Car Repair Thread

SixPapaCharlie

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I know there are forums for this but I don't have time in my life for another forum. Plus you guys have proven to be tremendous DIY-ers
 
A/C Leak

Issue 1: A/C leak. I charged the A/C (07 Altima) and after a week or so, it stops blowing cold.
This morning I noticed this:

 
Need a new hose (or a new fitting on the old one), so new hose it should be.

AC-qualified shop will recover the refrigerant (if there's any left to recover at this point, which I doubt), replace hose, new o-rings, evacuate and recharge. Figure $125.00 plus parts.
 
A/C Leak

Issue 1: A/C leak. I charged the A/C (07 Altima) and after a week or so, it stops blowing cold.
This morning I noticed this:


Bad hose. This one you probably want to take to an auto A/C shop. The system needs to be vacuumed down, the hose replaced and vacuumed down again before recharging. You most likely don't have to tools for this AND you technically need EPA certified equipment to reclaim the refrigerant and keep it out of the atmosphere.

John
 
Think it is the suction hose. About $49.00 from RockAuto.
 

Attachments

  • Bryan AC Hoses.pdf
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P0300 Random Cylinder Midfire

Service engine light coming on and the code is P0300
Mrs 6PC changed the plugs:

Badazz right?
attachment.php


That didn't help

I researched and learned P0300 requires a minimum of 2 cylinders to misfire so that rules out the plugs coils anyway (unlikely anyway)

Vacuum Leak?
Bad Fuel Filter?

What might I check?
 

Attachments

  • PlugChange.jpg
    PlugChange.jpg
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Need a new hose (or a new fitting on the old one), so new hose it should be.

AC-qualified shop will recover the refrigerant (if there's any left to recover at this point, which I doubt), replace hose, new o-rings, evacuate and recharge. Figure $125.00 plus parts.


Ok, There is refrigerant in there, I keep adding more.
That stuff smells soooo gooood ;)

I will look for an A/C shop. I was hoping it was something I could do at the house :(
 
Bad hose. This one you probably want to take to an auto A/C shop. The system needs to be vacuumed down, the hose replaced and vacuumed down again before recharging. You most likely don't have to tools for this AND you technically need EPA certified equipment to reclaim the refrigerant and keep it out of the atmosphere.

John


You sure I can't just put a couple drops of epoxy in there and wrap it in Duct Tape :lol:
 
I am going to try and avoid that. No car payment > New Car smell

Wrong technique, you're a pilot now, things are different. When I say "new" I mean it in the aviation sense of new to you 30 year old. Manly men pilots and I think Brians get new cars by going on Craig's List and typing in $1000 and making a selection based on how cool you look driving it. You don't do anything but put gas, oil, and tires on and drive it a couple of years until it will no longer go (or stop), then you call the scrapper and have them pick it up and give $400.

That's how you maximize a flying budget.:D
 
Wrong technique, you're a pilot now, things are different. When I say "new" I mean it in the aviation sense of new to you 30 year old. Manly men pilots and I think Brians get new cars by going on Craig's List and typing in $1000 and making a selection based on how cool you look driving it. You don't do anything but put gas, oil, and tires on and drive it a couple of years until it will no longer go (or stop), then you call the scrapper and have them pick it up and give $400.

That's how you maximize a flying budget.:D

I TOTALLY resemble that remark.....but you've got to remember, this is 2015.....one should search for $2,500. (doesn't mean you have to PAY $2500, you can typically get them down to around 21, 22'ish) :yesnod:
 
My Head is spinning!
WHY is the fuel filter inside the gas tank???
Holy Hell.
 
My Head is spinning!
WHY is the fuel filter inside the gas tank???
Holy Hell.

Isn't it an entire filter/hp pump assembly? Ease of manufacture and protection of the fuel pump. The filter has to be before the pump to protect it(these aren't the old 8psi Max diaphragm pumps, these are expensive high pressure pumps for the EFI.), so the filter has to be in the tank with the pump. Not sure if that is how your system is, but it is typical.
 
Of course you can. You just may not get the results you want. :lol:

John

If you cleaned it and scuffed it good with a scrubby pad and flushed it clean, then built a wad of Marine Tex, or Devcon Aluminum, epoxy putty and fully encased the fitting and embedded a wrap of fiberglass tape, it would hold fine.
 
My Head is spinning!
WHY is the fuel filter inside the gas tank???
Holy Hell.
Because that's where the fuel is located?

Seriously though, pull the back seat to see if there is a round cover which gives access to the fuel pump assembly. Or search the link provided above prior to pulling the rear seat.
 
