Oil filter cutting

ScottM

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Today I changed my own oil for the first time in over two years. Mostly because I have been so damned busy these past couple of years I just paid the mechanic to do it. But it felt good to turn a wrench and do the work myself.

All went well until I got to actually cutting the filter for inspection. I have a great tool for opening the can, but the way I separate the filter from its frame is never easy and there has to be a better way. I use a utility knife and cut along each edge. The knife is not long enough so this take a lot of work. I find that cursing helps only a little. Is there a better way? If so let me know, I would love to be able to do that easier than I do it now.
 
My kit came with a serrated steak knife with a ~5" blade. Gripping the attached element with a glove, all on a thick rag, I saw at the top and bottom, vigorously and deeply - trying to stay close to the frame. Then cut each end of the element off the frame, followed by a few finishing cuts where I missed the first time and it usually pulls out pretty well.
 
There's no easy way to get that thing apart. I have considered creating some sort of crank device that would turn it while a knife was forced into it, but by the time one mounted the cartridge, dealt with the crosswise metal media clip, and cut the thing apart, he could have done it the old way. Use one of those Olfa utility knives with the long break-off blades; you can stick it out farther and therefore cut deeper. The tip will get dull on the steel filter core, making cutting much slower, so break the blade tip off if it's dull.

Dan
 
Today I changed my own oil for the first time in over two years. Mostly because I have been so damned busy these past couple of years I just paid the mechanic to do it. But it felt good to turn a wrench and do the work myself.

All went well until I got to actually cutting the filter for inspection. I have a great tool for opening the can, but the way I separate the filter from its frame is never easy and there has to be a better way. I use a utility knife and cut along each edge. The knife is not long enough so this take a lot of work. I find that cursing helps only a little. Is there a better way? If so let me know, I would love to be able to do that easier than I do it now.

Hacksaw works pretty well, a little care is all that's needed. Messy job no matter what.

Gary
 
I use a bread knife.
 
Great suggestions and I am happy it is not just me that has difficulties with opening those things. I think I will pick up a cheap serrated bread or bagel knife for my next change.
 
On my filters anyway a box cutter is the perfect length with the blade completely extended. With a new sharp blade, it's actually quite easy and quick to get the paper element out.
 
Okay, stupid newbie question here...what exactly are you guys talking about separating via knifeblade? Are you actually removing the filter media so you can hold it in your hand?

When I open my filter, I pull the cartridge out and simply eyeball the pleats, using my oily fingers to open them up as required. I was taught that "we're just looking for shiny bits", and that the really small stuff will show up in the oil analysis. If the filter doesn't look glittery, then you're good.

Is there more to it than that? What are you guys doing that I'm not?
 
Yes, I cut the whole paper element out, stretch it open and inspect it. It just takes a couple of minutes.
 
Okay, stupid newbie question here...what exactly are you guys talking about separating via knifeblade? Are you actually removing the filter media so you can hold it in your hand?
Yes

When I open my filter, I pull the cartridge out and simply eyeball the pleats, using my oily fingers to open them up as required. I was taught that "we're just looking for shiny bits", and that the really small stuff will show up in the oil analysis. If the filter doesn't look glittery, then you're good.

Is there more to it than that? What are you guys doing that I'm not?
You have only looked at one side of the filter and I was told that the input to the filter is from the center, through the paper and then to the outside. So all the stuff will be caught on the inside of the filter and that is why you have to remove it from the frame for inspection.
 
Yes

You have only looked at one side of the filter and I was told that the input to the filter is from the center, through the paper and then to the outside. So all the stuff will be caught on the inside of the filter and that is why you have to remove it from the frame for inspection.
The next time you have the filter off, have some one crank the engine and see where the oil comes out of the filter adaptor, and think it thru.
 
The oil goes from outside to inside.

I wouldn't use a hacksaw. It will leave metal bits on the media, and I'm checking to see that the media is free of metal bits.

Dan
 
Okay, stupid newbie question here...what exactly are you guys talking about separating via knifeblade? Are you actually removing the filter media so you can hold it in your hand?

When I open my filter, I pull the cartridge out and simply eyeball the pleats, using my oily fingers to open them up as required. I was taught that "we're just looking for shiny bits", and that the really small stuff will show up in the oil analysis. If the filter doesn't look glittery, then you're good.

Is there more to it than that? What are you guys doing that I'm not?

Here is how I do about 3 a month.

I place the wrench end of the filter in my lathe and run the tail stock up to the open end of the filter and use a tool bit to cut the seam holding the top of the filter on, when the filter shell falls off I remove the element dispose of the filter can, and place the element on a metal plate and heat the metal piece on each end the glue holding the paper will melt and allow the metal plate to be removed, turn it over and heat the other side the element will come off the other end too.

Do not use a torch to heat the metal plate, a hot air gun will do OK, and of course use a needle nosed players to handle the metal plates.
 
You have only looked at one side of the filter and I was told that the input to the filter is from the center, through the paper and then to the outside. So all the stuff will be caught on the inside of the filter and that is why you have to remove it from the frame for inspection.
That was the piece I was not comprehending. Many thanks.
 
Bread Knife FTW

Although at work, we just tear the filter media out. If it comes out in one piece or multiple, your just looking for debri. (Which is typically evenly spread among the pleats).
 
I just used a hunting knife that had about a 5-inch blade, sharpened it when the cutting became difficult.
 
Once you get the filter media out, in whatever preferred manner you happen to believe in (personally I like the breadknife), I usually fold the media along its natural pleats and squeeze it in a vise to remove the excess oil, then take it outside into direct sunlight to look for glints of metal. You'll most likely be able to see a little glint here and there, anything bigger than the head of a pin is cause for concern.
 
I have also seen the filter just washed (plunging motion) in a bucket of solvent, using fingers to alternately spread the pleats... Then the solvent is poured through a coffee filter and the debris examined... No cutting of the filter paper required..

denny-o
 
I have also seen the filter just washed (plunging motion) in a bucket of solvent, using fingers to alternately spread the pleats... Then the solvent is poured through a coffee filter and the debris examined... No cutting of the filter paper required..

denny-o

I've played with that meathod but inspection of the element still showed shinys stuck in the media.
 
That inspection of the solvent alone was not telling the whole story

it tells enough, you can see metal in the filter, cutting it open isn't going to tell you any more. I know several A&P-IA s that have a modified sludge gun to rinse filters into a pan of solvent, kinda like panning for gold. "wash it out and see what ya got.

it works
 
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