Unnecessarily Long Bahamas Trip Write-Up

mcmanigle

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John McManigle
This got even longer than I thought it would, so TL/DR: Flew from Raleigh-Durham to the Bahamas via Fort Lauderdale Executive. Bought the AOPA Bahamas guide book thing and it explained requirements pretty well, but there were still some surprises along the way. Just like everything I've experienced so far in aviation, if you are upfront about what you know and don't know, what you did and didn't do, everyone along the way wants things to go smoothly and will help you out. If you want to fly somewhere / do something, the best thing to do is call the FBO and ask them what to do.


Hello all,

I recently returned from my first international trip, to the Bahamas. I thought I'd write up the aviation experience from the perspective of a first-timer (i.e., my own) in case anyone else is considering it. At the end a few details of the non-aviation part, and I'll reply here later once I have a blog post with pictures of the non-aviation part ready.

Background: This was kind of a "make-up honeymoon" after a covid wedding about a year ago. My wife loves the beach, I love new flying adventures, so we thought we'd give it a go. Plan was for 4 nights in Exumas, 5 nights in Nassau, possibly an out-island trip or two, and possibly one night in Bimini at the end of the trip.

Our home base is RDU, flying a Cessna 182H (3-person partnership) with long-range tanks (78 gallons usable). I have 550ish hours, and plenty of experience VFR (usually without flight plans, with flight following on most cross-countries) and IFR, as well as lots of time in / around the Washington DC ADIZ and FRZ (mostly VFR, occasionally IFR).

General prep from the US side: The basic checklist you can find just about anywhere: annual user fee decal from Customs and Border Patrol, eAPIS declaration including plane details and crew/passenger manifest for each flight leaving or entering the USA, and a flight plan (DVFR or IFR) for any flight that crosses the US border ADIZ. A few unexpected details on this:

- CBP sticker: Somehow the CBP payment website was malfunctioning when I tried to apply for the sticker. I could prepare the whole order, but when it came time to pay ($30/calendar year), the website would malfunction ("access denied") independent of browser, device, etc. This was a little concerning at the time (4-6 weeks before departure) because I'd heard it can take a while to get the sticker after submission. After several days and several phone calls with no luck in fixing the web issue, one of the reps said "we can email you a form to fax back to us" (of course they can -- it's the government). I paid the fee that way and had the decal about a week later (much faster turn-around than expected).

- eAPIS registration: Was told the first-time eAPIS registration could also take several days to a week or two, so was expecting a long registration process followed by a wait. In reality, all of the sign-up stuff seemed automated (no delays at all) and after submitting my first trip manifest, it was "approved" within half an hour or so.

- Flight plan: Went DVFR. I'll get to details later, which I still don't fully understand and would appreciate comments from the more experienced people here.

Survival prep: I'm no authority on this, but will tell you what I did anyway.

- Life jackets: Requirement is one life jacket per person. Didn't want to skimp, and hope to use these again in the future, so went with Switlik constant wear jackets from Sporty's. ("X-Back Basic" $350 for me because pockets, "Aviator" $260 for my wife. If I had more adult passengers, I might go with the belt-worn type ~$100). No complaints on comfort for several hours of wear.

- Life raft: Not required, but recommended. After making a few phone calls, arranged a 4-person, non-TSO raft rental through Inflatables International. Per their email, rate is $395 for 7 days. Russ from Inflatables International dropped this off at our Florida FBO (Fort Lauderdale Executive Jet Center) and picked it up after we left it there for him at the end of the trip. He called us when it was there, and replied to email promptly when I sent one after dropping it back off. If we wind up doing this more regularly, we'll probably buy one (~$1500) but happy to do it this way as a trial. Didn't have to open/use it, but instructions seemed clear.

- EPIRB: Strong recommendation. Can either get Garmin InReach type devices ($350-450ish) which include various forms of breadcrumbs, satellite messaging, etc., and require battery charging and a subscription, or ACR ResQLink type products ($300-350ish) which don't require charging or a subscription, last about 5 years, and have no features other than the big one -- send an SOS signal to local SAR. We opted for the latter, because generally we weren't going anywhere without cell service, and didn't want to worry about keeping the battery charged or paying for a subscription.

