How would you do it?

[Tom-D]

I have a stud broken off 2 threads above the surface? and it is stuck, really really bad.

it must be removed, and it can't be drilled where it is.

the stud is steel, the housing is aluminum. a 90 degree drill short bit can't get in there.

any new ideas?

 

[Jim Logajan]

The coefficient of linear thermal expansion of aluminum is about twice as large as for steel, so if they are heated the aluminum housing might expand faster than the steel stud. That might make it loose enough to grab what is left with a pliers and maybe unscrew.

 

[Tom-D]

The coefficient of linear thermal expansion of aluminum is about twice as large as for steel, so if they are heated the aluminum housing might expand faster than the steel stud. That might make it loose enough to grab what is left with a pliers and maybe unscrew.

I really don't want to mess those threads up. (yet)

Lets see what a few other say.

 

[Old Geek]

Can you TIG weld a nut to it? Then penetrating oil and/or mild heat.

 

[mondtster]

Can you TIG weld a nut to it?

No need to tig, just get a mig out and weld a nut to it. Then just back the stud out while things are still warm.

People do this job all the time on late model GM exhaust manifold bolts that get broken off below the surface.

 

[Tom-D]

TIG is all I have, other than stick, but that is the plan tomorrow.

I don't know if I can get the torch in there. If that fails it is an engine pull.

 

[Henning]

I have a stud broken off 2 threads above the surface? and it is stuck, really really bad.

it must be removed, and it can't be drilled where it is.

the stud is steel, the housing is aluminum. a 90 degree drill short bit can't get in there.

any new ideas?

Chisel.

 

[Silvaire]

Can't give much advise without knowing where it is. Is it on the accessory case?

 

[Dr. O]

A competent welder can stick weld the nut on. The rod can be bent to fit the space.
Get help!
Don't spend a bunch of money repairing your screw up when a few dollars up front hiring a welding shop to come out will solve it

 

[Graueradler]

Sometimes the opposite of applying heat is easier. Apply dry ice to the bolt.

 

[poadeleted21]

No need to tig, just get a mig out and weld a nut to it. Then just back the stud out while things are still warm.

People do this job all the time on late model GM exhaust manifold bolts that get broken off below the surface.

Done that many times

 

[Bill]

No need to tig, just get a mig out and weld a nut to it. Then just back the stud out while things are still warm.

People do this job all the time on late model GM exhaust manifold bolts that get broken off below the surface.

And hit it with penetrant while hot, it may suck some of it into the threads as it cools. I like a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone as a penetrant, if you can get the ATF in there, that is some slippery stuff.

 

[Tom-D]

A competent welder can stick weld the nut on. The rod can be bent to fit the space.
Get help!
Don't spend a bunch of money repairing your screw up when a few dollars up front hiring a welding shop to come out will solve it

My screw up? No. I'm in after the fact to repair a problem the owner caused.

I love owner maintenance I make half my yearly A&P wages fixing their F/Ups

 

[Silvaire]

Bolts get corroded and frozen in aluminum all the time, it's not necessarily somebody's "screw up". In many cases it doesn't matter what you do, even welding a nut on the stub will probably end up shearing the stud off flush unless you can coax it loose with an impact gun, which you probably can't since you said it's impossible to get even an angle drill in there.

The only advice I can give, not knowing the location, is that - if it is THAT stuck in there for gosh sakes DO NOT try using an easy-out because after you bust that thing off in there you'll really be screwed.

 

[Tom-D]

The only advice I can give, not knowing the location, is that - if it is THAT stuck in there for gosh sakes DO NOT try using an easy-out because after you bust that thing off in there you'll really be screwed.

When I arrived today, they had already tried to get it out with a pair of vice grips, now all we have is a knarrley nub sticking out.

I cut a slot in the top of the knarrley nub and tried to back it out. and failed.

So as we speak, they are pulling the engine.

 

[airguy]

My screw up? No. I'm in after the fact to repair a problem the owner caused.

I love owner maintenance I make half my yearly A&P wages fixing their F/Ups

Gee, would that be on one of those CERTIFIED birds that are supposed to be so safe, what with the professional maintenance and all?

 

[bluerooster]

Once you get it where you can get to it, it'll be easy. Just file it off flat, lefthanded drill bit, slow turning drill, and warm the aluminum.

 

[bluerooster]

No need to tig, just get a mig out and weld a nut to it. Then just back the stud out while things are still warm.

People do this job all the time on late model GM exhaust manifold bolts that get broken off below the surface.

We usually just blow 'em out with the torch. Bolt is steel, and will cut, cast iron won't. Then chase the threads with a tap, and good to go.

 

[bluerooster]

Bolts get corroded and frozen in aluminum all the time, it's not necessarily somebody's "screw up". In many cases it doesn't matter what you do, even welding a nut on the stub will probably end up shearing the stud off flush unless you can coax it loose with an impact gun, which you probably can't since you said it's impossible to get even an angle drill in there.

The only advice I can give, not knowing the location, is that - if it is THAT stuck in there for gosh sakes DO NOT try using an easy-out because after you bust that thing off in there you'll really be screwed.

Easy-outs are very brittle. A broken one can be removed in pieces with a punch, hammer, and magnet. (same with broken taps)

 

[Tom-D]

Gee, would that be on one of those CERTIFIED birds that are supposed to be so safe, what with the professional maintenance and all?

No, actually it is on a VeriEZ, not yet completed but close.

The 0-200 had an oil leak, and they thought it was the oil sump neck where it attaches to the cases. They snapped off the stud while trying to get the leak stopped.

 

[Tom-D]

Once you get it where you can get to it, it'll be easy. Just file it off flat, lefthanded drill bit, slow turning drill, and warm the aluminum.

I will manufacture a fixture that will allow me to drill it out and fit it with a new stud.

 

[Silvaire]

...The 0-200 had an oil leak, and they thought it was the oil sump neck where it attaches to the cases. They snapped off the stud while trying to get the leak stopped.

Okay, that is a screw up

Can't they just pull the sump off with the engine still mounted? Or maybe they've already done that?

 

[Tom-D]

Okay, that is a screw up

Can't they just pull the sump off with the engine still mounted? Or maybe they've already done that?

He told me he was going to complete the flight test period for the aircraft then overhaul the old 0-200. his schedule simply changed.
I'm going to teach him to do one of these.