Bicycles

bigred177

bigred177

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bigred
The apartment I'm going to be living in for my time in OKC is about two miles from the school. I would like to think that on the days it's not 500* that I could motivate myself to ride a bike instead of drive. I can afford the extra calories and it saves some fuel. I have never really shopped for a bike before but know for a fact I don't want a mountain bike or a racing style bike. I was thinking something along the lines of a cruiser or the like that is comfortable to sit on and to ride. But the ones I have looked at online are kinda high, I also know nothing about sizing for a bike other than most I get on are too small.

I'm 6'3" with a 34" inseam, and a big backside in need of a bigger than typical cheap bike seat. I don't really like having the seat as far up as it usually goes :no:. So I need to opinions from you cycling types out there. It needs to be affordable but comfortable so I will still ride it.
Thanks
 
The biggest mistakes 99% of casual American bicycle riders make is riding a bike that's far too small, sitting too far back, thus not extending the legs (as well as going SLOW and having knee problems)

Here's far more than you need, most likley, but is a good intro into bike fitting:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

FWIW I have over 100k miles on road, tandem, and mountain bikes, raced against (and lost badly to) Floyd Landis, blah, blah, blah...
 
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Go to a good bike shop. Talk to the folks there and ask if they have any decent used bike's available that will fit you. I used to be married to one of the top guys at Richardson Bike Mart (early sponsor of Lance ARmstrong when he was just a teenager) - I know that fit/size makes a big difference in comfort and willingness to continue to use the investment - so if you have to save for a couple of mos. to set money aside for a correct bicycle for you then it's worth it. They have wide seats for cruisers that will fit most any bum out there so you should be fine. Try to get a bike w/ at least 3 gears.
you can even get paniers - baskets for the back to put your books in, lunch etc. Don't figure you'd want a basket on front but that would be easier.
 
I ride this bike to work:

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/urban/soho/sohos/

I've become a huge fan of single-speed bikes for commuting. Less gadgets to maintain. This bike goes super fast and easy. For when it's raining (I live in Oregon), I ditched my newer 6cyl Dodge and now drive a '77 deisel Mercedes. It's so cheap to drive I don't even include gas in my budget anymore. When I'm feeling really cheap I can even put veggie oil in the tank. There's a faint smell like I'm cooking some popcorn in the trunk but it's worth it for almost free travel. It's an old beater but for some reason it's my favorite car I ever had...


caaar.JPG
 
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I won't suggest any particular bike, but it sounds like mtn. bike or hybrid would be right for your "mission."
As far as fit goes...
Height: forget the seat at first, they're adjustable. Stand astraddle the top bar, with both feet flat on the ground. If the bar is touching you, the frame and wheel combo is too tall. You want to be able to hop off the seat and plant your feet without hurting anything. Clear the bar this way, and you'll also find it easy to swing your leg over to mount/dismount. And it's not just about not bashing your crotch on the bar in an emergency... it's a formula that usually provides optimum comfort all-around.

Seat height:
Holding yourself upright against a wall or pole with one hand, put the other hand on the handlebars, sit on the seat and set one pedal at the bottom of its travel. Your leg should be fully extended, but the knee should not be "locked". That's optimum for power and not hurting yourself over time.
Best way to set the seat height is to have the tube tight, but loose enough to shift when you put your weight on it. When it's right, get off and tighten it completely. Saves a lot of dismount-adjust-mount, etc.
As far as seat tilt goes, just remember that you sit on the back part. :D


Length:
Frame length is also important, but to determine what's right for you, you have to set the seat first, put the handlebars how you want them (that tube is usually also adjustable for height), and assume a normal riding position. Arms extended, but again, elbows not locked. Think, also, about how your neck and lower back will feel after a few miles riding in this position. If you have to lean forward a lot, and tilt your head back to see forward, the bike is too long. If you're hunched over,or feel like maybe your upper body will move forward a lot if you stop abruptly, it's too short.

Take the time to try out a few frames (just sitting, etc, not riding)... if the dealer won't let you, take your money and go elsewhere.
Knowledgeable bike-shop folks may look at you and say "this one is perfect", but try it out anyway!!
 
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I've got a road bike that I love. It's a Univega Modo Vincere. 24 speeds, lightweight, handles nicely, comfortable. I'm 6'2" and it fits me great. The lightweight is important. Even if it's hard it won't end up making that big of a deal for you (you'll avoid potholes).

If work was 2 miles away, I'd ride it more. Unfortunately it's not, so it mostly sits in my garage. I should ride it more...
 
