Reaming Valve Guildes As Preventative Maintenance

Geico266

Touchdown! Greaser!
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An A&P buddy suggested (not recommended) that I consider reaming the value guildes on my IO-540. I have no symptoms of sticking valves, but he thought it would be a good thing to do at 700 hours to avoid sticking valves.

Anyone do this?

Anyone heard of this?

He would show me how to do a couple of cylinders then I am on my own. It can be done without pulling the cylinders.
 
IMO no, not as a preventative, but I go after them at the first hint of lycoming morning sickness. There is no point in letting a problem develop.
 
The Lycoming SB recommends doing the "wobble test" at 700 hours. Don't know that I'd go reaming guides for no cause.
 
Wobble test. No point in fixing something not broke.
 
Read Lycomings SB 338C. I think the recommendation on the O-540 is every 400 hrs for the wobble check. We had a stuck valve at about 400hrs on a rebuild engine. Have gone another 1100 hrs with no problems, and one of the pilots complained of a vibration. Has not reoccurred but we are scheduling to run the SB again.
 
Read Lycomings SB 338C. I think the recommendation on the O-540 is every 400 hrs for the wobble check. We had a stuck valve at about 400hrs on a rebuild engine. Have gone another 1100 hrs with no problems, and one of the pilots complained of a vibration. Has not reoccurred but we are scheduling to run the SB again.

Can you explain the wobble test?
 
FWIW, if you can get your hands on a dental cam you can file to fit in the plug hole, you can watch (carefully!) the action of the valves as they seat. If there's no lateral action in the movement, your guides are probably in good shape with regard to what the wobble test would tell you.
 
An A&P buddy suggested (not recommended) that I consider reaming the value guildes on my IO-540. I have no symptoms of sticking valves, but he thought it would be a good thing to do at 700 hours to avoid sticking valves.

Anyone do this?

Anyone heard of this?

He would show me how to do a couple of cylinders then I am on my own. It can be done without pulling the cylinders.

You run MoGas right? Do you run LOP? If you run LOP on MoGas, I wouldn't, the only reason you need to is because the lead/carbon cake that forms. You can also try cleaning it out with a bronze brush and some gun cleaning solvent, that should do whatever cleaning without increasing your oil consumption.
 
700 hours! If they keep squeezing more power from these engines we will soon be back to an overhaul every 250 hours like the old days.

The wobble test detects signs of excess wear of the valve guide. Once found the only cure is a new set of guides being pressed in.

Sticking is a different issue.
A cause of sticking can be physical distortion in the bore of the valve guide from heat and cooling cycles. The bore of the guide actually bends/twists. You can ream the guide to straighten the bore and alleviate the sticking. Personally In higher power engines I insist on pressing in fresh guides because reaming only leads you further down the road to wobbling. In low power engines reaming can be an effective cure.
Another cause can be simple sticking due to surface galling or combustion deposits (not just lead). Here will be one of the few times you will ever see me recommend foo-foo juice.
AVBLEND is the only reliable type of foo-foo juice I have found. Much too expensive BUT way, way cheaper than having to ream the guides. I use it every other oil change. ymmv:D
 
700 hours! If they keep squeezing more power from these engines we will soon be back to an overhaul every 250 hours like the old days.

The wobble test detects signs of excess wear of the valve guide. Once found the only cure is a new set of guides being pressed in.

Sticking is a different issue.
A cause of sticking can be physical distortion in the bore of the valve guide from heat and cooling cycles. The bore of the guide actually bends/twists. You can ream the guide to straighten the bore and alleviate the sticking. Personally In higher power engines I insist on pressing in fresh guides because reaming only leads you further down the road to wobbling. In low power engines reaming can be an effective cure.
Another cause can be simple sticking due to surface galling or combustion deposits (not just lead). Here will be one of the few times you will ever see me recommend foo-foo juice.
AVBLEND is the only reliable type of foo-foo juice I have found. Much too expensive BUT way, way cheaper than having to ream the guides. I use it every other oil change. ymmv:D


Crazy how we reamed many a valve guide. You do not have to press in new guides. We did this on racing engines to help hold a little extra oil in the reamed guide. The reaming forums little ridges for the oil instead of a nice smooth guide.

Some argue they will wear out faster. Some argue the won't. I know what I found.

Tony

P.S. Reaming valve guides cost...ZERO....Not sure how one can call it expensive. Now if you must hire the work out it cost labor no parts. But its no more work then pressing in new guides. Time wise it's about the same.
 
