Homebrew Static Wicks

weirdjim

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weirdjim
About 25 years ago (when I still had dark brown hair) I wrote a piece for Kitplanes on how to build static wicks with carbon film resistors, solder lugs, and cut-off needle points.

The Kitplanes archive at HQ was in a fire 10 years ago and all issues prior were destroyed.

I thought I kept an original copy of everything I ever wrote, but I can't find that article to save me. If any of you have a copy, I'd really appreciate a copy of a copy. Postage gladly paid.

Thanks,

Jim
 
Any luck?

Wouldn't just a frayed end fine wire stainless steel cable serve the same purpose? In this application not sure what purpose the resistor would serve.
 
Any luck?

Wouldn't just a frayed end fine wire stainless steel cable serve the same purpose? In this application not sure what purpose the resistor would serve.

The idea is to dissipate the power behind the little teeny lightning bolt BEFORE it exits the airframe. The stainless wire would certainly provide a jumping off place for those excited electrons, but they would create the same arc noise if they jumped off the aileron. The resistor dissipates that energy as a little tiny bit of heat before letting the now barely excited electrons off the airframe.

No luck. Not yet.

Thanks,

Jim
 
Tried ebay? There are Kitplanes issues from the '80s, but you didn't give a month, so I don't know if that exact issue is available.
 
Tried ebay? There are Kitplanes issues from the '80s, but you didn't give a month, so I don't know if that exact issue is available.

My first article for Kitplanes (having been traded from Private Pilot for another player and an undisclosed amount of cash) was October issue 1985.

Unfortunately, I don't have a month OR a year, I just know it was "a while ago", and I'm guessing about 20-25 years or thereabouts. But that is a truly rectorandom guess.

Jim
 
The idea is to dissipate the power behind the little teeny lightning bolt BEFORE it exits the airframe. The stainless wire would certainly provide a jumping off place for those excited electrons, but they would create the same arc noise if they jumped off the aileron. The resistor dissipates that energy as a little tiny bit of heat before letting the now barely excited electrons off the airframe.

Ahhh... of course, thank you for the explanation.

Do you recall what resistor value you were using? Some of mine are getting a bit long in the tooth.
 
Do you recall what resistor value you were using? Some of mine are getting a bit long in the tooth.
What airplane? You could try just removing them.

I was reading something recently (need to dig around the internet to find it again) that basically said static wicks for most GA aircraft are about as useful as winglets. I believe it had something to do with the speed that most piston airplanes travel at doesn't really generate enough static electricity to create a problem. It was either that or a change in the quality of radio equipment, but I believe speed was the bigger issue.

I was looking into it shortly after I bought my B55 Baron. It was built in '78 and never had static wicks installed. Since I bought it, I have flown in all kinds of IFR weather including near convective activity and never had a problem with radio reception. Previous owner(s) flew it all over the country fur business and obviously never had a reason to add them.

Just a thought.
 
Ahhh... of course, thank you for the explanation.

Do you recall what resistor value you were using? Some of mine are getting a bit long in the tooth.

Are you saying that you built some of mine many years ago from that article? Do you still have it around?

Anything from 100kohm to 1Mohm will work just fine; I prefer to split the difference at 470k.

Jim
 
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What airplane? You could try just removing them.

Boy, ain't THAT clever.

I was reading something recently (need to dig around the internet to find it again)

And I can post on the 'net that I'm a French model. Bone juur.

that basically said static wicks for most GA aircraft are about as useful as winglets.

That's why Rutan (who is a better engineer than I ever HOPE to be, and obviously leaves you so far in the dust that bottom looks like top) has used them on everything from the 'Viggen through White Knight.

I believe it had something to do with the speed that most piston airplanes travel at doesn't really generate enough static electricity to create a problem. It was either that or a change in the quality of radio equipment, but I believe speed was the bigger issue.

The Greeks found 3000 years ago that moving a dry insulator over a solid conductor created small sparks. Most of us have found that shuffling our feet over a nylon carpet on a cold dry day will draw half an inch arc to a grounded outlet. Not much speed in either case, is there?

As to "better quality" if you can find a way to make AM radios impervious to arc noise, the Nobel folks need to hear about you.

I was looking into it shortly after I bought my B55 Baron. It was built in '78 and never had static wicks installed. Since I bought it, I have flown in all kinds of IFR weather including near convective activity and never had a problem with radio reception. Previous owner(s) flew it all over the country fur business and obviously never had a reason to add them.

And I've been on this earth for seven decades and never once charged by a rhinoceros. It must be the salt I sprinkle over my shoulder every morning.

