Calling PoA HVAC gurus...

denverpilot

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DenverPilot
Since there's always an amazing depth of knowledge here...

Most folks here know that when my dad passed we found ourselves liking his little retirement home out on the prairie and moved in a couple years ago.

Dad bought the place as a repo. It sat empty for at least two years, maybe three. (Mentioning because maybe critters...?)

House is a manufactured home on top of a large basement. Which means the original propane furnace was a hallway furnace in the upstairs hallway. Noisy, not up to the task, etc. We found handwritten notes from Dad where (since he was retired) he had time to shop around for a bigger closet furnace with better blower, etc. But he never got it installed. The hint was that he was also having an airflow problem of low flow at various registers.

Recently we decided to talk to residential HVAC companies about how best to upgrade. A few wouldn't touch it because "we don't do closet furnaces".

Nothing was off the table. Tear out and move furnace to basement utility area including ripping out the basement ceilings to run ductwork, etc. Whatever. We're going to be here a while.

For info, there's also a good newish 3 ton Trane A/C outside that probably has a bad capacitor on the blower motor or a dead motor. (Watched 6PCs thread with interest.) We haven't used it since we moved in, there's only about a month of hot summer weather where it's hot enough to worry about it. Eventually we'll repair it. It's disabled.

Small local HVAC company owner stopped by to evaluate and said he had a great mechanically oriented guy who could get a new Bryant high efficiency furnace into the closet space. He wanted to start there, and said we could do that and see how it behaved. Variable speed blower capable of very high CFM in a properly designed duct system, etc. We also knew that return air is a problem, return in a closet furnace is the door/front. So we had him return there and also run ducts thru a pantry to the kitchen and put up a high 24" grate above the kitchen cabinets with two large round ducts behind it. Obviously there will be some input air restriction but not awful.

During install they replaced the coil box for the A/C and tech said there was coolant when he pulled vaccuum to keep the refrigerant outside in the A/C unit while working on the plumbing.

Here's a photo of how well the guy got 10lbs of stuff in a 1lb bag as grandpa used to say. Return is top, furnace is set up to downdraft into the ductwork in the floor. What you can't see is the additional return added to the right that goes thru the pantry to the kitchen. (And yeah I know they tore up the closet frame a bit. That's my project to repair the frame and build a louvered door that covers the closet up and allows unrestricted airflow. Custom job. Probably won't get to that for a few weeks.)

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After install, we run the blower test and get a high static pressure alert. The system is claiming a static pressure of over 1" at max RPM. It will back down and protect itself so damage is not a problem. But we start hunting the problem.

Duct work. There's one trunk line of rectangle fiber box that runs the length of the upstairs that has enough airflow to blow to the top of your head easily. The second trunk line upstairs, there's a trickle of heat and air from registers and almost zero airflow.

Basement, same problem. Basement was tapped into ductwork in an unknown way using 4" round pipes to every register in the ceiling. Some heat, almost no airflow.

To both the installer and I, the problem seems to be a large blockage somewhere that's keeping air from easily moving to 3/4 of the duct system. If it were a break the static pressure wouldn't be high. It'd just be dumping air into the space in between the floor upstairs and the ceiling downstairs and pressure would be normal or low.

Could be a long dead (no smells!) critter. Could be a wasp nest. A rag stuffed somewhere it shouldn't be during winterization and seal up of the house when it sat empty and foreclosed. Who knows.

The small company doesn't have duct inspection gear. Cameras etc. He had a typical short camera on a flexible line that we looked in every register with, as far as we could, to try to see trunk interconnects etc, couldn't go far enough on any of them to map interconnects at all. No blockages seen.

Still willing to rip out the basement ceiling. But...

I've got this gut feel that there must be some type of HVAC company with the ability to use snakes and cameras to map out the system and look for a massive blockage or problem. Would the HVAC folks here agree?

I've done some basic Googling and not found much. (Texas however, seems to have a billion of them. Wonder why...?)

In fact... the silly duct cleaning companies look like they have better gear than the HVAC companies around here. But those photos of before and after may just be with a cheap short camera. Can't tell.

