fairing edge trim

GeorgeC

GeorgeC

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GeorgeC
What adhesive to use? I heard Pliobond is good...
 
The trim on mine looked very similar to the rubber trim around the vinyl around the windows.
 
So, they ended up taking care of this at annual back in January, but whatever adhesive they used failed after a month or two. I reattached it with some RTV, which also failed recently. I pulled the trim piece out today, and whatever glue the shop used left a hard yellow/brown residue. I have no idea what it is or how to get it off the metal.
 
GeorgeC said:
I have no idea what it is or how to get it off the metal.
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Various chemicals (MEK, Toulene, or the old Goof Off remover) can be used but be careful they can react with the paint sometimes.
Did the glue pull off the rubber? What type "rubber" is the trim made of? Picture?
 
Yeah, the glue came off the trim easily. I could chip some of it off the paint with my fingernail. I'm concerned about solvent fumes fogging the windscreen... If I'm reading the MSDS correctly, "styrene/butadiene copolymer" synthetic rubber. Can I just apply new contact cement on top of whatever the old stuff is?
 
It is
GeorgeC said:
So, they ended up taking care of this at annual back in January, but whatever adhesive they used failed after a month or two. I reattached it with some RTV, which also failed recently. I pulled the trim piece out today, and whatever glue the shop used left a hard yellow/brown residue. I have no idea what it is or how to get it off the metal.
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This adhesive remover is great to use and always works without hurting the paint. I have been using it for years and on many surfaces.
My wife uses it without any gloves to remove adhesive and marker marks off of antiques and other stuff she sells. Does not smell real bad.
Great stuff and will remove 45 year old contact adhesive without hurting the subsurface. let it dwell on the surface and it will work.
IMG_0055.JPG
 
3M black super weatherstrip works well for bonding rubber to metal and painted surfaces.

Some of my fairings are edged with a u shaped vinyl channel that has metal barbs inside to grip the fairing. No adhesive needed, just press it on.
 
Pretty sure this is 40 year old contact cement that was holding the wore out original weather striping on.
IMG_0061.JPG

This was after 5-10 mins of scrubbing with a couple red shop rags and the remover. softens it and does not hurt the paint. It is made to help remove decals from car and truck paint . I use it at work, truck decals.
IMG_0066.JPG
 
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GeorgeC said:
Can I just apply new contact cement on top of whatever the old stuff is?
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Not unless you want to keep on doing this. Prep is everything especially cleaning/prepping the channel on the rubber.
Once prepped, you can use a cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) which works on most rubbers. But make sure you dry fit and index first as sometimes its a one shot deal. If regular super glue fails look for some PermaBond 105.
Perhaps cut a test piece of the rubber and prep/glue it to a scrap piece of metal and leave it outside for a spell. If it holds use that technique?
Regardless, I've found 99% of these type failures are a lack of proper prep and 1% use of the wrong type adhesive.
 
This what my door jams looked like after cleaning all adhesive off. No paint at all was removed so that is what it looked like when the original seal was glued in in place.
I used a strip of black 3M weather stripping on both the door and the weather striping. Give both sides time to flash and stick them together, makes for permeant installation.
IMG_0056.JPG
 
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Bell206 said:
Not unless you want to keep on doing this. Prep is everything especially cleaning/prepping the channel on the rubber.
Once prepped, you can use a cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) which works on most rubbers. But make sure you dry fit and index first as sometimes its a one shot deal. If regular super glue fails look for some PermaBond 105.
Perhaps cut a test piece of the rubber and prep/glue it to a scrap piece of metal and leave it outside for a spell. If it holds use that technique?
Regardless, I've found 99% of these type failures are a lack of proper prep and 1% use of the wrong type adhesive.
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Thanks. I'll try some stronger solvents on a qtip. I figured CA would be too brittle for outdoor temp swings. Once it's cleaned up, it should be easy enough to get it in position and then lift up the outside half of the trim enough to lay a bead of adhesive.
 
Bell206 said:
Once prepped, you can use a cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) which works on most rubbers.
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GeorgeC said:
I figured CA would be too brittle for outdoor temp swings.
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Loctite "Black Max" is a modified flexible CA specifically made for rubber. It works better than anything else I've tried. Clean surfaces are very important (clean both the metal and the rubber with solvent, and don't touch the surfaces to be bonded after cleaning as natural skin oils will weaken the bond).

The dried yellow stuff may be the old milspec MMM-A-121 adhesive, commonly used back in the day to glue rubber to metal (not very effectively as I recall).
 
GeorgeC said:
So, they ended up taking care of this at annual back in January, but whatever adhesive they used failed after a month or two. I reattached it with some RTV, which also failed recently. I pulled the trim piece out today, and whatever glue the shop used left a hard yellow/brown residue. I have no idea what it is or how to get it off the metal.
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That would be 3M 08001 Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, AKA Gorilla Snot. It was probably applied to the metal and allowed to become tacky before the trim was installed (which is incorrect), because it's actually a really good choice for that application.

MMM08001-1.jpg


Supposedly it can be removed with 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner 08984. I haven't tried it.
 
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3393RP said:
That would be 3M 08001 Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, AKA Gorilla Snot. It was probably applied to the metal and allowed to become tacky before the trim was installed (which is incorrect), because it's actually a really good choice for that application.

MMM08001-1.jpg


Supposedly it can be removed with 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner 08984. I haven't tried it.
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I used the same stuff only in black because it matches the seals.
That adhesive remover I posted is much better than any of the rest and I have tried them all over the years even the 3m stuff. I use it a lot, so handy to have around.
 
3393RP said:
It was probably applied to the metal and allowed to become tacky before the trim was installed (which is incorrect), because it's actually a really good choice for that application.
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At least the trim was reinstalled incorrectly anyway :rolleyes:
 
I use both 08001 and 08008 frequently in my restoration. My unscientific conclusion is black is harder and more permanent than yellow.
16998924456025025216461738920066.jpg
 
Goof off works, albeit slowly. The shaft of a qtip makes a decent field-expedient scraper. There are a couple of mesas of what looks like CA to me; they'll take more work.
 
After getting everything cleaned up, I applied a bead of pliobond and then held everything in position with painters tape, as the underside wanted to droop away from the wing. I had a moment of paranoia and worried that the evaporating solvent in the glue would fog up the windscreen, but it didn't. I was able to untape it yesterday after a week or so, and am happy with the result. Thanks @Bell206!
 
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