Oil changing... Piper Archer

Also I didn't notice anyone mentioning it, and I'm sure you already know this, make sure you run the plane (few laps in the pattern) to get the oil hot before changing the oil

Nothing wrong with a few laps, but a good run up will do just as well without introducing quite as much burn risk. 110° oil will flow out just as well as 220° oil, plus you don't have to wait for the filter to cool down.
 
Nothing wrong with a few laps, but a good run up will do just as well without introducing quite as much burn risk. 110° oil will flow out just as well as 220° oil, plus you don't have to wait for the filter to cool down.
That's true, but if you're doing oil analysis then you'll likely need to get the oil up to full operating temperature to boil off the condensation and fuel contaminates. During the winter I need to practice slow flight when on my "oil warm up flight" to make sure it gets to 190*F (+-) for at least 10 minutes.

I learned that if I don't get the oil fully heated then I'll have a wacked out analysis report.

If you're not doing oil analysis then sure...just warm up enough to get it to flow.
 
That's true, but if you're doing oil analysis then you'll likely need to get the oil up to full operating temperature to boil off the condensation and fuel contaminates. During the winter I need to practice slow flight when on my "oil warm up flight" to make sure it gets to 190*F (+-) for at least 10 minutes.

I learned that if I don't get the oil fully heated then I'll have a wacked out analysis report.

If you're not doing oil analysis then sure...just warm up enough to get it to flow.

Good point, I don't do my analysis draw at the oil change. I have the vacuum pump that holds the jar and a hose. After I land I'll drop the hose down the dipstick tube and suck the sample out of the sump.
 
Any real consequence for going an hour or two over the recommended change interval?

I ask because UPS decided not to deliver my oil today even though it was in town last night and I won't be able to get it delivered until tuesday....
 
Any real consequence for going an hour or two over the recommended change interval?

I ask because UPS decided not to deliver my oil today even though it was in town last night and I won't be able to get it delivered until tuesday....

No worries.
 
Well, it's nearly done...

Nearly.

Lesson #1 learned... there's more than one drain plug on that pan and in fact I did not need to remove the one I did.. there was a quick drain hiding on the other side of the engine.

Lesson #2 learned... there's a screen on these engines that needs cleaned out now and then apparently... and that flat copper washer is in fact not a copper washer it's a crush seal and now I need to find one.. hopefully the mechanics have them in stock when they reopen on monday :mad2:

Lesson #3 learned I should have bought some oil-dri before starting this.

Lesson #4 I shouldn't have brought home that tote I keep all my extra towels/shop towels/cleaning rags in so I could wash them, then not bring it back to hangar when I went to change the oil.

Lesson #5 Safety wire sucks and aviation has now completely ruined my confidence in the area of wire twisting. I think I broke 6 in a row before finally securing the oil filter.

Also not so much a lesson but a discovery... the hot air tube coming off the exhaust manifold had fallen off... it looks like either the clamp was barely tightened down or was barely hanging on and popped loose. That hose doesn't look very good either, a lot of the reinforcing wire is exposed. Is that thing an A&P item? I'd think not as it's a flexible tube and a pair of hose clamps but it's hard to say with these things.


but... it didn't go too bad all things considered and next time I won't screw any of these things up.
 
Well, it's nearly done...

Nearly.

Lesson #1 learned... there's more than one drain plug on that pan and in fact I did not need to remove the one I did.. there was a quick drain hiding on the other side of the engine.

Lesson #2 learned... there's a screen on these engines that needs cleaned out now and then apparently... and that flat copper washer is in fact not a copper washer it's a crush seal and now I need to find one.. hopefully the mechanics have them in stock when they reopen on monday :mad2:

Lesson #3 learned I should have bought some oil-dri before starting this.

Lesson #4 I shouldn't have brought home that tote I keep all my extra towels/shop towels/cleaning rags in so I could wash them, then not bring it back to hangar when I went to change the oil.

Lesson #5 Safety wire sucks and aviation has now completely ruined my confidence in the area of wire twisting. I think I broke 6 in a row before finally securing the oil filter.

Also not so much a lesson but a discovery... the hot air tube coming off the exhaust manifold had fallen off... it looks like either the clamp was barely tightened down or was barely hanging on and popped loose. That hose doesn't look very good either, a lot of the reinforcing wire is exposed. Is that thing an A&P item? I'd think not as it's a flexible tube and a pair of hose clamps but it's hard to say with these things.


but... it didn't go too bad all things considered and next time I won't screw any of these things up.


Time to start stocking hardware. I have bins full of all the crush washers, gaskets, and hardware the airplane could possibly need. Enough of them to change the oil many more times then it will need before overhaul. Nothing sucks more to be stuck on a Sunday on a project because you don't have the right washer.
 
Installing safety wire is an acquired skill. I remember my first attempts at doing it and the looks and smiles from my A&P.

They look pretty good now.

I also bought a set from Aircraft Spruce with the three spools of wire a hand tool for twisting wire and a set of spinning pliers. They are middle of the road quality but only twist in one direction. A good set can be set to twist CW or CCW. The whole thing came in a canvas tote to keep them together.
 
Surprised no one has mentioned getting good & proper sized Phillips screwdriver bits - not plated. I used those by Adel. Clean the paint out of any screw heads before you find out that dried paint is a very good release agent.

Get a bunch of spare cowl screws from Aircraft Spruce too. These tricks can save you having to drill out a stripped head screw.
 
Good and properly sized screw drivers are a must. It is amazing to me how some of my older cheaper ones work better than the new ones.
 
Good and properly sized screw drivers are a must. It is amazing to me how some of my older cheaper ones work better than the new ones.
and wash the tips in a little gasoline to remove any grease etc for max bite......:wink2:
 
Screwdrivers, wrenches, and sockets are one place you will never regret the extra money spent on Snap-On. They have some patented details that really make the difference between removing a worn/damaged fastener and bleeding. ;)
 
Well, it's done. I flew a couple trips through the pattern and no oil loss that I can discern, there was a little bit of splatter coming out from under the cowling but I'm thinking it must have been either from the vent tube or just whatever I wasn't able to wipe off from what spilled everywhere. I'll monitor it closely the next couple of hours to be sure...
 
LOL, yeah, if you spilled a bunch of oil, you'll be cleaning it for a few hours.
 
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