Point? Come on here with hard data and something more than one isolated personal experience and we can talk. Otherwise, it approaches the quality of an old wives' tale.

Just a thought.

Agreed.

Jim

.....
 
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Well, you're just a peach there Jim. I would have expected better than that from you, but you obviously have a vested interest.....getting royalties from the article I suppose.

All I was pointing out was that there are a fair amount of GA aircraft operators who have over the years come to the conclusion that static wicks are not worth the time or money to install and maintain.
 
Well, FWIW, this guy thinks static wicks are a total PITA...
:)
(Image deleted. It weirded me out too much. No pun intended)
 
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Well, you're just a peach there Jim. I would have expected better than that from you, but you obviously have a vested interest.....getting royalties from the article I suppose.

All I was pointing out was that there are a fair amount of GA aircraft operators who have over the years come to the conclusion that static wicks are not worth the time or money to install and maintain.


Damn! I think OP needs a wick riveted up his butt to dissipate some of that snarky static he just discharged on you. :rofl:

I see them on small planes, and I don't see them on many more.

They will not be going on my classic. :no:
 
Wow, Jim.

Just.... wow...

Nevermind. Didn't expect that from you, people surprise you sometimes.
 
Yeah, a mainstay of Usenet, and does not know how to use a "quote" tag.
 
All I was pointing out was that there are a fair amount of GA aircraft operators who have over the years come to the conclusion that static wicks are not worth the time or money to install and maintain.

I agree with this.

ALL of them that I have seen installed on SEP metal aircraft aren't even installed "correctly" where the area the base sits on the skin must be free of paint to ensure proper bonding. Jets use a conductive epoxy resin thats about $100 per ounce to install static wick bases. Then they use a megaohm meter and actually check the base conductivity about every 12 months.


With all that in mind I highly doubt the static wick bases you see nailed to a GA airplane do much. If you were paying for the bonding checks, which actually ensures they will work, you'll find out they are a frequent PIA to maintain.


Tell that to the guys who wrote DA40 MEL :) Certain quantities are listed for day VFR/night VFR/IFR



If those are nailed to a flight control, it may not be a static issue at all but flight control balance issues.
 
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My skin crawls at the thought of someone needlessly drilling holes in my flight controls to install static wicks. These flight controls usually weren't balanced afterwords either, which also adds to my distain of them. I've seen them installed with poorly shot blind rivets, some installers even dented the skin on the opposite side since there wan't enough clearance for the blind rivet.



I think the Cessna SB's didn't require flight control balancing but I may be wrong.
 
What a joke. Installed right over top of insulating paint and the wick is not replaceable without removing the base.

I've also seen some installed like this which were missing the bonding braid between the flight control and the airframe. When that exists the only way static can even discharge is through the bearings of the flight controls which may not be low enough resistance to work.:rolleyes2:

 
Well, you're just a peach there Jim. I would have expected better than that from you, but you obviously have a vested interest.....getting royalties from the article I suppose.

All I was pointing out was that there are a fair amount of GA aircraft operators who have over the years come to the conclusion that static wicks are not worth the time or money to install and maintain.

Wierd Jim is like a box of chocolate, you never know what your gonna get.

Same one that called Ted a Fool IIRC.
 
Well, you're just a peach there Jim. I would have expected better than that from you, but you obviously have a vested interest.....getting royalties from the article I suppose.


I doubt a vested interest would write an article for the brethren (and the sistren) showing how to make a $25 static wick for 5¢. Ain't much money in that. Royalties? Nope. Once the article is published we don't get residuals.

Sorry about the tone; sometimes I think having spent over 50 years in the avionics business gets me wearing a hair shirt with a hair trigger. /niceguy mode ON/

As for the riveting-in-place-over-paint trick, that's just plain stupid to think that would work. Mine get assembled with a solder lug and then screwed into metal so that they can be replaced without disassembling the airplane AND insure metal-to-metal contact.

The same article showed how to make bonding cables between the moveable surface and the airframe using either solder-sucker copper braid or tinned copper braid stripped from coax.

Besides being ornery, I'm a cheap bastard. :yes:

Jim
 
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As for the riveting-in-place-over-paint trick, that's just plain stupid to think that would work. Mine get assembled with a solder lug and then screwed into metal so that they can be replaced without disassembling the airplane AND insure metal-to-metal contact.


I think I've seen more Cessnas with them installed incorrectly as an afterthought than correctly.
 
I have them on the Arrow but I have no idea of they are installed correctly or not.
 
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