- First aid / land survival: Primary goal was to be prepared for the trip itself (minor injuries etc) and if we got in a situation where we flew to a deserted out island and the plane wouldn't start and we were stuck for a night. Updated the first aid kit, which for me is a little on the "too complete" side (focus on small cuts and scrapes, larger cuts / sutures / splints / QuickClot, allergic reactions, gastrointestinal distress) and put together a basic overnight survival kit (space blankets and disposable bivy sacs, a few ways to make fire, chemical light sticks, compass/mirror, rope, duct tape). Threw all of that in a dry bag with enough buoyancy to float. In retrospect, should have added (was on my list, but didn't make the time to grab before I left) topical itch stuff -- diphenhydramine and/or hydrocortisone cream -- as it gets buggy.

General prep from the Bahamas side: The Bahamas is very welcoming to private pilots. Fuel prices are high, as you'd expect, but aside from that fees are comparable to mid-sized US airports ($15-20 ramp fee is typical at the fancier FBOs), and service is very friendly / useful. The AOPA book has most of the details, but briefly:

- For covid, there is a "Bahamas Health Visa" that has to be completed online before arrival. You enter your name, passport number, and covid details. If you're vaccinated, you need to upload a picture of your vaccination card (but also bring the original with you even though nobody will tell you to, because customs or hotels might ask for it). If not, you need a negative covid test within a couple of days before arrival in Bahamas, and another negative test after 5 days in country.

- You have to arrive at an "Airport of Entry" during customs hours (or else be prepared for a wait) and ideally bring several filled-out copies of a "Cruising Permit", which is a special version of a flight manifest for private pilots who want to fly inter-island. Customs will take 2-3 copies and a $50 processing fee (handled by the FBO), give you one copy stamped, and that's your permission to fly within the Bahamas. Sort of.

- You also fill out a landing card per passenger on arrival. You return your copy of the Cruising Permit and landing cards to customs when you leave, along with a $29/person departure tax that the FBO will handle for you.
 
The book will tell you that all international flights (obviously) and inter-island flights to/from Nassau and Grand Bahama require flight plans. This is where things get weird in a couple of different ways:

- In addition to flight plans, apparently all inter-island flights now require individual approval from the Civil Aviation Authority, Bahamas. Maybe this is a new thing since covid, because it seems like what they need to make it happen is a copy of your cruising permit and your "health visa" printouts. It seemed pretty routine, but takes a couple of hours to process (the FBO faxes that stuff to the CAA, and then an hour and a half to two hours later, they get an email with permission). This is easy enough to ask the FBO to do for you over the phone / email the day before or a few hours before your flight if you know about it, but was news to us on our first inter-island flight (Exumas to Nassau) so bought us an unexpected 2-hour FBO wait. For what it's worth, the FBO people told us that technically it's a requirement for any inter-island flight, but that it's only "enforced" for flights involving Nassau, Grand Bahama, and maybe one other airport?

- For the one out-and-back inter-island flight we took from Nassau to North Eleuthera, instead of taking our Cruising Permit with us, the FBO people made up a new Transire form for us just for that trip. That got stamped twice at North Eleuthera (arrival and departure) and then turned back in to the Nassau FBO when we returned.

- I still don't fully understand how their VFR flight plans work. I'm used to the American model, where VFR flight plans are SAR-only, nothing to do with ATC, and I suspect that's how it works in out-island to out-island flights (where they are optional). We wound up only flying to/from Nassau, and here's how flight plans went after I figured it out:
* Before getting in the plane, call flight service and file a VFR flight plan with all of the normal international flight plan things, including pilot name/phone, plane home base, life jackets and rafts on board, etc.
* Getting in the plane (outbound) or getting close to Nassau (inbound), call clearance delivery (outbound) or approach (inbound), who "sees" the flight plan that you filed on the phone and gives you a squawk code. (If they don't see it, they'll tell you go to file again on the phone.)
* After takeoff, call Radio to try to "activate" the flight plan, but then they ask you all of the flight plan filing questions all over again, including name/phone number, life rafts, etc., while you're airborne. You can close this with Radio when you land, or if flying to an out island can request a "no-close plan."
* For what it's worth, I once tried to file an inter-island flight plan with ForeFlight. I read somewhere that it would take 6 hours to "work through" the system, so filed it the day before, but found no evidence the next day that it lived anywhere beyond my iPad.

Based on all of this, my working conclusion (happy to be corrected by those with more experience) is that there are basically two completely unrelated types of "VFR flight plan" in the Bahamas -- one that goes to ATC and pre-notifies them of your details so you can get a squawk code and services (similar to an IFR plan here) and the other that happens with Flight Service and is for SAR only (similar to a VFR plan here). The "ATC kind" is filed on the phone (or by fax from FBO to tower) and the "Flight Service kind" as far as I can tell can only be filed with Radio by radio. I assume both are required for flights involving Nassau and Grand Bahama, but ???.

