To Do List, new engine

Discussion in 'Maintenance Bay' started by Let'sgoflying!, Jul 5, 2022.

  1. Let'sgoflying!

    Let'sgoflying! Touchdown! Greaser! PoA Supporter

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    I need to prepare for an engine install, things I need to do with the fwf to be ready for the engine arrival (it's an overhaul).
    The firewall and everything mounted on it is ready.
    The tubular engine mount frame is good.
    I have all new hoses waiting.
    All 24v wiring is good.
    Battery good.
    I am dealing with all engine sensors.
    New engine isolators inbound.
    Got oil/filters.
    What else?
     
  2. Albany Tom

    Albany Tom Pattern Altitude

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    If you're more time limited than money limited, and if there's a wait for the engine, clean and/or spruce up the interior. Extending that out a bit, if you were going to upgrade to more advanced engine/fuel monitoring, now might be the time. Tossing this out as someone that couldn't afford any of this.
     
  3. NordicDave

    NordicDave Pattern Altitude

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    Letting us know the model of plane, age, and time since last overhaul would be helpful.

    One of the most frequent overlooked items is the engine frame. Only 10% pitting depth is allowed before a tube needs replacing.

    Most pilots/owner won't consider having a mount inspected unless they see cracks or broken welds. Thought mine looked great until the paint was stripped and the tube thickness measured. It was actually corroding from the inside and 4 tubes were replaced on a special jig for my model aircraft.

    Last time the mount was off the engine was 1972 when it was installed. Last engine overhaul it was ignored of course by previous owner.

    Mount was painted black pre-overhauled (Which looked "just fine"):
    IMG_0020.jpeg

    Conditioned of tubes after stripping years of paint, which filled in the pitting:
    IMG_0207.jpeg IMG_0209.jpeg

    Overhauled engine mount:
    IMG_0191.jpeg

    IMG_0693.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2022
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  4. asicer

    asicer Final Approach

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    Flush oil cooler, if present.

    Is a new starter included with the engine?

    Is the engine/airframe eligible for a SureFly?
     
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  5. Magman

    Magman Line Up and Wait

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    Engine controls?
    Baffles?
    Exhaust?
    Carb Air Box?
     
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  6. Gary Ward

    Gary Ward Line Up and Wait

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    Good advise on the engine mount...
    The firewall looks very clean which is good, but what happened to the firewall with all the dents and gouges? Wow.
     
  7. Gary Ward

    Gary Ward Line Up and Wait

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    ^^^^^^ IMO Good advise^^^^^^
     
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  8. Jdm

    Jdm Line Up and Wait

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    I agree with NorticDave in regards to engine mounts. I would definitely send them out to an official repair station for evaluation. There’s a mount shop Minnesota that’s popular. I’m sure someone here will know the name of the shop. They do quite an inspection! You’d be surprised what’s found on mounts that look great on the outside.
    I’d have the oil cooler overhauled, rather than just flushing. If it has a carburetor OH that as well. Marvel in-house OH is hard to beat! OH mags. Replace harness with new. All accessories should be overhauled ideally, but engine mounts would be on top of my list.
     
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  9. NordicDave

    NordicDave Pattern Altitude

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    Those small dents are just cosmetic and it has been inspected for integrity. A previous owner performed the last engine major in 1988 and it was the installation of the engine with that mechanic. Pattern perfectly matches the engine swinging on an engine hoist and bumping that area. Matches bolt pattern of accessory hub.

    It looks worse than it is after lightly polishing the firewall.

    Overhaul vendor used
    The Engine mount was overhauled at Loree Air in Northern California. They are probably the least expensive service in the country and they’re also one of the best. One of the very big names in the business actually sends them the amounts they can’t deal with for repair.

    Loree Air had 3 price tiers if I remember correctly. Free inspection, 2 tube replacement, and total rebuild. Mine was done a year and a half ago and the price was less than $1800. A real bargain considering the quality of work and how much hidden corrosion had to be dealt with for airworthiness.

    https://www.loreeair.com/

    Also Echo @Jdm recommending Marvel carbs should be sent to Marvel for overhaul. Talk to them about their service. It is not only the lowest costs, but all factory parts with factory people in the house. The difference between their rebuild and overhaul is very trivial and one will save you some money over the other. They basically replace 95% of the parts on a rebuild and 97% of the parts on an overhaul. Those are ballpark percentages to give you an idea of how extreme you will receive a basically new carburetor in return.
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2022
  10. mondtster

    mondtster En-Route

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    Id strongly suggest replacing the oil cooler or sending it in for a thorough cleaning rather than just running solvent through it in an attempt to flush it out.

    In many of the common flat engines the oil cooler is the first stop after the oil pump. In other words, it is sort of a filter before the main filter.
     
  11. 455 Bravo Uniform

    455 Bravo Uniform En-Route

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    SCAT (if not included in the new hoses you’re waiting on)
    Clamps
    Cowl flap control isolator bushings (if it has em)
    Lord mounts for the cowl (if it has em)
     
  12. asicer

    asicer Final Approach

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    Good point. I never thought for anyone other than a specialist to perform that task.
     
  13. Let'sgoflying!

    Let'sgoflying! Touchdown! Greaser! PoA Supporter

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    All good ones, thanks -
    So far either I have it covered (ALL accessories new or o/h), engine mount, Sceet - or it's N/A (injected; no carb; no cowl cushions)
     
  14. Dan Thomas

    Dan Thomas Final Approach

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    The oil cooler gets an accumulation of varnish in it after so many years. The same sort of stuff you see inside a crankcase, but layers of it when it's used over and over on multiple engine changes. I had one on a 172 that I had to replace with new after nothing else would bring the oil temps off the redline in a freshly overhauled engine. The new engine will run hotter until it's broken in, and a marginal cooler can't keep up with it. The new cooler cured the problem instantly.

    Solvent won't get that stuff out. It needs a carbon stripper run through it. Professional shop stuff.
     
  15. Dan Thomas

    Dan Thomas Final Approach

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    When was the alternator last apart for a brush inspection? Needs to be done at 500-hour intervals. Alternator failures are a constant storyline on POA, and it's almost always failed brushes, which usually fails the rotor, too, when the brush springs arc on the slip rings. That gets expensive.
     
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