I have a Trek 7.3 hybrid which, for me, is a great bike for long distant rides (up to a century) or a casual few mile sight seeing ride.

All others have provided great info on what to look for so I won't add the bandwidth.

Regardless, good luck and enjoy!
 
Go to a good bike shop for a correct fitting. It doesn't matter how 'smooth' the bike is, if it doesn't fit YOU, you won't ride it.

Spend the extra bucks for a 'quality' bike - don't think that you'll just 'get by' with a Wal-Mart bike.

Brand/model/etc is all relative to personal preference.
 
bigred177 said:
I'm 6'3" with a 34" inseam, and a big backside in need of a bigger than typical cheap bike seat. I don't really like having the seat as far up as it usually goes :no:. So I need to opinions from you cycling types out there. It needs to be affordable but comfortable so I will still ride it.
Thanks
Click to expand...

You are taller than most, which means that you will have more luck at a bike store than at a wall-mart or the like. Good thing too, since a bike store will sell you a much better ride.

Besides everything already said here (fit is KING), a couple of other tips:

a) if you are riding short distances infrequently, you will like a more upright riding posture which a hybrid bike or cruiser will give you. If you start riding longer distances more frequently, you'll prefer the more bent over posture of a touring or road bike. Why? Because this divides your weight between your hands and your bottom (leading to less wear and tear on your rear), and also lets you ride faster with less effort due to better aerodynamics.

b) if you ride in the rain, buy fenders. They will make you _very_ happy.

c) buy a helmet and use it. Really. It could save your life. (I have more than one friend who managed to crack a helmet in half with the road.)

d) if you ride at night, buy lights. LED flashlights are dirt cheap and super light these days, and with a simple clip can be converted into really good headlights.

e) if you want a toy, get a bike computer. It will tell you how fast and far you have gone, which gives you motivation to try harder.

f) if you are heavier than the "average" 175lb cyclist (which I presume you are at 6'3", unless you are skinny as a rail) you may want to consider: (i) larger-than-normal tires; (ii) puncture resistant tires; and (iii) a stronger-than-normal rear wheel, such as one designed for a tandem bike. Why? Because with these changes, you'll spend more time riding and less time fixing flats and re-truing your wheel. Sadly, all these upgrades cost $$$.

Chris

My qualifications? Ummm. I've been biking to school/work for 26 years. Not good enough? How about: I got passed by Cadel Evans and George Hincapie while riding up Old La Honda on my tandem a couple of months ago?
 
I'm guessing it's a flat ride, since you're in OKC? I wouldn't want a cruiser in the hills.

One thing to add here is this -- don't let the size and padding of a bike seat fool you. Bigger and more padding is usually MORE uncomfortable. The reason bike seats are narrow and hard is that they are designed to take your weight on the hard bones of your pelvis, and not to pressure the soft tissue.

You need to make sure your bike is fitted to you by a pro. A difference of an inch in seat location can make a big difference in comfort.

I can't stress going to a good, local bike shop for this enough. They really know bikes, and will take the time to help you and answer questions. Don't be nervous about being a newbie. Bike people are some of the friendliest around. They do not make you feel stupid or cheap for not knowing/buying the flashiest stuff.

Be careful -- you may fall in love with biking. I did.
 
Thanks for all the great advice guys. Sounds like I get to take a day to go bike shopping soon. Didn't realize there was so much that went into all this.
 
bigred177 said:
Thanks for all the great advice guys. Sounds like I get to take a day to go bike shopping soon. Didn't realize there was so much that went into all this.
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THERE IS!

A great fit is well worth it. Getting a fit means dealing with a shop that actually takes measurements, is will to swap out parts like stems, bars, etc. It will also have you do some riding and continue to make adjustments until you are comfortable.
 
bigred177 said:
Thanks for all the great advice guys. Sounds like I get to take a day to go bike shopping soon. Didn't realize there was so much that went into all this.
Click to expand...


If you start enjoying riding, you will likley get fitter and so your riding style and position will change.

Keep this in mind so you don't toss all your pennies at the Lance Armstrong replica quite yet.

:no:
 
Haha, yea, I'm not sure how I feel about the recumbants. I will be heading to some bicycles shops this weekend though. Wish me luck!!
 
People who ride wedgies will never understand. What do you guys consider the biggest advantage to riding around all day all hunkered up like a monkey humping a football? I'm about Red's size and my Tour-easy is a wonderful way to ride. The lower-priced model is almost as good.

dmccormack said:
You gotta be brave to ride one of those!