Random weather stuff: At least while we were there, there seemed to be a scattered cumulous layer at all times around 2k feet. It's present from early morning, and builds up during the day (what else would you expect with warm water below?). This was very easy to deal with VFR, while IFR people kept requesting 10 degrees right here, 20 degrees left there. The ATC folks on both the Miami and Nassau sides were great about keeping the IFR people out of the weather, but as others have said before, VFR is the way to go if you can. (Also, apparently IFR with full procedures required for any night flying -- I didn't try it.)

Returning to the US: This went mostly by the book. Just to cover all my bases, I filed a DVFR flight plan on ForeFlight, called to file a Bahamian VFR flight plan, and submitted an updated eAPIS declaration* the night before. Before departure, called US Customs at FXE with an estimated arrival time (this part is apparently critical, and forgetting it can result in very unpleasant customs experiences).

Standard procedure is to take off from Nassau with VFR radar services, they terminate services as you get away from them, then you talk to Miami Radio near Bimini to open the DVFR portion of your flight plan get a squawk code for ADIZ. Instead, as we were flying away from Nassau, they asked us whether we wanted a handoff to Miami Center for flight following. We accepted and (I think?) got a new squawk code. Called up Miami Radio just to be safe near Bimini, but they just told us to stay on the ATC squawk (makes sense, but didn't want to do something "wrong" and get unpleasant customs treatment), so that call was just a "position report" and "ETA revision" by 5 minutes.

(* There's no way to "modify" an eAPIS declaration -- if it's a minor change like time of day arriving, you call the customs port of arrival. If it's additional passengers, you can file a second declaration with the new passengers listed. If it's anything else including date change, you file a new declaration and then tell the customs port to cancel the old one.)


I think this is everything in terms of "lessons learned" with the exception of one weird bit with DVFR outbound. A brief summary of the trip is:

6/11/21: Flew RDU -> HNZ for fuel, then HNZ -> 09J for lunch. Worked well because it's about halfway, on the curve of the coast so it wasn't a big overwater leg, and the airport there has a golf cart "crew car" and nearby restaurants. Then 09J -> FXE for an overnight stop.

6/12/21: FXE to MYEF (Exuma International). Odd thing about DVFR flight plan: From FXE ramp, couldn't get Miami Radio. Tried a few times, then called FXE clearance, told them I had a DVFR flight plan filed but not open. They gave me a squawk code and I went on my merry way with flight following until the end of radar coverage (about 2/3 of the way from Nassau to Exuma). When I landed, called Flight Service to close the flight plan, and told it was never opened. That scared me a little, because I wasn't sure whether DVFR plans were transmitted to NORAD etc on filing or opening, but we didn't get shot down or interrogated when we got back, so I suppose all was well. (In hindsight, I guess is how Washington DC ADIZ plans have worked for me -- file and talk to ATC, but it didn't matter whether I "activated" the VFR plan. In the future, may try to "activate" on ForeFlight, if that works DVFR.)

6/12-16/21: Frolicked in Exumas. Stayed at Paradise Bay, little one-room air-conditioned hut things right on the beach. Beautiful water, plentiful sea life, etc. Only complaint is that all dining on the island was outdoors and there was no way to avoid the flies.

6/16/21: MYEF (Exuma International) to MYNN (Nassau). This was the "what do you mean, we need authorization?" trip, but after 2 hours or so, everything was sorted out and we were on our way. Used Odyssey Aviation at our destination despite higher fuel prices because every review said they would make all of the other paperwork / arrangement stuff very easy for you, and that was all absolutely right. Would do it again.

Stayed at Grand Hyatt Baha Mar (thanks, copious credit card points) which was beautiful and luxurious-feeling, but food here cost as much (though was very good with generous portions) as many hotel rooms.

6/19/21: MYNN (Nassau) to MYEH (North Eleuthera) and back. Details of the inter-island stuff above, which was streamlined by Odyssey. Took all of 7 gallons on board there and avoided a facility fee. Very brief taxi from airport to water taxi, day on Harbour Island hanging out, then water taxi -> taxi -> flight -> taxi back to the hotel on Nassau.

