Idiot Craigslist Sellers

RJM62

Touchdown! Greaser!
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Geek on the Hill
I'm passively looking for a newer used car. I think it's getting time to demote my present ride to winter-rat status.

I've bought a lot of cars from Craigslist sellers, but not in the past few years. I am stunned at much the quality and usefulness of seller listings have declined in the past few years. My specific gripes include:

1. Sellers who omit crucial information about the car, such as the year or mileage. They'll wax eloquent about the stereo system, but don't tell you the year or the mileage.

2. Sellers whose asking prices are absurd. Yeah, I know there's some bickering that can be done, but be realistic.

3. And by the way, I really don't give a rat's about the Kelly Blue Book value. Screw Kelly. When Kelly's buying the car, Kelly can decide what it's worth.

4. Sellers who don't mention where the car is located. The distance and difficulty of getting somewhere affect whether I'm going to bother looking at the car.

5. Sellers who only want to contacted by phone. I don't want to spend hours on the phone asking strangers detailed questions about cars. That's what email is for. But a lot of sellers disable the email reply, and others specify, "Don't even bother emailing me because I never check my email." Well, screw you, then. Obviously you don't want to sell your car that badly.

6. Sellers who insist on being contacted only by text message. Double screw you. I hate texting to begin with, and I'm certainly not going to sit here asking you a dozen or so questions by text and trying to figure out your indecipherable shorthand responses.

Besides, why do you want perfect strangers to have your cell phone number, anyway? I sure as hell don't. You (or I) could be a spammer or scam artist.

7. Sellers who have no plates or insurance on the vehicles (presumably because they transferred them to their new cars), but don't understand that the inability to test drive the car means that they're going to get lower offers. "But Kelly says..." (See No. 3 above.)

8. Sellers who don't post sufficient and useful pictures, especially if they offer to text the pictures to buyers. Just post the damned pictures on the listing so I can look at them on a real screen! Is that so freaking hard to do?

9. Sellers who post pictures of the car all covered in dirt and bird ****, and then say, "It looks good once you clean it up." Wash the $%^@@ car first and then take the pictures, you $%^@@ moron!

10. This last one is more of a head-scratching thing for me than an annoyance, but I'm seeing it a lot lately: describing a car as "female-owned" or "female-driven." Why on earth would I care about the gender of the previous owner? Of what possible importance is that to me?

It's gotten to the point that I've just started meandering through my day-to-day life carrying several grand in cash in my pocket, and stopping to look at cars with "For Sale" signs in their windows. Craigslist sellers have just become too annoying to bother with.

-Rich
 
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Where's the Harrumph smiley when we really need it?:p
 
It's their car they're selling. They're not Walmart with a board of directors, reputation and share holders to keep happy. I chuckle at people and hang up on them when I sell stuff on craigslist and they expect the Walmart treatment.... No thanks, it's on cl because I'm tired of looking at it, not because revenue is down.
 
I'm passively looking for a newer used car. I think it's getting time to demote my present ride to winter-rat status.


10. This last one is more of a head-scratching thing for me than an annoyance, but I'm seeing it a lot lately: describing a car as "female-owned" or "female-driven." Why on earth would I care about the gender of the previous owner? Of what possible importance is that to me?
I generally only buy used cars that were owned by females or Seniors because they are less likely to be "shade tree" mechanics. DIYers can do more harm than good to an automobile if they don't know what they're doing. Most females I know have their cars maintained professionally, making them more appealing to me on the secondary market.
 
I generally only buy used cars that were owned by females or Seniors because they are less likely to be "shade tree" mechanics. DIYers can do more harm than good to an automobile if they don't know what they're doing. Most females I know have their cars maintained professionally, making them more appealing to me on the secondary market.

Well... yeah, okay... but I also know have known women who didn't maintain their cars at all. They basically drove them until they stopped running or until an idiot light came on. So it's kind of a generalization. But yeah, on the whole, women are probably less likely to do transmission rebuilds in their driveways.

