[NA]Residential Windows[NA]

Let'sgoflying!

Let'sgoflying!

Touchdown! Greaser!
Joined
Feb 23, 2005
Messages
20,311
Location
west Texas
Display Name
Display name:
Dave Taylor
My home's windows truly bite.
They are the crankiest devices I have ever met.
A half dozen refuse to open. So many of them won't stay up. Others stay up part way but canted at a crazy angle. Some of them are poised to fall on fingers, cats...whatever is in their way. Want to lose some fingernails? Try to open the bathroom window or the southeast bedroom window - haha! I do not ask much of my windows. Keep a fraction of the elements out during the windstorm, allow a bit of the evening breeze in (but not the larger insects). Perhaps a bit of insulation from the radiation.
These ones are 'bronze' (dark brown) metal frame, single hung, double pane with a gas or maybe a vacuum in between layers, slide up from the bottom revealing an easily removable (important for cleaning) nylon or plastic screen and they are 16yrs old. The retraction/retention mechanism consists of a stiff spiral of 1/4" metal hidden in each side of the frame. There are false dividers in each pane. There is a stamp on the latch, "BetterBilt" -there's a laugh.

I have some money to do something with them (12 of them, various sizes up to 5x5') - there is no sense saving excess cash, gotta blow it.

I like the appearance and design of these but really really need something that will reliably "work" and not result in a apoplectic tirade during each use.

Let's start with top of the line brands and I will see if my budget chokes before we move down from there. Thanks.
 
Lots of variables. What kind of siding on your house? Do the existing windows have flanges that surface mount to the studs under the siding? Etc.

Pella, Anderson and (formerly) Biltbest made good windows but likely their standard sizes won't fit your openings so you get into custom sizes and that = $$$$. You're obviously not happy with the current window brand but maybe they have a better line than what was installed in your house. Going with the same brand would likely be the best option for finding stock windows that fit your opening sizes.

I'm not a residential construction guy...almost all my experience is commercial. So take the above FWIW.
 
Yeah, I gotta replace my windows after the summer. Not difficult, I'll do it myself and save some scratch. Looking at Anderson windows, mostly because they have my sizes in stock.

Doing the roof right now. I took everything off and replaced some wood but I will let the professionals put the shingles on.

Possibly selling the house next year and moving. We will see what happens business wise after this summer.
 
I have a reasonably good level of Andersen. Double pane, double hung, but not the tilt wash style.

If you are putting any on the west or south side, pay the extra couple bucks for the low-e UV coated (or whatever its called) for those elevations. The coating is on the inner surface of the outer pane and should help keep that summer sun under control. Anderson warranty is voided is you put a film on the indoor surface - they say the extra heat buildup from any interior film can cause the seal to fail.
 
Don't know anything about windows except that I'm happy with mine which I replaced about a year and a half ago using Renewal by Anderson. They were expensive but the big plus for me is they do an excellent job of keeping my unairconditioned house cool in the summer. On the other hand, the sunlight does not exactly warm up my house in the winter...
 
timwinters said:
What kind of siding on your house? Do the existing windows have flanges that surface mount to the studs under the siding?
Click to expand...

Tim, this is an 'engineered log' home. D-shaped fir logs. They did install a stud frame in each opening, in order to surface mount the flanged windows.
I will measure each shortly to see if Anderson (mentioned 4x so far here) will fit.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
Not finding Renewal. Scroll down to the Perf. Comp chart , maybe they changed the name?
Click to expand...
The name of the company was "Renewal by Andersen" which I think is their branch which does retrofit windows as opposed to new construction. You would ask me a technical question like that, haha. I don't remember the exact type I got other than they were called "low -e".
 
Maybe this will help?
 

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I am looking at all the info and cannot tell the difference between 'new install' and retrofit or replacement.
Don't they all just mount to the wood framing of the house?
 