6/21/21: MYNN (Nassau) to FXE, FXE to JZI (Charleston) to visit my brother and break up the trip. Now waiting in Charleston for this cold front to pass over to return back to RDU.


If, three days later, you've finally made it to the end of this post, congratulations. I think this was a great way to do a first international flight, and a great way to do a make-up honeymoon. If I had to do it under less exceptional circumstances, I'd probably prefer a short-term rental on some pretty out island beach as opposed to so much time in Nassau, but have no regrets over this trip.
 
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On the bucket list of places to go. Thanks for sharing your trip report and a look at the process from a fellow pilots perspective.
 
Great write up. Most GA pilots tend to avoid Nassau because, heck, we've got planes and can go to the off the beaten path spots. My wife loved Harbour Island. I loved the seclusion of northern Long Beach. Lots of great spots to explore. I've been watching yachting YouTubers in the Bahamas during Covid and the one common theme is that no one knows the rules as they're constantly changing. Sounds like you had a great time.
 
Awesome write up. I’m definitely itching to cross a border, especially to the islands! This helps as a primer for myself.
 
I had a trip back in May that involved two different Bahamian islands, 8 pax, and delayed covid test results. It was a cluster, and in the end very little of the paperwork I had to get was actually looked at. Can't wait till its overwith.
 
Great write up! Sounds like it was a fun trip
On the bucket list of places to go. Thanks for sharing your trip report and a look at the process from a fellow pilots perspective.
Awesome write up. I’m definitely itching to cross a border, especially to the islands! This helps as a primer for myself.

Glad it was entertaining / useful!

Great write-up! Pictures?

Working on the pictures! Will reply here when I have a few ready.

Great write up. Most GA pilots tend to avoid Nassau because, heck, we've got planes and can go to the off the beaten path spots. My wife loved Harbour Island. I loved the seclusion of northern Long Beach. Lots of great spots to explore. I've been watching yachting YouTubers in the Bahamas during Covid and the one common theme is that no one knows the rules as they're constantly changing. Sounds like you had a great time.

Yes, I think the quiet off-the-beaten-path route is what we might take next time. My wife (and credit card point balance) demanded the luxury hotel experience this time, so what's what we got (with Exuma and Harbour Island thrown in for good measure).
 
As everyone said, thanks for writing this up! Sounds like a great trip, and one I hope to take soon!
 
Very cool write-up. We also chose Bahamas for our honeymoon, but stayed in Nassau/Paradise Island for the week. We switch hotels about halfway through from Atlantis to the Nassau Hilton and enjoyed both. As you mentioned, food at the resort hotels is very pricey, but when in Rome (or Nassau). Wife would love to go back, and I think we'd try to fly private just to do some island hopping, but stay on one of the out islands in a short-term rental as you mentioned.
 
No pigs?

Thanks for posting. I read the entire thing and it's giving me the itch to fly there myself. With all the information available online and from FBOs, would you still recommend getting a copy of the AOPA guide book?
 

Ha, we did see the swimming pigs in the Exumas. Did a little day tour that included that, Thunderball grotto, the iguanas, etc. Fun, if slightly head-scratchy, time.

Thanks for posting. I read the entire thing and it's giving me the itch to fly there myself. With all the information available online and from FBOs, would you still recommend getting a copy of the AOPA guide book?

I would still recommend the book, mostly for pre-trip planning. It lays things out well, and has a page with picture and details on every airstrip on the islands, as well as the “attractions” that would make you want to fly to a given field. With GPS these days the pictures are a little bit less imperative, but being able to flip through and see (for example) what the customs hours are at every field near Eleuthera is easier in my opinion than browsing through a bunch of material online.

Probably don’t need it so much once the trip is underway, but it does have nice little checklists for departing and returning to the US which can be convenient for, well, checking.
 
Awesome write up! Over the summer I got my PPL and we closed on a Cherokee Six at the beginning of last month. The Bahamas quickly rose to the top for trips we need to make. So we got a beachfront cottage reserved in Spanish Wells next summer for a week and can't wait. Thanks for sharing all the great info! I've been in gathering mode for the past month on all the processes of getting over there. Of course by the time we go I'm sure some may change but appreciate all the info none the less!
 
Thanks for the in-depth write up. I read every word. Curious about short term rentals in outer islands. Would you use VRBO or AirBNB? Curious if you considered joining Caribbean Flying Adventures? They offer discounts for lodging at a couple of places but also experienced counsel…we’ve attended a few of his presentations but haven’t yet pulled the trigger. FWIW our international trip to Vancouver Island was a lot less complicated, although it was preCovid, so.
 
