Valve *
Grid Heater Gasket *
Push Rod Cover Gasket *
Push Rod Cover 1989-1998.5 Dodge *
Heater Hose (Blue)
Comp/Promotional Item
MAX Stealth Pump Cover
Machine Work on Cylinder Head
Remove & Replace Head & Install ARP Headstuds Remove & Clean Radiator & Replace AntiFreeze Remove & Replace Water Pump
Remove & Rebuild Air Pump
Remove & Replace Power Steering Pump
Remove & Replace Rear Brake Drums & Shoes Service: Front Diff
Service: Rear Diff
Service: Transmission & Transfer Case, Install FAST Coolers
Remove & Replace Front & Rear Shocks
Remove & Replace Gear Box
Install DSS Bar
Install Sway Bar Bushings and End Links
Remove & Replace 3rd Gen Track Bar & Track Bar Bracket

 

[Zeldman]

I have priced a new truck, equipped close to what I have now, for a little under twice what I paid for my current truck brand new. I don't need a new truck but my wants are hurting a little.

Alumaseal is bad for radiators as well. Stops water from flowing out leaks but stops water from flowing in the tubes inside the radiator.

Try to get a 4 micron fuel filter. Your injectors will thank you for that.

Maybe I misread, besides the usual maintenance items, all this work was needed at 100k miles?

 

[denverpilot]

I forgot a half a page of the list! LOL!

.....

Remove & Replace Upper & Lower Ball Joints, Unitized Hub Assembly (Unitized Bearing Seized in the Knuckle) Service: Oil Change
Service: AC
Replaced Front Axle U-Joint Axles *
Fixed Wiring on Rear Plug, Extra Back Up Lights Install Used Fuel Canister and Reconnect Wiring, Fuel Heater
Remove Old Fuel Line & Reinstall New -8 Hose (Old hose, Dry Rotted).
Alignment

 

[denverpilot]

Maybe I misread, besides the usual maintenance items, all this work was needed at 100k miles?

It's about 115k yeah. The front steering components of Dodges in the 2nd Generation are known for being total junk. Note on the latest list that the ball sockets were completely seized in place. They were replaced with urethane ones of a much higher quality than Mopar.

The rear brakes were due to improper maintenance. I really should have had them looked at after I bought it but just thought stopping power felt normal and the shoes looked ok.

Wheel bearings, improper maintenance again. I don't know if the former owner understood how the solid axle system works, but nevertheless they were trashed. The HD trucks need some things done that a half-ton today never needs, so folks sometimes miss stuff.

The general consensus is that most of these 3rd party components will go 200K now. The Mopar stuff just doesn't. On these older Dodges you generally rebuild stuff piecemeal around 100K and put better parts on, and they last forever after that.

The Cummins in stock config has very few problems other than the lift pump failing and taking out the VP44 engine pump which is spendy. This one had an upsized turbo and no matching upsized injectors and the turbo wastegate was wired shut which probably contributed to blowing the head gasket. Also wasn't quite tweaked right in the add on computer. If you start playing horsepower gnaws with these you do have to get it right or you break stuff. Usually people break the drivetrain. This time it broke the head gasket.

But for a you truck used sparingly for fun and towing chores the mods are hard to resist. Heh. Toys!

 

[sourdough44]

I've never felt that Chrysler vehicles age very well, in the mechanical/maintenance department. That is the main reason my last Dodge was back in the early 80's.

The younger Son likes Jeeps for some reason though, maybe some day I'll give them another go.

Most any vehicle should easily make 100k without major drivetrain and engine repair.

 

[N801BH]

It's about 115k yeah. The front steering components of Dodges in the 2nd Generation are known for being total junk. Note on the latest list that the ball sockets were completely seized in place. They were replaced with urethane ones of a much higher quality than Mopar.

The rear brakes were due to improper maintenance. I really should have had them looked at after I bought it but just thought stopping power felt normal and the shoes looked ok.

Wheel bearings, improper maintenance again. I don't know if the former owner understood how the solid axle system works, but nevertheless they were trashed. The HD trucks need some things done that a half-ton today never needs, so folks sometimes miss stuff.

The general consensus is that most of these 3rd party components will go 200K now. The Mopar stuff just doesn't. On these older Dodges you generally rebuild stuff piecemeal around 100K and put better parts on, and they last forever after that.

The Cummins in stock config has very few problems other than the lift pump failing and taking out the VP44 engine pump which is spendy. This one had an upsized turbo and no matching upsized injectors and the turbo wastegate was wired shut which probably contributed to blowing the head gasket. Also wasn't quite tweaked right in the add on computer. If you start playing horsepower gnaws with these you do have to get it right or you break stuff. Usually people break the drivetrain. This time it broke the head gasket.

But for a you truck used sparingly for fun and towing chores the mods are hard to resist. Heh. Toys!

..........

 

[Norman]

Nate,

You just made me thankful I drive a Chevy truck.

231,000 on the clock, and the only major in that time was a transmission at 186,000. Only set me back $1,400.

 

[Ted]

There's one reason you buy a Dodge, and that's the Cummins Turbo Diesel.

 

[denverpilot]

There's one reason you buy a Dodge, and that's the Cummins Turbo Diesel.

Yup. If someone would put the Cummins in a different truck, that'd be nice. The steering and front end on the Dodge was never built to carry the extra weight of the Cummins in the older models. You get that much mass bouncing on a bad road and it just tears things up. The engine is at least 400 lbs heavier than the big gas engine, and the big manual trans weighs 350 lbs by itself.

The neighbor's stock 2500 has had zero engine problems. He's replaced the whole front end also, though. He's up well over 200K miles on his.

 

[denverpilot]

It's stuff like this that makes you think Dodge hasn't moved forward out of the 1950s...

 

[denverpilot]

The only time you have trouble with the Cummins is when you start asking it to do more. Then you gotta let it have a lot more air... And fuel!

By far the best addition if towing heavy is the exhaust brake tucked back there behind the turbo.

The new ones are doing an amazingly neat computer controlled turbo with variable geometry that also acts as an exhaust brake. I don't even want to think about what one of those runs if it needs replaced.