Leaky rubber hose Lycoming 540 Cessna T182T

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JasonM

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How common is this? Almost every hose is leaking or seeping oil. This is on a Cessna T182T. It is leaking enough oil that all around the bottom engine seal (pan?) looks like it is leaking.
 
Re: Leaky rubber hose Lycoming 540 cessna 182

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I'd say it is pretty common. The hoses are cheap, just replace them.
 
Is that something I am allowed to do or do I need an A&P? Replace the hoses that is..
 
Those are safety hoses. If they're not leaking, you're out of fluid.


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Sorry Jason I was pulling your chain.

Old joke, if something on a (jeep, ford, chevy) ain't leaking, it's empty.

Snug the hose clamps down a little by hand, and fly on. Or just fly it. A little bit of weeping like that is fine. If the hose is cracked, or leaking so bad it is dripping, then it needs to be replaced.


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dell30rb said:
Sorry Jason I was pulling your chain.

Old joke, if something on a (jeep, ford, chevy) ain't leaking, it's empty.

Snug the hose clamps down a little by hand, and fly on. Or just fly it. A little bit of weeping like that is fine. If the hose is cracked, or leaking so bad it is dripping, then it needs to be replaced.


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Definitely didn't catch that one. :redface:

There are a few that are dripping oil as you can see there, but its also making its way onto other stuff in the engine compartment. i'd feel a lot safer not seeing oil all over everything.
 
Cheap to fix at least in terms of aircraft. Just replace them all with your A and P and be happy.
 
Well the answer is to tighten the clamps. If one is really old brittle and cracked, maybe it needs replacing, but it's not often. They are a pain to get to sometimes.

And tell me how that doesn't meet the definition of PM? As an A&P, sure I'll tighten them up, but you're paying shop rate in the neighborhood of $100/hr for something you can do quite simply. I don't mind doing it, but it doesn't make sense to me if you are going to take the wheel off your plane, put a new tire and tube on, but not tighten a clamp. And replacing them seems to fall under FAR 43 App. A (21).
 
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The oil does not need to be drained.

Find the part number in your IPC then call a parts distributor. We usually use AERO for that kind of stuff.
 
Norman said:
It is NOT preventive maintenance.
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:confused: How does this not fit under preventative maintenance? There is no replacing, modifying, or repairing going on, he his just tightening some hose clamps. :dunno:
 
JasonM said:
There we go. I'm all for this.

Any good idea on where to order the hoses?

Would replacing these require me to drain the oil first?
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No oil draining is necessary, you don't even know if replacing is necessary. Tighten the clamps, clean up the engine, and see if the leak stops. Using a socket driver as above allows a much better ability to get proper tightness on them. If the rubber still feels firm, it should be ok. It gets squishy and gooey, or hard and brittle when the hose needs replacing.
 
Norman said:
It is NOT preventive maintenance.
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As pointed out by: bgdriveway

FAR 43 App. A (21)

(c) Preventive maintenance. Preventive maintenance is limited to the following work, provided it does not involve complex assembly operations:

(21) Replacing any hose connection except hydraulic connections.


Question is: is a hose connection the same as a hose?

.
.
 
Henning said:
No oil draining is necessary, you don't even know if replacing is necessary. Tighten the clamps, clean up the engine, and see if the leak stops. Using a socket driver as above allows a much better ability to get proper tightness on them. If the rubber still feels firm, it should be ok. It gets squishy and gooey, or hard and brittle when the hose needs replacing.
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Thanks for the tips.
 
Henning said:
No oil draining is necessary, you don't even know if replacing is necessary. Tighten the clamps, clean up the engine, and see if the leak stops. Using a socket driver as above allows a much better ability to get proper tightness on them. If the rubber still feels firm, it should be ok. It gets squishy and gooey, or hard and brittle when the hose needs replacing.
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Yes. Do this first. You'd rather not replace these if you don't have to.
 
JasonM said:
Seems like a poor design if it happens so often. Am I missing something?
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Yes, the design is the same they came up with during WWII lol. The thing is, to do it a different, better way requires fittings of considerable expense. Since there is no pressure on these hoses, there is no good reason to use Aeroquip or swaged fitting hoses to flared fittings and the expense associated there with. This design is from back in the day when people actually worked on their engines and knew that things needed occasional tightening and adjusting.
 
About half the hoses on my 2004 T182T have been changed out to the brown teflon hoses.
 
mondtster said:
Yes...

I agree with the other guys, try snugging up the clamps first. Many of them get over tightened trying to stop leaks though, you can squish the rubber out pretty easily even with new hoses.
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:thumbsup: Thanks :thumbsup:
 
Henning said:
Yes, the design is the same they came up with during WWII lol. The thing is, to do it a different, better way requires fittings of considerable expense. Since there is no pressure on these hoses, there is no good reason to use Aeroquip or swaged fitting hoses to flared fittings and the expense associated there with. This design is from back in the day when people actually worked on their engines and knew that things needed occasional tightening and adjusting.
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but. but. but.. this motor a'int no WWII salvage $#*T. Sheesh. C'mon Cessna!!
 
JasonM said:
Remember where you ordered those?
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No, I don't. I just acquired this bird last month and my pre-buy mechanic pointed the brown teflon hoses out to me as being a good thing to have.
 
I don't like those clamps. They will slice in to the rubber when torqued down thereby releasing the tension you're trying to impose on the hose and pipe connection. They also strip very easily. As a matter of fact the clamp towards the top of your picture looks rather suspicious. There are better clamps often sold as fuel injection hose clamps. They have an inner sleeve that wraps around the hose as you tighten it, protecting the integrity of the hose. I recently replaced all my hoses and clamps for that reason. The clamps next to the case were really fun... NOT!:no:
 
comanche pilot said:
I don't like those clamps. They will slice in to the rubber when torqued down thereby releasing the tension you're trying to impose on the hose and pipe connection. They also strip very easily. As a matter of fact the clamp towards the top of your picture looks rather suspicious. There are better clamps often sold as fuel injection hose clamps. They have an inner sleeve that wraps around the hose as you tighten it, protecting the integrity of the hose. I recently replaced all my hoses and clamps for that reason. The clamps next to the case were really fun... NOT!:no:
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The easiest way to replace the clamps is to loosen the nut holding the aluminum drain tube to the cylinder, loosen the inboard clamp on the assembly, and pull the whole thing off. At that point, it is easy to remove the hose from the aluminum drain tube, attach a new one, affix the clamp holding the hose to the tube, and loosely attach the inboard clamp. Then you slide the assembly back into place and tighten the B-nut and the inboard clamp.

It is easiest if you remove the front tubes first, then proceed aft in sequence. Reinstall the aft set first and move forward. You get better access to the clamps that way.

Not sure where this falls on the owner PM vs licensed mechanic scale.
 
If you do replace the hoses, be sure to tighten them down again after 50 hours or so. They work themselves loose.

The ones you have now might only need to be tightened, but quite possibly be too old to mess with.
 
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