[N/A] Changed my Oil for the First Time [N/A]

[ARFlyer]

So I've been noticing a slow oil leak coming from my filter location for several weeks now. Since I'm currently on spring break I called up the local Subaru dealership to schedule a time to drop the car off. I basically got told screw off and when I asked if they could spare a mechanic for five mins to tell me if the leak was bad they said "NO". Well my girlfriends father got wind of this through a Facebook post and offered to let me use the local Air Force base auto hobby.

So, this morning I meet him at the front gate, got signed in, and proceeded to the shop to change the oil. Its a whole lot easier then I thought! It took maybe 30 mins top because we screwed around some talking to the manager. We found that my front CV boots are completely torn loose and loosing grease and power steering fluid. Also we found a few other items needing attention but can either be delayed or ignored.

My father didn't mind this either. We don't have the tools needed to do most of the work. Plus he said it would be easier at the base since I was going to have access to a lift.

Things Found

CV Boots - Deferred for Subaru
EVAP Charcoal Canister- NEVER REPLACING Subaru wants $300 for the part
Oil Pan Gasket- Deferred for Subaru
Right Rear Wheel Bearing - Deferred for Subaru
Left Rear Tire Leak- Going to a Tire Shop to get a Plug Tomorrow

The wheel bearing can only be done by Subaru. I have the factory instructions and its 30 PAGES.

The CV Boots are going to be left for Subaru. Dad said that would be a justifiable cost. He said some items need to be done by a actual mechanic.

The EVAP canister thats plugged is currently just a annoyance at the gas station. If I get a code here soon I'll just clear it.

P.S. As a bonus he pointed out the campers that military ID holders can rent for the weekend. He highly "suggested" that I get K to rent one for a weekend before she loses her dependent status.

 

[NJP_MAN]

Good stuff. I haven't changed my oil in 40k. It leaks/burns (not sure which) so much that I haven't changed it. I just add about 4 qts a month.

 

[ARFlyer]

I hadn't changed mine in 20k come to find out. I was shocked to find I've driven that much since August.

 

[Flymeariver]

I hadn't changed mine in 20k come to find out. I was shocked to find I've driven that much since August.

my poor truck has only 11k in two years. What do you do, drive that Subaru 24/7? Lol

 

[Flymeariver]

Good stuff. I haven't changed my oil in 40k. It leaks/burns (not sure which) so much that I haven't changed it. I just add about 4 qts a month.

4 a month? Id hate to see how your driveway looks after letting the car sit for a few days.

 

[NJP_MAN]

4 a month? Id hate to see how your driveway looks . after letting the car sit for a few days.

That's the thing, it's not bad. I pass emissions just fine and I have no oil stains. Can't tell where it's going. Driving 80 miles round trip daily doesn't help though.

 

[simtech]

That's the thing, it's not bad. I pass emissions just fine and I have no oil stains. Can't tell where it's going. Driving 80 miles round trip daily doesn't help though.

Leaky Valves?? Thats alot of oil though.

 

[NJP_MAN]

Leaky Valves?? Thats alot of oil though.

yes it is a lot of oil. I usually let the oil pressure light come on and then know its time to put about 3 quarts in. I'm strongly considering putting on a new filter. It's been on 40k.

 

[Luvrv8]

Not sure what model Subaru you are driving but a friend at the airport has one and asked me to help him replace the shafts. He has a outback model, NAPA had the reman half shafts complete for $36 per side. I helped him do both sides and we were done in 3 hours without a lift. You can save a few bucks doing this yourself and put that into flight hours.

 

[ron22]

yes it is a lot of oil. I usually let the oil pressure light come on and then know its time to put about 3 quarts in. I'm strongly considering putting on a new filter. It's been on 40k.

I will admit to doing something similar when I was young
You do realize that when the pressure light comes on you basicly have no oil pressure. I would say you will kill the car this way but since it is burning/leaking so much oil I do not think it really matters.
What kind of car and how many miles on this thing ?

 

[MAKG1]

The oil is being burned if it isn't on the driveway.

Waiting for the oil pressure light is a good way to inspect pistons quickly without removing any bolts. When it fails, it will be spectacular.

Check your oil at every fill up.

 

[DJTorrente]

Check to see if the wheel bearing can be replaced under warranty. That was a known problem on my '05 Legacy, and Subaru extended the warranty to handle replacements.

 

[RJM62]

So I've been noticing a slow oil leak coming from my filter location for several weeks now. Since I'm currently on spring break I called up the local Subaru dealership to schedule a time to drop the car off. I basically got told screw off and when I asked if they could spare a mechanic for five mins to tell me if the leak was bad they said "NO". Well my girlfriends father got wind of this through a Facebook post and offered to let me use the local Air Force base auto hobby.