Also can talk to the small company owner and ask for a reference. Haven't done that yet. He's more than willing to help but I have a feeling he's too small to do this with tech. He's going to ask to go into the basement ceiling big time.

Not being in this biz I figure I'll ask. If it was your system would you pursue this or just authorize tearing out the ceiling and getting at all of it and figuring it out? Has anyone here had any luck hunting a ductwork problem with cameras?

The good news is even with the duct issues the new furnace already does a million times better job, both upstairs and down. The ability on these new systems to program the blower to stay on at a low setting continuously is awesome for evening out areas with poor return airflow and the fully modulating burner is way nifty. (For the record this is a fully modulating (both burner and blower) Bryant Evolution with the smart thermostat touch screen thingy. I'm a geek so I already love being able to play with the thermostat from anywhere with an iPhone app or see system status remotely when away from home.)

Right now with airflow issues to the basement I program up a "Sleep" mode that includes bumping the blower up to Medium continuously since the master bedroom is the furthest room away in the basement from the furnace. The trickle of heated air that makes it there is actually working a million times better than the original system but there's a pretty consistent 4F temp drop in the basement everywhere. Obviously with no kids and privacy issues we can just leave all the room doors open all the time too, which keeps everything fairly even.

Very tempted to have them get into the ceiling for a different reason. Zoning. Two zones. Upstairs and downstairs. But... If airflow issue is fixed perhaps a better solution is building a proper return into the basement by running a box and ductwork to the far end of the house. Ultimately if the airflow issue isn't addressed the A/C won't work right at all, I do know that!

Ask any questions you have if you know this stuff. I'm not educated enough to really even know what to ask other than a lot of Internet reading, which does not an expert make! ;)

Gratuitous iPhone App shots.

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Furnace model number if someone needs that...

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If the duct is metal I would snake a plumbers or electric snake down there and see where it stops or better if you snag a rag or animal. That's where I would start. Any small cheap video recorder could work too taped to the end of a snake could work too. Or a mirror with a flash light might give you a view through a vent. A cheap inspection mirror with a stick and a flashlight could get you a pretty good view of the issue.
 
Thinking outside the box, see if a plumber would run their camera thru your ducts. Probably ask if they'll make sure it (camera and line) is clean first. ??

Suggestion above would work, too, I would think. Webcam and light on a electrical fish tape.
 
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Most of the duct cleaning companies I've used have had cameras that will run full length of their gear and give a video of the entire system.
 
Agree on the duct cleaning companies.

I am surprised that they installed it with zero clearance. They won't do that around here.
 
Is this a "double wide trailer" on basement?
On most of them I have seen there is a flex pipe used to connect the two sides of the house together when installed.
Some have 2 "trunk" lines and just the flex cross over.
If this is the case the flex could have become clogged or ever disconnected.
I you feel like blindly tearing up your ceiling crank your heat and go in basement an feel for hot spot on ceiling. Then hope this is the bad spot.
 
The static pressure that the fan sees is the sum of the longest return air section of duct plus the longest supply air section of duct. Keep that in mind as you troubleshoot. Also one poorly designed or installed fitting could be the root cause of the problem. It doesn't take much to eat up a1/2" of static. Assume you have already checked the obvious - the filter is clean and so is the cooling coil. Also the fins on the coil aren't bent.

An air leak in a ceiling spice can also cause the problem. Pressure can build up in the enclosed space.
Ultimately you need to trace the longest return duct back to the unit and then the longest supply duct from the unit to it's farthest outlet. Cleaning companies often have the best duct inspection camera systems. Good luck.
Gary
 
Smoke sticks. Depending on how the ducts are routed and Tee-d you put a smoke stick in each one of the branches off the main manifold. Chase down the smoke coming out of the registers, and you'll find your blockage. It sounds like you would start on your lower main branch, and then look at what comes out of the registers. You can backtrack from the ones that don't flow well. If it's in the main artery from the big manifold, that would explain the pressure diff failure.

Another thing you can try is to remove the register grates. It seems like they wouldn't be much of a restriction but sometimes there's stuff on the other side of the register vanes that you can't see well.

