N/A 1988 Dodge Dakota rear end making noise.

KeithASanford

KeithASanford

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I took my 1988 Dodge Dakota pickup to Jiffylube for an oil change. After leaving "the Lube" for the absolutely last time in my life, I experienced a high pitched squealing sound that I couldn't for the name of me trace to the rear end at the time. I made an appointment to have the truck seen by a mechanic I trust. He test drove it on a Wednesday and he assured me that I could continue to drive it short distances until he could see me over the weekend. So anyway, that mechanic was wrong and I no longer trust him, but the rear end ceased after just one short trip and started making metal sounds. I had it towed back to my house.

I've been told that it's easier to change out the entire rear end with one from the junkyard than it is to rebuild it with one of the kits. As you can probably tell by now, I'm no mechanic, but I've replaced pretty much everything else on this truck using the University of Youtube. I've owned this truck for about a year and I've spent(not counting fuel) a total of $1100 including purchase. It's a midlife crisis at this point.

So, if you wanted to keep the truck what would you do?

1. Youtube the rebuid, buy the kit and tackle it yourself
2. Youtube the rearend replacement, buy one in a scrapyard and tackle it yourself.
3. Write the check
 
If you have the tools I would go to the junkyard and get a whole rear end
 
Me personally, I would buy a complete rear end from a "salvage yard" (some people 'round here get a little testy when you use the phrase "junk yard" ;)) and swap it out as a whole unit. There's a lot of stuff you have to think about when replacing the internals of a pumpkin - gear backlash, crush sleeve torque, shim spacing, etc. etc. And that all assumes that you could get the darn pinion nut off in the first place.

Dropping an axle isn't too big of a deal - a few control arm bolts, spring shackles if it's a leaf-spring job, shocks, brake lines, and e-brake cable are pretty much it for the rear. If you go this route, please Please PLEASE use a good set of jack stands to support things when you're messing with the axle - and a couple of cinder blocks does not could as a 'good jack stand'.
 
CJones said:
Me personally, I would buy a complete rear end from a "salvage yard" (some people 'round here get a little testy when you use the phrase "junk yard" ;)) and swap it out as a whole unit.
Click to expand...

Awwwww... how sweet of you... you remembered!


I agree about switching out the entire thing. Not that difficult. I also suggest a brake refresh (new pads at the min) at the same time.

Check www.car-part.com for sources on a quality used one from a full service auto and truck part recycler. One guy in particular to look for in your area is Condon's Auto Parts in Maryland.
 
Did they drain the lube out of it? :eek:
 
KeithASanford said:
I took my 1988 Dodge Dakota pickup to Jiffylube for an oil change. After leaving "the Lube" for the absolutely last time in my life, I experienced a high pitched squealing sound that I couldn't for the name of me trace to the rear end at the time. I made an appointment to have the truck seen by a mechanic I trust. He test drove it on a Wednesday and he assured me that I could continue to drive it short distances until he could see me over the weekend. So anyway, that mechanic was wrong and I no longer trust him, but the rear end ceased after just one short trip and started making metal sounds. I had it towed back to my house.

I've been told that it's easier to change out the entire rear end with one from the junkyard than it is to rebuild it with one of the kits. As you can probably tell by now, I'm no mechanic, but I've replaced pretty much everything else on this truck using the University of Youtube. I've owned this truck for about a year and I've spent(not counting fuel) a total of $1100 including purchase. It's a midlife crisis at this point.

So, if you wanted to keep the truck what would you do?

1. Youtube the rebuid, buy the kit and tackle it yourself
2. Youtube the rearend replacement, buy one in a scrapyard and tackle it yourself.
3. Write the check
Click to expand...

Depends on tools and facilities, and if I wanted to change my gear ratio. The only way rebuilding the pumpkin is viable is if you are dissatisfied with the gear ratio, this is your opportunity to change that. Setting the gears isn't rocket science, although setting the tooth pattern is a bit counter intuitive with a hypoid gear. You need a dial indicator and some titanium dioxide powder mixed with brake fluid (makes the pattern indicator track I found) to set the gears.

Outside of that, I would buy a rear end from the salvage yard. If I had access to pro facilities to install it, I would, it is not 'technically difficult' but it has the potential to be 'physically difficult' and hydraulic, flaming, and heavy, implements of destruction are required, or at least really, really, helpful.