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The wobble test detects signs of excess wear of the valve guide. Once found the only cure is a new set of guides being pressed in.

It also detects not enough clearance due to deposits and reaming would be the appropriate cure. :wink2:
 
An A&P buddy suggested (not recommended) that I consider reaming the value guildes on my IO-540. I have no symptoms of sticking valves, but he thought it would be a good thing to do at 700 hours to avoid sticking valves.

Anyone do this?

Anyone heard of this?

He would show me how to do a couple of cylinders then I am on my own. It can be done without pulling the cylinders.

The valve has to be out of to guide to ream it properly.... I cannot envision how you can do that without pulling the cylinders..:confused:..:confused:..:dunno:
 
700 hours! If they keep squeezing more power from these engines we will soon be back to an overhaul every 250 hours like the old days.

The wobble test detects signs of excess wear of the valve guide. Once found the only cure is a new set of guides being pressed in.

Sticking is a different issue.
A cause of sticking can be physical distortion in the bore of the valve guide from heat and cooling cycles. The bore of the guide actually bends/twists. You can ream the guide to straighten the bore and alleviate the sticking. Personally In higher power engines I insist on pressing in fresh guides because reaming only leads you further down the road to wobbling. In low power engines reaming can be an effective cure.
Another cause can be simple sticking due to surface galling or combustion deposits (not just lead). Here will be one of the few times you will ever see me recommend foo-foo juice.
AVBLEND is the only reliable type of foo-foo juice I have found. Much too expensive BUT way, way cheaper than having to ream the guides. I use it every other oil change. ymmv:D
GM X-66 Carbon Remover is another 'foo-foo' juice I have found very useful, mix it with oxalic acid crystals and you have a "ring job in a can" that also gets the carbon of the valves and stems. I fixed many smoking engines that way.
 
My A&P's solution to sticking valves was to clean the lead deposits off the valve stems. He did this by pulling both plugs, dropping the valve in to the cylinder, fishing the stem out of a spark plug hole, cleaning it, and manipulating it back in to the cylinder. It worked.

What are we talking about by "reaming" the valve guides? Knurling the valve guides is a common practice for correcting excessive clearances in automotive engines.
 
The Lycoming SB recommends doing the "wobble test" at 700 hours.
Not sure where you got that number. Lycoming says 400 hour interval in airplanes (300 in helos) for the old valve guides they stopped making in the late-90's, and 1000 hours or half TBO (whichever comes first) for the newer high-chrome valve guides. See SB 388C and SI 1485A for details, including how to tell which ones are in your cylinders. Aircraft Spruce sells the device for performing this test for about $200, and it takes about an hour per cylinder to do the check.

In any event, reaming the valve guides is not one of the things you can do yourself as "preventive maintenance".
 
Can you explain the wobble test?
The short description is that the valve stem is disconnected from the valve train, and the amount of "wobble" it has within the valve guide is measured and compared to a table of movement limits in SB 388C. This is done with a jig which is mounted in the rocker cover retaining screw holes -- see the link in my post above for what that looks like.
 
700 hours!
Not 700 hours -- see my post above for the actual Lycoming-recommended intervals.

The wobble test detects signs of excess wear of the valve guide. Once found the only cure is a new set of guides being pressed in.
Correct, although new valves may also be needed, as the valve stems can wear excessively "neck down" as a result of wobbling inside the guides.

Sticking is a different issue.
Not necessarily. One cause of sticking can be a result of the excessive valve guide/stem wear resulting in a larger gap between the stem and the inside wall of the guide. With that larger gap, flame up from the combustion chamber can combine with oil down from the lube system to form "coke" -- a hard carbon substance. This can fill the gap between valve stem and valve guide inner wall causing the valve to stick. It's not the only cause of valve sticking, and it's not the only possible bad outcome of valve guide wear, but it's a possibility which must be considered.


Another cause can be simple sticking due to surface galling or combustion deposits (not just lead). Here will be one of the few times you will ever see me recommend foo-foo juice.
AVBLEND is the only reliable type of foo-foo juice I have found. Much too expensive BUT way, way cheaper than having to ream the guides. I use it every other oil change. ymmv:D
There is no reliable evidence based on controlled studies to suggest that any aftermarket oil additive will do anything to prevent valve sticking. None.