Also, since you don't have a return downstairs, you will need to run the test with all the doors open, then close them. I would put a return in the basement(downstairs) first, but I know that's more cutting and ducting to get it into the downdraft systems. Sorry...
 
Remember also that hot air rises, so you're pushing against the adiabatic and thermal norm. A return at the downstairs will help this a lot.

We've got an HVAC specialist on this board, I'm sure he'll have some better ideas.
 
Is this a "double wide trailer" on basement?
On most of them I have seen there is a flex pipe used to connect the two sides of the house together when installed.
Some have 2 "trunk" lines and just the flex cross over.
If this is the case the flex could have become clogged or ever disconnected.
I you feel like blindly tearing up your ceiling crank your heat and go in basement an feel for hot spot on ceiling. Then hope this is the bad spot.


Kinda. It's way bigger than a typical double wide, but definitely manufactured. (How they got it up on top of a walkout basement must have been entertaining to watch.

We've joked that if we ever truly get annoyed with it, we move into the RV for a summer and have someone just rip it off the top of the basement and build a normal sticks and bricks on top. :)

Wouldn't be worth it, we just joke about it. The upstairs is somewhat odd since it was designed to be a complete house for multiple people... Three tiny kid sized bedrooms and a master and two baths. I use one tiny bedroom as an office, another as the ham shack, and the third is just storage space.

The basement is just a huge great room with another bath and a master bedroom with a wall in closet and another bath.

Four baths for two of us is somewhat overkill, to say the least. Also two water heaters... One on each floor. We'll probably remove the upstairs one whenever it decides to die or is too old and just plumb hot water into the already existing cold water line feeding it and then splice that into the entire upstairs. No point in feeding and caring for two tanks long term.

To connect it all they built a staircase into a mud room extended out of both the basement and then back to what originally would have been one of the outside doors of the manufactured house. Kinda nifty idea really. In fact at the top of those stairs they never removed the motion sensor "porch" light nor pulled off the original outside door. It just stays open all the time against what would have originally been the "outside" wall on a landing at the top of the stairs. You could close it if you felt the need for some reason, I suppose. We haven't.

Attached to the other end of the mud room/staircase is the reason my old man bought the place. He wanted a tiny house with a big garage. They're actually relatively hard to find here. The garage is a three car (dual plus a small single door but all one big open connected space).

It's all rather ingeniously attached but definitely a little weird. And whoever finished the basement had no clue about forced air furnaces and didn't install any returns. Would have been a cakewalk to get it right from below when it was just framework in a concrete basement.

Oh well. If we have to tear into the ceiling it's just drywall. Not the end of the world to have someone rehang it and retexture it and paint. The ceiling downstairs is also really high for a basement so if we have to drop boxes down to run ductwork it really won't be a problem for the headroom or anything.

Dad also had a pellet stove installed downstairs. It's never a problem to fire that up and cook the humans in the basement. Ha. No pass-throughout for that heat to the upstairs so it wanders up the staircase. With the blower going on the furnace right at the former "outside" door in the hallway there it's easy to distribute "staircase heat" throughout the upstairs if you're dead set on burning pellets instead of propane.

The pellet stove is capable of being put on a t-stat if desired. We've not bothered. It's no big deal to just walk over and push the start button.

The static pressure that the fan sees is the sum of the longest return air section of duct plus the longest supply air section of duct. Keep that in mind as you troubleshoot. Also one poorly designed or installed fitting could be the root cause of the problem. It doesn't take much to eat up a1/2" of static. Assume you have already checked the obvious - the filter is clean and so is the cooling coil. Also the fins on the coil aren't bent.



An air leak in a ceiling spice can also cause the problem. Pressure can build up in the enclosed space.

Ultimately you need to trace the longest return duct back to the unit and then the longest supply duct from the unit to it's farthest outlet. Cleaning companies often have the best duct inspection camera systems. Good luck.

Gary


Well there's only the large grate at the unit and the new one in the kitchen for return. That's obviously the most serious problem in the whole system, but it doesn't add much in terms of distance that's for sure. Three feet at best.