Without access to a good shop, what I would do is negotiate an installed price at the salvage yard. Even if they don't do it 'in house', there is a guy in back who will do it as a 'side job'.
 
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I'm with henning, rebuilding a rear-end is so time consuming, the only time you ever do it is to add modifications not available from the factory. Putting in lockers, or changing gear ratio.

Grab one from a salvage yard. You'll need a friend, floor jack (two is nice), two jackstands. Toughest part is breaking the old u-bolts loose. If you live in an area that sees snow/road salt you might have to cut them off.
 
Another way to go here is with a rebuilt rear axle - it gives a little more confidence in the life of the repair - the 88 Dodge is a bit old for the rebuilt vs salvage argument so maybe not the cheapest way to go here. I personally don't like salvage yard running gear parts with unknown mileage.
 
Clark1961 said:
Another way to go here is with a rebuilt rear axle - it gives a little more confidence in the life of the repair - the 88 Dodge is a bit old for the rebuilt vs salvage argument so maybe not the cheapest way to go here. I personally don't like salvage yard running gear parts with unknown mileage.
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If I drop the truck off at a shop and write a check, the "rebuilt rear axle" is what I would expect to get unless I specified something else, OR, they have a guy that is good with rear ends.

Once you know how to set up a rear end and have done a few, it really doesn't take too long, and isn't difficult. If the bolts, brake lines, and parking brake cable are in bad shape, I would definitely be considering just doing the pumpkin on the ease end. The main trick is understanding whether to move the ring or the pinion to move the contact forward, aft, in, or out, from where it currently is. It is NOT intuitive on a hypoid, and changes depending on where it is hitting, and the backlash need to end up correct as well, as does bearing preload. :rofl:

But once you understand and have a feel for how much shim pack you need (some like a Ford 9" only use a shim pack on the Pinion, and it is actually the pinion housing so you can set your new crush sleeve and still adjust your shims over and over without releasing it, the ring carrier moves side to side inside threaded cups, so easy to adjust and preload. Others are not so simple to deal with, however all the important principle issues are the same.) normally I can do a pumpkin rebuild in an hour if I have a lift and a press for the bearings.
 
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Rear end problems after an oil change? I doubt they would have any reason to mess with your rear axel. There should be 'witness marks' if they worked through the rust to check the fluid.

1988 Dodge Dakota? Longevity isn't usually one of their strong points. I'd evaluate how much you want to spend on it. Yes, it may be a known vehicle, mileage would factor in too. I realize there would be less rust down that way, but older Dodge vehicles give me the willies.
 
sourdough44 said:
Rear end problems after an oil change? I doubt they would have any reason to mess with your rear axel. There should be 'witness marks' if they worked through the rust to check the fluid.

1988 Dodge Dakota? Longevity isn't usually one of their strong points. I'd evaluate how much you want to spend on it. Yes, it may be a known vehicle, mileage would factor in too. I realize there would be less rust down that way, but older Dodge vehicles give me the willies.
Click to expand...

Sure they do, that's what Jiffy Lube does in their "Oil Change and 29 point service" or whatever they call it. Differential oil check and top off is always on the list. Whether they caused the damage is more likely not, but I would damn well be putting the fluid through a paper towel when I drained it, and if there was anything suspicious it would go to the lab, although most likely I would see it on the towel or lack of oil.
 
sourdough44 said:
Rear end problems after an oil change? I doubt they would have any reason to mess with your rear axel. There should be 'witness marks' if they worked through the rust to check the fluid.

1988 Dodge Dakota? Longevity isn't usually one of their strong points. I'd evaluate how much you want to spend on it. Yes, it may be a known vehicle, mileage would factor in too. I realize there would be less rust down that way, but older Dodge vehicles give me the willies.
Click to expand...

Actually, the pre-90 Dodge trucks (D100's and Dakota) with carb'd and TBI engines were pretty stout trucks. I have several local guys who operate them still and continue to be happy with them even as their mileage's creep into the mid to upper 200's. The 3.9L of that era was a good design.

When dodge when from the "square" body to the "rounded" one in 1994, that was the era when various failure rates got out of hand, and continued through into to about the 2007 model year. The introduction of the x.7 engines really bit them in the buttocks.