Point 1: I've always believed that Shell, Phillips, and the rest have a vested financial interest in producing and selling the best possible oil for your aircraft engine. Just ask Mobil what happens when you screw that up. Further, they do not have any vested financial interest (to my knowledge) in any engine overhaul shops or engine parts manufacturers. Therefore, I figure that if any of these additives were really useful, the big refiners would buy up the rights, put it in their own oil, and either charge more for the better oil or grab more market share at the same price once we aviators found out how much better it is. And I doubt that any of the additive inventors would find the serious offer of a major oil company for such a product too small to accept.

Point 2: I heard about a test run a while back on some car engines. An oil additive outfit was running ads showing how they added their magic stuff to engine oil, ran the engine a while, and then drained the oil and ran the engine for like 20 minutes before it seized. "See," they said, "after using our stuff your engine can run for 20 minutes after the oil is lost!" Some consumer advocate outfit duplicated the test, but this time with a control -- an identical engine with the same oil but without the additive. Guess what -- the control engine also ran for 20 minutes and failed the same way.

Point 3: If your engine is still in warranty, you should be aware that Lycoming says that the use of any oil additive (other than LW-16702, an anti-scuffing, anti-wear additive -- see Lycoming SB's 446 and 471, and SI 1409, which you can them faxed to you free by calling Lycoming at 1-800-258-3279 or 570-323-6181, for details on which engines this is allowed/not allowed/required in) is unnecessary and against their recommendations – which could void your warranty.

There is one exception to this general advice, and that’s CamGuard. CamGuard’s history lies in the development of Exxon Elite back in the 90’s. They wanted superior corrosion protection during periods of disuse, and put in a package of additives not included in previous oils like Phillips X/C 20W50 and Aeroshell 15W50. One of the folks who developed that package later left Exxon and continued work on an aftermarket additive product which would give other oils similar capability. This product is CamGuard. Tests by Aviation Consumer showed that Exxon Elite was measurably superior to the other oils in corrosion protection, but adding CamGuard to those other oils produced similar results to Elite. Adding CamGuard to Elite showed little improvement over Elite alone. My suggestion is that if your engine goes more than a week between flights, you either use Exxon Elite or add CamGuard to whatever else you’re using.

So before you go dumping anything other than aviation oil per the engine manufacturer’s recommendations into your oil system, consider all three points and some additional words noted below.

Also, if you read Savvy Aviator Mike Busch’s column “Slippery Stuff” in the February 2011 EAA Sport Aviation (http://www.sportaviationonline.org/sportaviation/201102#pg92), you’ll see he says much the same as I’ve said above – don’t bother with anything but CamGuard, but CamGuard does appear to help.

And from engine guru Howard Fenton...

“Several years ago I finished a two-year blind study on [an oil additive].

“Using all kinds of aircraft engines from radials to flats where I had an oil analysis history prior to the owner starting to use the product and continuing on for two years as the owner continued to use the product. We measured the wear metal results over the study period and summarized them by specific engine group. Not 100% scientific but this was an independent study that I personally funded. I had no bone to pick with anybody one way or the other and the people who owned the product at that time were helpful but made no demands. I called it like I saw it.

“The net result was that the product does not hurt the engine and in a few cases (from testimonials) it seemed to help with valve sticking problems in some small Continentals and a few Lycomings. Our Tiger seemed to have a lazy valve on cold start which seemed to go away when I added the product. But, I no longer use the product and the condition has not returned.

“Now a personal opinion, if you want to spend $25.00 just do a short interval oil change and I believe you will get as much if not more for your dollars. I am also very skeptical of any snake oil that advertises using the phrase: ‘Try our unique “Engine Overhaul In A Can” 100% risk free!’

“To quote a famous aircraft engine man,(me) ‘There Ain't No Mechanic In A Can.’

“It won't surprise me to soon see its companion automotive product advertised with reference to the "FAA-approved" aviation additive. Testimonials don't turn me on and I have found that sponsors often get favorable comments. In fact, I have never known of a sponsored race car driver bad mouthing his sponsors products via the media.”

Regards,
Howard Fenton
Engine Oil Analysis
TUL

And from former oil company chemist Larry Tatsch

“Having worked in the Technical Service Department of a major oil company for 20 years, I know that every oil additive on the market is tested under controlled conditions in comparison with a company's standard lube products. Every additive tested by my company proved to be no better (but in some cases, worse) than the standard oil. Consumer Reports has also done similar testing over the decades with similar results.