Supply duct... Well depending on where they're crossed over and connected, that'd be about 50' plus cross over.

Cool and box are brand new with the furnace. The old one wouldn't quite fit right.

Smoke sticks. Depending on how the ducts are routed and Tee-d you put a smoke stick in each one of the branches off the main manifold. Chase down the smoke coming out of the registers, and you'll find your blockage. It sounds like you would start on your lower main branch, and then look at what comes out of the registers. You can backtrack from the ones that don't flow well. If it's in the main artery from the big manifold, that would explain the pressure diff failure.



Another thing you can try is to remove the register grates. It seems like they wouldn't be much of a restriction but sometimes there's stuff on the other side of the register vanes that you can't see well.



Also, since you don't have a return downstairs, you will need to run the test with all the doors open, then close them. I would put a return in the basement(downstairs) first, but I know that's more cutting and ducting to get it into the downdraft systems. Sorry...


The installer and I think it's fairly close to the furnace in whatever they did to cross over to the west side of the house. The east upstairs trunk with six registers that runs the length of the house blows like a banshee. The west side, almost nothing.

Strangely though, both east and west registers in the basement are generally dead but we don't know where they tapped the basement off of the rest of the system.

Understand the doors open thing for testing. Doesn't really bother us to have them all open most of the time anyway. But I understand what you're saying.

Registers, we've had all of them off when we stuck the short camera in all of them. No significant difference in the air moving with them off. Found a few that weren't crimped too well into the fiber duct stuff upstairs but that's all fixed. (Squeeze them back tight while you're sticking your nose in there and the camera trying to look around.)

Remember also that hot air rises, so you're pushing against the adiabatic and thermal norm. A return at the downstairs will help this a lot.



We've got an HVAC specialist on this board, I'm sure he'll have some better ideas.


I've been thinking that from the start. The basement really needs a return to cycle the air properly. Where to put it or them (multiple) is an interesting question. I believe we could cut into the pantry again and then down through the floor to get into the ceiling. There's nothing sacred about that pantry. It could be full of duct work and closed off for all we care. There's another large pantry in that hallway, so no lack of storage space for the stuff in there.

Thanks for all the comments. It's all good info to add to the thought process.
 
Forgot to mention -- someone said they've never seen an install with no clearance around the furnace.

There's clearance. Enough to run piping down both sides in fact.

The frame of the "closet" is smaller than the interior by a significant margin.

Only a little over an inch of the front of the furnace frame is touching that opening.

It was just the frame of the "door" that was a tight fit. ;)
 
Most likely the flex duct joing the two main trunk lines together is the problem. These are almost always just cheap large flex duct. They quite often come off and partially block the duct . They are also loved by critters large and small who chew through them and then use the material for nests. I have some some amazingly large nests in these. Generally they tie into the main trunks from the bottom and it may well be that it is crushed by the drywall in the basement cieling. A camera is going to be the only way to really inspect the system.
 
The proper way to start a typical changeout where one has had issues in the past is to perform a load calculation and then a duct sizing calculation. Many states require this and if not, a properly trained/licensed hvac guy should still know how to do them. Check with yours to see if he could do both. You should be able to measure each supply to each room. Measuring the supply trunk may require removing that a-coil from the cabinet, but the installer should have an idea of the dimensions since he just did the work. Anything less than 6" H X 24" W is too small for a 3 ton a/c with 80,000 btu furnace. Remember, that number can change depending on a lot of factors, so don't quote me on that.

If the original installer installed 4" supplies off of the original factory fiberglass ductboard trunk instead of installing a separate parallel trunk just for basement then that is possibly your problem. Mobile home ductwork is usually under-sized and if the crossover duct is smashed or misaligned, it would compound things.

The other option and best way would be to install one properly sized trunk for both the main level and basement down the center of the basement with the gas furnace/a-coil centered on that trunk in an upflow position. You get much more even airlow and temperatures this way. As mentioned above several times, returns on both levels are a must! I install the upstairs one as high as possible and downstairs as low as possible.

What is the model number of your furnace?

Good luck.
 
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