-Rich
 
Last car I sold, I did something a bit different. It was a 2005 Silverado truck (I was selling in 2009). I went to Fast Signs and had a magnetic FOR SALE sign made describing the price, a few features and my phone number. Put it on the tailgate.

Within 48 hours, a guy right behind me at the stop light rang me, we pulled over to a parking lot, gave him a chance at a closer look, he made an offer, I accepted. Next day we met at the Tax Office (where we Texans do our vehicle registrations and titles) and completed the transaction.


Rich, it's kinda like any sales transaction, sometimes the buyer (or the seller) doesn't know they are ready to do a transaction until a good deal is staring at them.

You might keep your eyes out in the local community for vehicles that interest you, then approach the current owner asking, "If I made the right offer, would you sell this car?" You might find a nice well kept vehicle at a good price an without the hassles your first post rants about.
 
Last car I sold, I did something a bit different. It was a 2005 Silverado truck (I was selling in 2009). I went to Fast Signs and had a magnetic FOR SALE sign made describing the price, a few features and my phone number. Put it on the tailgate.

Within 48 hours, a guy right behind me at the stop light rang me, we pulled over to a parking lot, gave him a chance at a closer look, he made an offer, I accepted. Next day we met at the Tax Office (where we Texans do our vehicle registrations and titles) and completed the transaction.


Rich, it's kinda like any sales transaction, sometimes the buyer (or the seller) doesn't know they are ready to do a transaction until a good deal is staring at them.

You might keep your eyes out in the local community for vehicles that interest you, then approach the current owner asking, "If I made the right offer, would you sell this car?" You might find a nice well kept vehicle at a good price an without the hassles your first post rants about.

I was taking my car to an sell lot and already had the info in a side window. Got stopped in traffic for construction and a guy on a grader hopped off his rig to look it over in traffic and write down the number. We chatted and called me later. SOLD! For the asking price in cash.
 
Well... yeah, okay... but I also know have known women who didn't maintain their cars at all. They basically drove them until they stopped running or until an idiot light came on.

If only it was an or...

"I made it to work OK, but the oil light is on, the car is making a lot of noises, and it won't go over 30 mph. What should I do now?"
 
If only it was an or...

"I made it to work OK, but the oil light is on, the car is making a lot of noises, and it won't go over 30 mph. What should I do now?"

Way back when, a new woman engineer MITgrad started, fantastic grades. She was driving an old Ford Granada, she walks into work one morning: "The oil light was on the whole way in to work, but I think it is ok now because when I turned the car off the light went out." All the guys in the office :rolleyes2:. She put more oil in but the engine blew a few days later.

Lots of book smarts, not much street smarts in that one.
 
To the OP............

You have larger balls then me as I would NEVER buy anything off CL...:no:...

And remember.... Hurricane Sandy left 100's of thousands of cars /trucks totally junk and they are now rearing their ugly heads on all lists...
 
I've bought multiple vehicles off CL. I've found a few that have worked well. The Exploder had a shot driveshaft and rotted out exhaust (reported honestly in the ad), but a good inspection showed it needed a $15 U-joint and a $100 exhaust system. So I paid $2000 for it, made the repairs, and drove it for nearly 300,000 miles. The VW was more or less exactly as described, and I paid full asking price -- $1300. 120,000 miles and counting, now.

The one that gets me is "it will run with a little work -- I have the parts." Yeah, if it was that easy, you would have done it, right?

People just don't understand that ANY non-running or unsmogged vehicle is worth a MAXIMUM of $650 -- and it's only that much because the state will pay that to have it scrapped. I don't care if it's a 1930 Duesenberg, if I can't drive it, the price is $650 if I think it's salvageable. $0 if I don't. Less than $650 if I think it's a PITA. If you have such a gem, make it run and then it will be worth more, possibly a lot more.

I had a guy try to sell me a late-model Corolla once for $3000 that looked like it had been hit with a sledgehammer and had a balljoint so bad that I wouldn't drive it out of the parking lot.
 
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If only it was an or...

