MaxPulse vs PreciseFlight Pulselite

[DesertNomad]

I put new LED K2U wingtips on my Dakota. I asked my shop to use a pulse kit from PreciseFlight:

http://www.knots2u.net/precise-flight-pulselite-kit-pf1210-2405-2a/

What they actually installed was a MaxPulse kit:

http://www.knots2u.net/max-pulse-landing-light-controller-sec9200-000-a/

I am thinking the MaxPulse is overly complicated - I would never use most of the settings as I would just use on/off/pulse.

I am not sure if I want them to redo it - since they have already cut the plastic panel cover to make room for the switch.

Thoughts on these two pulse options?

 

[Clark1961]

I put new LED K2U wingtips on my Dakota. I asked my shop to use a pulse kit from PreciseFlight:

http://www.knots2u.net/precise-flight-pulselite-kit-pf1210-2405-2a/

What they actually installed was a MaxPulse kit:

http://www.knots2u.net/max-pulse-landing-light-controller-sec9200-000-a/

I am thinking the MaxPulse is overly complicated - I would never use most of the settings as I would just use on/off/pulse.

I am not sure if I want them to redo it - since they have already cut the plastic panel cover to make room for the switch.

Thoughts on these two pulse options?

I went with on/off/pulse on my 'kota.

Note to others, do not put the on/off toggle for the Aspen next to the wingtip on/off/pulse toggle switch...you will turn the Aspen off at the wrong time at least once...

 

[DesertNomad]

I am thinking to have them replace it. For one, I don't need 8 positions (when would ANYONE ever turn just the left light on, or just the right light??).

I would like a switch that just controlled the wingtips with on/off/pulse.

Next to this dial, they have put a 2 position switch that overrides the dial and just turns them on steady. So there are two things taking up panel space and they had to move my fan switch to the left and cram it in a small space.

I think they would need to order the lower right panel cover to get a fresh start and just put in the fan switch and a three-way toggle for the wingtips.

At least I gave them the part number so it is clear they ordered the wrong thing - even if the end functionality is the same.

 

[Stewartb]

I put new LED K2U wingtips on my Dakota. I asked my shop to use a pulse kit from PreciseFlight:

http://www.knots2u.net/precise-flight-pulselite-kit-pf1210-2405-2a/

What they actually installed was a MaxPulse kit:

http://www.knots2u.net/max-pulse-landing-light-controller-sec9200-000-a/

I am thinking the MaxPulse is overly complicated - I would never use most of the settings as I would just use on/off/pulse.

I am not sure if I want them to redo it - since they have already cut the plastic panel cover to make room for the switch.

Thoughts on these two pulse options?

I've had both. The only way I'd use the Pulselight system again would be if it was powering old school conventional lamps. With LEDs I'd absolutely positively use the MaxPulse. Lighter and simpler. I pitched the cheesy cardboard backing plate and had my favorite engraver make a phenolic placard to match my panel labels.

 

[DesertNomad]

Do you ever use more than 3 or 4 of the positions? Mine looks like that excel tot the right of it is a big toggle switch (white plastic like the main landing light in the switch rack) that overrides the Max Pulse and turns them on steady.

 

[Stewartb]

Off, landing, taxi, both, and B44. My lights are on the nose so the alternating flash doesn't make much sense. 88 and 120 aren't important to me. But hey, my radio has like 720 channels and I use 3 or 4. No big deal. In my opinion your shop did you a favor.

 

[DesertNomad]

Does the knob just come off to replace the placard? I like your labels better. I really wish they had not put in the switch next to it - makes no sense and they did it before asking me.

Aren't Taxi and Landing basically the same on yours - one has just the right light on and the other has the left light on?

 

[Ted]

I would have them replace it. I went with On/Off/Pulse. Way easier and I think in this case, simpler is better.

 

[Stewartb]

Yes, a very small allen wrench in a set screw releases the knob.

One's a pencil beam and the other's a flood.

 

[bnt83]

I'd probably charge more to install the Pulselight since there is more wiring, more mounting and similar cutting.

Mounting that power supply in a Piper looks

 

[Clark1961]

One thing I should add is that I went with HIDs rather than LEDs.

 

[DesertNomad]

I'd probably charge more to install the Pulselight since there is more wiring, more mounting and similar cutting.

Mounting that power supply in a Piper looks

Doesn't it mount behind the panel?

I saw the wiring instructions for the MaxPulse and the switch they have next to it is not needed - it just bypasses the 8-poisiton knob to turn both lights on. I think if I had been consulted, I would have not put that in there.

 

[Stewartb]

My Pulselight included a big heat sink component that had to be mounted in a concealed area. Probably necessary to operate a couple of 100w elements. The MaxPulse is simply a rotary switch. I wouldn't recommend the MaxPulse for conventional lamps as it'll fail in 20-30 hours if my own was any indicator. With LEDs the wig wag is crisp and the power draw is no problem for the switch.

 

[bnt83]

which is more work

Mounting a switch in the panel and running the wires to it?

Mounting a power supply in a remote area, running wires and bundling them, mounting a panel switch?

Often times there just isn't a wide open space ready for more equipment in a convenient to access area. That is just dreamland. In real life finding a place to mount additional equipment is often a real headache.


I'd take wiring the all-in-one switch any day over the remote power supply of the other unit.

Other concerns are maintenance. There are wires coming out of the power supply that must be spliced in. If you butt splice that stinker in with crimp splices and that thing dies, you are doing all that crap over.


The MaxDim thing looks like in connects to the wiring harness via ring terminals. No cutting, stripping and crimping to replace the switch.