Cessna Window Linkage

etemplet

Pre-takeoff checklist
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Oct 18, 2013
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etemplet
I have a Cessna 150 Aerobat that I recently purchased and.... it's gets kinda warm inside the cockpit. LOL I'd like to get the windows where I comfortably leave them open in flight. The left side has linkage and works but flaps a bit in the breeze. I remember some linkages that locked into position but I am not sure if that was on the 150. The right side window doesn't have any sort of linkage attached so I can't really open that window inflight. I Plan on heading to the airport and have a look and take some pictures.

I'd like to make both window mechanics to be a little more robust, as in, not flapping in the breeze.

I saw the A/C units made from an ice chest but... I just want to be able to fly with the windows open or at least open them when we are taxing without them swinging open and close and flopping around.

Help would be appreciated.
 
Don't have your answer but it'd be nice if they made door stewards for windows. Those things are great!
 
Tim you just gave me an idea... LOL I have a door problem as well. :D
 
Dont know where to buy them, but the stock linkage has a spring that should hold the windows open. Your spring either broke or is worn out.

Might try yingling cessna for the parts.
 
Dont know where to buy them, but the stock linkage has a spring that should hold the windows open. Your spring either broke or is worn out.

Might try yingling cessna for the parts.

The spring breaks. Cessna sells new springs. Getting them in there is a pain.

The peg on the link that the spring pulls on, and that slides in the slot in the windowframe, tends to gall the aluminum frame and gets draggy. Rubbing a bit of paraffin wax on that slot makes it run smooth.

Dan
 
I remember people pulling that linkage off and letting the window open fully to the wing.
 
I found a window arm for $35.00 on ebay with the spring. After much due diligence, disassembly, and inspection I am going to modify the window slot, make a bushing and perform a thorough cleaning of the door and window area, especially the aluminum.
 
I found a window arm for $35.00 on ebay with the spring. After much due diligence, disassembly, and inspection I am going to modify the window slot, make a bushing and perform a thorough cleaning of the door and window area, especially the aluminum.

Good, should work well when you're done.
 
I remember people pulling that linkage off and letting the window open fully to the wing.

I've done enough full-open (photo platform) windows on most of the Cessnas. WIth the window arm disabled, the window opens ALMOST fully to the wing. There is just enough of an airflow to let the window float just a few cm below the wing and not bounce off the wing.

Dunno what would happen in a stall; don't want to find out.

Jim
 
I got R Did. :) Some machine work made new plastic bushings for a smooth movement open and close, Put my Dremel Christmas present to use in making the slots even... I'm likin it !! I also repainted the window frames and they came out GREAT !! Color match really works !! I was concerned about the match and was hoping for anything close but it is perfect. Some kind of VW color.... go figure ??

On the spring replacement.... it was easy. I just made the spring attachment hole a bit elongated with my Dremel. It was a snap and will have no affect on the spring remaining in position.

Thanks for the help guys !
 
I remember people pulling that linkage off and letting the window open fully to the wing.

That's all I did on my old straight tail 150. Flew fine that way. IDK if it works different on the larger doors/windows of newer models.
 
Can someone post a picture of what it looks like inside that slot?
My c-152 has the linkage but it just fits very sloppily in the slot on the window frame. Something is missing, but I don't know what it is.
Thanks.
 
I got R Did. :) Some machine work made new plastic bushings for a smooth movement open and close, Put my Dremel Christmas present to use in making the slots even... I'm likin it !! I also repainted the window frames and they came out GREAT !! Color match really works !! I was concerned about the match and was hoping for anything close but it is perfect. Some kind of VW color.... go figure ??

On the spring replacement.... it was easy. I just made the spring attachment hole a bit elongated with my Dremel. It was a snap and will have no affect on the spring remaining in position.

Thanks for the help guys !

:yikes: I hope you had a 337 approved first!:nono::rofl:;)
 
Somebody needs to make window stewards like the door stewards.

The door steward mod on the 18x is a must have imo. You wouldn't believe the comments I get from every pilot that see's them. They sell themselves.

Somebody with the know-how PM me. I got the capital. ;)
 
Somebody needs to make window stewards like the door stewards.

The door steward mod on the 18x is a must have imo. You wouldn't believe the comments I get from every pilot that see's them. They sell themselves.

Somebody with the know-how PM me. I got the capital. ;)

If you're talking about a little nitrogen strut, that would be easy enough.
 
If you're talking about a little nitrogen strut, that would be easy enough.


Precisely. That's all the door stewards are. Like the struts on some car hoods.

Since they're STC'd, the door stewards cost five times what one off a Chevy Nova cost.

such is life ... :mad2:
 
Precisely. That's all the door stewards are. Like the struts on some car hoods.

Since they're STC'd, the door stewards cost five times what one off a Chevy Nova cost.

such is life ... :mad2:

The real issue with the door window is the strength of the frame and getting one small and lightly charged enough that you don't bend the frame or crack the window with it. I think a bungee system may be just as effective, simpler, and cheaper.
 
Can someone post a picture of what it looks like inside that slot?
My c-152 has the linkage but it just fits very sloppily in the slot on the window frame. Something is missing, but I don't know what it is.
Thanks.

There is nothing inside the slot except the spring. My slot was excessively worn. The pin diameter is around (.187") I had to open the slot up to around (5/16") to make the slot a uniform width from top to bottom (within a few thousandths of an inch) Then I machined a plastic bushing with a flange on it (to fit over the .187" pin) so there would be no more metal to metal contact between the arm and the window frame. It is very slick. A member on the 150/152 has a post on the procedure.
 
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