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Good luck finding that. Have you seen Chalkie Stobbart's article (PDF) about rebuilding a Warner 165? He drops some names in there that might be good resources to help find the timing disk, other 165 aficionados. One of the guys is here in Texas...
 
TangoWhiskey said:
Good luck finding that. Have you seen Chalkie Stobbart's article (PDF) about rebuilding a Warner 165? He drops some names in there that might be good resources to help find the timing disk, other 165 aficionados. One of the guys is here in Texas...
Click to expand...

There are many mistakes in that article I don't know where to start.

I did all the machining on my Master Rod, the knuckle pins were the easiest, I simply used new 180 horse pins lightened by honing the bore to match the 165 pin's weight they are exactly the same size as the 165 pins, Their bushings can be bought new from Harlon Dickerson, and honed to fit your master rod flanges. No problems.

I also manufactured a new oil feed bushing for the crank, and replaced both bushings for the mag drive gears, and reline bored the cases and replaced both main bearings, and installed a front crank shaft seal, two new mags from Savage mag in Ca.

all the cylinders have new guides and valves, and honed .010 over with new pistons and rings, and new paint.

The oil pump has been rebuilt with new gears and is ready to go.

Now it is mostly back together but I need to time the cam and need the disk that is required to that, a Time Rite will not work. The disk shows where the valves are to open and close as the crank is turned..

Pictures are on FB
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2056294881414.2109345.1065865158
 
TangoWhiskey said:
Have you tried writing to the current type certificate holder for your engine, in Lexington Kentucky?

http://gobinkley.com/hostedpictures/TCDSE214.pdf

With any luck, he's got the tooling and some parts.
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The Type certificate holder has no parts or tools, the biggest suppler is Harlin
Dickerson in Columbia Mo. and the best overhauller is Allan Holloway in Quincy Ca.

and me. :)

All I need is a timing Disk, and they are rare as chicken lips
 
Checking in... curious if you found one, Tom. And if you can't find one, what happens? Can't finish your overhaul??!
 
Tom-D said:
The Type certificate holder has no parts or tools, the biggest suppler is Harlin
Dickerson in Columbia Mo. and the best overhauller is Allan Holloway in Quincy Ca.

and me. :)

All I need is a timing Disk, and they are rare as chicken lips
Click to expand...

There's a guy in Oklahoma outside OKC, Norman? out on a farm anyway. I forget his name, does mostly Jakes and Continental round engines. When I was at his shop it looked like he was a tool collector so he may have one.
 
Henning said:
There's a guy in Oklahoma outside OKC, Norman? out on a farm anyway. I forget his name, does mostly Jakes and Continental round engines. When I was at his shop it looked like he was a tool collector so he may have one.
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Those are the Curry Brothers, "Radial engines inc." Guthry OK. they have the tools but will not sell.
 
TangoWhiskey said:
I was kind of hopeful this patent search for "warner aircraft" might turn up a diagram from which you could construct your own...
Click to expand...

Unfortunately it was part of a tool set, sold to the repair facilities authorized to overhaul the Warners.

there are a few out there, but those who have them want the work that they are used for. or they are setting in Grandpa's old tool box that the G/kids have no idea what they are.
 
Tom-D said:
Those are the Curry Brothers, "Radial engines inc." Guthry OK. they have the tools but will not sell.
Click to expand...

That's him... Will he rent it to you? I used to just make my own degree wheel on anything round and at crank speed. I'd wrap it in masking tape and using a taylor's tape marked in mm I'd start at TDC and measure out my degrees. It's a PITA some, but making the measurements will always get the job done.
 
Henning said:
That's him... Will he rent it to you? I used to just make my own degree wheel on anything round and at crank speed. I'd wrap it in masking tape and using a taylor's tape marked in mm I'd start at TDC and measure out my degrees. It's a PITA some, but making the measurements will always get the job done.
Click to expand...

Remember many shops are starving, they want work, and they have the tools.

I am building the disk, and this should get me going

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190562931808?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

The routine for setting the cam involves a series of valve clearance settings, and rotating the engine XX degrees and then backing it up to TDC and advancing the crank until the intake valve opens at a given degree, that is given on the face of the disk.
 
Tom-D said:
Remember many shops are starving, they want work, and they have the tools.