So, this morning I meet him at the front gate, got signed in, and proceeded to the shop to change the oil. Its a whole lot easier then I thought! It took maybe 30 mins top because we screwed around some talking to the manager. We found that my front CV boots are completely torn loose and loosing grease and power steering fluid. Also we found a few other items needing attention but can either be delayed or ignored.

My father didn't mind this either. We don't have the tools needed to do most of the work. Plus he said it would be easier at the base since I was going to have access to a lift.

Things Found

CV Boots - Deferred for Subaru
EVAP Charcoal Canister- NEVER REPLACING Subaru wants $300 for the part
Oil Pan Gasket- Deferred for Subaru
Right Rear Wheel Bearing - Deferred for Subaru
Left Rear Tire Leak- Going to a Tire Shop to get a Plug Tomorrow

The wheel bearing can only be done by Subaru. I have the factory instructions and its 30 PAGES.

The CV Boots are going to be left for Subaru. Dad said that would be a justifiable cost. He said some items need to be done by a actual mechanic.

The EVAP canister thats plugged is currently just a annoyance at the gas station. If I get a code here soon I'll just clear it.

P.S. As a bonus he pointed out the campers that military ID holders can rent for the weekend. He highly "suggested" that I get K to rent one for a weekend before she loses her dependent status.

Good for you, on both the oil change and your future with the young lady.

When I was a kid, a lot of people changed their own oil. Most men I knew did, anyway. I still do it myself because I only change the oil twice a year, which I can only get away with only by using the right oil and filter. I use either Amsoil XL or Mobil1 EP synthetic oil, and Bosch DistancePlus filters.

I could, of course, let the mechanic do one of the two annual oil changes at inspection time (one car's due in the spring, the other in the fall), using the products I specified. The problem is that the car that gets the most miles (a 2001 Saturn with > 180K) is also the one on which changing the filter is a bigger pain in the butt. To further complicate things, I don't use the standard filter on the Saturn. I use a larger filter made for a Ford, but which has the same thread and bypass settings. Most mechanics are reluctant to use the "wrong" filter, which I can understand. But I want the extra carrying capacity because of the long oil change interval I use.

My other car is a 2000 Kia Sportage, and the oil change is so easy on that car that driving it to the mechanic would be more of a bother than just doing it myself. I probably could get away with a cheaper oil and filter on that one, at least in the summer, because it's mainly a winter rat. But the difference in price between good stuff and cheap crap is trivial.

Another thing I do once in a while on an old car (especially if it's already old when I buy it and I don't know the maintenance history) is pull the valve cover (the gaskets usually need to be replaced, anyway) and peek inside the engine. If it's cruddy inside, then I use a good-quality, full-synthetic diesel engine oil like Rotella T6, with a good filter like the Bosch DP, for one oil change interval of between 1,500 to 2,000 miles. The detergents in the diesel lubricating oils loosen up a lot of the crud. Don't do this for more than 1,500 or so miles, though, because the filter will probably get clogged up if you do.

High-mileage oils are a mixed bag. They swell the seals and reduce the leaks / burning a bit, but that in turn increases friction at those contact points. I usually avoid them. If I do use them (which is necessary if the car already has been using them -- switching back usually is not a good idea), I use a high-end, full-synthetic, high-mileage oil. They have better lubricating qualities to offset the increased friction. (Mobil1's high-mileage synthetic is a very good one for this application.)

As for your needed repairs: The EVAP canister won't effect performance much, if at all. But it will prevent you from passing an inspection in states that check the CEL (probably all of them) or the OBD2 system (quite a few of them) as part of the inspection. Once in a while you can get some extra life out of a canister if you pull it, let it sit in the sun for a day, and then tap it lightly with wooden mallet a few times, shake it out, and blow it out with low-pressure air. Usually it's just as easy to replace it, however. Check NAPA for the part. I'll bet they have it for < $50.00. It's just a can full of charcoal, after all. Installation can range from easy to a royal pain, depending on the car model.

The rest of the repairs are all very doable DIY products if you buy a manual or subscribe to Chilton DIY for your car(s), especially because you have access to a lift. Whether you want to do them yourself or not is really the question. You'll definitely save money, but you'll probably scrape up a knuckle or three. It really comes down to whether you enjoy mechanical work and have the tools.

A friend who swings a good wrench would be another good asset if you're new to this sort of thing. A case of their favorite beverage (or something along those lines) is customary in return for the favor.

-Rich

 

[MAKG1]

And FYI, if you have a shot wheel bearing, deferring that is a really bad idea.

When it fails, the wheel will come off.

They are a lot easier to change with a press, but it can be done in a pinch with much simpler tools. Some vehicles require turning the brake rotors installed on the vehicle when this is done. Most require an alignment if the suspension had to come apart to service the bearing.