I'll also say there's an amazing amount of information online (especially videos) to show how to change things out. You do have to watch for good info vs. bad (on the internet?! Who knew!?!) but it's out there. I've been doing some suspension work on my daughter's Mazda 3 and found videos of everything I needed which was nice.

Google changing 20xx Nissan Altima fuel filter and see if you can find one.

Fill in your year and model.

John
 
Isn't it an entire filter/hp pump assembly? Ease of manufacture and protection of the fuel pump. The filter has to be before the pump to protect it(these aren't the old 8psi Max diaphragm pumps, these are expensive high pressure pumps for the EFI.), so the filter has to be in the tank with the pump. Not sure if that is how your system is, but it is typical.

Not necessarily. Most fuel pumps I've replaced in EFI cars just use the sock as the upstream filter. The sock is enough to protect the pump. The downstream filter protects the injectors.

Although the pump and filter may be part of the same assembly, I've found that most of the time the components can be replaced separately (and much less-expensively) if the DIYer has even a passing familiarity with basic hand tools. Most cars I've replaced fuel pumps on actually use the same pump. The only things that are different are the bracket and the price.

For example, my old Sportage used an "assembly" that was basically just a metal bracket that held the fuel pump, the float, and the rheostat for the gas gauge. That was the only way that Kia or most other suppliers sold the pump, and the price was > $400.00. For a mechanic to do it would cost about $500.00 to $600.00 on average, including labor.

But the pump itself was generic. With a screwdriver, a utility knife, a pair of needle-nose pliers, about four inches of fuel line, and two high-pressure hose clamps, it could easily be replaced with a top-quality aftermarket replacement pump for a total cost of about $50.00 - $60.00 if you knew where to look for the parts. Replacing it was a relaxed one-hour job at most if you knew about the trap door under the rear seat -- maybe a bit more if the screws were rusty.

Rich
 
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Two things you might want to invest in, Bryan:

1. An Alldata DIY subscription for your car(s); and

2. Torque, which is a pretty darn good OBD2 scanner app that runs on Android or BlackBerry 10.

Rich
 
Isn't it an entire filter/hp pump assembly? Ease of manufacture and protection of the fuel pump. The filter has to be before the pump to protect it(these aren't the old 8psi Max diaphragm pumps, these are expensive high pressure pumps for the EFI.), so the filter has to be in the tank with the pump. Not sure if that is how your system is, but it is typical.

All true, but the real reason is that vapor lock is impossible if the entire fuel line is under pressure. Immersing in gasoline also helps cool the pump motor.

Most cars have access panels in the trunk or under the back seat. It's pickup trucks that really suck here.

Why are you going after the fuel filter? Measure the pressure at the rail at cruise RPM. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. In the absence of a high throttle stumble, it's doing its job. I have yet to replace a filter more than once on any vehicle I've owned, and my record is over 300,000 miles. I've only had a pump burn out once in 20 years, though I replaced the high pressure pump housing in the VW once when it started leaking.
 
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All true, but the real reason is that vapor lock is impossible if the entire fuel line is under pressure. Immersing in gasoline also helps cool the pump motor.

Most cars have access panels in the trunk or under the back seat. It's pickup trucks that really suck here.

Also reduces the risk, and the extra cost to secure against, presented by the higher pressure pumps failing and spraying mist. Inside the fuel tank where it captures the fuel and remains in a >UEL inerted environment, the risk of fire and explosion is virtually eliminated.
 
My Head is spinning!
WHY is the fuel filter inside the gas tank???
Holy Hell.
Because it's supposed to last the life of the car. In-tank filters are seldom a problem unless you are constantly filling up with bad gas.
I researched and learned P0300 requires a minimum of 2 cylinders to misfire so that rules out the plugs coils anyway (unlikely anyway)
What makes you say that? It's fairly common in newer cars to have the coil packs go bad. That's more likely than a fuel filter. Could even be a vacuum hose or bad O2 sensor.

Unless you have a scanner that can do live data, you could be hunting around in the dark for a light switch that isn't there.
 
Because it's supposed to last the life of the car. In-tank filters are seldom a problem unless you are constantly filling up with bad gas.
What makes you say that? It's fairly common in newer cars to have the coil packs go bad. That's more likely than a fuel filter. Could even be a vacuum hose or bad O2 sensor.

Unless you have a scanner that can do live data, you could be hunting around in the dark for a light switch that isn't there.


It is an assumption of course.
If one coil or plug had gone bad, I would have been getting a "Cylinder 2 Misfire" and then when the 2nd one failed, it would upgrade to "Random Cylinder Misfire"

This just started out of the blue so I am thinking it is something upstream.
We did change the plugs thought because they had 120k miles on them.

