Electrical Gremlin at home?

SixPapaCharlie

SixPapaCharlie

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I really need to join a home repair forum at this point but Pilots have a lot of answers to everything.

I go through light bulbs way too quick at home.
New bulbs burning out quickly so I switched them all to those sihtty halogen swirly tube things that take half a day to reach full brightness.

Caption straight from the box:
"Lasts up to 8 years!!!!" "Costs pennys per year"

So they burn out just as quickly as the Einstein bulbs I had been using.

Screw it, I'm a tech guy, I like robots, I can do the electric slide. I mean I'm hip ya know?

I'll switch to LED

Caption straight from the box:
"Lasts 22 years" "Generates gold coins!" "Will get you laid constantly"

At $20 / bulb, imagine how excited I am that I have now had 2 of them burn out in 3 months.


Isn't the electricity in my house some how regulated such that if more amps are being sent the ohms meter will short circu... I have no effing clue how it works.

Can I install a big dimmer switch at the curb and just dial it back a bit?
kidding.

In my last two houses, I would change light bulbs at the rate of almost never ever. Given my history with ladders (shoulder surgery is in 2 weeks by the way) it is only a matter of time before I fall off one again due to the frequency with which they are burning out in this house.

I just wanted to go green...

...For Henning
 
My guesses...

Excessive heat, excessive vibration, excessive voltage/spikes, water leaking from a faucet:D, loose connections(have electrician check panel lugs), ensure you have two ground rods driven 8' deep- water the soil around your ground rods weekly, cheap Chinese bulbs, cheap Chinese fixtures or children.

You just lost an a/c fan motor too. If all else fails then get the power company to connect a recorder, then you may see exactly what is happening. Here you go again with that home warranty company.
 
If it is happening all over the house, then it is likely not related to any one specific fixture. And if LEDs and CFLs are burning out, it is not related to heat dissipation in a fixture either.

Can you use a voltmeter to see what you're getting in a few outlets around the house. Obviously set the meter for AC Volts. If it has a range option, set it for at least 200. When you test an outlet, you should see 110-120 volts.

If you're seeing substantially and consistently more than 120v all over the house, or more than 240 volts on the big outlet for your dryer or oven, you need to call the power company. The problem is likely your transformer, but this would be exceedingly rare. Those things don't generally do that.

Do you notice some lights getting dimmer and some getting brighter when you turn on appliances or other large devices? Or some outlets with a high voltage and some with a low voltage? Are other electronic devices acting stupid or burning up? If you have these symptoms, you need to call an electrician and the power company immediately. These are signs of an failing neutral from the pole. The failing connection would be somewhere between the transformer on the pole and the panel in your house. If it is between the pole and the meter, generally the power company is responsible for fixing it. From the meter inward is your problem for an electrician. If the neutral fails completely, a large appliance turning on can start an electrical fire and wreck everything electronic in the house.
 
Pedals2Paddles said:
Can you use a voltmeter to see what you're getting in a few outlets around the house. Obviously set the meter for AC Volts. If it has a range option, set it for at least 200. When you test an outlet, you should see 110-120 volts.
Click to expand...

Yep. My house was going through lightbulb after lightbulb and some other odd things were happening too. I tested the voltage inside the house and it was 145v or thereabouts. The transformer at the street had gone bad. The utility company fixed it and everything was back to normal.
 
125 volts is optimal, but if your over 128-130 call your provider. Or if you don't have a volt meter just call provider & explain that your going through a lot of light bulbs. They will come check. Also if you have a new digital electric meter , it may show voltage. If it's over 255 volts they need to check it. Could be transformer needs changing. More than likely a regulator is stepped up too much or capacitors need to be pulled offline.
 
+2 on the high voltage / spikes....... It is probably the secondary voltage being too high .....killing your stuff...

Just keep in mind, when you call the power company, they will NOT admit to any problems with their system to prevent having to pay out damage claims...