 

[flyingron]

My old mechanic divided her customers into two groups: those who would turn a wrench on their plane and "just pilots."

The first time I needed an oil change I called her and she said "bring it over Saturday."
I watched her as she did it.

The second time I called she said "bring it over Saturday" and she handed me a screw driver and a bucket and told me I had seen her do it so I knew how.

Margy has done the grunt work on the annuals several times. One time shortly after annual we had a problem at a different airport. I went off to find the mechanic and Margy took to decowling the aircraft. When I returned with the mechanic he says "how do you get her to do that." I told him that she'd just finished doing the annual. I always figured I'd have come out ahead if I'd sent her to A&P school rather than graduate school (Education).

 

[Luvrv8]

The wheel bearings on the legacy were done too. I pulled the knuckle, took it to NAPA and we paid 40 bucks plus parts.

 

[Matthew]

That's another thing I miss about being a military dependent - access to a garage like that.

 

[jesse]

Just curious, as I'm not familiar with that car, what about it makes changing the wheel bearings so difficult? I've replaced one on at least every vehicle I've owned without issue. I would not defer a wheel bearing issue unless you like catastrophic driving events. What leads you to believe it needs to be replaced?

Oil pan gaskets are generally pretty simple unless there is something unique about that car that makes it more challenging.

I've never found something I can't fix on machines I own. Even the "really hard" looking stuff isn't that bad if you just take the time to do it.

Glad you learned something - it's too bad hardly anyone is teaching their kids anymore how to maintain machines. The generation before me has lead to America losing their man card, no doubt

 

[MAKG1]

Oil pan gaskets are generally pretty simple unless there is something unique about that car that makes it more challenging.

Not on AWDs, generally.

There are more parts under the engine than on a front wheel drive, particularly if the suspension is beefed up, and that generally requires removing the engine to get at the pan.

Oil pan leaks are FREQUENTLY confused with crank seal leaks, especially in back. On some engines, a valve cover leak in the back can look remarkably like an oil pan leak.

 

[ARFlyer]

Just curious, as I'm not familiar with that car, what about it makes changing the wheel bearings so difficult? I've replaced one on at least every vehicle I've owned without issue. I would not defer a wheel bearing issue unless you like catastrophic driving events. What leads you to believe it needs to be replaced?

The process needs some special tools that you can basically only get from Subaru. I have the factory instructions from the auto hobby manager. On the front it states you need these special tools. Both the mechanic and my girlfriends father had never see some of the tools. Plus the rear bearing is a tapered bearing. So pressing it you need to be extremely carefully according to the manager.

 

[JoseCuervo]

YouTube is the greatest invention for DIY auto mechanics. I am constantly impressed that anything you need to do for a backyard repair is detailed on video. Some of the people in the video are interesting characters and the production quality is sometimes lacking, but you can search for a "Wheel Bearing 2006 GMC" and find a video that will help you swap it out.

 

[MAKG1]

The process needs some special tools that you can basically only get from Subaru. I have the factory instructions from the auto hobby manager. On the front it states you need these special tools. Both the mechanic and my girlfriends father had never see some of the tools. Plus the rear bearing is a tapered bearing. So pressing it you need to be extremely carefully according to the manager.

Just regular tapered bearings?

Those can be driven in with short pipes, big sockets, or even punches or chisels.

it may be easier with the factory tools, but they often aren't all that special.

A big part of auto repair is making the appropriate tools and jigs where needed.

Never drive on the race surface where the bearing will be riding, and take it easy. Tapping a race in is not difficult and it doesn't require really hard hits.

Sometimes, you can heat the (cleaned) rotor in the oven and just slide the race in. You gotta be fast, though.

You may even be able to make a screw press of sorts if banging on races makes you nervous. Two pieces of stiff steel stock, a drill press, and a nut and bolt could do that. Maybe a grinder to trim it.

You may even be able to use the old race to drive the new one in. Then you don't care if you beat the crap out of it. You'll have to drive it back out, so make sure the fat side of the old race is facing the thin side of the new one.

 

[Bill]

Sometimes, you can heat the (cleaned) rotor in the oven and just slide the race in. You gotta be fast, though.

Works well, especially if you combine the heated rotor with putting the race in the deep freeze. And yes, work fast.

 

[MAKG1]

Works well, especially if you combine the heated rotor with putting the race in the deep freeze. And yes, work fast.

The deep freeze doesn't make much difference. You might cool it down 50 deg. The oven will warm it up 300 or more.

Now, if you had some dry ice, that might make a difference, but then you'll have to deal with the inevitable frost. And it's hard to cool something uniformly with dry ice, so it may not be round.

Obviously, this shouldn't be done with the seals in place.