Oleo freaking struts!

simtech

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Simtech
UGH im getting tired of these things on my Cherokee. 2 annuals ago I rebuilt them yet they leaked from the top like the washer was bad. Mechanic put an extra oomf on it and still leaked at the top. This annual I got new valve cores and new aluminum crush washers. And guess what..still leaking hydro out the top. My service manual shows the crush washer under the filler port. I found a print out that my mechanic gave me 2 annuals ago that show no washer but an O-ring and that was dated 2008. Will have to look to see what revision manual I have. But my strut rebuild kit came with the aluminum washer.

Anyways...crush washer or o-ring? Or both? I feel an o-ring will seal it in much better and if I remember the opening is actually beveled like an o-ring wants to be there.
 
Sounds like you need a better mechanic. Oleos aren't rocket science.
 
Crush washers usually have a torque range and an extra oomph often damages them. Sounds like it is set up for an o-ring. Maybe the seating surface is damaged, like scratched by someone with a sharp scribe or pick... seen that.
 
yeah I believe we put 40 ft.lbs according to the manual. Still leaked so he went a tad more. Im going to service the struts with hydro and slap the o ring on according to the other service manual and see what happens.
 
It had a copper washer and it leaked so Ive tried the aluminum washer. To be honest maybe its not that that is leaking. All I know is it is dry under the cap but filling hydro up around the filler plug and streaking on the wing.

To service...jack up the plane, remove valve core, remove a torque link bolt, attach clear tubing to filler and put other end in hydro can. Pump strut up and down about 11 inches until no more air. hold strut up and remove tube, install valve, attach torque link bolt, install cotter pin, fill with nitrogen to desired length which corresponds to about 4 fingers worth of height.

That's how I do it and pretty much runs with the service manual.
 
Get a Mooney

If your going down this road....
Get a Pilatus, no ......a CJ3
And a full Ground support crew
And a second hangar full of cash to pay for it all
Oh yeah, and then a cherokee with leaky struts so you can fly vfr on Sundays and relate to the common man....
So, right back around to the original post........


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UGH im getting tired of these things on my Cherokee. 2 annuals ago I rebuilt them yet they leaked from the top like the washer was bad. Mechanic put an extra oomf on it and still leaked at the top. This annual I got new valve cores and new aluminum crush washers. And guess what..still leaking hydro out the top. My service manual shows the crush washer under the filler port. I found a print out that my mechanic gave me 2 annuals ago that show no washer but an O-ring and that was dated 2008. Will have to look to see what revision manual I have. But my strut rebuild kit came with the aluminum washer.

Anyways...crush washer or o-ring? Or both? I feel an o-ring will seal it in much better and if I remember the opening is actually beveled like an o-ring wants to be there.

My mechanic told me when mine was leaking (from the bottom) that a lot of lazy mechanics will only change the scraper and bottom O ring and not touch the top one because you actually have to remove the strut to change the top O ring. I helped him do this and yes, it is pretty tight quarters inside that little strut panel. The two bolts that are parallel with the wing are a beotch to get to. Also, he was very meticulous about cleaning the top cap and making sure that it was flat and the bolts were torqued in a sequence. But mine doesn't leak now.

One last note: The "kit" you can buy from Aircraft Spruce is a cheapie. The aluminum scraper was a few thousandths too big and we couldn't get it in (insert "that's what she said" joke here) so we ordered another scraper with the right part number. That was my experience, yours may vary.
 
It had a copper washer and it leaked so Ive tried the aluminum washer. To be honest maybe its not that that is leaking. All I know is it is dry under the cap but filling hydro up around the filler plug and streaking on the wing.

To service...jack up the plane, remove valve core, remove a torque link bolt, attach clear tubing to filler and put other end in hydro can. Pump strut up and down about 11 inches until no more air. hold strut up and remove tube, install valve, attach torque link bolt, install cotter pin, fill with nitrogen to desired length which corresponds to about 4 fingers worth of height.

That's how I do it and pretty much runs with the service manual.
That's pretty much the proper way. lots of yokels just shirt fluid in with a oil can.
 
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