Soundproofing materials / recommendations

MN_Flyer

Pre-takeoff checklist
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MN_Flyer
Hello all....

My flight club is looking at replacing the interior panels, seats, and carpeting in one of our aircraft. The last plane we freshened-up was done with Airtex products and turned out beautifully, but we did not invest in soundproofing at that time.

We would like to reduce some of the cabin noise on our Piper Arrow while we have all the panels removed and I am looking for some suggestions. I have seen lots of products in catalogs and online, but I am looking for feedback from anyone that has actually used any of this stuff? Where is our money best spent?

I know the 2-bladed prop is a big offender when it comes to noise and we may replace it with a 3-blade prop with a non-AD hub when it reaches TBO. In the meantime, what can I do with the interior to help? Any products in particular that you would recommend? Is there a safe way to insulate the thin plastic panel between the tail cone and the baggage compartment? Anything else we should consider doing?

Thanks in advance for your help,
Dan
 
You might want to look at the Sound X materials. I've used their product on the PA46 many times. They might make a kit for your aircraft.

I've used so many different kinds of noise reducing materials over the years. You may not be happy with the noise reduction, but you will be happier in the cold winter temps.
 
First check your door seals. These are high sources noise. You can easily replacee the seals with Home Depot foam marine weatherstrips that works better than the aviation type ($4 for 10ft). Next check for loose hardware in the panel and cabin. This would sound like rattling noise that changes with RPM. Next check the exhaust pipe alignment and attachments. Most of the engine noise comes from this pipe. Although cabin insulation helps it is no better than a good set of earplugs. Use the earplugs with your headset and you will have better performance than any ANR headset.

José
 
Door seals
dynamically balanced 3 blade prop
new lord mounts


Better headsets!

I'm not a fan of sound proofing, just more stuff to hide damage, hold water against the structure, deteriorate and foul controls etc.
 
haven't told this story in a while; wealthy gent, circa 1990, QueenAir. Re-did interior with latest hi-tech sound-deadening foam in attempt to reduce cabin noise. Spent unbridled amounts to reduce the interior dB count. Not a stupid man, used best-available sound meter, before and after to attain an objective measure of his extensive efforts, end result after all this.......


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Zero change! Cabin as noisy as ever!

(modern-day solution? ENC's)
 
Inflatable door seals, available as an STC for a reasonable price...
 
I'm always amazed that people can sit three feet behind a 300 hp engine turning an 7' propeller at 2,400 RPM and think a piece of honeycomb or lead-backed insulation or inflatable door seal will make jack-beans difference in noise level.

But having once done the same thing (in 1982) maybe us pilots have to spend the money at least once in order to get the picture.
 
haven't told this story in a while; wealthy gent, circa 1990, QueenAir. Re-did interior with latest hi-tech sound-deadening foam in attempt to reduce cabin noise. Spent unbridled amounts to reduce the interior dB count. Not a stupid man, used best-available sound meter, before and after to attain an objective measure of his extensive efforts, end result after all this.......


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.
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Zero change! Cabin as noisy as ever!

(modern-day solution? ENC's)

I had the same experience with noise insulation material. The problem is that your ears are at the same height as the windows and you don't add insulation to them. Another source of noise is air vents. Just open them to the minimum required. Still the most effective solution is earplugs. They are cheap and easy to install.

José
 
I'm always amazed that people can sit three feet behind a 300 hp engine turning an 7' propeller at 2,400 RPM and think a piece of honeycomb or lead-backed insulation or inflatable door seal will make jack-beans difference in noise level.

But having once done the same thing (in 1982) maybe us pilots have to spend the money at least once in order to get the picture.

The door seals are the only thing that has ever done jack, both our twins have them, noticeable difference when you pump them up. Still not huge.
 
Thanks for all the feedback Guys...

Kind of what I figured. I had seen the kits from SoundEX and the $750 almost seemed like trying. The mass loaded vinyl stuff also seemed like it could work from a scientific point of view, but the added 40 or so pounds is unwelcome in this aircraft. So a new door seal it is! We can spend the money we saved on a giant pallet of ear plugs then.

Thanks,
Dan
 
You missed the best solution for reasonable funds; piloto, Duncan and I mentioned it: ANC/ENC headsets. A significant difference!
 
When will they come up with active noise cancellation that covers the entire cabin like the Bombardier Q400?
 
When will they come up with active noise cancellation that covers the entire cabin like the Bombardier Q400?


When all the occupants are willing to keep their heads on a fix position throughout the whole flight. The problem with cabin active noise reduction is that as you move your head around you experience quiet spots and noisy ones and becomes more annoying than no ANR. It is also expensive and no better than a good sound proof interior.

José
 
My flight club is looking at replacing the interior panels, seats, and carpeting in one of our aircraft. The last plane we freshened-up was done with Airtex products and turned out beautifully, but we did not invest in soundproofing at that time.

We would like to reduce some of the cabin noise on our Piper Arrow while we have all the panels removed and I am looking for some suggestions. I have seen lots of products in catalogs and online, but I am looking for feedback from anyone that has actually used any of this stuff?

My Archer II had the "super soundproofing," or whatever Piper called it, from the factory. It was basically fibeglass insulation, which loves to soak up water. When I gutted the airplane and installed the Airtex interior, I removed the fiberglass insulation and replaced it with the adhesive closed-cell foam that Airtex sells (on the bottom, top, and sides of the cabin). The closed-cell foam will not absorb water, and cabin noise was subjectively reduced when compared with the previous fibeglass.

If you have fibeglass now, I'd get it out. If you have nothing now, the investment in the adhesive closed-cell foam is probably worth it. I did not insulate the rear bulkhead, even though I had it removed, because I figured that relatively little noise and/or heat loss occurred through that area, and it was the farthest point in the cabin from the front seat passenger(s).

I had some minor surface corrosion under the fibeglass wherema window and the cabin door seal had leaked. Those areas were cleaned up and primed before the closed-cell foam was installed.


JKG
 
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