"I made it to work OK, but the oil light is on, the car is making a lot of noises, and it won't go over 30 mph. What should I do now?"
In my case, it was "By the way, the car was really running bad on the way home from work today...barely made it here."

Said comment made right after we went to bed for the night....

Got up, got dressed, and went to look at it. One spark plug (4 cylinder engine) had unscrewed entirely and was dangling at the end of the ignition lead, loose in the engine compartment.

Ron Wanttaja
 
In my case, it was "By the way, the car was really running bad on the way home from work today...barely made it here."

Said comment made right after we went to bed for the night....

Got up, got dressed, and went to look at it. One spark plug (4 cylinder engine) had unscrewed entirely and was dangling at the end of the ignition lead, loose in the engine compartment.

Ron Wanttaja

:eek:

That car had to be running bad for a while to even make that possible. I smell a saboteur...
 
I generally only buy used cars that were owned by females or Seniors because they are less likely to be "shade tree" mechanics. DIYers can do more harm than good to an automobile if they don't know what they're doing. Most females I know have their cars maintained professionally, making them more appealing to me on the secondary market.

I would be less afraid of the shade tree mechanic, and more afraid of someone who didn't bother to have the car properly maintained. Most males who work on cars have some type of passion or interest in it. In my experience, maintenance (or at least, timely maintenance) tends to be an afterthought to many females.


JKG
 
I would be less afraid of the shade tree mechanic, and more afraid of someone who didn't bother to have the car properly maintained. Most males who work on cars have some type of passion or interest in it. In my experience, maintenance (or at least, timely maintenance) tends to be an afterthought to many females.


JKG

I also check glove box receipts like logbooks. They can tell the real story. I'm not saying shade tree mechanics can't be good and thorough. I'm leery of the guy who changes his own brake pads to save money and somehow, inexplicably, ends up with extra parts left over after he's finished.
 
People just don't understand that ANY non-running or unsmogged vehicle is worth a MAXIMUM of $650 -- and it's only that much because the state will pay that to have it scrapped. I don't care if it's a 1930 Duesenberg, if I can't drive it, the price is $650 if I think it's salvageable. $0 if I don't. Less than $650 if I think it's a PITA. If you have such a gem, make it run and then it will be worth more, possibly a lot more.

Guess you didn't buy that rare Bugatti that was auctioned earlier this year...
 
:eek:

That car had to be running bad for a while to even make that possible. I smell a saboteur...

Not really.

Especially with an aluminum head, a spark plug that's a little loose can strip the threads and pop out pretty fast. And that may only show up as a rough idle. Even a 4banger will run smoother than you might expect at 2500 RPM on three cylinders. Note that once the plug pops out, you can disable the opposite cylinder in the firing order as well. Most of these run waste spark ignition these days (where the opposite plugs are in parallel, and fire on both the power and exhaust strokes).
 
I've had good luck with buying miscellaneous stuff on Craig's List, but I haven't bought anything in the last couple of years.
 
2. Sellers whose asking prices are absurd. Yeah, I know there's some bickering that can be done, but be realistic.
Yeah, I have seen cars advertised for about 10-times their true value. I always assumed it was nothing more than attention grabber or a method to end up on top when you search sorting by price.
 
DFW CL has turned into a total wasteland for cars, not much better for other things.

Yeah, I have seen cars advertised for about 10-times their true value. I always assumed it was nothing more than attention grabber or a method to end up on top when you search sorting by price.
 
I generally only buy used cars that were owned by females or Seniors because they are less likely to be "shade tree" mechanics. DIYers can do more harm than good to an automobile if they don't know what they're doing. Most females I know have their cars maintained professionally, making them more appealing to me on the secondary market.

Oh, that's a good one. :lol:

Females getting their car maintained. I heard it happened once. Back in the spring of 83 I think it was....
 
DFW CL has turned into a total wasteland for cars, not much better for other things.

I just sold a very nice 02 Golf on CL. Had a bunch of calls, a bunch of no shows, two guys showed up and the second one bought it for asking price, which was a fair representation of the value.

OTOH, I've been trying to buy a Porsche off CL for about a month, and the seller is a complete SFB.
 