“Lube oils are complicated blends of several base oils selected for viscosity and other properties, and packages of additives that include extreme pressure (EP) additives, neutralizing additives, detergents, etc. Additive packages can include as many as 10 components. There are very few secrets in blending oils, and most newer oils depend on changes to the base oils, such as synthetics, or incremental improvements in additive packages. Oil companies typically "reverse engineer" their competitors' oils to determine their additive packages - its a very competitive business.

“So much for fact. Now let’s do a little reasoning:

“Do we really believe that an oil additive exists out there that is so different that all the major oil companies have somehow overlooked it? This additive must be fully compatible with every oil made and must have no adverse effects. When added to the best oil available, it must provide advantages so significant that they are obvious in test engines. And despite its amazing performance, ExxonMobil failed to use it in its newest aviation oil!

“Does this seem reasonable? Not to me, with my knowledge of oil blending. When we see the photos of test engines, we should ask exactly what the additive was tested against. Was it the poorest quality straight mineral oil, or Aeroshell 15W-50?? And we all should realize that from Wheaties to Marlboro to oil additives, celebrity endorsements mean nothing. And finally, FAA approval merely means that the additive does no harm - not that it actually improves an already high quality oil.

“After reading Tom's summary of MMO use in oil, I have to add my comments to Ron Levy's. Besides all his sensible discussion about the actual value of this stuff, adding one quart of MMO to 5 or 6 quarts of oil HAS THE POTENTIAL OF DOING REAL HARM TO YOUR ENGINE.

“The reason: MMO has a very much lower viscosity than aviation oil. It will dilute the oil and dramatically change the viscosity of that 40 weight or 15W50, or whatever, to a much lower, but unpredictable, viscosity. Its the same as pouring one quart of kerosene in your engine.

“Our engines were built with clearances to accommodate specified oil viscosities. When you suddenly lower that viscosity, you run the risk of scuffing bearings and cams, which can lead to engine failure. It may be OK in many engines under various conditions, but at some point, a combination of temp and low viscosity will cause damage.

“So, is it really worth it to experiment with your engine using a product that has NO objective proof of performance???”
 
The valve has to be out of to guide to ream it properly.... I cannot envision how you can do that without pulling the cylinders..:confused:..:confused:..:dunno:
I've watched it done. You start with the "rope trick" to disconnect the valve and then allow it to drop into the cylinder. This allows you to inspect the valve guide inner diameter, including measuring wear with an inside micrometer, or reaming it if there is coking (although odds are that if there's coking, the guide is excessively worn and needs replacing). When you're done, you use probes through the upper and lower spark plug holes to retrieve the valve and reinsert it into the guide. I've watched Bill and Carol Scott of Precision Engines do this on my plane. It takes some skill and dexterity (and with those two, a lot of cursing :D), but it can be done without pulling the cylinder, and it produces more accurate valve guide wear data than you get from the much simpler wobble check method.
 
Not sure where you got that number. Lycoming says 400 hour interval in airplanes (300 in helos) for the old valve guides they stopped making in the late-90's, and 1000 hours or half TBO (whichever comes first) for the newer high-chrome valve guides. See SB 388C and SI 1485A for details, including how to tell which ones are in your cylinders. Aircraft Spruce sells the device for performing this test for about $200, and it takes about an hour per cylinder to do the check.

In any event, reaming the valve guides is not one of the things you can do yourself as "preventive maintenance".

My mistake. I was thinking of an article I read by Paul New where he pointed out that most valve troubles start between 700 and 1000 hours of operation.

Mea culpa.
 
The valve has to be out of to guide to ream it properly.... I cannot envision how you can do that without pulling the cylinders..:confused:..:confused:..:dunno:

With dental floss. It's not too difficult.
 
FWIW, if you can get your hands on a dental cam you can file to fit in the plug hole, you can watch (carefully!) the action of the valves as they seat. If there's no lateral action in the movement, your guides are probably in good shape with regard to what the wobble test would tell you.

I know you've seen videos of this where the valve is sliding sideways as it seats and that's real but I'm telling you that what you are seeing there is something that is far, far, far beyond the limits of the Lycoming SB. As much as we'd love to believe so you can't bypass the procedures described in the service bulletin using a fulcrum point and dial indicator by looking at the valve with a twenty dollar Chinese dental camera. I'm sorry but I don't care how "careful" you are or how good your eyes might be. This is why we have precision instruments - you can't see this stuff.