Our power provider here is a co-op and is VERY well run.. We buy quality stuff and our lines run 122.4 -122.6 volts and 244.8 -245.2 on every drop I have ever tested... We also have the cheapest electrical rates in the country too...:yes:....:)...:)...:)...
 
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No help here but I'm curious about the fact that 3 different bulb technologies are burning out due to what is probably a single condition (too high voltage?).

Can any EE-types that are at one with Ohms law comment? I guess faulty house power will whack out any lighting system but just curious.

BTW, hope you get to the bottom of it before it gets to the bottom of your wallet - bulbs are getting expensive... At the Apple Store
 
If you find some outlets have high voltage (+130)) and others low (100) you probably have a floating neutral. That would cause an imbalance between the two "phases" (Also the range and dryer will read correctly at 240). Have the neutral at the box checked.
 
The curly bulb ones are not Halogens, they are Fluorescent.

Dimmers on LEDs, especially ones running on AC voltage are very tricky, there are only a few dim-able AC LEDs I have come across. What you do for LEDs is use toroidal transformers to create DC and use DC bulbs, do not use the electronic transformers made for Halogens as the LEDs do not pull enough amperage to make them function. The dimming even on the LEDs meant to be dimmed is limited, they will not dim all the way down like an incandescent bulb. Also one of the problems plaguing LED lights is cheap Chinese manufacturing. Quality LEDs will last 20 years but for me, the big thing is they don't create the heat of halogens (there have been several yachts burn down to the water line due to this) and they stand up to the pounding and shuddering of a boat going to sea. With Halogens and standard Incandescent type bulbs I'm changing 30% of the bulbs throughout the boat after every passage that sees a bit of rough water, and typically will change every bulb on the boat a couple times a year, with $10+ per bulb costs. This is not only expensive, but a PITA not only due to having to change them, but also because I have to keep a lot of spares in inventory.

Take a look at the Phillips Hue system if you want an easy conversion with quality gear.
 
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Bill Watson said:
No help here but I'm curious about the fact that 3 different bulb technologies are burning out due to what is probably a single condition (too high voltage?).

Can any EE-types that are at one with Ohms law comment? I guess faulty house power will whack out any lighting system but just curious.

BTW, hope you get to the bottom of it before it gets to the bottom of your wallet - bulbs are getting expensive... At the Apple Store
Click to expand...

I = E/R - more voltage = more current = more heat = pffffft bulb.
 
Henning:
You're right that many electronic dimmers (and pretty much all plain ol' rheostat-based dimmers) will not work properly with LED bulbs.

For dimming LEDs, you want a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) dimmer - essentially, a high-speed switcher that turns the LED on and off really fast to create the impression of dimmed lights.

And cheaply-made bulbs are a problem, too, no doubt.
 
SCCutler said:
Henning:
You're right that many electronic dimmers (and pretty much all plain ol' rheostat-based dimmers) will not work properly with LED bulbs.

For dimming LEDs, you want a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) dimmer - essentially, a high-speed switcher that turns the LED on and off really fast to create the impression of dimmed lights.

And cheaply-made bulbs are a problem, too, no doubt.
Click to expand...

Running DC eliminates that, and the PWM dimmers coupled to a cheap bulb set up a strobe effect that will make a normally calm person into psychotic axe murderer.:rofl: Seriously, I put up with it for an hour during dinner once and was ready to kill people.:lol: Next day I got the toroidal transformers and rectified the lighting circuit and went to a DC circuit. After that there were no more issues.
 
magicj said:
If you find some outlets have high voltage (+130)) and others low (100) you probably have a floating neutral. That would cause an imbalance between the two "phases" (Also the range and dryer will read correctly at 240). Have the neutral at the box checked.
Click to expand...

I'do agree to the possibility of the neutral floating. I don't like the use of the term "phases" as most o four houses are all single phase power with two "legs" from the transformer.
 