To the OP............

You have larger balls then me as I would NEVER buy anything off CL...:no:...

And remember.... Hurricane Sandy left 100's of thousands of cars /trucks totally junk and they are now rearing their ugly heads on all lists...

I've bought my last three cars off CL. All were honestly described, and all served their intended missions.

The one I'm demoting now I purchased for $1,850.00 a few years ago. It had various electrical problems and needed an O2 sensor. I had a local mechanic in Queens install a new sensor while he did the inspection (it was an out-of-state car, so it needed to be re-inspected), and I fixed all the electrical issues except for the fuel gauge myself. I think there's an intermittent break in the wire between the sender and the panel, and it just isn't worth the bother to fix.

I've put about 45,000 miles on it since then, and the only major repair has been a new gas tank (they're an issue on old Kias), which a mechanic friend of mine replaced. But it's now overdue for the timing belt replacement (about a $600.00 job if I pay to have it done, or about $150.00 if I do it myself), the exhaust system aft of the CAT looks like it's not long for this world (probably about a $300.00 job), and once in a while it's hard-starting when it's warm.

I haven't been able to really diagnose the last problem because it only happens rarely. The one time it threw a code it was the transmission temp sensor. It could just be a loose or corroded wire somewhere.

Whatever the case, the Kia's great in the snow and has new tires, and is also good for some of the crazy outdoor stuff I do. So I figure I'll keep it as a winter rat and outdoor sport vehicle. I may or may not change the timing belt and the exhaust system. I may very well do them myself because having a second car takes the pressure off getting it done by any particular time.

In any case, I really haven't any problems with CL in the past. This time around, it's been less useful, but only because of the idiot sellers.

As for Sandy, I pretty much limit my search to cars that are currently in service, and I tend to size up the seller as much as the car. Also, at least in New York, I'm pretty sure a flood-damaged car would have a salvage title, even if brand-new.

-Rich
 
Not really.

Especially with an aluminum head, a spark plug that's a little loose can strip the threads and pop out pretty fast. And that may only show up as a rough idle. Even a 4banger will run smoother than you might expect at 2500 RPM on three cylinders. Note that once the plug pops out, you can disable the opposite cylinder in the firing order as well. Most of these run waste spark ignition these days (where the opposite plugs are in parallel, and fire on both the power and exhaust strokes).
This one wasn't stripped, it was just the maintainer (me) hadn't torqued it up the last time I'd had it out. Put it in, tightened it, never had another problem. 1600 CC VW engine.

Ron Wanttaja
 
3. And by the way, I really don't give a rat's about the Kelly Blue Book value. Screw Kelly. When Kelly's buying the car, Kelly can decide what it's worth.


5. Sellers who only want to contacted by phone. I don't want to spend hours on the phone asking strangers detailed questions about cars. That's what email is for. But a lot of sellers disable the email reply, and others specify, "Don't even bother emailing me because I never check my email." Well, screw you, then. Obviously you don't want to sell your car that badly.

Well KBB is the main standard for valuing autos, so most people (and dealers) will use book value.

If you want to make up your own value you might have a issue, just as the guy who is asking a "absurd" price wasn't using book value.

I prefer to use the phome, it's faster to communicate, address miscommunications and all the scammers tend to not like the phone, so it helps weed out the Nigerians and whatnot. Besides I talk to strangers everyday in life, aint that big of a deal.
 
I generally only buy used cars that were owned by females or Seniors because they are less likely to be "shade tree" mechanics. DIYers can do more harm than good to an automobile if they don't know what they're doing. Most females I know have their cars maintained professionally, making them more appealing to me on the secondary market.

Yeah, but the seinor or woman owned cars tend to have those tiny dents from hitting stuff while "trying" to park, more likely have been driven past most oil changes by a few miles and probably have the cheapest tires available.
 
I've noticed that the corners and edges of many cars driven by seniors tend to become "softened" over time. Most older Mercury 4-doors seem to have fallen victim to this phenomena.
 
