New hangar construction research

[Otto Pilot]

Morning everyone.

I’m in the very early stages of working on a hangar. Two, or possibly three, of my local airports will do new land leases and I’ve got a few questions for those who have done it before.

1. What was the rough cost for your slab, building, door, and basic plumbing/electrical? I’m not looking for a decked out man cave. Also, what part of the country are you in? It looks like Mueller will build a 60x60 or so for $150-180k, unless those numbers I found from 2022 are wrong.

2. How long of a lease do you have? One airport will only do 20, and the other will do a much more standard 30.

3. Anything you’d definitely do differently if you could? I know bigger is always better, but I mean more like an extra roll up door, hangar facing a different direction, and so on.

Thanks!

 

[ateamer]

I have a Powerlift door - one piece, hydraulically operated. It works well and can be used as an awning. If I was doing it all over, I’d go with a Higher Power door. They’re also a one-piece and hydraulic, but instead of being mounted to the door frame, it is set on vertical steel posts that are not part of the hangar structure. It also tilts inward as it goes up, so it doesn’t stick out as far. They’re both excellent. Plus no cables, straps or winches to eventually replace, plus it doesn’t take half the morning to open.

Make sure the contractor skins the door correctly. The Powerlift dealer installed our door’s framework and mechanism, and putting the sheet metal on was the general contractor’s job. A few months later when the rains came, I heard water sloshing inside the door. The dealer came out, and turns out that the contractor’s guys put the sheet metal on wrong, which allowed water to enter. The dealer drilled drain holes, which solved the problem. The Powerlift dealer said that half the time, contractors disregard the manufacturer’s printed instructions and just slap the metal together.

A remote control for the door is convenient. You can open the door as you’re taxiing in.

If you’re going to want an epoxy coating on the floor, do it when the hangar is new, and empty. No oil spots yet, and you won’t have to figure out what to do with all the stuff.

Put in plenty of lights. Commercial duty LED overhead fixtures. We have a 60x60 hangar with six lights. I’d like to add four more on a separate switch for those projects that need more light.

Put in more outlets than you think you’ll need. Even if you don’t have the amps to use them simultaneously, it’s quite a convenience to have duals or quads every 20 feet so you can leave things plugged in or not run extension cords all the way across.

A rollup door opposite the big door is nice, so you can park inside without affecting the plane.

No skylights. They will leak eventually.

Insulation is worth the cost. We have the standard bagged insulation. A couple neighbors have sprayed foam and it looks like probably a better way to go. No sheathing to tear like on traditional insulation, plus no gap (however small) between the insulation and structure for rodents and insects to hide out.

If you’re in a humid climate, a dehumidifier is great to have. When it’s 90+% humidity here, inside the hangar it doesn’t go above 45%, and is normally below 35%. I do wish thatI had gone with a bigger unit. The dealer recommended that size based on their formula, but like with so many other things, it’d be best to go up at least one size, preferably two.

After the building is done, close the doors and stand inside with the lights off. Then go around and seal the gaps in the corners with silicone caulk.

 

[Stewartb]

Prices will be specific to your area. My central TX concrete guy charges me $6 per sq ft for slab work incl forms and rebar. Grade beams wouldn't add much. In AK where my hangar is? That price would be near triple.

My hangar structure is wood and I prefer it. Quieter than steel and I like flat gypsum walls. My door is hydraulic and unless I open a smaller door first it’ll create so much vacuum when opening the walls flex. I prefer hydraulic doors and the way they seal out weather but having a remote control (which I do) is a waste of time. I can’t use it and wouldn’t use it if I could. If your ramp area is limited? Bifold doors allow you to park closer to the door without interfering with opening or closing it.