But if I saw a clean 1988 Dakota with a good service record, I'm not scared the mileage and would be making a fair offer on it. That is if I was needing a 2nd truck of that size.

I would definitely select it over the Ford Ranger and Chevy S10.
 
AggieMike88 said:
Actually, the pre-90 Dodge trucks (D100's and Dakota) with carb'd and TBI engines were pretty stout trucks. I have several local guys who operate them still and continue to be happy with them even as their mileage's creep into the mid to upper 200's. The 3.9L of that era was a good design.

When dodge when from the "square" body to the "rounded" one in 1994, that was the era when various failure rates got out of hand, and continued through into to about the 2007 model year. The introduction of the x.7 engines really bit them in the buttocks.

But if I saw a clean 1988 Dakota with a good service record, I'm not scared the mileage and would be making a fair offer on it. That is if I was needing a 2nd truck of that size.

I would definitely select it over the Ford Ranger and Chevy S10.
Click to expand...

So you use old trucks for parts delivery or newer ones? I always loved my old 67' 327 1/2 ton Chevy parts truck on the lot.:D What's funniest is that truck got 21mpg with a Powerglide and me driving like a kid.:dunno:
 
Rebuilding a rear end requires anal-retentive attention to gear mesh patterns, backlash, etc., and is an advanced operation, not appropriate for a "not a mechanic."

Getting a junkyard unit isn't too tough, but there are a few gotchas.

1. Every junkyard this side of Jupiter punches holes in the diff cover to drain them. You will need your old cover. If it's rusted through or cracked and that's why your diff grenaded, you'll have to buy a new one.

2. Watch gear ratios. Many trucks had multiple ratios available from the factory. Tall ratios make the truck accelerate poorly, and any change affects the speedometer. If the truck is 4WD, don't change the rear ratio unless you change the front as well.

3. Look for evidence of leaking, and inspect gear faces. Contact points should be smooth and polished, and the edges should be feathered. Any roughness or pitting in a contact area is cause to reject the rear end.
 
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My first vehicle was a '88 Dodge Dakota. My rear end went out in it as well after I had it for about six months. I was 16 years old at the time and lacked the tools and mechanical skills I have today. I tried to find a salvage one but couldn't find one anywhere that was the same one that I had. I finally sold the truck as is for a few hundred bucks.

Hope you're able to track one down. I'd def. try to just find another and swap it versus trying to rebuild.
 
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It's an 88' Dodge Dakota. Not exactly a desirable vehicle and probably not worth much more than its weight in scrap. Have you considered junking the truck and finding another small pickup? (Maybe a 90s Tacoma?)

Don't take it the wrong way. I just don't see the point in dropping good money on a clapped out 80s Dodge. I just sold a strong running 2000 Toyota Corolla for $800. Add a trailer and you have yourself a vehicle for work. Disconnect after work and you have a sweet ride to cruise for chicks.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
2 or 4wd? What engine?
Something you might think about is throwing in an 8.8 out of a late 80's Ford Exploder. Common and cheap as dirt, strong as they come. Plus you can change out your rear brakes to disk if you currently have drums. You'll have to change the spring perches, but any welding shop can do that for you. After lunching the Dana 35 in my Jeep a couple times, I replaced it with the 8.8 out of a pik'n pull for $150.
 
CJones said:
Me personally, I would buy a complete rear end from a "salvage yard" (some people 'round here get a little testy when you use the phrase "junk yard" ;)) and swap it out as a whole unit. There's a lot of stuff you have to think about when replacing the internals of a pumpkin - gear backlash, crush sleeve torque, shim spacing, etc. etc. And that all assumes that you could get the darn pinion nut off in the first place.

Dropping an axle isn't too big of a deal - a few control arm bolts, spring shackles if it's a leaf-spring job, shocks, brake lines, and e-brake cable are pretty much it for the rear. If you go this route, please Please PLEASE use a good set of jack stands to support things when you're messing with the axle - and a couple of cinder blocks does not could as a 'good jack stand'.
Click to expand...

AggieMike88 said:
Awwwww... how sweet of you... you remembered!


I agree about switching out the entire thing. Not that difficult. I also suggest a brake refresh (new pads at the min) at the same time.