Granted, if you do see movement like that with your dental cam you definitely gotta pull that jug but just because you don't doesn't mean it's good.
 
Granted, if you do see movement like that with your dental cam you definitely gotta pull that jug but just because you don't doesn't mean it's good.

Exactly, any of these 'gross error tests' can be used as a positive indicator for failure, but none of them can be used as negative indicator of being within tolerance.
 
With dental floss. It's not too difficult.

Count me out...... Dumping stuff into a cylinder and then goiing "fishing" for it is asking for trouble...IMHO

I fix stuff the right way..... Dropping a valve into a cylinder that can kill you if other damage is done is beyond my risk level.......

And that is coming from a total idiot that built and flys a OVERPOWERED experimental....:redface:....:rofl:
 
Count me out...... Dumping stuff into a cylinder and then goiing "fishing" for it is asking for trouble...IMHO

I fix stuff the right way..... Dropping a valve into a cylinder that can kill you if other damage is done is beyond my risk level.......

And that is coming from a total idiot that built and flys a OVERPOWERED experimental....:redface:....:rofl:

Actually it's doable Ben, besides, you have nothing to lose for trying. If you fail the remedy is to pull the cylinder which you propose to start with. Also with the dual plug holes you can do a rescue even if the floss breaks or gets cut by the ream.

What you do is pull the keepers and take some good waxed dental floss and tie it into the keeper land with noose knot. (Take a good 24" of floss, with the last 3" cross down the stem top and pass the land 1/4" and loop back up towards the top so the two lines are next to each other. Hold the two with your thumbnail into the top corner of the land and start wrapping the tail of the floss around the keeper land working back toward the valve trapping the loop underneath as you wrap towards the bight. With at least 5 wraps, more if able, I like to fill the land, but with at least 3/4" tail left, pass the tail through the bight eye and hold tension outward to hold tension on the wraps. Now, take the long end and pull it the other direction which will pull the bight under the wraps along with the tail locking it all together in a strong anchor that is below the profile of the valve stem. There is only one thickness of floss next to the stem, it will squeeze down thin enough in the clearance and yet be strong enough to pull the valve back through)

With that you can push the valve out of the guide, clean and service the guide as required; take a coat hanger through a plug hole and fish for the floss to pop the valve stem through and clean it. When you're done you pull the valve stem up to the guide using the floss and the coat hanger through the plug hole to help line it up.

If it works out, you save about 3 hrs, if it doesn't work out, you lost about 2 minutes tying a knot and a piece of floss.
 
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Count me out...... Dumping stuff into a cylinder and then goiing "fishing" for it is asking for trouble...IMHO

I fix stuff the right way..... Dropping a valve into a cylinder that can kill you if other damage is done is beyond my risk level.......
I'm trying to imagine what "other damage" which could kill you is possible by dropping a valve into a cylinder while the engine isn't running and then retrieving and reinserting the valve before operation. It's a pretty common practice.
 
I'm trying to imagine what "other damage" which could kill you is possible by dropping a valve into a cylinder while the engine isn't running and then retrieving and reinserting the valve before operation. It's a pretty common practice.
:yeahthat:

It's dropping a few inches...not a dozen feet...
 
Just a comment on the title of this thread: preventative maintenance implies an owner/operator may accomplish this without the supervision of an A&P. Reaming valve guides is not something that may be done by Joe bag-a-donuts unless he possesses at least a "P" of the A&P certificate or is under the supervision of someone who does. Of course I'm writing of the legality of performing this maintenance task, what one does behind closed hangar doors is up to the conscience of the individual.
 
Just a comment on the title of this thread: preventative maintenance implies an owner/operator may accomplish this without the supervision of an A&P. Reaming valve guides is not something that may be done by Joe bag-a-donuts unless he possesses at least a "P" of the A&P certificate or is under the supervision of someone who does. Of course I'm writing of the legality of performing this maintenance task, what one does behind closed hangar doors is up to the conscience of the individual.

Wrong.

Anyone can work on experimental aircraft. Period. With the hangar door open or closed. ;)

No donuts needed, but greatly appreciated! :D
 
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Count me out...... Dumping stuff into a cylinder and then goiing "fishing" for it is asking for trouble...IMHO

I fix stuff the right way..... Dropping a valve into a cylinder that can kill you if other damage is done is beyond my risk level.......

