New boat

more power!!!

12463d1176482230-2-000-hp-inflatable-drugboat1.jpg
 
Every salmon in southeast Ak, will now become a target.

Hoona here we come........>
 
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Tom-D said:
Bought one of these today, no longer made, and the last one in inventory.

any tips on care ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfgIvvaCo10
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Collenite 845 Insulator wax on everything, frequently. Get a piece of PVC that slips snug over the throttle so you can move forward to get on the step solo and drive on a better trim. If you ever think you're going to row this thing, think again, especially not on the short oars they provide. If you are buying an outboard, may I suggest a Suzuki? Largest one the plate allows for, you can always throttle back, but even more so than in a plane, horsepower is your friend, especially when the wind and waves catch you out. They are the choice of commercial operators worldwide anymore. Their 4 strokes took it by putting a timing chain in oil at the bottom rather than a belt drive in air. Wouldn't be as much of an issue except that the valves are on an interference lift value with the piston. I would also get a bow tank for it, Tempo makes one for the purpose available at any marine hardware store. If you want another (I recommend for your area since you have large areas of beautiful protected waters) get one that fits under the mid seat.

Then of course there's this option:

 
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Henning said:
Collenite 845 Insulator wax on everything, frequently.
Click to expand...

I'll figure out what that is, WEst marine has a product they recommend , but I already have a good US made Evenrude 25 for it. That is what is on the data tag and the Coasties are very picky about over powering boats around here. you will checked almost every day around here.
 
Tom-D said:
I'll figure out what that is, WEst marine has a product they recommend , but I already have a good US made Evenrude 25 for it. That is what is on the data tag and the Coasties are very picky about over powering boats around here. you will checked almost every day around here.
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http://www.amazon.com/Collinite®-Insulator-Wax-16-oz/dp/B000JK2D06

Seriously, use it on your plane paint & windows/vinyl/varnish/wood inside and out as well. The business is a trillion dollar scam, 845 does nearly everything in this type of cleaning & protective/sacrificial barrier to oxidation required, it's a 2 in one which is easy to work both on and off and with micro fiber towels and a damp applicator pad creates almost no dust and does not leave big white globs in cracks. Great for glass windows as well as brushed stainless. Resists smears and fingerprints and allows easy clean up. I never use window cleaner, this is so much easier and better, especially with filthy windows.
 
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Tom-D said:
I'll figure out what that is, WEst marine has a product they recommend , but I already have a good US made Evenrude 25 for it. That is what is on the data tag and the Coasties are very picky about over powering boats around here. you will checked almost every day around here.
Click to expand...


Yep, that's why I said 'max what it's tagged for'. Is that the motor with the the shifter handle on the top of the tiller handle? If so you can make a great extension handle. If it's a 2 stroke be ready to carry as much fuel as you can. Tempo makes tanks that fit into V bilges that will go in there. The thing you'll find missing in that boat if you and your bride are intending to do some running around, especially at the speeds 25 hp will do for you is seating. Any seating you design forward should include fuel tanking. There are also companies that build center consoles to put in them for steering and shift, you can also build your own (use hydraulic steering if you do it). PVC has advantages and disadvantages to Hypalon but all in all is just fine. IIRC all of the Zodiac materials are PVC as well, therefore if you come across wear issues from use, you van buy the tougher commercial Zodiac materials to bond on top of the high wear spots for sacrificial material. That's what I always do with a new soft bottom boat along the keel and overlap/reinforce the transom joints and tube/bottom joint if there is an unbonded track for the floorboards (or no track at all) as well as the bow and tail bounce points on them and RIBs too. If you intend to fish from it, a doubler strip covering the lower-outer part of the tube, can't tell you how many fish flopping holes/tears I've patched. If you're gonna leave it uncovered in the sun or haul stuff with it that's going to sit on the tubes you may also consider a set of chaps that fit over the tubes and can be removed and washed. What I do is quilt a really soft poly-(Polar)fleece (dries very quickly and is super soft/low mildew)to Sunbrella and make covers to fit and fasten over the tubes. Worked really well against sharp & rough surf board skegs and hauling gear (even made a black set).

BTW, I do not like the add on 'dolfins' for inflatables w/ outboards except for one extreme high aspect thin bladed deep gull wing design, otherwise with the soft bottoms you get stuck with cavitation/air suck until you come off the step. The "prop guard" rings make steering with a tiller very heavy and wearing. If I though there was a chance you'd be using it in warm water with the grand kids in the water I'd tell you to get a jet pump leg for the motor.
 
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