Check www.car-part.com for sources on a quality used one from a full service auto and truck part recycler. One guy in particular to look for in your area is Condon's Auto Parts in Maryland.
Click to expand...

Henning said:
Depends on tools and facilities, and if I wanted to change my gear ratio. The only way rebuilding the pumpkin is viable is if you are dissatisfied with the gear ratio, this is your opportunity to change that. Setting the gears isn't rocket science, although setting the tooth pattern is a bit counter intuitive with a hypoid gear. You need a dial indicator and some titanium dioxide powder mixed with brake fluid (makes the pattern indicator track I found) to set the gears.

Outside of that, I would buy a rear end from the salvage yard. If I had access to pro facilities to install it, I would, it is not 'technically difficult' but it has the potential to be 'physically difficult' and hydraulic, flaming, and heavy, implements of destruction are required, or at least really, really, helpful.

Without access to a good shop, what I would do is negotiate an installed price at the salvage yard. Even if they don't do it 'in house', there is a guy in back who will do it as a 'side job'.
Click to expand...

AggieMike88 said:
Actually, the pre-90 Dodge trucks (D100's and Dakota) with carb'd and TBI engines were pretty stout trucks. I have several local guys who operate them still and continue to be happy with them even as their mileage's creep into the mid to upper 200's. The 3.9L of that era was a good design.

When dodge when from the "square" body to the "rounded" one in 1994, that was the era when various failure rates got out of hand, and continued through into to about the 2007 model year. The introduction of the x.7 engines really bit them in the buttocks.

But if I saw a clean 1988 Dakota with a good service record, I'm not scared the mileage and would be making a fair offer on it. That is if I was needing a 2nd truck of that size.

I would definitely select it over the Ford Ranger and Chevy S10.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the good advice!

My day vehicle is a 2004 Toyota Tacoma SR5 TRD. The Dodge is only a "run to the landfill" or "haul crap" vehicle, but it runs like a champ so I'm not ready to junk it. I have less miles on the Dodge(119X) than I have on the Tacoma(155X) so I'm not so stressed about replacing the rear end. I think the rebuild is beyond my ability so I'll find one in a salvage yard and will probably negotiate to have it installed.
 
Its so easy to rebuild on of these rear diffs.

I took my car into the shop for some maintenance. I was living in Pacific Grove at the time. I told the man I was heading to San Francisco when he was done. It was on a friday about 4 pm.

Anyway On the way back from San Francisco and traveling about 75 MPH down the high way the rear axle locks solid, stops the engine at 75 mph. The mechanic checked the rear axle and did not put the fill plug back in the axle and all the fluid came out.

This happened about 3 am around one of the San Jose exits. I found a closed gas station with a pay phone outside. Never again do I want to be stranded in San Jose at 3am. I could tell you all what happened while standing at that pay phone but it a long scary story.

Tony
 
I love doing drivetrain work. It is a nice break from all the electronic problems you get today.

The 71/4 rear end is also found in the chrysler sedans of the same age. Maybe Mike could check Hollander's to see if any are compatible. That may give you some more sources.

My default answer is to rebuild them and do it right. Just because the chances of finding a good rear end in a vehicle that old, especially a truck is pretty slim. They have all had some abuse, water intrusion, lots of miles, etc. I am all for replacement on a late model where a known good is easy to find.
 
The 3 most expensive words in aviation "might as well" apply to trucks too.

I'd just replace the whole thing with a used one, but while you're at it, at 119K, you "might as well" take a close look at the universal joints and wear parts (i.e brakes) while you're there.
 
jbarrass said:
The 3 most expensive words in aviation "might as well" apply to trucks too.

I'd just replace the whole thing with a used one, but while you're at it, at 119K, you "might as well" take a close look at the universal joints and wear parts (i.e brakes) while you're there.
Click to expand...

I'd look at the brake pads, if they are worn out, change them. If they have good meat left, roll on. No sense replacing parts that have life in them.
 
Chip Sylverne said:
2 or 4wd? What engine?
Something you might think about is throwing in an 8.8 out of a late 80's Ford Exploder. Common and cheap as dirt, strong as they come. Plus you can change out your rear brakes to disk if you currently have drums. You'll have to change the spring perches, but any welding shop can do that for you. After lunching the Dana 35 in my Jeep a couple times, I replaced it with the 8.8 out of a pik'n pull for $150.
Click to expand...