Riding at hubcap height just doesn't do it for me! :eek:
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wabower said:
People who ride wedgies will never understand. What do you guys consider the biggest advantage to riding around all day all hunkered up like a monkey humping a football? I'm about Red's size and my Tour-easy is a wonderful way to ride. The lower-priced model is almost as good.
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I guess for that crowd, it's about aerodynamics... or just looking like you should care about aerodynamics. :rolleyes:
Same reason some "road geeks" shave their legs...:rolleyes:

But getting prone really does help a bit if you're trying to make good time, let alone racing.

When I used to ride seriously (10-mile daily rides, long weekend rides, two solo tours of about 1000 miles each), I found that I always had a headwind, LOL. On a long ride, it's very helpful to lie down a bit... if your lower back and neck can stand it.

But even when I was kind of a "road geek", I had my sport/touring set up with the ends of the bars cut off and the bars mounted upside-down ("bull-horn" style), which allowed me three riding positions, without moving my hands much. The upright position was quite comfortable, the middle position gave me a small aerodynamic advantage but wasn't too hard on the neck, and the prone position, which got me just as low as with a normal handlebar setup, was just for having more fun with downhills (hit 40mph one day in the Adirondacks, that was memorable!).
 
wabower said:
People who ride wedgies will never understand. What do you guys consider the biggest advantage to riding around all day all hunkered up like a monkey humping a football? I'm about Red's size and my Tour-easy is a wonderful way to ride. The lower-priced model is almost as good.
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Thanks for the softball.. :D


  • Aerodynamics
  • Efficiency
  • Power
  • Variable position
  • The ability to stand and power up hills (no one on any recumbent ever kept up with me up any hill, ever)
  • Speed
  • Speed
  • Speed
Oh -- and with the right saddle (I preferred the Flite series), you're not "sitting" -- you're perched very comfortably, since much of your weight is borne by the pedals and a bit more by the handlebars.
 
Ted DuPuis said:
I've got a road bike that I love. It's a Univega Modo Vincere. 24 speeds, lightweight, handles nicely, comfortable. I'm 6'2" and it fits me great. The lightweight is important. Even if it's hard it won't end up making that big of a deal for you (you'll avoid potholes).

If work was 2 miles away, I'd ride it more. Unfortunately it's not, so it mostly sits in my garage. I should ride it more...
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I'm going to assume the OP is well over 200 lbs. ("I'm 6'3" with a 34" inseam, and a big backside"), I don't think the weight of the bike is that critical.
 
  • Sitting upright looking ahead.
  • Comfortable mesh seat and backrest
  • Hands in normal steering position
  • No weight on wrists
  • Bike won't tip over forward, so no ass over teakettle falls.
  • Low center of gravity for lay-down emergencies
  • Twenty-seven gears for hills, OKC is flat anyway
  • The guy wants to commute comfortably, not wear the little racing costume
  • I think you'll find the Toureasy holds the bike speed record.
  • I think you'll find the Toureasy holds the bike speed record.
  • I think you'll find the Toureasy holds the bike speed record.
YMMF
  • Aerodynamics
  • Efficiency
  • Power
  • Variable position
  • The ability to stand and power up hills (no one on any recumbent ever kept up with me up any hill, ever)
  • Speed
  • Speed
  • Speed
Oh -- and with the right saddle (I preferred the Flite series), you're not "sitting" -- you're perched very comfortably, since much of your weight is borne by the pedals and a bit more by the handlebars.[/quote]
 
wabower said:
  • Sitting upright looking ahead.
  • Comfortable mesh seat and backrest
  • Hands in normal steering position
  • No weight on wrists
  • Bike won't tip over forward, so no ass over teakettle falls.
  • Low center of gravity for lay-down emergencies
  • Twenty-seven gears for hills, OKC is flat anyway
  • The guy wants to commute comfortably, not wear the little racing costume
  • I think you'll find the Toureasy holds the bike speed record.
  • I think you'll find the Toureasy holds the bike speed record.
  • I think you'll find the Toureasy holds the bike speed record.
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  • I don't have any problem looking ahead, to the side, or even behind.
  • Oh, please -- mesh? seriously? -- yeah, just what I want to do -- sit in a puddle of sweat. :rofl:
  • How are the hands not in a "normal steering position" with standard rams horn? Plus, I can vary to in the drops, on top, on the hoods, or partway on all three.
  • Again, you can put as much weight as you want on the wrists, but you don't have to do push ups to ride a standard race bike -- if you have "weight on the wrists," something's wrong with your position.
  • If you fall, you fall -- and just because you're reclined doesn't make it less painful. In tens of thousands of miles on bikes in all sorts of conditions (all four seasons) the only time I fell badly was in a race. Otherwise I've jumped, swerved, or braked around many, many obstacles while clipped or strapped in.
  • "Lay down emergencies"? Oh boy..this sounds like the old Motorcycle OWT -- steering and brakes beats "laying it down" 10000 times over -- it's alot like flying -- keep flying to the end.
  • You have your choice of speeds on a standard road bike -- my guess is the recumbent uses a Shimano system -- developed for road bikes.
  • Who said you have to wear a "little racing costume"? If you're commuting and not sweating, you're probably going too slow. If you are sweating, you're going to shower or at least clean up and change anyway.
  • Hmmm... which type bike has won the last 100 years of European cycling races? Which type does Lance ride?