I am building the disk, and this should get me going

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190562931808?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

The routine for setting the cam involves a series of valve clearance settings, and rotating the engine XX degrees and then backing it up to TDC and advancing the crank until the intake valve opens at a given degree, that is given on the face of the disk.
Click to expand...

Like I said, a pen and tape is what I used in a hell of a lot of situations. It's a lot easier to carry a taylor's tape than a degree wheel.
 
Henning said:
Like I said, a pen and tape is what I used in a hell of a lot of situations. It's a lot easier to carry a taylor's tape than a degree wheel.
Click to expand...

Carry? I do not have to carry this any where it is all done in my hangar. Its a 1 time shot IF I can get it done, I made the adapter to day to attach the degree indicator to the crank shaft. IT will alow the digital bevel gauge to be attached to the end of the crank and show rotation in degrees

attach gauge, find TDC, zero gauge, and start the process, rotate crank to XX degrees, rotate the cam to open the #1 intake valve and install the cam gearing train, rotate the crank 2 turns and see when the intake opens as a check.
 
The alternate method works
 

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Tom-D said:
Carry? I do not have to carry this any where it is all done in my hangar. Its a 1 time shot IF I can get it done, I made the adapter to day to attach the degree indicator to the crank shaft. IT will alow the digital bevel gauge to be attached to the end of the crank and show rotation in degrees

attach gauge, find TDC, zero gauge, and start the process, rotate crank to XX degrees, rotate the cam to open the #1 intake valve and install the cam gearing train, rotate the crank 2 turns and see when the intake opens as a check.
Click to expand...


Like I said, Masking tape around the round flange, measure the diameter in MM, divide by 360. Find TDC, make mark with pen. Measure distance around circumference that corresponds with how many degrees you need. Now rotate to line that you made with your pointer and set your cam. That's what the tailors tape is for is to accurately measure off the circumferance and make your own degree wheel.
 
This is going to work,

I built a disk, and a adapter for the angle cube from E-Bay, and placed the disk on the crank, and the pointer on the front of the case, then added the angle cube in the front of the crank.

found the true TDC by the piston finder method, marked that position on the disk, and set the angle cube at 0.00, now I know exactly where the crank is at all times.

Next step is to turn the cam to the position where both valves on #1 are closed ad the exhaust valve on #7 and the intake valve on #2 are at their mid way position.
Then set the valve clearance on #1 to .027, after that I rotate the crank backwards 90 degrees and bring it up to 10 degrees BTDC,
Then advance the cam ring to start opening the #1 intake valve and install the cam drive gear, we be done with cam timing and then the accessory drive section can be assembled and mag timing can be completed.
 

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Tom-D said:
This is going to work,

I built a disk, and a adapter for the angle cube from E-Bay, and placed the disk on the crank, and the pointer on the front of the case, then added the angle cube in the front of the crank.

found the true TDC by the piston finder method, marked that position on the disk, and set the angle cube at 0.00, now I know exactly where the crank is at all times.

Next step is to turn the cam to the position where both valves on #1 are closed ad the exhaust valve on #7 and the intake valve on #2 are at their mid way position.
Then set the valve clearance on #1 to .027, after that I rotate the crank backwards 90 degrees and bring it up to 10 degrees BTDC,
Then advance the cam ring to start opening the #1 intake valve and install the cam drive gear, we be done with cam timing and then the accessory drive section can be assembled and mag timing can be completed.
Click to expand...

There you go, told you you didn't need the tool of Unobtanium just to time your engine. I love the angle cube, it rocks. Way easier than measuring and marking the disc.
 
Henning said:
There you go, told you you didn't need the tool of Unobtanium just to time your engine. I love the angle cube, it rocks. Way easier than measuring and marking the disc.
Click to expand...

The disk is for keeping dummy on the right side of TDC, and making sure I am rotating the crank in the correct direction.
 
Tom-D said:
The disk is for keeping dummy on the right side of TDC, and making sure I am rotating the crank in the correct direction.
Click to expand...
Trust me, I knew what it was for:rofl::rofl::rofl:. I have made some bonehead errors timing engines, that's why I'm so quick to catch them when I see them again.:D
 
Cam/Valve timing is complete and the rear case is on..
 

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