If you're going to move spring perches trom spring under to spring over, why not get an 8.8 off a Ranger where they are already in the right place?

This is getting silly. The guy has a blown rear end, and hasn't complained about stock features at all. There are many more mistakes to be made with unnecessary mods.
 
Yeah, he doesn't sound like he's looking for a project just the simplest, lowest cost, repair. In almost 40 years of fixing cars with junkyard parts, it has been extremely rare that the junkyard part failed me, typically something else goes long before.
 
MAKG1 said:
If you're going to move spring perches trom spring under to spring over, why not get an 8.8 off a Ranger where they are already in the right place?

This is getting silly. The guy has a blown rear end, and hasn't complained about stock features at all. There are many more mistakes to be made with unnecessary mods.
Click to expand...

Free disk brake upgrade. And the tubes off a Ranger might be narrower, not sure. And most Rangers came with a 7.5, which is weak. My personal opinion is if I have to turn wrenches to that extent, I want something better than I started with.
YMMV.
 
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Chip Sylverne said:
Disc brakes. And the tubes off a Ranger might be narrower, not sure. My personal opinion is if I have to turn wrenches to that extent, I want something better than I started with.
YMMV.
Click to expand...

I used to do that, and with some things I still do, but cars? Not anymore.
 
Chip Sylverne said:
Free disk brake upgrade. And the tubes off a Ranger might be narrower, not sure. And most Rangers came with a 7.5, which is weak. My personal opinion is if I have to turn wrenches to that extent, I want something better than I started with.
YMMV.
Click to expand...

At least some 4.0L Rangers after 1990 had 8.8s. Perhaps all of them.

Disk brakes on the back of an unloaded pickup without real good ABS are not better. Rear wheel skids become spins rather easily. So, now there is a balancing and tuning problem, plus a custom ABS program. To "fix" something that isn't broken.

And late 80s Ford RABS doesn't count. Most of the valves are plugged, which means no rear brakes at all. The module is not smart enough to detect it. You discover it only when you bleed or flush the rear. No one does the latter, and the brakes never wear out...
 
Drums are always worse than discs for locking up because they are 'self applying' by design. The leverage angle of the shoe combined with the drag multiplies the force you apply. Disc brakes didn't come about because they are more powerful, disc brakes came about because they allowed more finesse. Note, not until disc brakes made the scene did we need power brakes. Big trucks are mostly still on drums as well.
 
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MAKG1 said:
At least some 4.0L Rangers after 1990 had 8.8s. Perhaps all of them.

Disk brakes on the back of an unloaded pickup without real good ABS are not better. Rear wheel skids become spins rather easily. So, now there is a balancing and tuning problem, plus a custom ABS program. To "fix" something that isn't broken.

And late 80s Ford RABS doesn't count. Most of the valves are plugged, which means no rear brakes at all. The module is not smart enough to detect it. You discover it only when you bleed or flush the rear. No one does the latter, and the brakes never wear out...
Click to expand...

Terrific. You'd do what you'd do, I'd do what I do, and let's both be happy. I'm not going to be arguing with you about the relative merits.
 
KeithASanford said:
I took my 1988 Dodge Dakota pickup to Jiffylube for an oil change. After leaving "the Lube" for the absolutely last time in my life, I experienced a high pitched squealing sound that I couldn't for the name of me trace to the rear end at the time. I made an appointment to have the truck seen by a mechanic I trust. He test drove it on a Wednesday and he assured me that I could continue to drive it short distances until he could see me over the weekend. So anyway, that mechanic was wrong and I no longer trust him, but the rear end ceased after just one short trip and started making metal sounds. I had it towed back to my house.

I've been told that it's easier to change out the entire rear end with one from the junkyard than it is to rebuild it with one of the kits. As you can probably tell by now, I'm no mechanic, but I've replaced pretty much everything else on this truck using the University of Youtube. I've owned this truck for about a year and I've spent(not counting fuel) a total of $1100 including purchase. It's a midlife crisis at this point.

So, if you wanted to keep the truck what would you do?

1. Youtube the rebuid, buy the kit and tackle it yourself
2. Youtube the rearend replacement, buy one in a scrapyard and tackle it yourself.
3. Write the check
Click to expand...