Recumbent are an oddball curio -- too much of a hybrid to ever compete with the pure mechanical efficiency and perfection of the two wheel racing bicycle. I've ridden in group rides with recumbents -- they're fine for folks who have back or other problems that preclude riding a regular bike. But no recumbent can match a well made road race bike for light weight, wide range of operating speeds, and range of motion over the long haul.
 
He's commuting two miles to work, not riding the Tour. Recumbents are ten to one more comfortable than wedgies, and will easily accommodate a basket or bags to hold whatever you need to take along. How smart do you have to be to compare the two seats and figure that out? If those seats are so comfortable, why don't camping chairs and movie theatres have wedgie bicycle seats?

dmccormack said:
  • I don't have any problem looking ahead, to the side, or even behind.
  • Oh, please -- mesh? seriously? -- yeah, just what I want to do -- sit in a puddle of sweat. :rofl:
  • How are the hands not in a "normal steering position" with standard rams horn? Plus, I can vary to in the drops, on top, on the hoods, or partway on all three.
  • Again, you can put as much weight as you want on the wrists, but you don't have to do push ups to ride a standard race bike -- if you have "weight on the wrists," something's wrong with your position.
  • If you fall, you fall -- and just because you're reclined doesn't make it less painful. In tens of thousands of miles on bikes in all sorts of conditions (all four seasons) the only time I fell badly was in a race. Otherwise I've jumped, swerved, or braked around many, many obstacles while clipped or strapped in.
  • "Lay down emergencies"? Oh boy..this sounds like the old Motorcycle OWT -- steering and brakes beats "laying it down" 10000 times over -- it's alot like flying -- keep flying to the end.
  • You have your choice of speeds on a standard road bike -- my guess is the recumbent uses a Shimano system -- developed for road bikes.
  • Who said you have to wear a "little racing costume"? If you're commuting and not sweating, you're probably going too slow. If you are sweating, you're going to shower or at least clean up and change anyway.
  • Hmmm... which type bike has won the last 100 years of European cycling races? Which type does Lance ride?
Recumbent are an oddball curio -- too much of a hybrid to ever compete with the pure mechanical efficiency and perfection of the two wheel racing bicycle. I've ridden in group rides with recumbents -- they're fine for folks who have back or other problems that preclude riding a regular bike. But no recumbent can match a well made road race bike for light weight, wide range of operating speeds, and range of motion over the long haul.
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I don't know a lot about bicycles but I have recently started riding a bit. I started a few weeks ago and 5 miles about killed me. Last week I did 10 miles. The other day I did 15 miles. Today I did 21 miles.

I'm just riding an old Trek 820 that I bought used. I haven't really done anything other than get on it and ride (haven't even changed the seat height) :)

I'd really like to do a 100 mile ride...but I probably should invest in a more road bike before then.
 
The recumbent is great for the 400-miler across Oklahoma.

jesse said:
I don't know a lot about bicycles but I have recently started riding a bit. I started a few weeks ago and 5 miles about killed me. Last week I did 10 miles. The other day I did 15 miles. Today I did 21 miles.

I'm just riding an old Trek 820 that I bought used. I haven't really done anything other than get on it and ride (haven't even changed the seat height) :)

I'd really like to do a 100 mile ride...but I probably should invest in a more road bike before then.
Click to expand...
 
wabower said:
He's commuting two miles to work, not riding the Tour. Recumbents are ten to one more comfortable than wedgies, and will easily accommodate a basket or bags to hold whatever you need to take along. How smart do you have to be to compare the two seats and figure that out? If those seats are so comfortable, why don't camping chairs and movie theatres have wedgie bicycle seats?
Click to expand...


