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Discussion in 'Hangar Talk' started by Ted, Jun 7, 2021.
Oh look, an Italian harley...
Are there Harleys with timing belts? I know most of them are belt drive for the rear tire, but I thought inside they were normally chain/gears for the timing.
Seems like my old DT-1 Yamaha had a cush drive. I think the first time i ever saw one was on a 120cc Suzuki I had when I was about 14 yrs old. So they have been around for a long time.
I remember that because I didn't replace the rubber when i should have and destroyed the hub. Had to learn how to relaces spokes. Not something I am good at.
same basic layout... crank with cam right above it, driving pushrods in a V cylinder configuration. The belt in an interesting touch. Early Ducatis were called bevel-heads because they had two bevel gears driving a vertical shaft to rotate a cam in the head. They later went to belt drive.
I as surprised when I took this out to see that the cush drive was in very good shape, looked new in fact. For something that is probably original (and thus 36 years old) and made of rubber, I wouldn't have expected that. Maybe it was replaced sometime in its life. I haven't examined it closely enough to see if there's a date code on it.
Well, that's a pretty standard pushrod layout in general. But I would say it doesn't look anything like my Harley engine in that area. My Harley is a twin cam:
Small timing chain that doesn't go straight up, goes through the cam support backing plate (with an oil pump behind it), and then a second camshaft that is connected by another timing chain behind that oil plate. The layout is completely different, too, as the Harley pushrods are on the side of the engine, (i.e. not in the vee) whereas this Morini engine is a bit more like an American pushrod V8 with the camshaft up and in the middle, with the pushrods then going up in the vee. It has very tiny pushrods and rockers.
Over lunch I wandered out to the shop to examine my new Kawasaki air filter (which was theoretically an exact match for the Morini air filter). Sure enough, it's near perfect. The Kawa filter has a mesh metal screen around the outside, which increases the diameter by about 1mm, and thus it doesn't fit within one of the inner convoluted covers, which seems to exist for no reason other than to protect the stock paper filter. So I removed that part and it fits in the housing perfectly otherwise. Got that back together. So at this point it's just waiting on brakes and coating the fuel tank, and then it should be ready to run and sync up the carbs.
Yesterday the new tube for the rear tire for the Morini showed up (after I punctured the first one that came... oops...). Managed to install that successfully without puncture, got the rear tire mounted and chain adjusted. I coated the fuel tank on Tuesday with POR 15, and it's taking its 4 day dry time. I'll put it on sometime next week probably, I'd rather give it extra curing time before being exposed to gas.
I started trying to fit up the Ninja brake parts, and I'm happy with how easily they look to be fitting to start out. The calipers fit over the rotors just fine, that's no surprise. The front caliper will require a pretty simple bracket. The front brake handle/master cylinder bolts right up to the handlebars (as it should, being 7/8"). But what's even better is the brake lever matches the factory clutch lever on the other side exactly, so it doesn't look out of place. The rear master cylinder bolts right up - I'll need slightly longer bolts and a couple of spacers because it mounts backwards on the Morini from how it must've mounted on the Kawasaki. But surprisingly, the bolt hole spacing is identical. Or at least close enough that everything fits and seems factory. I'll have to weld on an elbow to the end of the Morini's rear brake pedal since it actuates differently from factory, but that's simple.
The rear caliper's adapter bracket looks like it will probably be a little bit odder, and thinking about how I want to do that one. However I'm not worried about it working, just a matter of how to best make it work.
Custom hoses will be needed for both as, not surprisingly, the distances are different. But that's expected.
Hopefully next week I'll hear it run and be able to sync the carbs and check the timing while I continue to work on the brakes.
On the BMW the new rear tire showed up, and front one is on the way. Looks like one or two nice days next week, so hopefully I can get the tires on and try them out.
I took the rear wheel off to get started changing the tire. That's when it really became obvious how worn the old tire was. It wasn't awful, but more noticeably flat in the middle. Not enough to cause issues riding it, it still leaned just fine (I've ridden bikes with 1-2 inch wide true flat spots in the middle... not fun) but you really see the difference in tread design and pattern, and how that will behave differently. I think I'll be happier with the knobs.
I need to spoon on some new shoes on the Africa twin before long. I had Mefo Explorerers on it and really like them. Looks like I can no longer get them.
Spooning the old rear tire off the BMW (breaking the bead, specifically) is not pleasant...
WE HAVE THE MEATS
I use bead breakers and make sure the tire is warm. Yes its a pain. I think the front is worse. Just not aas much rubber to flex in a smaller space. The D-606 I use on the DRZ400 has to be the worst. They are really stiff.
I hadn't thought about making sure the tire was warm. The rear on that bike was a real bear. To my surprise, the front wasn't bad at all, got that done in a matter of minutes. Maybe it's because I'd perfected my technique on the rear.
I didn't have any issues getting them on, either, although getting the front one to set the bead was a little harder for whatever reason.
Hopefully we'll get a nice day over the next week and I can take it out to try at some point.