10. This last one is more of a head-scratching thing for me than an annoyance, but I'm seeing it a lot lately: describing a car as "female-owned" or "female-driven." Why on earth would I care about the gender of the previous owner? Of what possible importance is that to me?

It's gotten to the point that I've just started meandering through my day-to-day life carrying several grand in cash in my pocket, and stopping to look at cars with "For Sale" signs in their windows. Craigslist sellers have just become too annoying to bother with.

-Rich

It means the oil never gets checked or changed and has been driven for thousands of miles with the check engine light on with no one ever checking the code.

Why not go to a local used car lot that's been around for 20+ years? Will you get the lowest price possible? Probably not. When the car craps out on you next season will you get some help? Probably. Will you be able to trade/barter services? Probably. Yes I know the reputation of used car dealers lol, however there are some decent ones around. I usually buy from a lot that has a garage and make a deal with them that if the car has problems in the future I can work on it in their shop and get my parts at their cost. This typically works very well for me and also usually ends up with some extra work for me to do for them for $.
 
Well KBB is the main standard for valuing autos, so most people (and dealers) will use book value.

It is? By whom? The only people I know who use KBB are bankers to see what to lend, that's why KBB is high. Dealers all use Black Book as wholesale reference when buying and NADA's yellow book as a retail pricing reference to show buyers.
 
Most of the dealers I've talked to are using an on-line tracking program that shows actual sales in whatever-size region they choose. A friend's son who is the used car sales manager at a big store in Dallas showed me some of the capabilities. I was impressed that it eliminated much of the smoke screen on both sides of the trade.

It is? By whom? The only people I know who use KBB are bankers to see what to lend, that's why KBB is high. Dealers all use Black Book as wholesale reference when buying and NADA's yellow book as a retail pricing reference to show buyers.
 
It means the oil never gets checked or changed and has been driven for thousands of miles with the check engine light on with no one ever checking the code.

Why not go to a local used car lot that's been around for 20+ years? Will you get the lowest price possible? Probably not. When the car craps out on you next season will you get some help? Probably. Will you be able to trade/barter services? Probably. Yes I know the reputation of used car dealers lol, however there are some decent ones around. I usually buy from a lot that has a garage and make a deal with them that if the car has problems in the future I can work on it in their shop and get my parts at their cost. This typically works very well for me and also usually ends up with some extra work for me to do for them for $.

I actually know a used car guy that I trust. He's about 20 miles from here and is a stand-up guy.

Right now, though, there's a mint Buick I have my eye on -- but it happens to belong to my dad. He had to put shocks in it recently, and he's the sort of crotchety old fart who starts itching to buy a new car the moment he has to spend money on his current one.

I know his pattern, and I figure in a year at the most (and probably less), dad will scratch his itch. Then I'll buy the Buick for whatever he's offered in trade, and sell either the Kia or whatever other car I buy. In any case, for now, I'm basically looking for an interim vehicle.

I could, of course, just buy a new car. I get all sorts of loan offers, and I have owned new cars in the past. I just haven't found it to be financially advantageous when the payments, the sales taxes, and the full insurance requirements are considered. Full insurance even on something cheap like a Ford Focus would cost me about $87.00 / month. On a second used car that I own and don't need the comp and collision coverage on, it'll cost me about $17.00 / month.

The fact is that I'm not the sort who looks at a car as anything other than a way to get from one place to another, so spending twenty or thirty grand for new-car smell doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. Also, the weather and the gravel roads tend to take a heavy toll on new cars where I live.

-Rich
 
New cars never made sense to me, the best cars to buy if you want newish is the 2 year old low mileage trade ins coming off lease-type programs. Someone else paid off that "off the lot" depreciation hit and you often get a full-refreshed warranty with it. Your dad's car sounds like a good deal, do you really need something else before then?
 
Most of the dealers I've talked to are using an on-line tracking program that shows actual sales in whatever-size region they choose. A friend's son who is the used car sales manager at a big store in Dallas showed me some of the capabilities. I was impressed that it eliminated much of the smoke screen on both sides of the trade.

