N/A How to wire a range hood?

mikea

mikea

Touchdown! Greaser!
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iWin
'nother semi-dumb question from me.

I replaced my range hood after the original fell down.

The good news is that with my neighbor's help we able to hang it and hook it up to use the original duct to the roof that connected off the rear. (I couldn't see how to really seal the duct up but I think it's a good fit anyway.)

I cannot for the life of me figure out what is proper way to wire it up.

It came with the white, black, and green wires just stuffed through a small hole in the metal knockout out the top. Not even a grommet on them. Inside there's a small metal box under the knockout on top. The instructions only hint that you may want to put a plug on the end and plug it into an outlet. There's a knockout on the back panel, but.... no way to bring wires from there into the metal wiring box. It doesn't have an opening on the side.

I'm told that our county does nto allow non-metallic conduit, so Romex is out, so it can't quote go like this:
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/elect/appliances/range_hood/recirc.htm
My thought is I can run metallic flex (BX) into the top knockout with a 90 degree connector or use the rear knockout and open up the internal box with some tin snips.

Is it common to have an outlet in the cabinet above and run a plug into it?
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Electrical-Wiring-Home-1734/wiring-range-hood.htm
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wiring/msg0619371810205.html

I won't mention how hinky the wiring was in the first place. It's worse now but I'll fix it. :blush: Because the hood is too low for me, I'm thinking I'll have to raise the cabinets about 10 inches. I have to figure out how to raise the 90 on the duct in the wall. :yikes: Major surgery. Some day. If I live so long. And the cabinet is custom cabinet with three sections in one piece about 9 feet long.
 
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mikea said:
'nother semi-dumb question from me.

I replaced my range hood after the original fell down.

The good news is that with my neighbor's help we able to hang it and hook it up to use the original duct to the roof that connected off the rear. (I couldn't see how to really seal the duct up but I think it's a good fit anyway.)

I cannot for the life of me figure out what is proper way to wire it up.

It came with the white, black, and green wires just stuffed through a small hole in the metal knockout out the top. Not even a grommet on them. Inside there's a small metal box under the knockout on top. The instructions only hint that you may want to put a plug on the end and plug it into an outlet. There's a knockout on the back panel, but.... no way to bring wires from there into the metal wiring box. It doesn't have an opening on the side.

I'm told that our county does nto allow non-metallic conduit, so Romex is out, so it can't quote go like this:
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/elect/appliances/range_hood/recirc.htm
My thought is I can run metallic flex (BX) into the top knockout with a 90 degree connector or use the rear knockout and open up the internal box with some tin snips.

Is it common to have an outlet in the cabinet above and run a plug into it?
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Electrical-Wiring-Home-1734/wiring-range-hood.htm
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/wiring/msg0619371810205.html

I won't mention how hinky the wiring was in the first place. It's worse now but I'll fix it. :blush: Becuase the hood is too low for me, I'm thinking I'll have to raise the cabinets about 10 inches. I have to figure out how to raise the 90 on the duct in the wall. :yikes: Major surgery. Some day. If I live so long.
Click to expand...

If it's plug connected there are basically no rules beyond the outlet itself. If you want to wire it in permanently use greenfield with the appropriate connectors on the ends of the conduit that mate with the holes in the hood and electrical box where you tap into the supply. Use the same (or larger gauge wire in the greenfield as what's already in the supply box. Some codes will require a separate ground wire and some will allow the conduit itself to be the safety ground. I'd use a green wire in either case.
 
It sounds like there are a few issues:
a) getting it mounted securely where you need it.
b) where and how to run the wire from the source (hanging loose in the wall?) to the box on the new range
c) what materials to use for wiring, connections etc (romex is not non-metal conduit)
d) actually making the connections correctly
e) satisfying code

Maybe you could ask specific questions about each, to help us answer succinctly and helpfully?
edit: a photo would really help.


PS the ducting is supposed to be taped (or, as it notes you don't have to duct it to the outside at all.)
Also you ask about the bare wires & no grommet. Then instructions mention a cable lock - readily available at hardware store and a good idea, I too would cringe to see a wire or cable exit unguarded.
 
Greg Bockelman said:
Why not just wire it the way the old one was wired?
Click to expand...

:rofl: Well, it is wired as the original, temporarily, - only it's worser. Let's just say that ol' Chuck was a better carpenter than he was an electrician.

My home inspector spotted the wire going though up the cabinet and wrote it up. I looked and saw where it went. :nono:
 
Let'sgoflying! said:
It sounds like there are a few issues:
a) getting it mounted securely where you need it.
b) where and how to run the wire from the source (hanging loose in the wall?) to the box on the new range
c) what materials to use for wiring, connections etc (romex is not non-metal conduit)
d) actually making the connections correctly
e) satisfying code

Maybe you could ask specific questions about each, to help us answer succinctly and helpfully?
edit: a photo would really help.


PS the ducting is supposed to be taped (or, as it notes you don't have to duct it to the outside at all.)
Also you ask about the bare wires & no grommet. Then instructions mention a cable lock - readily available at hardware store and a good idea, I too would cringe to see a wire or cable exit unguarded.
Click to expand...

I wrapped the wires in tape to give it some extra insulation and phisical protection. For the final job I'll put a box connector there.

I'm not sure that even Greenfield is OK. BX is. The whole house is wired with BX from new. I'll call the village to ask what's acceptable.

I'm thinking I'll bring BX right out of the wall to the top knockout. I just gotta figure an elegant way to do that - maybe by bringing in through a recessed box.

How do you tape the duct connection if the hood is flush to the wall? You can't get behind it to tape it up. I put some Gorilla tape on three sides of the duct inlet where it meets the wallboard.
 
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One thing I didn't make clear is mine uses the rear 10x3 duct outlet to connect into the duct inside the rear wall.

That's why there's no way to tape up the connection short of finding a crew of professionally-trained mice. :rolleyes:
 
Just another I kinna win.

I broke down and replaced the hood becuase I kept setting the smoke detector when anything on the stove had a wisp of smoke.

So I got this 400CFM one vs. the standard 200 or 300 CFM.

So I never saw a reason to ut it on high speed (which you can barely tell is high speed.)

So this morning I made a steak for breakfast using the Alton Brown pre-heat to 500 degrees and "rocket hot" cast-iron pan method. (Oops. Now that I see it, I seared it for longer than that, 2-3 minutes a side but it was a thick cut.)

I put the hood on high. It definitely did a decent job sucking out the fumes.

The smoke detector went off anyway. :mad3:

I turned on the bathroom fan, opened up a couple windows a crack (it's 5 degrees outside),... It got a little cold. The hood is still running to clear the air.

I guess I need a commercial hood, but only for cooking like that. :rolleyes:

I guess I could try harder to keep the smoke down. :blush:

BTW, the steak was g-o-o-o-o-d.
 
My project for the afternoon is to replace a pre-framed door with another pre-framed door. Same spot, same size. Only difference is that I'm installing a fire-rated door in place of a hollow-core interior door.

Easy-out, easy in.

Wrong, hardware breath. Instead of framing the opening in a "standard" manner (with a bit of space on sides and top), it was framed flush. The new door is 3/8 inch too tall for the opening. Width appears tight, but OK. So I'm off to home-crapo for a single 2x4 to reframe the top opening. Oh, and whoever put in the original door used drywall screws to hold it in.... instead of nails. ANother couple of hours of work.

Grrrr.....
 
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