Found on the interwebs:

When installing replacement windows, the existing window frame remains and the replacement window is installed inside the existing frame. This causes the glass area to shrink slightly to accommodate the new window. When installing a "new construction window" into an existing opening, the entire window unit including sash and frame is removed down to the rough opening and the complete assembly is replaced which includes a nailing flange which has to be secured to the exterior wall. Installing new construction windows is a much more complex project since the siding on the exterior has to be removed in order to secure the nail flange to the wall. Most consumers go with the replacement window due to the ease and cost of installation as compared to the new construction window option.
 
Option B is to replace the balance springs on your windows. BetterBilt is a Lowes brand of MI Windows and Doors.

Here's their video on replacing them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwX47PczBMw Getting rid of the seized and busted balance springs should actually make most of your windows work again.

http://www.miwd.com/support/dealer-locator/ Check here for your local dealer. You'll need the outside dimensions on the window, or better yet just remove and take in a balancer from each size.

If the double panes haven't started condensing between the glass, they might all be salvageable with a little bit of hardware. Been there, done that.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
I am looking at all the info and cannot tell the difference between 'new install' and retrofit or replacement.
Don't they all just mount to the wood framing of the house?
Click to expand...

timwinters said:
Found on the interwebs:

When installing replacement windows, the existing window frame remains and the replacement window is installed inside the existing frame. This causes the glass area to shrink slightly to accommodate the new window. When installing a "new construction window" into an existing opening, the entire window unit including sash and frame is removed down to the rough opening and the complete assembly is replaced which includes a nailing flange which has to be secured to the exterior wall. Installing new construction windows is a much more complex project since the siding on the exterior has to be removed in order to secure the nail flange to the wall. Most consumers go with the replacement window due to the ease and cost of installation as compared to the new construction window option.
Click to expand...

Tim "hit the nail on the head" concerning the difference between replacement verses construction windows. When we did ours, we went with construction. Anderson had standard sizes that fit perfectly. Doing construction windows allows for a better installation since all the window components are replaced which (IMHO) seals better and allows for any repair that might be needed. Since we also re-sided the house at the same time (went from aluminum to vinyl) there wasn't an issue with the trim. Depending on your existing siding, this may or may not be a problem.

With the new windows, there are no more drafts, and the house is much easier to heat/cool. The low-e does help and the fact the new windows tilt in, makes cleaning the second floor windows a breeze - no more ladders!! That was worth it alone.

Gary
 
Gary said:
Tim "hit the nail on the head" concerning the difference between replacement verses construction windows. When we did ours, we went with construction. Anderson had standard sizes that fit perfectly. Doing construction windows allows for a better installation since all the window components are replaced which (IMHO) seals better and allows for any repair that might be needed. Since we also re-sided the house at the same time (went from aluminum to vinyl) there wasn't an issue with the trim. Depending on your existing siding, this may or may not be a problem.

With the new windows, there are no more drafts, and the house is much easier to heat/cool. The low-e does help and the fact the new windows tilt in, makes cleaning the second floor windows a breeze - no more ladders!! That was worth it alone.

Gary
Click to expand...

Several good points. Other things to consider include frame material and window style. I went cheap when I replaced windows 'cause I had just bought the house and was low on cash. Vinyl window frame, sliding double panes with low-e glass got rid of the "dust dunes" that formed around the original aluminum framed, single paned windows. Some day I'd like to replace many with wood framed swing-outs but that's many projects down the road. Anyway, the house was much more comfortable after the window replacement.

Then I opened up the roof ventilation and the house was bearable in the summer without AC...
 
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Not quite sure what you would have called my type of window replacement but they cut out the old aluminum windows with a hacksaw flush with the existing window frame then inserted the new ones. They replaced the sill on one window because it had water damage. The outside siding survived pretty intact but that was not so much an issue for me since I also replaced that a couple months later. At the time, though, I wasn't sure that I was going to replace the siding or just have it repaired.
 

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I think I am going to have to see photos to learn the difference between new construction and replacement windows, still not getting it.

There is no siding.
It's "an 'engineered log' home. D-shaped fir logs." Maybe I need to provide a photo of that.

So they made eg ~5'4"x5'4" openings in the exterior wall, nailed in some 2x4 framing.
The window flanges screw onto the 2x4s. Trim added inside and out; done. (well, silicone and foam insulation too)
 
Have decided to stick with aluminum, according to one of the websites they don't recommend vinyl in warm climates due to warpage/shrinkage...and my other building which is vinyl is good evidence of that.
 