Very likely run by the Black Book guys or possibly by Manheim. Black Book guys used to be at every auction recording all the deals. Hard to buy a deal at the auctions anymore. All the "Buy here pay here" guys are paying top dollar for stuff knowing they'll sell and repo it 3 times keeping the down payment before it's sold for good.
 
It is? By whom? The only people I know who use KBB are bankers to see what to lend, that's why KBB is high. Dealers all use Black Book as wholesale reference when buying and NADA's yellow book as a retail pricing reference to show buyers.


oh...Sigh
 
I'm going to Devil's Advocate this for fun...

1. Sellers who omit crucial information about the car, such as the year or mileage. They'll wax eloquent about the stereo system, but don't tell you the year or the mileage.

Start talking to people these days about what they know about how their cars work, and this one won't surprise you anymore. I know someone who drove a car daily for six years who never checked, nor changed, the oil. He learned about oil changes and checking it when the engine seized.

2. Sellers whose asking prices are absurd. Yeah, I know there's some bickering that can be done, but be realistic.

I got over this peeve a long time ago. It's worth only what you're willing to pay. If you want it, call and make the offer and have zero interest in their EMOTIONAL response to it. They get mad, upset, "offended" whatever, screw them. It's a business transaction. They want X you have Y to pay. If they wanna get all drama queen about it, my usual reaction is to laugh at them and hang up.

3. And by the way, I really don't give a rat's about the Kelly Blue Book value. Screw Kelly. When Kelly's buying the car, Kelly can decide what it's worth.

See 2. Heh.

4. Sellers who don't mention where the car is located. The distance and difficulty of getting somewhere affect whether I'm going to bother looking at the car.

Maybe a bit whiny... Some folks don't have a place other than their house to park the thing and having a bunch of people wandering up unannounced isn't appreciated. You find out where it is once they know you're actually interested enough to consider the vehicle. Nowadays, sometimes people buy cars sight-unseen on eBay 2000 miles away and pay someone with a car hauler to drop it in their driveway for $400. I don't recommend it, but it's definitely done.

5. Sellers who only want to contacted by phone. I don't want to spend hours on the phone asking strangers detailed questions about cars. That's what email is for. But a lot of sellers disable the email reply, and others specify, "Don't even bother emailing me because I never check my email." Well, screw you, then. Obviously you don't want to sell your car that badly.

I have neighbors who don't have email. Seriously. They have a life.

6. Sellers who insist on being contacted only by text message. Double screw you. I hate texting to begin with, and I'm certainly not going to sit here asking you a dozen or so questions by text and trying to figure out your indecipherable shorthand responses.

Agreed. Screw text.

But...

Besides, why do you want perfect strangers to have your cell phone number, anyway? I sure as hell don't. You (or I) could be a spammer or scam artist.

Would you like my Google Voice number? It'll accept texts and I can dump it or you easily with it. Having digits doesn't mean you have their cell phone number these days.

7. Sellers who have no plates or insurance on the vehicles (presumably because they transferred them to their new cars), but don't understand that the inability to test drive the car means that they're going to get lower offers. "But Kelly says..." (See No. 3 above.)

We aren't required to carry insurance on vehicles stored on private property here, and we are supposed to REMOVE the plates if you purchase. Technically you're supposed to show up with your own temporary tags. Most folks don't, and I won't send them home with my plates to go do their next drive-by shooting...

(Not kidding, had a pastor friend make that exact mistake when he sold his beater Hyundai... It was used in a drive-by shooting two hours after he sold it with his plates on it... Luckily LE didn't decide to do a no-knock on his little suburban house and they thought it was funny he was a pastor, but he said they came in force and all had hands on weapons at the front door!)

You drive it home without temporary tags or insurance, that's your problem. I will have a signed Bill of Sale making sure it is, if someone is dumb enough to try to drag me into it.

8. Sellers who don't post sufficient and useful pictures, especially if they offer to text the pictures to buyers. Just post the damned pictures on the listing so I can look at them on a real screen! Is that so freaking hard to do?

