Cable attachment

[Richard]

Picture is rudder cable attachment to rupper post. In this example the thimble rides on a shackle; in other cable assy the thimble is secured to a turnbuckle but the geometry at the thimble is the same.

I don't like the thimble at all. I much rather the cable be rove directly into a turnbuckle.

The question is what pro/cons do you see of such a attachment method as shown?

EDIT: It appears the shackle does not swivel on the rudder. Is it just me or do you see this being a problem? I'm thinking a couple teflon washers to allow the shackle to swivel.

 

[ScottM]

I don't believe that the nut should be torque down so much as to start to squeeze the 'thimble' between the rudder eyelet and the bolt. As long as it is loose, with the limited movement it would make anyway I doubt that the Teflon would add anything to reducing friction. It should be fine the way it is hooked up IMHO. Worst case a squirt of lube should do the trick and would also help prevent corrosion.

 

[Richard]

Scott, the thimble is the SS metal used in the bight (cable loop). The shackle has the bolt running through it. And having the nylok nut backed off would allow the bolt to elongate the hole or bushing if a bushing were to be installed.

 

[gismo]

Picture is rudder cable attachment to rupper post. In this example the thimble rides on a shackle; in other cable assy the thimble is secured to a turnbuckle but the geometry at the thimble is the same.

I don't like the thimble at all. I much rather the cable be rove directly into a turnbuckle.

The question is what pro/cons do you see of such a attachment method as shown?

EDIT: It appears the shackle does not swivel on the rudder. Is it just me or do you see this being a problem? I'm thinking a couple teflon washers to allow the shackle to swivel.

Without a proper thimble, the strength of the cable would be severely compromised. The thimble does it's job by increasing the radius of the bend in the cable and by protecting the cable from abrasion. WRT the shackles, they either need to be so tight that they cannot turn if you apply maximum force on the pedals (not likely to even be possible) or free to swivel. I'd loosen the bolt and make sure the nut is safetied I don't think teflon washers would be necessary or even helpful.

 

[Richard]

Lance, I fully understand the need for the thimble in the connection as shown.

I'd loosen the bolt and make sure the nut is safetied I don't think teflon washers would be necessary or even helpful.

So how would you expect a loose bolt to wear? I see great probability of scoring of the bolt shank and elongation of the bolt hole. So there is no choice but to properly torque the bolt.

OTOH, I guess I'm overthinking this since there is only 130 ft lbs on the system. In that case I guess it won't matter that the shackle is not free to rotate to always be aligned with the direction of applied tension.

 

[Henning]

Lance, I fully understand the need for the thimble in the connection as shown. So how would you expect a loose bolt to wear? I see great probability of scoring of the bolt shank and elongation of the bolt hole. So there is no choice but to properly torque the bolt.

The hole should be bushed with a bronze bushing, the nut loosened, the nut cotter pinned and the shackle free to swivel.

 

[RogerT]

Picture is rudder cable attachment to rupper post. In this example the thimble rides on a shackle; in other cable assy the thimble is secured to a turnbuckle but the geometry at the thimble is the same.

I don't like the thimble at all. I much rather the cable be rove directly into a turnbuckle.

The question is what pro/cons do you see of such a attachment method as shown?

EDIT: It appears the shackle does not swivel on the rudder. Is it just me or do you see this being a problem? I'm thinking a couple teflon washers to allow the shackle to swivel.

On my Titan I just built the rudder connection is about the same. It
doesn't use a bolt. It uses a shaft (like a bolt with no threads) down thru
the hole with a washer and a cotter key and is free to pivot.

 

[Tom-D]

The question is what pro/cons do you see of such a attachment method as shown?

That is assembled correctly, buy you need to loosen the nut 2 flats and rekey.

It will wear the bolt, but they are easy to replace.