I've been in the window business all my life. Replacement windows are not difficult and there are lots of flim-flam artists out there to take your money. There is no magic to "replacement" windows. The bottom line is that window replacement is surgery on your home. Interior and exterior trim will need to be changed to do it right. Once you accept that your choices vary from aluminum or vinyl clad wood windows on the high end to common vinyl windows on the low end. They all are required to meet NFRC ratings and all work. You need to decide whether you want windows to keep the weather out or you want fine furniture to enhance your decor. Glass is the major component and makes the biggest energy saving contribution and which is best is a regional thing. West Texas and Alaska have very different requirements. Find a local contractor or three and get quotes for replacing your windows. Make sure your bedroom windows meet current egress code. New windows are dramatically better than old ones but they can't fix old construction so how the windows impact your overall energy bills is impossible to predict. Get a few bids. Find a contractor you like and trust. That's 90% of the formula for success.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
Have decided to stick with aluminum, according to one of the websites they don't recommend vinyl in warm climates due to warpage/shrinkage...and my other building which is vinyl is good evidence of that.
Click to expand...

My Texas house has vinyl windows and they work fine. Arizona uses vinyl windows, too. Aluminum has mostly gone by the wayside except in big multi-family projects and even those favor vinyl these days. I sell an aluminum clad vinyl window but the purpose of the exterior cladding is to provide lots of color options. Vinyl has fewer color choices but that's pretty easy to deal with in the vast majority of homes.
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
I think I am going to have to see photos to learn the difference between new construction and replacement windows, still not getting it.

There is no siding.
It's "an 'engineered log' home. D-shaped fir logs." Maybe I need to provide a photo of that.

So they made eg ~5'4"x5'4" openings in the exterior wall, nailed in some 2x4 framing.
The window flanges screw onto the 2x4s. Trim added inside and out; done. (well, silicone and foam insulation too)
Click to expand...
New construction windows generally have a relatively large flange around them and may have some integrated flashing that goes out another couple of inches. The framing is built, the exterior wall (OSB or something) goes on, the the window is plugged into the opening from the outside. The flange and flashing seal around the outside and may be used to nail it in place. Then the siding is installed and hides the flange and flashing.

Your style of house might not have allowed that type of window in the first place. In your case, I think the window frame is slid into the opening and fastened around from the inside, the the interior wall trim hides all that OR it slides in from the outside and your exterior wall trim hides it. I've seen new construction windows installed, but not replacement so I'm just guessing on that part.

edit: My Andersen windows are wood on the inside and vinyl clad on the outside. They seem to have held up OK through a lot of KS summers and winters.
 
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Just figured out what kind of windows I got by looking at the photo of the labels I posted. They are wood/vinyl composite dual argon Low-E4 SmartSun. I had various style windows, some sliders, some up and down (the sides of a bay window). I replaced a couple up and downs in the bathroom and kitchen with the awning style, and I also have a large picture window.
 
Single and double hung lift springs are easily replaceable as are roto or lever operators on casements and awnings. If you don't have a local window or glass shop that carries the parts look at Blaine's back east. They have lots of hardware including old/obsolete parts.

http://www.blainewindow.com/index.php
 
The lowest level of Anderson are junk but their more advanced lines are top notch. I have them in my house in NC. Pella makes good windows but note their customer service is absolutely attrocious.
 
There is no way I am going to mess with repairing these windows. Someone may have them if they would like. The place on the window frame where the retraction mechanism attaches breaks. Maybe if you wanted to weld aluminum or do some riveting you could salvage them for a while. In addition, there are other things about these windows that I did not include in my initial tirade which no reasonable person would try to fix. Frames coming apart, spilling glass panes out. The locking mechanism catches without obvious reason so you cannot open a window (but you will try, unawares, killing fingertips or ripping nails). Two windows are crooked in their mount and I discovered when they close, it is causing frame to bend into the path of the sash, so they will not close anymore.
 
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