Another engine heater question...

Lon Stratton

Pre-takeoff checklist
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Lon
I usually activate my engine and cabin heaters the day before I go flying. I turned them on yesterday and now I'm not flying today.

Should I now just leave them on until I can go (hopefully within 3-5 days) or turn them off and start over again?

I'm leaning towards just leaving them on right now.
Thanks.
Lon
 
I leave my oil/engine Reiff heater on 24/7 for ~6 months during winter. Have been doing that for 14 years. It absolutely ensures that there is no condensation on/in the engine.
 
Free electricity at my hangar means mine is left on for 5 or 6 months out of the year as well. An added side benefit: my hangar is insulated, and I use a 1500 watt blower heater constantly circulating ducted in warm dry air into the cowl, so the rest of my hangar is usually about 10+ degrees warmer than the outside air.
 
Living in Carolina has some advantages i.e. I rarely have to preheat and turning on the engine heater is easy:

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:biggrin:
 
Do you folks that leave the preheats on all winter open up the oil dip stick to vent? I have a reiff heaters, oil sump and cylinder bands, but only turn on the night before my flights.
 
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I usually activate my engine and cabin heaters the day before I go flying. I turned them on yesterday and now I'm not flying today.

Should I now just leave them on until I can go (hopefully within 3-5 days) or turn them off and start over again?

I'm leaning towards just leaving them on right now.
Thanks.
Lon
Leave it on. Cycling the engine heater on/off without flying is absolutely one of the worst things you can do to an engine.
 
Do you folks that leave the preheats on all winter open up the oil dip stick to vent? I have a reiff heaters, oil sump and cylinder bands, but only turn on night before my flights.
After each flight I open the oil tank cap and cover the opening with a fine steel mesh (to prevent any bugs from going in). It stays that way until my next flight.
 
Leave it on. Cycling the engine heater on/off without flying is absolutely one of the worst things you can do to an engine.
Is there an empirical data to support that? Just how much moisture can condense out of cold air? Or is it something else that causes the issue?
 
Do you folks that leave the preheats on all winter open up the oil dip stick to vent? I have a reiff heaters, oil sump and cylinder bands, but only turn on the night before my flights.
I've heard both ways and I think a lot of it depends on what your humidity/temp fluctuation is. IMO, the best thing you can do is try and keep things as much the same as possible and if that isn't possible slow the rate of change as much as possible. To that point, once I've flown and driven a lot of the moisture out I don't want a big opening to suck it back in (although obviously there are ways ambient air gets in but by keeping it warmer than ambient I think the moisture trend is in to out.

Even though we have duel G5's there is also a thermostatically controlled cabin heater.

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If you're paying for the juice, that's more than $100 a month in most places.
 
Is there an empirical data to support that? Just how much moisture can condense out of cold air? Or is it something else that causes the issue?
We had a discussion on this several years ago. One POAer did some calculations based on ambient temperatures, the amount of water that could be held by that air at 100% relative humidity, the amount of air exchange with fairly large temperature swings, and so on. Assuming that ALL the moisture in the air that went in was left there (which it isn't) after the air came out again, for many cycles (a month or so), the amount of water was pretty tiny. This was in relation to lightweight fuel tanks, which experience larger temp swings than an engine with all its mass. The amount of air within a crankcase is also pretty small. All the moving stuff within it takes up much of the airspace.

I redid those calculations myself a few years ago, and sure enough, the amount of moisture is really small. My own A-65 engine sat outside in a swampy area for ten years, with all the severe temp swings that happen in mid-latitude Canada, before I owned it. It had almost no corrosion at all, and that engine had been built in 1946 and had less than 1100 hours on it.

On the other hand, as a mechanic I found numerous engines badly corroded inside. The common factor there? Ground-running without flying. I have taken rocker covers off after a ground run, to find lots of water in the rocker box, condensed from combustion blowby gases. This was in our flight school airplanes that flew every day, hard, and went to TBO with no problems at all. The water was from that ground run.
but by keeping it warmer than ambient I think the moisture trend is in to out.
Warmth also increases the rate of corrosion.
 
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If you're paying for the juice, that's more than $100 a month in most places.
just checked. right now I'm averaging 20 bucks a month. I'll see what happens with this week of continuous on.
 
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