Twice I have had this happen, the first time they were trying to tell me my rear end needed rebuilding and even presented me with a unsolicited estimate cause it was leaking. Well it never leaked a drop before on my clean garage floor, but when I brought it home this time it left a huge wet spot. Come to find out the cover bolts had all been loosened.....:mad:

The second time I brought my new F150 to a Quaker lube and they forgot to put the fill plug back on the rear end and a I took off for a business trip.. the rear end started humming and when I pulled over fluid was all over and dripping off the axle....:mad: After filling it back up the hum did not go away....but when getting my tires rotated I grabbed the rear wheel and noticed a clunk when moving back and forth...It was the darn U-Joint not the rear end (got lucky).

And even another time (third) after feeling vibration in the rear end of our mountaineer the ford dealer said the rear end in our mountaineer was going out and need to be replaced or rebuilt ($1400 estimate).... We decided to change out the fluid and add synthetic (was on a service bulletin not recall) and it did not go away....Just by chance I brought it to another local shop to look at it for another estimate....They found a bad wheel bearing and $175 later I was on my way with a quiet rear end..

So my take is find a good shop, get a second (or third) opinion and write the check (even though I could and have done rear end rebuilds before) .

As I get older my time seems to be getting more and more valuable and I would rather spend it with family and friends.
 
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MAKG1 said:
If you're going to move spring perches trom spring under to spring over, why not get an 8.8 off a Ranger where they are already in the right place?

This is getting silly. The guy has a blown rear end, and hasn't complained about stock features at all. There are many more mistakes to be made with unnecessary mods.
Click to expand...

I always enjoy these type of threads. Some of the recommendations tossed out are just completely ridiculous.
 
They are cheap. Junkyard swap.

It's not a easy garage thing unless you have the tools or some buddies to help you hold it up. However, it shouldn't be to expensive.

It is not worth "fixing" by repairing the existing rear end given the availability of junkyard parts, and the specialized tooling/knowledge to properly set up the new gears.

Just get a junkyard swap, or if you're not particularly attached to the truck, but another entire running truck from craigslist for $500.

KeithASanford said:
I took my 1988 Dodge Dakota pickup to Jiffylube for an oil change. After leaving "the Lube" for the absolutely last time in my life, I experienced a high pitched squealing sound that I couldn't for the name of me trace to the rear end at the time. I made an appointment to have the truck seen by a mechanic I trust. He test drove it on a Wednesday and he assured me that I could continue to drive it short distances until he could see me over the weekend. So anyway, that mechanic was wrong and I no longer trust him, but the rear end ceased after just one short trip and started making metal sounds. I had it towed back to my house.

I've been told that it's easier to change out the entire rear end with one from the junkyard than it is to rebuild it with one of the kits. As you can probably tell by now, I'm no mechanic, but I've replaced pretty much everything else on this truck using the University of Youtube. I've owned this truck for about a year and I've spent(not counting fuel) a total of $1100 including purchase. It's a midlife crisis at this point.

So, if you wanted to keep the truck what would you do?

1. Youtube the rebuid, buy the kit and tackle it yourself
2. Youtube the rearend replacement, buy one in a scrapyard and tackle it yourself.
3. Write the check
Click to expand...
 
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Buying a donor truck for $500 isn't a horrible idea, if you can find one that has $500 worth of good parts left.
 
Henning said:
Buying a donor truck for $500 isn't a horrible idea, if you can find one that has $500 worth of good parts left.
Click to expand...

It would probably be worth buying one for $500 and just driving the newly purchased truck and using your old one as a donor... This is a 88 dodge dakota we're talking about.
 
pj500 said:
It would probably be worth buying one for $500 and just driving the newly purchased truck and using your old one as a donor... This is a 88 dodge dakota we're talking about.
Click to expand...

His is low mileage and may be in better condition all around. Same either way really, just whichever makes more sense to become donor.
 
Now there's a good idea. When he takes all the good parts off he'll still have a shootin' car.
 
"Hello, I'm from the Smithsonian, apparently you have the only operable example of the 1988 Dodge Dakota. Would you like to donate it ?" 1988 Dodge Dakota is making a funny noise ???? Yeah, I'll bet it is !
 
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