And that is coming from a total idiot that built and flys a OVERPOWERED experimental....:redface:....:rofl:

If you are concerned about the drop put some rope into the cylinder to cushion the fall? It's routinely done with out rope. ;)
 
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Wrong.

Anyone can work on experimental aircraft. Period. With the hangar door open or closed.

No donuts needed, but appreciated! :D

Yeah, I waited for your response when Ron made that same assertion earlier in the thread...you must've missed that one! :wink2:

Folks didn't pay attention to who was the OP.
 
In any event, reaming the valve guides is not one of the things you can do yourself as "preventive maintenance".

Unless, of course, the plane is experimental. :D

Thanks for the tip Mr. Winters! :lol:
 
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Continental and Lycoming don't have written methods for removing the oil filler cap and adding oil. Their written materials don't cover all eventualities.

This is a fairly standard method, not sure why you're losing your mind over it.


:no::no:......:D
 
DUH........

But,,,, it can hit the surface of the cylinder wall and possibly cause a nick...

The friggin moon could possibly be made of cheese and then all the dairy farmers in Wisconsin would go broke.....

if's and possibly's friggin kill me...
 
Conversation over for me........

you can check out any time you like but you can never leave...

just consider the pressure necessary to gouge or chip a sleeve, then consider the weight of a valve, now how high does the valve have to be dropped to develop sufficient force to create chip or gouge?
 
FUN THREAD

disclaimer: I said that was the only foo-foo juice I could recommend - and then I get paragraphs of lecturing on the evils of 'everything' .:D.
If you are having the symptoms of morning sickness, throw a can in and try it. If it helps you are money ahead.
I do agree that MMO is a problem looking for a solution.

Incidentally long ago in a galaxy far etc. etc. etc. I was the supervising engineer for an engine test lab where we had a half dozen engine/transmission dyno sets running a simulated city-country-mountain 1500 mile test loop pulling a 6000 pound trailer, running against water cooled prony brakes 24/7 (actually de prony, but only gear heads know that)
Every once in a while 4 or 5 of them would hit the bottom of the Pikes Peak Climb at roughly the same time. The sound of those old girls all winding up and singing out full throttle (detonating, rods rattling, clutches screaming) roaring exhaust through the roof top exhaust pipes (could be heard for 3 miles) always gave me goose bumps. We would put 15,000 miles on the engine/tranny in 14 to 17 days (depending on the exact loop being run, more city stop and go took more time).
The trannys usually did good. Most engines did not make more than 4 to 5 weeks before failing - either catastrophically (bent rods was a biggie) or just plain worn out, smoking, and needing an overhaul. The Olds Rocket 88 was the best of the GM engines in that era.
Lenkite was tried on two of the dyno lines and results after a year showed increased bearing and ring life that was statistically significant (students t-test) on those two lines compared to the other four. A version of Lenkite today is called AVBLEND.
It did not (nor was it expected to) change the rate of burnt valves, bent rods, broken cranks. etc.

For those amazed or nervous at 'dropping the valves' out of the head into the cylinder - been done from the very earliest days of airplane engines. It is not even difficult. Just needs a bit of show and tell from someone who knows how. My dad had me helping him do them when I was 12, or so.
And a plain A&P (my age showing) can do it and return the engine to service and the FSDO will not even blink - for those concerned about rules..
 
Summary:

Started up my Tiger in Hartford, CT. Seemed rough on taxi, smoothed out for the runup. Assumed it was because it wasn't used to cold temps (FL plane).

6,000' over Long Island Sound engine got very rough and started backfiring. Declared an emergency and headed to Gabreski Airport on Long Island.

On landing, oil all over nosewheel. Here's why:

14901465490_286650a525_o.jpg


With a frozen valve something has to give - in this case the pushrod.

Relevance? A mechanic pushed the valve into the cylinder, reamed the guide and fished it back out. Got the job done.
 
Summary:

Started up my Tiger in Hartford, CT. Seemed rough on taxi, smoothed out for the runup. Assumed it was because it wasn't used to cold temps (FL plane).

6,000' over Long Island Sound engine got very rough and started backfiring. Declared an emergency and headed to Gabreski Airport on Long Island.

On landing, oil all over nosewheel. Here's why:

14901465490_286650a525_o.jpg


With a frozen valve something has to give - in this case the pushrod.

Relevance? A mechanic pushed the valve into the cylinder, reamed the guide and fished it back out. Got the job done.


Hence the name and reason for the thread. :dunno:


:D
 
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