Priming bare aluminum, zinc chromate or ???

Capt.Crash'n'Burn

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Capt.Crash'n'Burn
Does anyone here have experience priming bare aluminum? Can it be done in your garage/ backyard without environmental/health concerns? or does this need to be done in a shop with a spray booth?

I'm doing this to some race car pannels, but I'm sure the procedure would be the same for aircraft parts.
 
Does anyone here have experience priming bare aluminum? Can it be done in your garage/ backyard without environmental/health concerns? or does this need to be done in a shop with a spray booth?

I'm doing this to some race car pannels, but I'm sure the procedure would be the same for aircraft parts.

Yes, it can be done in your garage. Since it is primer, I just shoot it outside.

If you're looking for something easy to squirt that offers good (not maximum) corrosion protection and "OK' paint adhesion, try zinc chromate in a spray can.

If you're more interested in good paint adhesion, try one of the self-etching primers for Aluminum. Sherwin Williams has one, SEM has one, and I think these two are repackaged for others as well. Both can be had in rattle cans.

For a little more work and a bit better performance (corrosion protection, paint adhesion, etc. both PPG and Dupont make two part self etching primers that you mix and shoot through a spray gun. I don't remember the PPG product, but Dupont's is Variprime.

If you really, really want adhesion, corrosion protection, chemical resistance, etc. and are not afraid to pay for it, Randolph's Rand-o-Plate is one of seveeral good epoxy primers.

So back to you.. Where do you want to be on the convenience vs cost vs performance curve? That'll help decide the product you use.

By the way, of all of these, the epoxy products and zinc chromate are the ones that don't need to be top coated. The others should be.
 
it can but you will need to etch primer instead of reg primer. Ive had good results shooting with a gun and spray can.
 
Does anyone here have experience priming bare aluminum? Can it be done in your garage/ backyard without environmental/health concerns? or does this need to be done in a shop with a spray booth?

I'm currently building an RV-10, and priming with Sherwin Williams P60G2. It is pretty easy to work with, once you have a spray gun and place to spray set up (I have set up a booth which has as one wall my open garage door, so I have plenty of ventilation). You'll have to go to a Sherwin Williams industrial store to get this one, it is not carried in either their residential or automotive paint stores.

Things to note: (a) P60G2, and many other primers, are now considered "non-compliant" in California. They have too many VOCs to be sold under the new environmental law which went into effect January 1 of this year. So if you want to buy some, you have to either buy it soon (since stores are allowed to sell through their stock, but not import more), or go do your painting in a neighbouring state with laxer regulations. The shelf life of a can of this paint is officially 2 years according to the paint store.

(b) the chemicals in this primer (and all metal primers) are NASTY. Everything I've read advises that you cover all exposed skin, wear gloves, use a respirator (better is full-face, even better is one with a remote air feed), and have plenty of ventilation.

Personally, I wear a disposable painting suit with hood, gloves, full-face respirator (with carbon filters, purchased from the paint store), and paint pretty much outdoors. Like this.

As far as the environmental concerns -- my understanding is that the paint in CA exists, and the most environmentally friendly thing you can do with it is use it (instead of having it go to waste rotting on store shelves). Any leftovers you should donate to someone else who can make use of it. Disposing of it probably involves talking to a hazardous waste company...

Chris
 
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Another vote for self-etching primer. For small jobs rattle cans work great just don't get in a hurry and get the runs :ihih:
 
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