See 1. They don't know how to work a computer either. Plenty of cars sold via the old newspaper classified ads before Craigslist killed that. No pictures then, either.

9. Sellers who post pictures of the car all covered in dirt and bird ****, and then say, "It looks good once you clean it up." Wash the $%^@@ car first and then take the pictures, you $%^@@ moron!

Dad found his (now our) 1991 Mazda Miata Limited Edition in British Racing Green sitting under a tarp at a garage sale in a rich neighborhood, completely covered in at least a year or two worth of pine needles from the tree it was parked under. You can wash the car, if you like it. He spent a month polishing away the bad care of the rich lady who said she needed to sell it before hubby would buy her a Mercedes.

10. This last one is more of a head-scratching thing for me than an annoyance, but I'm seeing it a lot lately: describing a car as "female-owned" or "female-driven." Why on earth would I care about the gender of the previous owner? Of what possible importance is that to me?

Not going there. Some dummy thinks ladies baby cars, I guess. Karen sure as hell doesn't. :)

It's gotten to the point that I've just started meandering through my day-to-day life carrying several grand in cash in my pocket, and stopping to look at cars with "For Sale" signs in their windows. Craigslist sellers have just become too annoying to bother with.

Not a bad way to go, really. Cash talks. Dad didn't have cash on him when he found the Miata, but he didn't waste any time dawdling between the house it was parked at, and the bank to get a cashier's check!

Need a 97' Suburban? I take cash. It looks good cleaned up (ROFL! Actually it does, and it needs a wash and vacuum right now!), and I can probably park it somewhere the birds will poop on it and send you the location via text message. Hehehe. $1M.

P.S. My pet peeve... $Price, OBO. Of course you're going to take the best offer, dummy. No, take the second best. Better yet, take the worst one. Duh.
 
Well KBB is the main standard for valuing autos, so most people (and dealers) will use book value..
I thought so too until last year when for the first time I was on a used car market looking for a very specific car, I invested significant amount of time to research prices and was looking for buying opportunity on Craigslist, Autotrader and cars.com. I was looking for months and knew everything about the car I was looking for. I quickly realized that KBB values for the car were worthless numbers, they were even a poor reference since cars were typically advertised at around 25-35% below their KBB (and sold for even less). I established that online NADA was giving me much more realistic numbers.
 
Yeah, I have seen cars advertised for about 10-times their true value. I always assumed it was nothing more than attention grabber or a method to end up on top when you search sorting by price.

I knew a guy who had a for sale sign on every one of his toys for exactly what he paid for them.

Once in a while, someone would buy one.

The full sized RV was the amazing one. Some guy wanted it and he'd driven and used it extensively and loaned it out to buddies and business partners for five years. It sold for cash one day for... exactly what he paid for it.

The only thing he didn't have marked for sale was the crane. A week after he put a sign on the crane, it sold for almost what he paid for it, and he'd used it for ten years.
 
New cars never made sense to me, the best cars to buy if you want newish is the 2 year old low mileage trade ins coming off lease-type programs. Someone else paid off that "off the lot" depreciation hit and you often get a full-refreshed warranty with it. Your dad's car sounds like a good deal, do you really need something else before then?

I don't absolutely need one. But it would be a major pain to be car-less out here in the boonies if the Kia were to go down in a spectacular way. I'd be rushed to either buy a replacement car, or else to put more money into the Kia than I might otherwise, just to have a ride. I'd rather look for a nice deal on a second car when I don't actually need one.

-Rich
 
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I thought so too until last year when for the first time I was on a used car market looking for a very specific car, I invested significant amount of time to research prices and was looking for buying opportunity on Craigslist, Autotrader and cars.com. I was looking for months and knew everything about the car I was looking for. I quickly realized that KBB values for the car were worthless numbers, they were even a poor reference since cars were typically advertised at around 25-35% below their KBB (and sold for even less). I established that online NADA was giving me much more realistic numbers.

My credit union won't cut a check for more than the NADA value on any car, new or used. They couldn't care less about KBB.

-Rich
 
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