Well, if it's camping chair comfort you need, drive a car.

:rofl:
 
And if I want the sensation of riding a wedgie all day, what should I do? Apply for a congressional intern job in DC?:rofl:

dmccormack said:
Well, if it's camping chair comfort you need, drive a car.

:rofl:
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The only three things I dislike about reclining bicycles are their turn radius (the ones I tried are longer than the more common bicycles), going uphill, and being seen by other traffic.. You have to remember to downshift if coming to a stop while climbing a hill and you may loose speed on a steeper hill because you need a low gear ratio; a regular bike lets you stand on the pedels and get some speed (for awhile- on a really long hill the recumbant may beat out the regular bike because the rider is...beat). Being low to the ground makes the recumbant bike more difficult to see by others- a flag is critical on these bikes.

As for seats- meh...put a wide seat on the regular bicycle.
 
dmccormack said:
Hmmm... which type bike has won the last 100 years of European cycling races? Which type does Lance ride?
Click to expand...

What kind of bike was outlawed from bicycle racing in 1934 because they were too fast?

That's why Lance doesn't ride a recumbent.
 
Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe said:
What kind of bike was outlawed from bicycle racing in 1934 because they were too fast?

That's why Lance doesn't ride a recumbent.
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Hardly -- the recumbents are simply not nimble enough to mix it up in a pack.

Recumbents are like tandems -- on the flats my wife and I could drop any single -- 30 MPH average speed was normal (solo, not in a pack).

As soon as there was a grade, the aero advantages were trumped by gravity. We could hang, but could never compete with real climbers on real hills.
 
"HIGH WING!!!!"
"NO! WTF IS WRONG WITH YOU ONLY REAL PILOTS FLY LOW WINGS!!!"
"YEA, MAYBE IF YOU'RE A LITTLE SISSY GIRL PILOT YOU FLY A LOW WING!!!"

Sorry guys, I had to :)

Seriously though, I do appreciate y'alls help. Without it there would have been a lightly used Wal Mart special sitting in my house two years from now. I think I'm going to pick it up today or tomorrow, and get some fenders ordered for it. Will post some photos when she's all together.
 
bigred177 said:
"HIGH WING!!!!"
"NO! WTF IS WRONG WITH YOU ONLY REAL PILOTS FLY LOW WINGS!!!"
"YEA, MAYBE IF YOU'RE A LITTLE SISSY GIRL PILOT YOU FLY A LOW WING!!!"

Sorry guys, I had to :)

Seriously though, I do appreciate y'alls help. Without it there would have been a lightly used Wal Mart special sitting in my house two years from now. I think I'm going to pick it up today or tomorrow, and get some fenders ordered for it. Will post some photos when she's all together.
Click to expand...


Not the same -- the high vs low wing is an argument over preference.

:rolleyes:
 
jesse said:
I don't know a lot about bicycles but I have recently started riding a bit. I started a few weeks ago and 5 miles about killed me. Last week I did 10 miles. The other day I did 15 miles. Today I did 21 miles.

I'm just riding an old Trek 820 that I bought used. I haven't really done anything other than get on it and ride (haven't even changed the seat height) :)

I'd really like to do a 100 mile ride...but I probably should invest in a more road bike before then.
Click to expand...

I did about 800 miles in two weeks- anywhere from 30 to 80 miles a day- on a simple, mid-priced mountain bike (no suspension, stock seat, etc); it was fine for that. And for a big road ride, just get some slick, narrow tires that fit your Trek rims; I'd sooner do that than trade in the mtn. bike for a road bike. If you can have both, of course, that's ideal.


Before you upgrade, take 5 minutes to set up your mtn. bike as I described... you'll be able to ride more with less fatigue, and if you start riding a lot, less aches and pains. :D

Seriously, though, you can mess up your knees, hips, lower back, pretty much everything if your seat is not correct relative to the pedals. Even with a fancier bike, if it's not set up right for you, 100 miles will do some damage.

Cycling is low-impact, but uses a lot of muscles that are normally not exercised much, and it puts unusual strain on joints.
 
jesse said:
I'd really like to do a 100 mile ride...but I probably should invest in a more road bike before then.
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There is no pain like 100 mile bike ride pain. It's like marathon pain plus an aching azz.

HOWEVER -- the pride of accomplishment outweighs the pain. It's a worthy effort. I would, however, definitely get a real road bike for something like that. I've seen guys do them on mountain bikes, cruisers, even fixies, but that's just nuts in my opinion.
 
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