EppyGA said:
I'do agree to the possibility of the neutral floating. I don't like the use of the term "phases" as most o four houses are all single phase power with two "legs" from the transformer.
Click to expand...

I call US power 'Split Phase 240'.
 
Repeating with emphasis since I don't want your house to burn down.

Pedals2Paddles said:
Do you notice some lights getting dimmer and some getting brighter when you turn on appliances or other large devices? Or some outlets with a high voltage and some with a low voltage? Are other electronic devices acting stupid or burning up? If you have these symptoms, you need to call an electrician and the power company immediately. These are signs of an failing neutral from the pole. The failing connection would be somewhere between the transformer on the pole and the panel in your house. If it is between the pole and the meter, generally the power company is responsible for fixing it. From the meter inward is your problem for an electrician. If the neutral fails completely, a large appliance turning on can start an electrical fire and wreck everything electronic in the house.
Click to expand...
 
Pedals2Paddles said:
If it is happening all over the house, then it is likely not related to any one specific fixture. And if LEDs and CFLs are burning out, it is not related to heat dissipation in a fixture either.

Can you use a voltmeter to see what you're getting in a few outlets around the house. Obviously set the meter for AC Volts. If it has a range option, set it for at least 200. When you test an outlet, you should see 110-120 volts.

If you're seeing substantially and consistently more than 120v all over the house, or more than 240 volts on the big outlet for your dryer or oven, you need to call the power company. The problem is likely your transformer, but this would be exceedingly rare. Those things don't generally do that.

Do you notice some lights getting dimmer and some getting brighter when you turn on appliances or other large devices? Or some outlets with a high voltage and some with a low voltage? Are other electronic devices acting stupid or burning up? If you have these symptoms, you need to call an electrician and the power company immediately. These are signs of an failing neutral from the pole. The failing connection would be somewhere between the transformer on the pole and the panel in your house. If it is between the pole and the meter, generally the power company is responsible for fixing it. From the meter inward is your problem for an electrician. If the neutral fails completely, a large appliance turning on can start an electrical fire and wreck everything electronic in the house.
Click to expand...

First think I'd do, too. I have a fixture in our bathroom that was installed in the remodel in 1996. Haven't replaced a bulb in the years since. IIRC, those bulbs are industrial rated and their rated voltage is 130 VAC. As they never see that they aren't over stressed. I hope they last another 18 years. :yes:

Texastaildragger said:
125 volts is optimal, but if your over 128-130 call your provider. Or if you don't have a volt meter just call provider & explain that your going through a lot of light bulbs. They will come check. Also if you have a new digital electric meter , it may show voltage. If it's over 255 volts they need to check it. Could be transformer needs changing. More than likely a regulator is stepped up too much or capacitors need to be pulled offline.
Click to expand...

125 VAC sounds a touch high to me. Not outrageous, but a touch high. YMMV.

Henning said:
I call US power 'Split Phase 240'.
Click to expand...

A good description.
 
Off to Home depot

And Just FYI I dont have any dimmers in the house.
 
Ghery said:
125 VAC sounds a touch high to me. Not outrageous, but a touch high. YMMV.



A good description.
Click to expand...

20'year Lineman here. Deal with it everyday. Best way to check for a bad ground is turn on the microwave. If lights dim in one place & get bright in another then you have a floating neutral.
 
EppyGA said:
I'do agree to the possibility of the neutral floating. I don't like the use of the term "phases" as most o four houses are all single phase power with two "legs" from the transformer.
Click to expand...

Which is why "phases" is in quotes. It's wrong but get's the point across. Yes the term split-phase is more accurate. The point is to check the neutral.
 
Texastaildragger said:
20'year Lineman here. Deal with it everyday. Best way to check for a bad ground is turn on the microwave. If lights dim in one place & get bright in another then you have a floating neutral.
Click to expand...

+1.....26 years
Large blow dryer will work also.