My car had the "Cylinder X" misfire message a month or so back, and I pulled the plug and it was all kinds of nasty. Bent, and black , and covered w. crap. Changed em out and it is back in business. I was hoping that would be the case here.
 
Even cars with one coil per cylinder can have them share grounds.

Troubleshoot it like an unknown computer system. Check inputs and outputs. Guessing is not at all cheaper than a shop.

If you're going to work on this a lot, you might consider the factory service manuals. Check EBay.

A bent plug? Verify your timing marks. Make sure it's the correct heat range. Take a look at the piston top with a flashlight. That shouldn't happen. Hopefully the guy who installed it just had a few too many beers.

Black plugs are a symptom. If oily, it means expensive machine work (rings or valve guides). If dry, something upstream is causing weak spark or excessive fuel. I've seen the latter happen due to a blown fuel pressure regulator, only in the closest cylinder.
 
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I'd check the intake and vacuum system for obvious leaks first.

One way to do this is (carefully!) with the engine running spray small amounts of carb cleaner around suspected leaks. If the RPM goes up, you found one.

If the O2 sensor goes bad, I'm pretty sure you get a unique code for that. (At least my 1998 Maxima did.) YMMV (Your Model May Vary).

John
 
I'd check the intake and vacuum system for obvious leaks first.

One way to do this is (carefully!) with the engine running spray small amounts of carb cleaner around suspected leaks. If the RPM goes up, you found one.

If the O2 sensor goes bad, I'm pretty sure you get a unique code for that. (At least my 1998 Maxima did.) YMMV (Your Model May Vary).

John

Carb cleaner doesn't work anymore, it's all non flammable these days. Starting fluid however is still effective.
 
I have about a 3-5 hour limit for car work before I hand it to the pros.
I enjoy working on cars a great deal but my back will hurt for a week if I spend too much time on it.

I have 1 vacuum hose that is split at the connection. I am going to replace that and the air filter and then turn it over to my new best friend Ricco at Shell.
That guy has saved me so much money.
 
I saw a youtube video where a dude smokes a cigarette and blows the smoke into a tube connected to a vacuum intake to see where smoke comes out.

I don't have any cigarettes so I tried using some nicorette gum. I think I made things worse.
 
You sure I can't just put a couple drops of epoxy in there and wrap it in Duct Tape :lol:

Dont laugh, I've done it....and it works. Unload the pressure from the system, use brake clean or similar to remove the oil from outside of the fitting. Scuff the fitting with emery paper. I used a 2 part "play-doh" type log of epoxy, the resin on on the outside and the hardener is on the inside. Just snap a little off, and kneed it. It looked like someone had stuck a piece of gum on there, but you could hang meat on the inside.
 
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A simple vacuum gauge connected to the intake manifold can tell you a lot about an engine.

Google vacuum gauge diagnosis.
 
Carb cleaner doesn't work anymore, it's all non flammable these days. Starting fluid however is still effective.

Good to know. I still have my old can of it which works like starting fluid.

John
 
P0300 Random Cylinder Midfire

Service engine light coming on and the code is P0300
Mrs 6PC changed the plugs:

Badazz right?
attachment.php


That didn't help

I researched and learned P0300 requires a minimum of 2 cylinders to misfire so that rules out the plugs coils anyway (unlikely anyway)

Vacuum Leak?
Bad Fuel Filter?

What might I check?

The car was fine.. till you let a GIRL work on it.......:D:D:D
 
Carb cleaner doesn't work anymore, it's all non flammable these days. Starting fluid however is still effective.

I seldom need carb cleaner. Brake cleaner, on the other hand, is a must have.

Both are still flammable, though they are no longer chlorinated. But if you have doubts, an unlit propane torch works just as well. Wear a face shield and keep a fire extinguisher handy, just in case.

Honestly, a bad vacuum leak isn't hard to HEAR with the engine idling.

A vacuum gauge gives you a ton of diagnostics, but it isn't that great at finding leaks. Among other reasons, big leaks look a lot like retarded timing.
 
I seldom need carb cleaner. Brake cleaner, on the other hand, is a must have.

Both are still flammable, though they are no longer chlorinated. But if you have doubts, an unlit propane torch works just as well. Wear a face shield and keep a fire extinguisher handy, just in case.

Honestly, a bad vacuum leak isn't hard to HEAR with the engine idling.

A vacuum gauge gives you a ton of diagnostics, but it isn't that great at finding leaks. Among other reasons, big leaks look a lot like retarded timing.

CRC products in the red cans (Brake Clean & Electramotive) are still the same chlorinated solvent they ever were.:dunno: The non chlorinated stuff in the green can smells like Berryman's B-12.
 
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