Microphone jack cleaner help needed

Marc CYBW

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Marc CYBW
Got the DA40 out for some IFR practice and the pilot side mic jack is intermittent. Swapped headphones with the co-pilot "known good" headset. Same problem.

Put away the plane <grr> but got to wondering if the jack might be dirty. Any suggestions on what product to use to clean the contacts inside the jack?

Otherwise it's wait for Monday to have the avionics shop look at it.

Thanks
Marc
 
And make sure all the connections are tight. The jack is usually connected to the panel with washers and thin nuts (6 or 8 side, don't remember). If these are loose, the wiring can be loose.
 
I used to go to Radio Shack and get some TV tuner contact cleaner. Mechanical TV tuners no longer exist but they may still have some kind of contact cleaner.
 
I used to go to Radio Shack and get some TV tuner contact cleaner. Mechanical TV tuners no longer exist but they may still have some kind of contact cleaner.

TV contact cleaner included oil for lubrication that just attracts more dirt later and requires more "cleaner".

Use a cleaner that doesn't include lubrication for your electronics components you'll be happier. Or plan for it gumming up again and start a regular maintenance schedule.

Isopropyl Alcohol with almost no water (99% pure or better) is the typical "cleanest" electronics "cleaner" as long as no plastics that are attacked by it involved.

Sometimes the spring inside the jack is just worn out and it's time to replace it, too. But usually there's just crud inside.
 
Sometimes there's actually lint / fluff / etc inside, a pair of fine-point tweezers and a flashlight can be handy for getting it out.
 
I hear oranges clean well. Just bring a small container of Tropicana low pulp.

Sorry. Couldn't resist.

Alcohol. Put it in a little spray bottle. Needs to be at least 91% iso. higher if you can find it. blow some air in there gently when done. Don't put a q-tip in there. You'll be introducing more dirt and fuzz. Need enough to cause a drip to drain dirt. Catch it in a lint free towel or microfiber. Don't turn anything back on til dry.

Freon works perfectly. Too bad, huh?
 
It helps if you can visually inspect the jack closely. The contacts are generally nickel plated steel and if the plating is worn off any cleaning type fix will likely be short lived and replacing the jack (they're pretty cheap as aviation parts go) is the only "cure". But if the plating is intact I doubt that alcohol will help much, something slightly acidic (like the previously mentioned orange juice) will do a better job of removing the oxidation. With most jacks you can also bend the contacts to apply more force to the engagement which will help keep the oxidation off (inserting the plug wipes it clear) as well as help maintain good contact if the plug moves.

It's also quite possible that the actual problem is the plug itself. If the plug's surfaces are dull and/or tarnished you might solve the problem just by cleaning that up. Again something slightly acidic or mildly abrasive (a red rubber eraser works pretty well as does Scotchbrite) should restore the shiny more conductive surface needed.

BTW, "Tuner Cleaner" can do a good job with dirty jack contact surfaces but that does require some mechanical abrasion to work well (repeated insertion of the plug might work). And I wouldn't worry about the cleaner's residue attracting "dirt" as dirt is generally not a problem (inserting the plug will wipe any "dirt" off the surfaces) the real issue is oxidation and the cleaner residue will actually help ward that off.
 
Rubbing alcohol and a Qtip.

That can work for a short term fix to get dirt off, but rubbing alcohol will leave a residue and is not the best solution. Better to use a contact cleaner as that will also help with any corrosion on the contact. Of course if there is a lot of corrosion you need to use a mechanical process to clean it, aka red eraser from a pencil. But a lot of times that may remove the contact coating and you would be better served by replacing the connector itself.
 
'Just wondering if you can really isolate it down to the mic jack? How about the mic button?
 
Well, problem located and remediated.

The G1000 has a manual squelch option for the pilot and co-pilot audio (in addition to squelch over-ride for COM 1 and COM 2). Turns out that it had been activated in error and the pilot side squelch was too tight. Hence only certain voice patterns (mostly words staring in hard consonants) made it through the mic. One of our co-owners tracked it down and turned it off.

Problem solved.

Nice flight over the mountains for coffee (CYBW to CAA8) today.
 
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