One quick question.... how much do you think all the extra preparation stuff weighed?
 
One quick question.... how much do you think all the extra preparation stuff weighed?
Are you talking about life jackets, raft, etc.? Raft on the light side is 20lbs-ish, could be a hair less. But they can easily go 30-50lbs and also easily to 80lbs just depending on the model. There are some very light weight versions (without canopies, survival gear, etc.) and there are much heavier ones that have it all including food and water. Life jackets don't weigh much... probably 2-3lbs each. Everything else is highly dependent on what you deem part of your survival gear.
 
@Michelle R welcome to POA. This is a really old post but I hadn't seen it before, so thanks for bumping this necropost back to the living.

@mcmanigle - great write up. Have been back since?
You're welcome! We're thinking of a winter trip there and generally it sounds like a seasonal topic - so maybe gets a longer shelf life than others? Dunno. Appreciate the updated link to the AOPA guide @1000RR It's on order!
 
If you use the life raft that you rented, then I guess you’d have to buy a new one to return?
That's been what I've read on the websites that rented them or the policies they've sent me via e-mail or discussed on the phone.
 
@Michelle R ,
I own a home in the Abacos that I list on VRBO as well as on ABB. The truth is, it's super easy and there are plenty of folks (like on the FB groups that I mentioned) that can walk you through everything.

Most of the "guides" that you will come across to include AOPA's guide, make this trip seem next to impossible. It really is not that difficult.

I
 
I'm finishing out my PPL and hope to start instrument training. We are based out of BKV and would love to take my wife to Cat Island one day.
 
@Michelle R ,
I own a home in the Abacos that I list on VRBO as well as on ABB. While there are groups that you can certainly pay for and join to learn more about flying in the Bahamas, the truth is, it's super easy and there are plenty of folks (like on the FB groups that I mentioned) that can walk you through everything.

Most of the "guides" that you will come across to include AOPA's guide, make this trip seem next to impossible. It really is not that difficult.
^^^Spot on^^^ And thanks K9 for helping me along the way too. There's a lot of folks that are willing to chat on the phone etc. Michelle, so don't hesitate to get on some of those FB and reach out to folks. The guide you mentioned above, I also purchased... I don't recall it making the process seem overly complex but then again, I didn't buy the book to learn about the process, so didn't pay attention to that part if it did. It does give you some good info about various airports and islands though. Get on those FB groups or reach out to folks that have responded on this post or other places you've gotten on. Asking questions real time is VERY beneficial. It helped me understand the process greatly. And it's truly not that difficult. Good luck!!
 
I'm finishing out my PPL and hope to start instrument training. We are based out of BKV and would love to take my wife to Cat Island one day.
Had the same ambition as you... got my PPL July of last year... got my instrument this past March... and all along the way to getting my PPL dreamed of flying my family to the Bahamas. Made it happen this past June and it was pretty incredible! Keep the dream, you'll be there before you know it!
 
^^^Spot on^^^ And thanks K9 for helping me along the way too. There's a lot of folks that are willing to chat on the phone etc. Michelle, so don't hesitate to get on some of those FB and reach out to folks. The guide you mentioned above, I also purchased... I don't recall it making the process seem overly complex but then again, I didn't buy the book to learn about the process, so didn't pay attention to that part if it did. It does give you some good info about various airports and islands though. Get on those FB groups or reach out to folks that have responded on this post or other places you've gotten on. Asking questions real time is VERY beneficial. It helped me understand the process greatly. And it's truly not that difficult. Good luck!!
Thanks! I’ve joined one Fb group and will hunt out the other as well. We’re not easily daunted Ned have conducted a few complex flights. My husband likes the added challenge. He’s got 600 hours and is instrument rated. I’m still solo student status, hoping to get to checkride before end of the year. We’re thinking of this as a Christmas getaway for the two of us.
 
Thanks! I’ve joined one Fb group and will hunt out the other as well. We’re not easily daunted Ned have conducted a few complex flights. My husband likes the added challenge. He’s got 600 hours and is instrument rated. I’m still solo student status, hoping to get to checkride before end of the year. We’re thinking of this as a Christmas getaway for the two of us.
Awesome! Having 2 pilots up front will be even better... always is. You guys will have a blast!! Get your CBB sticker for your plane if you haven't already.
 
Nice pictures! The Bahamas always present themselves breathtaking!
 
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