Do you have a overhead service feeding your house? If it runs through trees the neutral conductor (bare shiny one) may have rubbed in two or a squirrel may have chewed rough it creating a load imbalance between phases, or an "open neutral".
Usually in these scenarios it is more immediate like your TV or microwave will be Tango Uniform.
If it is indeed a problem on the utility's side it is likely a corroded connection or a burned transformer lug.
They may install a voltage recorder for a week or so if they suspect a problem.
If a utility tech checks it out ask him to use a "beast of burden" to check the integrity of the neutral. It is a tool that tries to create a load imbalance. It never lies.

Also, if you use a digital volt meter be sure the batteries are fresh. Old batteries generally give a false high reading.

Most utilities allow + or - 5% of delivery voltage on residential service and 10% on commercial.
On a 120/240V residential service that allows for 126/254V on the high side. Whatever it is it should be consistent.

Good Luck...
 
ok,I didn't get a chance to go to Home Depot.
I need to call someone 3 more light bulbs burnt out today.

2 outside, and one in the kitchen.

Something isn't right.

And yes, when my AC turns on, all the lights dim in the house briefly.
Not sure if other appliances have this affect.
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
ok,I didn't get a chance to go to Home Depot.
I need to call someone 3 more light bulbs burnt out today.

2 outside, and one in the kitchen.

Something isn't right.

And yes, when my AC turns on, all the lights dim in the house briefly.
Not sure if other appliances have this affect.
Click to expand...

You might want to test the smoke detectors, turn the main breaker off when not home and call an electrician. Fly safe.

If all lights dim slightly for less than 1/2 second during compressor startup...that is normal. A typical compressor pulls 60-100 Amps on initial start.
 
What about 120v appliances like a microwave, hair dryer, vacuum, etc. Does one of those make 1/2 the lights dim and others get bright?
 
So I tried a handful of outlets and no flicker of the lights

I tried a hallway outlet w/ the vacuum and the lights flickered
so I got the heir dryer plugged it onto that same outlet and turned it on and got that light flicker.

So it is only certain outlets and interesting fact, the light that flickered w/ the vacuum / hair dryer is one of the circuits where I am replacing bulbs frequently.
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
ok,I didn't get a chance to go to Home Depot.
I need to call someone 3 more light bulbs burnt out today.

2 outside, and one in the kitchen.

Something isn't right.

And yes, when my AC turns on, all the lights dim in the house briefly.
Not sure if other appliances have this affect.
Click to expand...

Are you on Coserve ? Call them NOW!!!! Tell them it's an emergency & explain what you've been going through. I'm guessing most of your appliances have digital boards in them. They don't take imbalances very well. Liable to burn something up. If you call an electrician have them check to see if you have a ground rod driven at your house. If not get one.
If you're on OnCor , good luck getting someone there quickly.
Like Redneck Pilot said if it's running through trees, that's the first place to look.
 
It's all underground I think Closest actual power lines are a mile away.

Texas got decommissioned so I am using whoever is the cheapest.
I think they purchase it from TexNewMex Power Co so I am not sure if I call the reseller or the main provider.
 
Also, I have a whole house surge protector. Shouldn't that keep it flowing evenly?
No clue what that thing does actually.
 
SixPapaCharlie said:
It's all underground I think Closest actual power lines are a mile away.

Texas got decommissioned so I am using whoever is the cheapest.
I think they purchase it from TexNewMex Power Co so I am not sure if I call the reseller or the main provider.
Click to expand...

Just start calling, they'll giude you in the right direction. City hall could also probably tell you who is responsible for local distribution.
 
timwinters said:
Just start calling, they'll giude you in the right direction. City hall could also probably tell you who is responsible for local distribution.
Click to expand...

Or............... Just look at the name on the power bill...:rolleyes:
 
Henning said:
Not in TX, you can buy your electricity from third party providers who do not maintain the local infrastructure.
Click to expand...

Hmmm..

Whoever receives funds for delivered power is responsible for it to be delivered properly...
I don't care who the power generator is....
 
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