Homeowner project: pond maintenance

[Areeda]

We have this little (4'x4') pond in the yard. It seems to have been added as an after thought by the previous owner, and my wife made it a bit deeper with unsealed cinder blocks about 20 years ago. It seems to be leaking so we want to patch and seal it. Since PoA is the best site for construction advice that I've found. I thought I ask here.

This is what it looks like:

The big problem is the cinder block is falling apart. A wire brush never seems to get down to solid material. I took a cold chisel to part of it and there is solid material past the surface.

I'm thinking a wire wheel on a drill (with a mask) could be used to take it and the scuzz on the back wall down to solid material. Then use concrete patch to build it back to original dimensions. I did find one small crack in the bottom that I will drill or chisel out big enough to hold a patch.

Then seal the whole thing with an epoxy pond sealer like Pond Armor http://www.pondarmor.com

I've never done anything like this so I'm looking for any advice or comments.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[Steve]

Find a local supplier for a garden pond liner that will custom cut one for you.

Similar to this outfit in TN

http://www.justliners.com/index.html

 

[Areeda]

Interesting idea. I hadn't thought about a liner. I see home depot has liners although they are only 20 mil. The place you mentioned will ship rolls of 30 mil. I will call and talk to those people in Tennessee and see how to attach it to the walls.

Thanks Steve!

 

[N801BH]

LIners are not cheap and pretty darn heavy too. Shipping could be quite high. The liner from Home Depot is probably for sealing a shower base and will present difficuties attaching it to your side walls as they are alot higher then any shower base. The last several showers I have done I used the roll on/brush on vinyl coatings that are out there. Works good, will seal tall side walls. Kinda pricy not definately cheaper then a liner. An inside tip that might help you is to buy the product that is for dipping screwdriver handles, etc in. I think its called plastic dip or something. Available most places, comes in various colors and a few cans @ 4 bucks each or so will do the job. YMMV.

Ben.

 

[Trapper John]

If you go with a liner, which I think is the best way to go, use a pond liner. Shower liner material is not UV-stabilized and isn't intended to be out in the sun - I'd be afraid it wouldn't last long.

To remove the bad material, I'd think about renting an electric chipping hammer. Use a bush head bit on the generally deteriorated parts and a regular chisel bit (not a moil point) on the crack. It'll go way faster than trying to use a wire brush in a drill, and make less dust but it will still be messy. You can patch back the block material you remove by parging on a good patching material like Thororite. Might have to go to a construction supply house to get that, Home Depot and the like probably won't have it.

 

[Areeda]

John,
I can't find anything on Thororite searching the web. What is it?

Joe

 

[Trapper John]

Sorry, I misspelled!

http://www.thoroproducts.com/pdf_info/INF_RITE_7.05.pdf

It's a patching mortar - other companies like WR Grace and Conspec make similar products.

 

[Areeda]

Thank you!

 

[wabower]

The pond is the same size as my MBR shower after the remodel job. They used a stock rubber shower pan liner under the tile, and IIRC we had to cut the hole to fit.

 

[Areeda]

The pond is the same size as my MBR shower after the remodel job. They used a stock rubber shower pan liner under the tile, and IIRC we had to cut the hole to fit.

Wayne,

I live in Los Angeles, water is just a little cheaper than AvGas, although if the DWP and our mayor 'Little Tony' get their way it may not be for long.

Joe

 

[wabower]

Oh. Sorry to hear that. I owned a house in Indian Wells for 12 years and never was able to figure out California's political strategy. I concluded pretty quickly, however, that my best interests weren't a part of it.

Wayne,

I live in Los Angeles, water is just a little cheaper than AvGas, although if the DWP and our mayor 'Little Tony' get their way it may not be for long.

Joe

 

[Ted]

Oh. Sorry to hear that. I owned a house in Indian Wells for 12 years and never was able to figure out California's political strategy. I concluded pretty quickly, however, that my best interests weren't a part of it.

He then stayed for the California girls.

 

[wabower]

He then stayed for the California girls.

Nope, I had already concluded that:

1. they were a downgrade from the OK/TX girls.
2. they weren't from California anyway.

 

[Areeda]

Nope, I had already concluded that:

1. they were a downgrade from the OK/TX girls.
2. they weren't from California anyway.

Well what can I say, My Girl is from Sweden but I don't think she or the kids will leave California.

I will say that OK/TX girls have more organically grown body parts. But when all you get to do is look it doesn't make much difference.

Joe

 

[Ted]

Nope, I had already concluded that:

1. they were a downgrade from the OK/TX girls.
2. they weren't from California anyway.

3. they weren't actually girls

 

[Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe]

Well the Ukraine girls really knock me out
They leave the West behind
And Moscow girls make me sing and shout
That Georgia's always on my my my my my my my mind.

 

[Areeda]

Well, at least I finished the project before the pond. We wanted multiple hose bibs in the back of the house. The project was started by a real plumber and his son years ago.

Here's a picture of the results. Please don't give me too much guff about the silly hummingbird and cat faucets because we all know when mama is happy we have a chance to be happy.

This is the longer run of 1" copper. It also shows the goof. That 1" pipe coming down and capped is for a future sprinkler project. It's at a 90° angle but I forgot that that run had to be attached to the top and the run around the corner to the side. Amateur!

Here's a shot off the deck showing the retaining wall and stairs we did last year. I did the digging and helped some with the concrete and block.

The other part that will get water:

 

[SCCutler]

Nice stuff!

I know it rarely freezes out there, but I also know that it *can* freeze.

Do you have a cut-off for the whole array somewhere upstream where you can turn off the water to the "bib array," and drain it?

Just askin' - you might only need it once or twice, but always easier to tend to when you are warm, and the need is hypothetical. One ball-valve and you're done.

 

[Areeda]

Good point Spike, I've been here 30 yrs (in Jan) and 4 times it's gotten below freezing for an overnight low and I've never seen a hard freeze that say killed citrus trees.

We do have a cutoff where the water comes out of the house but I've never seen a drain valve for outdoor plumbing here. Used to drive me nuts.

All the low parts of the copper were done when we started by a pro plumber. I suppose I could add one of those taps they use for ice machines where they drill into the copper and strap on a 1/4" doodad.

 

[Trapper John]

Those saddle valves cause more trouble than they're worth. If you ever think you're in danger of freezing the pipes, just turn the hose bibbs on to a dribble and the flow will keep them from freezing.